Ceiling's the Limit for Papa BY JAMES S. POOLER Fr Frmw Staff Writer Like everything else, the lowly sundae has climbed higher and higher. For what has arrived on the Detroit scene, now but the 24-dip 24-dip 24-dip Smorgasbord Sundae at $4.50 a serving. This gooey confection, served on a three-tier three-tier three-tier lazy susan, comes from the genius of Leo Zukin, composer in ice cream. Zukin, who lies awake nights dreaming up variations of blops for 12-story 12-story 12-story leaning towers of ice cream, already is known for his Atomic Bomb (it explodes in a huge puff of whipped cream) and Pike's Peak (which has everything in it from a jelly roll to pretzels). o ZUKIN THINKS and his family, which sits in as a board of directors on his ice-cream ice-cream ice-cream compositions, concurs that with his Smorgasbord Sundae, "I have hit my peak." He has unless they cut a hole in the ceiling of his restaurant at 12520 Dexter. For the Smorgasbord towers up on lazy susans Papa Zukin himself built with everything on them to make teenagers teenagers go crazy with their own experiments in ice cream. On the top tier there are big bowls of whipped cream, banana sections and fruit salad. Then comes a whole gamut of flavors hot fudge, chocolate, cherry, pineapple, marshmallow, raspberry, butterscotch as well as chopped nuts and pretzels. Finally, Papa Zukin throws in 24 scoops of ice cream, all flavors; sundae and soda glasses, and three bottles of seltzer flavored with chocolate, cherry and lime. Then he stands back to watch the customer create until fudge-flavored fudge-flavored fudge-flavored whipped cream starts coming out of his ears and he falls happily to the floor. "IT IS MEANT to serve four," Papa Zukin explains, "but we have customers who long ago mastered the 12-dippers." 12-dippers." 12-dippers." Sol Stein, of 2700 Oakman Court, said this was all too true. "I had to take my son, Bob, home when he started turning turning the color of a lime soda on his first 12-dipper," 12-dipper," 12-dipper," Stein said. "He now paces himself better and can make it." If you think Papa Zukin goes to extremes with his sundaes, you don't know the extreme from which he began. In the depression, depression, in a little confectionery on Twelfth near Hazelwood, he served two-cent two-cent two-cent seltzers 3 cents with a dash of flavor and three scoops of assorted ice cream for a nickel. But that was before this fabulous age when a kid thinks nothing of slapping down a, buck for a sundae and Papa Zukin's genius with scoop and syrup could bust loose like whipped cream from a compressor. o SO NOW, LIKE the true artist, he paces the floor at night brooding over whether the chocolate . scoop should go on the third or fourth floor and how would it look best drenched with raspberry or maybe with potato chips stuck in it like wings? . The next day, his wife, Mary; his two sons, Walter and Norman, and their wives, Sylvia and Rae, stand around while Papa builds his newest fantasy. He can tell by their faces if he's got the touch or has whipped up an uninspired monument in ice cream. What's more, Papa Zukin spares no expense for glassware to set off his masterpieces. For his Statue Sundae pineapple ring, three scoops of ice cream, hot fudge, crushed cherries, pineapple, walnuts, whole maraschino cherries, sliced bananas, whipped cream he has a special dish. A statue base holding up a violet glass, it cost $6. And for his Atomic Bomb it takes four minutes to eat the cloud oft whipped cream off the top there is a pale green glass based in what looks like the tail end of a rocket ship. This dish cost $3.50. Only one thing puzzles Papa Zukin. He hasn't been able to create a sundae too big or too expensive for the customers. He doesn't know whether that's a tribute to his art or the modern teen-ager's teen-ager's teen-ager's appetite.