patricia Mclaughlin Pins with a point These brooches are secure in their opinions. Helen Williams Drutt English can't understand how a woman can buy real art for her walls and then go to Tiffany for jewelry that's merely decorative. A lifelong champion of modern crafts and proprietor since 1974 of the Helen Drutt Gallery in Philadelphia, Drutt English loves jewelry with complexity and depth, pieces that challenge you instead of just sitting there on your lapel looking pretty. Her own notable collection of contemporary jewelry has been exhibited in 10 museums. A couple of years ago she was delighted to see a piece in Time about the way Secretary of State Madeleine Albright wears brooches calculated to champion causes, comment on issues or telegraph her agenda. But she wasn't so crazy about the unexceptional costume jewelry Albright was doing it IL'tn" Ji tarth Ange by VZXVe'y BetiyKing, ' Ocean City, with: a red-blue-and-rhinestone top hat borrowed from Uncle Sam, a golden goat for the time a Serb general dissed her by naming a goat for her, a gilt snake for the times she was called a serpent in the Iraqi press, a bumblebee that she said reminded . - ' figure Mi No. '-- 145 by Bruce ll Metcalf, 1 1 Philadelphia. her of Muhammad Ali's motto, "Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee." Drutt English thought a personage of the secretary's stature deserved to wear original art. So she fired off invitations to some of the world's most distinguished craft jewelers to contribute works to an exhibition in the secretary's honor. "Brooching It Diplomatically: A Tribute to Madeleine K. Albright" 71 pins by 61 artists from 17 countries has, like the secretary herself, circled the globe: Philadelphia, New York, Honolulu, Finland, Estonia, Honolulu, Netherlands. It's now on view at Philadelphia International Airport in the connector between Terminals C and D through April 30. The show comments on the relations of femininity to power, of the United States to the rest of the world, of politics to the preservation of the earth, among other things. It also displays a range of solutions to the craft jeweler's problem of balancing the urge to ornament with the wish to communicate via manipulation of signs and symbols. Some of the brooches a graceful golden swash with spiral tips by Catherine Martin, a flat white marble flower by Margaret West are as decorative as anything in a Tiffany window. Others Betsy King's crowned angel with a diving swimmer and a couple of ivory elephants, or Robin Kranitzky and Kim Overstreet's profile of a woman with her elaborate updo inscribed with Albright's capsule bio and cut away to reveal a globe, a bee, floating figures and the U.S. Capitol inside her head keep you interested for a lot longer than a string of pearls would. Still others show why there'll always be a market for jewelry whose only ambition is to be beautiful for instance, Bussi Buhs' enigmatic epaulet of 45 little white polyester breasts, each crowned with an egg-yolk-colored areola and a ketchup-colored nipple. Proponents of serious craft still have to contend to some extent with a highbrow reflex assumption that what they do isn't quite art. So it may seem unfair that craft jewelers should be met, on the other hand, with potential customers who think their work isn't pretty enough. But it comes with the territory. Even women who would think it philistine to choose a painting to match the sofa Hit v; ' Profile ' 7i ' i of a Woman V- b"obin i --pSt. KranlUkyand A CSfr' Kim Overstreet, - Richmond, Va. are often more interested in how their jewelry makes them look than in what it might have to say for itself. It's fine for pins to make a point there's a long tradition of lapel pins making statements but when the discourse gets in the way of flattering the customer, no sale. Brooching It Diplomatically: a tribute to madeleine k. albright Through April 30, Terminal C D, Philadelphia International Airport, 8800 Essington Ave.