San Francisco Bulletin from San Francisco, California • 5

If A 'A THE BULLETIN: SAN RANCISCO MONDAY EVENING APRIL 29 1912 URY GOODS ETC DRY GOODS ETC DRY GOODS ETC DRY GOODS ETC DRY GOODS I DRY GOODS? ETC I STORE NEWS ROM SAMUELS pARIS LONDON VIENNA BERLIN SAN RANCISCO MONDAY EVENING APRIL 29 1912 AND STOCKTON DRY GOODS ETC NEW YORK Letter rom Our Paris Office for the It brings vividly to 1 in painting nature it should be to hi Sweaters 1 ruby mole Inlaid soon cx Mp Name Is is My Address Is Street and No Stale exquisite woman how materials that can be the Lingerie Section at of those other art exhibi flourish under all sorts of the the the two and exhibited during her upon and dc Hc in It a 4 1 for as (gold olive) grays taupe) A Many i women dislike the skirt and waist effect and yet do not fancy the three i piece suit for warm weather Such women will undoubtedly welcome the Although wider skirts are reign ing with a prospect of even more expansion the most fashionable pet ticoats are still the filmy ones of chif fon or lace Some of these are really so pretty that it is a pity they are only seen in glimpses of an inch or so ''The kimono sleeve still holds its own for the matinee and the robe de nult and bids fair to do so for some time to come although the various modifications of the type set in with out gathers are also popular Crepe de chine is a fad of the mo ment for underwear and in many of the trousseaux it has been used to the exclusion of other fabrics As it is soft and clinging and lends itself more readily' to different forms of draping than do linen cotton (and the dynamic force in a picture be shown as a dynamic sen strongest gale Wc Sweaters that are as of our Ready to Wear Every Mood Reflected in Suits and Coats Section silver By the way one of the new touches is to sew them on with strands of colored silk or instance on a dark blue serge suit the blue bone buttons are attached with scar let silk thread and there is a turn over collar of scarlet bengaline piped with blue satin Hand embroidery is as popular as ever and all the'' more costly tub frocks are heavily worked in colors that match the materials Even ma chine embroidery is often seen on frocks of beautiful design One variety made up of loose loop stitches which look like bunches of rench knots is a copy of antique Persian work and when various colors are introduced 1 Jie effect is excellent It is popularly known as agaric work and is said to launder perfectly or these an apparently unlimited variety of styles are being offered in lingerie ilace chiffon mousseline marquisette and all the soft silks and satins The Jeanne cuirass which comes in all the heavy laces as well as in the thinner varieties and which Speaking of important details it would be difficult to find one of greater importance than lace this sea son It is lace lace lace everywhere you turn fine and coarse black bis cuit and ecru but not an inch of col ored lace appears on any of the smart frocks See the Lace Section at Samuels pin stripe of blue pink or lavender Is being tried out This season for negli why It should not prove talnly its washable qua! yond question and its crushing much 16ss than other materials used If you are enjoying these pages and are interested in other ashion Reviews that we are issuing or have friends to whom you think they will appeal send us your name and their names and it will give us pleasure to mail you or them our literature There is always a patent leather belt with a gilt buckle over the coat and another novelty is to put one of those fanciful half belts of leather across the back White cotton voile with a narrow pin stripe of blue pink or lavender is being tried out This season for negli gees and there seems no good reason whv It should not prove popular Ger ties are be chances of some of the in to Be Queen of You may get through the coldest months of the year without a sweater but you comfortably get through the windiest months a pcr scvcrcnce about the gentlest San rancisco wind in getting under coat that makes discretion the better part of valor A wool sweater means comfort in the have Martinette chic as the rest apparel or wavs hl ham far luces and Pique is Mfr thinner silks which it has superseded It is preferred to these materials by persons to whom the extra cost is not an objection It cannot bo denied however that the laundering of crepe de chine of pale blue pink lavender and other pastc shades in which some of the garments are made up is not as a rule attended with results that are altogether satisfactory The only safety lies in dry cleaning and as this is expensive women who dis like wearing the sort of thing acces sible to the multitude can adopt this particular fashion without fear of its becoming common? The really ever chooses washed! See Samuels Certainly it applies to groups which arc known Cubists and the uturists By way of distinction Parisians call the artists of the Independent Salon the Cubists and those newer and even more terri ble daubists of Janua'ry the uturists The name originated by a manifesto issued by the uturists in in most pretentious language they an nounced their utter disregard for any pitcures hitherto painted and a belief in those they offered in their exhibi tion The Cubists took their name naturally from the form of daubs of paint affixed to the canvases which resembled small and large cubes TJiese cubes allowed a wonderful lati tude to the imagination the magni tude of which has been quite sur passed by the incomprchcnsibe effort of the uturists fnrtoisn Bhell with silver Is reminiscent of the an cient back comb worn by small girls In the latter part of the last century The great Horse Show (Concours Hippique) is over and it left a train of the ills that flesh is heir to for the Grand Palais where it was hcl 1 was as cold as Labrador On the other hand this excessive cold brought' out the finest furs owned in Paris and already some had been remodelled for the coming sea 1 son! one of the advantages of fine they' can be done over and they are therefore a permanent investment) But to come back to the Concours Hippique you know That this great Paris Horse Show is generally a sig nal of Spring and society people look forward to it as an opportunity to display their new and novel Spring toilets but this year the excessive cold has kept the greater part of the really smart mondaincs on the Riviera So the Horse Show did not have the stimulating effect on Dress that it usually has Yet there were many beautiful things worn and some features emphasized or instance lace in every conceivable genre was used in every conceivable place and the combination of fur and lacc got a new impetus The great lace col lars that run down the back were worn by nearly every one and black satin hats were profusely garnished with lace It took the nature of wings that reminded one of the arms of the windmills on Montmarte These lace wings are extraordinarily dainty and becoming to every one Some stood straight out others straight up and others twisted them selves into every possible coquettish attitude The Salon of the Beaux Arts was a distinctly smart function and dis tinctly American Says one notable critic: "American exhibitors are numer ous and nothing is more gratifying than the extremely high merit of their works which show a great im provement over those of last season or the last year or two American art has been rather marking time in Paris but there is plenty of evidence at this Salon that its exponents have suddenly taken a great step forward and indeed a large number of those pictures which show special original ity and freshness in handling and grouping without mere eccentricity turn out on examination to be the work of Americans mention must be made of Myron Barlow's three delicately exe cuted pictures 'The and 'A Girl Reading' which are as good as anything in the exhi bition also of riesek's paint ings one ot them a nude which brlliancy of handling are really tonishing pieces of work Harrison has not parted from his well known style shows four 'Bathers is of unusual delicacy while Eugene Ullman continues to impart striking atmosphere and fresh ness to his pictures Upton has two remark able portraits of the wives of English statesmen Airs Balfour Mrs Alfred Lyttelton Brown shows three of curiously colored outdoor scenes and Grace Ravlin two good paintings of Oriental life Queen reviewed Englan than if you depend on frocks instead This is especially true if you buy blouses from us for the reason that our blouses are so modestly priced Women who were here at our Spe cial Sale last week were profuse in their praises of the quality style and materials at such low figures While that particular sale is over there is always in stock an enormous selection of unusual things And that reminds us do you know that we have real hand made rench blouses that are daintily tucked and gar nished with hemstitched motifs at the sensible price of $495? These blouses are identical with those car ried by a certain New York firm as a staple the year round at $15: And it is our Intention to be always able to give to the refined woman the dainty hand made things she likes so well at the prices she likes to pay for them See the Samuels of widow Rouge improves the appearance if used carefully and moderately Many however think that a great deal is necessary and thereby overdo and really make themselves look much older because of their made up ap pearance Sec' the Cosmetic Section at Samuels And the funny thing about it is that the newest hat shown is called a This hat has its crown smartly pointed upward with a dashing bow of beautiful ribbon and squeezed in in four places are nosegays of real spring flowers a white Milan and just the hat for the May Day picnics that girls loye so well Then a big black leghorn fiat just like your mother wore when she was a girl Its facing is an adorable blue held in place by nifty little maline ruffles Its brim" tilts down over the face and down over 'the back of the neck and right on the nape of the neck is a seducingly lovely bunch of pink roses On the front of its crown is another bunch of these fat half opened roses They are made of a silk jersey material that gives them the texture of real blossoms just such roses that make the world say "No one can make fabric flowers as the rench make This big black leghorn with its blue ribbon and its pink roses is a true Madame Pompadour beauty and it is only $12 Ibis brings us to the fact that the Samuels store specializes on hats at sensible prices that are designed from rench models and as beautifully finished as imported chapeaux And if $12 is more than you want to pay you can have an equally distinctive hat at the modest little price of $8 Quite naturally it will not be so elaborate as the more expensive hats but it will be as daintily designed and as charmingly made as any hat at any price In short the Samuels store serves you equally well whether you buy a hat at $8 or at $80 for they regard millinery as an Art and not as a Commodity Come and visit the Samuels Millinery Section for it is a de lightful place to rest and this invitation does not imply obligation to buy to a delicate poach color which Queen Victoria wore when she opened it in 1851 There is also the toilette characteristically Victorian that was worn at the meeting with Napoleon 111 and the Empress Eugenic in 1855 One is reminded that Queen Victoria reviewed her troops on horseback by the military uniforms and headgear shown and it is explained they were worn at times when the troops that left Crimean Wa is dresses hood with but one exception the lit tle black bonnet with its single white feather that her Majesty wore at her diamond jubilee mind the Widow of Windsor' and all she conveyed to her people this the never ending life of is shown when the coro nation robes of King Edward and Queen Alexandra together with those of King George and Queen Mary are found but it may safely be said that Londoners will take more personal interest in the little black bonnet with its single white As many of these garments were Imade by the past gcneration of de signers in Paris it is only natural that the present generation will hope to profit by them in their efforts at a revival of Victorian motifs as taffetas gives them such an opportunity must close with words from the two Paul and Lucile The former says: is beautiful in a dress is not its color or its worth or even its material it is its character To dress a woman does not mean to cover her with orna ments but to emphasize her beauty Good frocking consists in the man ner in which it is And Lucile says: is an ar tistic atmosphere in the rench cap ital one does not breathe anywhere else in tli7 world and it is in vain that one claims that anyone can make dresses as the I'enich do Perhaps this is because the rench are the most truly Greek of all modern peo ples They have retained all the artistic traditions of centuries One of the chief innovations of the season is that large muffs will be carried in the hands for the evenings and long ccharpcs will drape the shoulders mades wifi be Oriental in line that is to say they will have long straight fronts and the feet will Be prettily draped with flowing folds like those we are so used to in the costumes of the Orientals paillette has been done death and everyone will be pleased to hear that it will lose its undeserved popularity as least for a while In its place will reign the pearl embroid ered evening dress so much more suitable to womanly beauty than pail lettes To me the pearl embodies al the mystery and charm of the soul It is mysterious and elusive and for its sake men lose and risk their lives every day Its white ness and its luster arc the ornament par There! You have the new note for the coming season! Exquisite in Coloring and Design Are These Blouses the typical lingerie dress al ise plain materials as It com irr ill uh a it hand emnromery a material that Is to be verv and Is used considerably for general wear coatuineH and trimmings The rench dressmakers are partic ularly fond of pique so we shall see much of it tn the imported models It comes in all width stripes and also figures but the fine stripes are the best Many of the street gowns of the richest satins or satin crepes have touches of white pique It is extreme ly pretty igured and embroidered swiss Is being largely used for negligees to bo worn in hot weather Sometimes this has a trimming ot wide Nottingham lace and insertion ana me effect very good or sheer beauty and daintiness would be hard to find an equal to negligee of Ano swiss delicately hand embroidered By the way shadow lace and the flat pump bow are characteristic of the new nightgowns A blouse which comeis in lingerie and all the durable laces as well as in silk and marquisette is frequently cut on the surplice lines and the pep lum consists either of a fitted skirt stitched on at the waist line or of some variety of loose drapery which starts at the same point On some of the more elaborate models the nets of the drapery are weighted down with gold or silver tassels The short er peplums are frequently finished with a full rosette of pompadour rib bon and sometimes ribbon is arranged to show a sash effect at the back or on the left side Dutch necks are still used on many of the prettiest lingerie blouses but the stock collar is rapidly gaining favor among the women who pride themselves on the correctness of their tailored clothes and is likely to take first place at least during the early spring or warmer days nothing is more charming than the innumerable varieties of sailor and round collars How attractive the linens? are! And the newest linens ahow a loose pecu 1 ra I weave' bg soft yet close will be used ror ine suits and In the finer linens they are soft looking In mentioning linens never make up linen that has not been aside from the question of shr nking the glaced surface on all now linen is very bad Tills can always be avoided by soaking and pressing (eliminating afarch' use only when necessary and thpn verv little) for all linen or cot ton materials must be dull finished and never show that high gloss The success of our Ready to Wear Apparel has been built on the basis of distinctive refined garments that have courage yet arc not blatant that are of the best materials obtainable at the price offered In no section does our aim stand out more emphatically than in our Suits and Coats And it is not shown in a mere handful of new models but ip dozens and dozens! And it is not only in tailored frocks and coats but in the great variety of cloaks dinner and dancing gowns lingerie frocks and even tub dresses all show unusual but charming con ceits that express elegance and individuality Moreover all of this apparel is made in the Samuels mannet which insures the best quality of materials and workmanship There is no longer any exclusiveness about an imported gar ment because manufacturers and many individual firms buy Paris models but there are as many ways of copying Paris models as there are firms obtaining them We copy them in the Samuels manner in exact duplicate in facsimile not only as to de sign but as to materials used By copying them in this country we save the customs charges and we give you the benefit of this saving See this group of tailored dresses at $2950 Every one speaks Paris elegance and smartness There is an infinite choice of style and color Scarcely two have points in common They arc beauti fully tailored by skilled American workmen under hygienic condi tions We do not doubt but what we could get a third more for these suits if we asked it but we prefer to sell to many refined women who cannot see their way clear to expend large sums but who ap preciate our service so thoroughly that they come to us regularly year after year We have tailored suits less expensive than 82950 and we have those that run into nearly three figures but so far as wc know they cannot be duplicated at the prices we are asking These great price concessions have grown out of the fact that wc have sent our buyer twice to the market this year and our New York office buys or has made for us something new every week This applies not only to tailored frocks but to our every depart ment of Ready to Wear Apparel It Is not necessary to dwell the miles of ruching plaiting puffing that uni olls before the on looker as the new gowns go by We are to be covered with this kind of garniture all season Taffeta shot and plain is in high favor Striped silk suiting and thin cheviot and summer ratine are among the smartest models in plain coat suits and khaki colored has also come back again its best trimming being in black There is no end of buttons They are of crystal of paste of strass of bone or smoked pearl and of filigree six canvases arc of the high level of excellence which has gained her a place among the more appreciated foreign painters in Paris other Americans repre sented by works of unusual merit arc George Obertuffcr Abram Poole Mrs Lee Robins and Julius Stew art The pictures by the last named arc characterized by special We are under the impression that Elizabeth Nourse is a California woman and at any rate 'her work is well known in California Now do you know about Paris has grown so Puritan that the censor went ly with a with ering hand and while some arc laugh ing others are prophesying Briefly stated it is in this wise: The Pre fect of Police Monsieur Lepine has caused a great sensation by taking the unusual step of refusing to allow the exhibition of three statuary groups by distinguished sctipltors on the ground that their artistic realism has been carried beyond the extreme limit' The works in question were Dam by Arnold Rcichberg present ing Paola and rancesco in the In ferno clasped in each arms by Duthell and crease and another group of a man and woman embracing by Zoiiz Briano an Argentinian Some indignation has been pressed among the colleagues of the artists and there is' talk of a demonstration Others see in this step the dawn of a new feeling in ronce with regard to the nude in statuary and the act of tlie authori ties finds many supporters among those who think that artists have had rather too much freedom in subject matter in late years But whatever may be said of the Salon of the Beaux Arts which real ly offers 'an opfiortunty to artists to be might be said equal propriety tions that names Nine Declarations When the uturists opened their salon at Bernheim et Cic at the be ginning of ebruary they issued a statement and made nine declarations The force of the statement can be understood by considering the nine declarations which were: That it is necessary to discourage all forms of imitation and to glorify all forms of originality That it is necessary to revolt aganst the expression of and which' arc expressions too clastic to mean anything and which have destroyed the works of Rembrandt Goya and Rodin Art critics arc useless That subjects which have made pic tures in the past must be swept away to make room for others which ex press this turbulent age of steel pride and the fever of speed That a painter must consider rts a title of honor being called a That it is necessary for a picture to be completed by the one' who looks at it That should satton That shown as virginal and sincere That the movement of light de stroys the shape of bodies In addition to these nine declara tions were published a scries of errors against which the Society of uturists intended to fight The greatest of these errors was the exhibition of nude figures by modern artists There is possibly some sense as regards the error but the language used against it does not bear translation says a notable artist need not fear for the pictures this year at Beaux Arts Salon fall into two main divisions Portraiture which for the most part is extreme ly well done ami landscapes A re markable change this time is the com parative absence of The grows be tween rance and Great Britain This week at Nice an imposing monument to Queen Victoria wes dedicated and at Cannes a statue of King Edward has been unveiled Now a group of artists and design ers have gone over to London to see the costume exhibit recently opened at the London Museum A letter re cently received by us says: ex hibition of costumes worn by Queen Victoria and her court at the different functions are now of historic inter est These costumes begin with the handsome gowns worn by the Duch ess of Kent the mother among them being an especially elab orate one of lilac silk brocaded with white bouquets of flowers Then fol lows a little white dress that will be sure to interest all the women of Lon don It is the first state gown or the virgin Queen and seems to boar with it all the love and veneration her peo ple felt for her when as almost a child she was called upon to assume the cares of a queen rom then on wards one is shown Queen Victoria's gowns that she wore at the corona tion which seems a familiar object owing to the widely known picture of the conoration painting by Haytcr Another robe of intimate interest is the demure black silk frock 'with its white lace fichu fastened by a cameo brooch that the girl Queen wore 'at her first council It is followed by the wedding dress of ivory white satin that looks as fresh and pure as the day on which it was worn There is another white silk dress shown with the wedding gown that the catalogue explains was worn on the night of the ceremony at the slate reception in Buckingham Palace great London reception is re called by the pink gown now faded Nothing Has Been Omitted That Is New in Line and Treatment in abric or in Color and Which Merits Inclusion in a Repre sentative Array of Paris Styles What Hats Always Say to You In the Spring Time This is not a Blouse Sale Mere Blouse Section Iy to Remind You of Our Enlarged Blouse Section on the Third loor The strl tailored short waist is always modish for morning and early The most entrancing color combi "afternoon wear with the severer mod nations ever wrought into a blouse els of coats and skirts It is not alto are to beAeen in our Blouse collec gether suitable for combination with tion and laces and other trimmings or dressy serge models are so cunningly so ingeniously em ployed in the designs that one won ders how such a profusion of original Ideas should come within the span of a few short weeks Yet here they are and we are glad that we enlarged the space allotted to follows the lines of the figure some Blouses for it would be unfortunate what closely is low necked and to crowd such an unusual showing of sleeveless and therefore well adapted this practical economical form of worn over chiffon blouses that Ready to Wear apparel are tonea to maten me sKirt You know without our telling you that by the use of a number of blouses judiciously Chosen you are enabled to dress with less expense I peplum blouse The cutaway line is strongly appar ent everywhere and it argues that the slim figure must be held to if one would be in fashion There is a slight dip or curve at the waistline at the sides of jackets and bodices that is more pronounced than in the early spring models and this taken in con nection with the hip drapery the flat velvet bows and Strass buttons down the front the fichu of lingerie or chif fon and the long gathered sleeves makes one believe that the basque and the bouffant overskirt will be upon us Popular Colors Pasteque (heart of watermelon) ecarlate (of the reds) romarin (corn flower blue) periwinkle (blue) mar tinet (blue) digitale (deep rich blue) yucca (reseda green shades( chardon (amethyst family (dove the two as the We Concentrate Our Energies on Reproducing at Sensible Prices the Creations of the Most Noted oreign Designers and It Is No Mere Turning of a Phrase to Say That Our Great Assemblage of Dresses and Coats Is a'Tribute to the Genius of Paris and to the Economy of Samuels Prices Why not make for yourself a belt buckle of Irish lace? Any oval or ob long ahapo may be used for a foun dation or a shape can be cut from heavy cardboard with slides ewed on the under side when finished Ihe foundation Is covered first with a layer of cotton wadding: then with black or white silk according to the outside A irood looklng buckle for a black and white dress Is of the black lace made up over White satin iiiuhb How attractive the linens are! 1 liar weave that also give sary rough effect T'lls unrr vr cose wm i Draped negligee of crepe de chino and chiffon trimmed kith bands of embroidery and silken ball fringe The model has a foundation of the crepe de chine with a drapery of chif fon crossing on the bodice in front and continuing over the shoulders to hamg from there in a' straight draper outlined down the sides and about the square train with ball fringe The chiffon sleeves cut in one piece with the back drapery hang in deep point ing ends weighted with silk tassels The foundation of the crepe de chine is belted at a normal waist line and slit part way up the sides The model in medium size requires 3 yards of crepe de chine 44 inches: wide 2 yards oi chiffon 44 inches wide 2 yards of trimming bands 4 yards of ball fringe 2 tassels BE2BX.