Detroit Free Press from Detroit, Michigan • Page 22

45TR0IT FREE PRESSMONDAY, MARCH 20, 1995 Sleek coflections go from runway to closet 'I A TJ: omen don't want to get -X Designer Kari Lagerfeld goes for a 1950s look in a preview of fashions for the Academy Awards. A pastel shirtwaist dress gets -T a modern look with satin tap shorts. dressed up in costumes or be depersonalized by the clothes they wear.yy Designer Alberta Ferretti p1 (T 'fif ii it 'I wife' iT MILAN, from Page 1C In Ferretti's collection for fall, she includes glen plaid blazers expertly tailored with 13 waist-caressing seams and with just enough stretch to make them comfortable. Ski-style suits in heavy fabrics with lots of stretch give the body a slim silhouette. Dresses have princess lines one of the most flattering shapes in fashion.

For a designer such as Ferretti, putting elegant simplicity on the runway is not new. "My woman has always been able to relate to the clothes I show on the runway," Ferretti says. But this season, runway realism happens to be part of a bigger trend. Flamboyant designer Gianni Versace showed great restraint and sent out a collection filled with tailored shifts and matching coats. And Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, in their main collection, focused on tailored suits rather than the boudoir styles of seasons past.

Even New York-based designer and former Detroiter Anna Sui has gone classic. She has a new collection that will be produced in Italy by the Gilmar Group, which produces Iceberg and Cento Cento. Sui has been consulting on Cento Cento for about a year. Sui by Anna Sui includes neat dresses in dignified lengths, black double-breasted blazers with funky details so subtle they could go to some of the most conservative offices. There are fine wool crepes and lush boucles and chenilles.

"It's very much the same spirit as my main collection," says Sui, who was in Milan for the launch of the new line. "This is a way to bring my philosophy to a broader scope of women, women who are a bit more subtle about their fashion statement than are my regular customers," Sui says. Sui by Anna Sui is for stores for whom the main collection is too downtown, New York, quirky. Everywhere realism is hitting the runways and showrooms. American Lawrence Steele, formerly of Chicago and design houses Moschino and Prada, has the buzz of the fashion trades behind his signature collection now in its third season.

The collection includes tailored jackets, comfortable parkas, shapely dresses and knee-length skirts. And while prices for a nylon ski jacket can run as high as about $850, a black boucle 2,1 NEW YORK TIMES If" vi It's a wrap: Glamour will be the Oscar star sheath can be had for about $300. Expensive, but not bad when one considers this is a designer dress that's not full of flash-in-the-pan styling. What has happened? "Women don't want to get dressed up in costumes or be depersonalized by the clothes they wear," Ferretti suggests. She is dressed in a simple navy, pin-striped coat dress and feminine, but comfortable-looking, pumps.

"I think it's very important that a woman who walks into a room is noticed because of her personality, not because of her dress," Ferretti says. "That should never overpower the woman wearing it." It seems appropriate, then, that Giorgio Armani managed to send a collection of about 400 looks, on about 70 models, down a seemingly endless catwalk in a converted factory and still make the happening somehow seem understated. His signature collection, heavy on pantsuits and sophisticated, beaded evening wear, drove home the message that the runway is no place for outrageous experimentation. The catwalk, Armani seemed to say, is a place for beautiful clothes clothes to be worn and worn comfortably. More structured than in past seasons, his jackets not only feature defined shoulders and shaped waists, but also unexpected details such as scalloped lapels and tie closures that resemble scarves knotted jauntily at the neck.

To be sure, this collection is pure, expected Armani style: subtle colors, elegant shapes, delicate fabrics. Still, Armani ranks among the top-selling designers in the world. Women appreciate, buy and wear this subtle clothing. That's the reality. It only seems logical and wise that subtle and wearable clothing should start to dominate more than just a few runways.

MARIA VALENTINOSpecial to the Free Press A sleek, satiny jacket paired with slimming pants from Alberta Ferretti. by Barbara De Witt Los Angeles Daily News LOS ANGELES Look ahead to fashions for the Academy Awards and you'll find yourself looking back. Designs unveiled for the Oscar telecast next Monday night showed a return to the Hollywood glamour of the '40s and '50s. A slinky white-beaded sheath with a floor-sweeping marabou feather coat led the fashion parade at the annual sneak peek of fashions to be worn by nominees and award presenters. Oscar fashion director Fred Hayman put together the preview shown in the lobby of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences in Beverly Hills, Calif.

featuring gowns by Vera Wang, Karl Lagerfeld, Krizia, Badgley Mischka, Isaac Mizrahi, Pamela Dennis and other international In an attempt to bring color and formality back to the: Oscars, Hayman focused on a pal--ette ranging from red to glittery gold. Among the other standouts were Anna Sui's bronze '40s siren-dress worn with a bolero and gold stiletto sandals, Vera Wang's green ballerina gown with umpteen layers of tulle, and Marc Bouwer's youthful salmon-hued sequined dress with sheer netting and white patent boots. Helping to set the tone were, hairstyles and makeup by Jose Eber, authentic jewels by Harry Winston and tiny jeweled handbags by Judith Leiber. iz Hayman also showed the trend in formal menswear, which included several Giorgio Armani tuxedos-featuring Nehru jackets, which he calls "tab collars" this time aroundLs i'i' 'IV i LMi f.i I i I II' i ASK DR. FASHION if a Taupe would also look nice with any of spring's delicate pastels, such as pale pink, yellow or icy blue.

The look the doctor would avoid is having a heavy color on top navy or black and those light taupe shoes on the bottom. Although some folks have been trying to encourage women to wear Ught shoes with dark panty hose and dark skirts, the doctor finds this look extremely unpleasant on the eyes. Or for those who aren't very good at subtlety ugly. Have a question about looking good? Write the Free Press' own Dr. Fashion, Box 828, Detroit 48231.

Questions cannot be answered Vera Wang goes back to the '56s for a mint green tulle skirt and a more satin corset, unveiled during an Oscar fashions DEAR DR. FASHION: Help! Being partially color blind, I have trouble putting together colors that I think look good together. I received medium-taupe color pumps for Christmas and have no idea what colors they can be worn with other than a taupe outfit. S.G., Dearborn DEAR S.G.: Taupe is one of those neutral colors that works with just about everything. One of the doctor's favorite looks is a mix of various tones of white: ivory, beige, pure white and taupe.

The doctor actually favors this mixing and matching over an all-white ensemble which can sometimes be a bit jarring. 7 preview. MARIA VALENTINOSpecial to the Free Press NEW YORK TIMES Gjanf ranco Ferre frames a princess-styled dress with a parka-styled coat. r. CHESAPEAKE Bay Rutrlov.rl OUICK CASH anv Detroit flats AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA or houses.

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