Detroit Free Press from Detroit, Michigan • Page 24

jr-'m- DETROIT FREE PRESSFRIDAY. FEB. 72, 1980 103 Chopped right, the pits can be sweet cncyclcfccdia wines with every kind of non-vintage, reasonable bottle plus the immutable lure of such settings for hand-holding and whispering. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.

11:30 a p.m. and 5 p.m.-1 a.m. 11:30 a.m.-1 a m. Wed. and noon-1 a.m.

4-10 p.m. Sun. Credit cards: MC. Inexpensive. HIMALAYA, 841 Ouelette Windsor.

519-258-2804. If the chef's signature is his cuisine, then you can understand why it takes so long to get dinner cooked here by Bhawanishanker Mohanlal Oza. His Indian food is delicious, and his lamb or shrimp curries will make you understand why circus fire-eaters do what they do. Authentic, a little eerie, too. Hours: 5-11 p.m.

5-9 p.m. Sun. Credit cards: MC, DC. Reasonable. WHETHER LITTLE George Washington actually chopped or not, cherries have become as much a part of Americana as Chevrolets, even though the small, smooth, long-stemmed, round-stoned fruit originated in Asia Minor.

The fruit was named for Cerasus, a Turkish town located on the Black Sea. By 1629, cherries were being widely cultivated in Massachusetts. By 1847 they had migrated to the West Coast, when pioneer horticulturist Henderson Luelling took some cherries with him in a covered-wagon load of fruit to be planted in Oregon. Washington, D.C., is bedecked with cherry trees because Yukio Ozaki, governor of Tokyo, presented 3,000 of them to the American people in 1912 as a gesture of goodwill. And everybody knows Traverse City is the cherry capital of the world.

Americans, perhaps partly out of a percent of the sour ones are canned or frozen. Americans in general, and the residents of Traverse City in particular, do not have exclusive rights to cherries, however. The fruit long has been one of Europe's favorites. They are especially favored in England, and have been praised by no less than Robert Herrick, the 17th-century poet. Herrick's verse has become a popular folk song in England: "Cherry ripe, cherry ripe, ripe, I cry Full and fair ones; come and buy If so be, you ask me where They do grow, I answer, there Where my Julia's lips do smile There's the land, or cherry-isle." Incidentally, there's no truth to the rumor Herrick's poem has been set to music by a British rock band called the Pits.

sense of patriotism, consume more than 140,000 tons of cherries yearly, but they usually don't pick them off trees. More than half of the sweet cherries and 90 vegetables and herbs fresh from chef Yvonne Gill Davis' own garden, famous desserts and entrees like rack of veal and pork loin with plum sauce that well may be your best meal this year. An airy, elegantly casual courtyard setting. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m., p.m. Credit cards: MC.

Very expensive. 220 MERRILL STREET, 220 Merrill Birmingham. 645-2150. Birmingham's newest is divided in halves: An ornate large bar (with mauve ceilings) and a smart country-inn dining room. Menu's also in halves: Well-prepared fresh seafood opposite some lively German-American specialties like kassler ripchen, wiener schnitzel and sauerbraten.

Gooey desserts. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. 3-9 p.m. Sun. Major credit cards.

Reasonable to Expensive. VICTORIA STATION, 28565 Northwestern Southfield. 357-4424. Also at 1475 W. Big Beaver Troy.

643-7260. This Is the place that looks like some new train cars crashed into each other. The railway motif pervades a roomy cluster of dining areas where It's mostly beef on the timetable. More jammed thdn the Penn Central ever was. Hours: 11 a.m.

p.m., p.m. (till 10:30 p.m. 11:30 p.m. 4-10 p.m. Sun.

Credit cards: MC, V. Reasonable. THE VINEYARDS, 29230 Franklin Southfield. 357-3430. The doyenne of the Southfield restaurant set has remodeled and Is no more dungeon-like as before.

Prettier now, but with spotty service and an erratic menu that is at its best with quail or shrimp (or both), and anything they put their crabmeat dressing into. They're trying harder, though. Hours: 5-11 p.m. Major credit cards. Very expensive.

YEES PALACE, 3720 Rochester Troy. 689-7744. A well-kept secret, but it's the genuine article all the Chinese truck-drivers eat here. Tantalizing are the abalone with black mushrooms, squid with oyster sauce, steamed pickerel seasoned with black bean and garlic paste and mustard-pickle soup. No alcohol, but try the chicken broth with fish stomach that is pretty diverting.

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. (till midnight noon-10 p.m.. Sun. Credit cards: MC, DC, AE, CB. Reasonable.

Northville. Elizabeth fashions gems of coulibiac of lamb, veal medallions In champagne sauce, duck in bananas anc' pecans, and so many other wonders including desserts to die for. A find, in Northville or anyplace, it is one of the region's all-stars. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. p.m., No alcohol.

No credit cards. Reservations. Reasonable to Expensive. EXCALIBUR, 28875 Franklin! Southfield. 358-3355.

An upwardly mobile bistro on the FBS Strip that's Franklin, Bloomfield, Southfield whose kitchen goes in fits and starts. Trim, turtle-necked waitresses wearing deeply slit skirts in a showy place with an upbeat aura, peopled by glossy bodies at full cruising speed. Hours: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Credit cards: MC, AE. Reasonable-to-expensive.

GOLDEN MUSHROOM, 18100 W. Ten Mile, Southfield. 559-4230. Interesting menu: curried shrimp, Chateaubriand, veal Oscar. Effulgent salad bar.

Crowded, noisy. Southfield loves it. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. (till midnight 5:30 p.m.-midnight Sat. Credit cards: MC, AE, DC.

Expensive. THE GRATE STEAK, 2601 Rochester Rochester. 852-8330. One of Win Schuler's enterprises, contemporary and fresh as paint, with more salad bars, cheese spreads and meatballs than you'll ever finish, a ballyhooed steak that's only fair, and gloppy desserts. Staff's helpful, courteous and kind.

Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (till midnight 2-9 p.m. Sun. Credit cards: AE, MC. Reasonable.

THE GREAT DANE, 31646 Northwestern Farmington Hills. 851-0555. A voluminous menu 38 entrees, 21 appetizers, 14 after-theater dishes, six desserts, etc. that often reaches titillating heights, rising above its overdecorated basement rec room setting. Hours: 11 a.m.

-2 a.m. Credit cards: DC, AE, MC, V. Expensive. THE GREAT WALL, 35135 Grand River, Farmington Hills. 476-9181.

A modest Chinese restaurant serves no alcohol, only fine, legitimate Cantonese cooking for very moderate sums. The menu is lengthy, and choices are best left up to the omnipresent owner, Henry Lum. Happily, there are family dinners at prices like $12.50 for two or $36.90 for six. Outstanding is the China Water Soong, hunks of lobsters, scallops, shrimp and pork in black bean sauce and what Lum calls "a suave egg sauce." Wonderful. Hours: 11 a.m.

-10 p.m. 11 a.m.-midnight noon-10 p.m. Sun. Major credit cards. Reasonable.

ONE MAIDEN LANE, 1 Maiden Lane, Windsor. (519) 254-6459. For breakfast, lunch or light supper, this cozy eatery housed in an old Victorian manse is close enough to the tunnel exit to be handy, and good enough to go foreign for. Nothing out of the ordinary, just satisfying sandwiches, soups and desserts and an atmosphere that makes you look around for old maiden aunts. Hours: 8 a.m.

-10 p.m. Major credit cards. Inexpensive. YE OLDE STEAK HOUSE, 46 Chatham St. West, Windsor.

519-256-0222. A jug of wine, a mammoth New York steak and thou Reside me in Windsor. That momentous slab of beef's a 16-ounce strip, and it cures all hungers. Also very nice lamb chops and goodly French apple pie, amid wooden beams, stucco walls and old oil paintings. Ask for a table on the bar side; It's cozier.

Hours: noon-midnight Credit cards: MC, AE, DC, Chargex. Reasonable. Hours: 6 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Credit cards: MC. Reasonable.

JACQUES, 30100 Telegraph, Bingham Farms. 642-1373. One of these days Jacques is going to get its estimable kitchen in synchronization with its earnest service so that both are good on all the same nights. Meanwhile, it still is the loveliest restaurant around, a place of pure romance with rosy lights, mirrored walls above plush booths of beige ard black brocade. Of the new menu, the best dishes are the most simple: Noisette of lamb, shrimp-chicken creole, stuffed chicken breast, filet mignon and nightly surprises.

Dessert omelet is A-Number 1. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. p.m. Sat. Major credit cards.

Very expensive. MACHUS RED FOX, 6676 Telegraph, Birmingham. 626-4200. Flagship of the famous Michigan chain, the Red Fox has an outstanding kitchen with especially good beef and a house salad that alone is worth a trip. The desserts, like "lemon krunch," ARE a trip.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. 4-10 p.m. Sun. Credit cards: MC, AE, DC, Machus house accounts. Expensive.

THE MEATING PLACE, 4105 Orchard Lake Orchard Lake. 851-0060. A very imaginative chef, versed In nouvelle cuisine and recipes from the French masters, using bone marrow, beurre blanc and souce soubise, presumes to some 10-15 different specials per night (rack of veal, salmon tournedos, Bocuse's pheasant consumme en croute). Hot stuff: Oysters Banchet, perfect vegetables, Grand Marnier souffle. Airy blond wood-and-plants decor by Alexis Lahti.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-11 p.m. (till midnight 5 p.m.- midnight 3-10 p.m. Sun. Credit cards: ME, AE.

Expensive. THE MIDTOWN CAFE, 139 S. Woodward, Birmingham. 642-1133. A modish, trendy restaurant with wood-and-chrome ambience, respectable crepes and complicated sandwiches and Scandinavian specialties.

Nice Sunday brunch for people-watching. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 a.m. 11:30 a.m.-mldnlght Sun. Credit cards: AE, MC. Reasonable.

P.J. CLARKE'S, (210 S. Woodward, Birmingham. 644-5277. A smart little cafe, brand new, with the familiar New York name (but no connection, and no alcohol yet, either) has a bright menu with quiches and luncheon herb omelets or dinner seafood Jacqueline and a fine Sunday brunch.

Opposite the Birmingham Theatre. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun. Credit Cards: MC, V.

Reasonable. RESTAURANT DUGLASS, 29269 Southfield Southfleld. 424-9244. Duglass Duglass is the centrifuge for this new, discreetly Gallic enterprise that promises marvels and delivers recondite treats like coulibiac of crab, ballottine of lamb rack and duck with bananas and pecans. It has taupe walls, glamorous service and a sense of fun to the whole show.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. 5:30 p.m.-approx. 11 p.m. Credit Cards: MC, AE. Very expensive.

RIKSHAW INN, 6407 Orchard Lake West Bloomfield. 851-6400. The glory that was Canton, pre-Szechwan craze. Excellent Empress chicken, "wor bor" dishes with sizzling rice, and kaleidoscopic combinations of pork and things In oyster sauces. Bargain "family dinners" for two or more at $7.95 apiece.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. p.m. (till 12:30 am 4-10 p.m. Sun. Credit cards: AE, MC, DC.

Reasonable. STAGE DELICATESSEN, 13821 W. Nine Mile, Oak Park. 548-1111. A halcyon place, especially on Saturday and Sunday mornings, when the northwest cognoscenti dine on lox and eggs and bagels, as well as sandwiches and salads named after show-business types.

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. No credit cards. Reasonable. TAJ MAHAL, 3354 W. Twelve Mile, Berkley.

543-2218. Take 37 friends and each order one of this hot spot's 38 kinds of curry (and imagine one crazed Pakistani out in the kitchen). A storefront that offers 95 dishes, none of them boring. The hosts will translate for you. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-mldnlght 2:30 p.m.-midnight Sun.

Credit cards: V. Inexpensive. TWEENY'S CAFE, 280 N. Woodward Birmingham. 644-0050.

Exquisite care is taken with everything here gently attentive service, a wine list covered with Imported navy cotton, Canada CHEZ VINS, 26 Chatham East, Windsor. 519-252-2801. This Provencal sort of bistro has tiny tables, chintz cloths, gauzy cafe curtains, a white porcelain topped bar and a simple, informal menu highlighted by shepherd's pie, quiche, escargots and shrimp Diablo in two-wine sauce on peasant bread. A five-page list of from Page 9B east it's cozy with a picturesque stained glass ceiling and windows. The chef does unexpected little wonders with veal, scampi and delicate pasta.

Quixotic service. Hours: 11 a.m.-mldnight Credit cards: NIC, DC. Reasonable. FARINA'S GRANARY, 18431 Mack Ave. 881-3086.

The thrifty couple will find a routine but competent menu and a harvest-time atmosphere of barnwood, low ceilings, stucco walls and stained-glass picture-windows in a place most admired for its reasonable prices. There are daily specials like roast pork and Stuffed cabbage in the $4 range, good lentil soup and a bar for thirsty millers. Hours: 11 a.m.-1 am. Credit cards: MC. HUCK'S LAKESHORE, 23722 E.

Jefferson at Nine Mile, St. Clair Shores. 772-1700. A heartland Middle West place, efficiently run by an old restaurant family, trustworthy for staples like roast beef, roast turkey, frog legs (even chicken a la king), and typically informal enough for the sports from the boating neighborhood. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-1 am.

2-9 p.m. Sun. Major credit cards. Fairly expensive. IVANHOE CAFE, 5249 Jos.

Campau Ave. 925-5335. The choice in this wonderful old cafe is either perch or perch. Friends call it the Polish Yacht Club and It is an honorable throwback to the good old days of simple food and prices. That perch, with slabs of french fries and market-fresh vegetables, Is plain marvelous.

Lunch is served dinner served only. Hours vary, closed No credit cards. Inexpensive. LE CAFE FRANC AIS, Mack at Lochmoor, Grosse Pointe Woods. 343-0610.

Svelte, but stiff (maybe even tiny Le Cafe does not rush you through three hours' worth of six courses with entrees of scallops, sole, hen, beef or veal but the lofty tone of the staff tends to rival the height of the cuisine. Hours: p.m. Reservations only. No credit cards. Expensive.

THE OLD PLACE, 15301 E. Jefferson, Grosse Pointe Park. 822-4118. Not trendy at all. This old throwback to the French-cuff era just moseys along on a menu of 40-odd dishes (mainly seafood), none more exciting than the next so's not to upset any of the old crowd.

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. 11 a.m.-mid-nlght 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Credit cards: AE, MC, CB, DC. Reasonable. PAT O'GRADY'S LAKE SHORE, 24937 E.

Jefferson, St. Clair Shores. 772-4777. A charming crabapple-green Victorian reminder of San Francisco, with its stained glass, bentwood chairs, ceiling fans and green leather banquettes. Sizable steaks, carefully done pickerel and frogs legs, some good sandwiches late at night.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. 2 p.m.-2 a.m. Sun. Credit cards: MC. Reasonable.

THE OPERA HOUSE, 15201 E. Warren. 885-4777. Mix your adulation for Renata Scotto, Eileen Farrell and Gilda Cruz-Romo with the dishes bearing their names In this elegant tribute to both the operatic and the gastronomic arts. Service Is slow, so be prepared to gaze over the posters, autographed pictures and taped operatic excerpts as you await your Chicken Supremes Nprma or your Beef Stroganoff Boris.

It's worth the wait. Hours: M0 p.m 6-11 p.m. Major, credit cards. Expensive. t) PINKEY'S BOULEVARD CLUB, 110 E.

Grand Blvd. 824-2820. Why does It always seem like family-reunion time In here? Highly gregarious people abound to sample a lengthy menu of American dishes and sandwiches that go with the easy style of this former speakeasy. On request, the bartender sings "Itsy Bltsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polkadot Bikini" like Bela Lugosi. Hours: 11 a.m.

Credit cardsV, MC. Reasonable. ROYAL EAGLE, 1415 Parker. 331-8088. In a 1940s American hotel dining room setting (the old Parkstone apartments) is a small but notable Polish restaurant, its cuisine more refined than most, offering roast duck, Beef Polonaise, blintzes and darkly delicious duck soup.

Zywiec beer, too. Hours: 6-10 p.m. 6-11 p.m. 4-8 p.m. Sun.

No credit cards. Reservations. Reasonable. and succeeds with dishes like sweetbreads and veal kidneys, marinated venison steaks, stuffed quail and beef tenderloin with oysters flamed with Wild Turkey. Nice.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:15 p.m., 6-10 p.m. (till 11:30 p.m. p.m. Sun. Credit cards: MC, AE.

Very expensive. THE BIJOU, 30855 Southfleld Southfleld. 644-5522. Art Deco glamor, movie-star photos and silver-screen waiters are the trimmings on a costly place where the menu is as elegant as the prices. Hors d'oeuvres like wasabi shrimp and escargots are more titillating than some entrees, which are uneven In quality.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 6-10 p.m. 6-11 p.m. Sat. Credit cards: MC, AE. Very expensive.

THE BLOOMFIELD CANOPY, 6560 Orchard Lake Orchard Lake. 626-1587. There's the Brighton Canopy and then there's this one, a bustling middlebrow restaurant where it pays your sense of serenity to ask for a table In the contemporary room farthest from the bar. Predictabe but competent menu features surf 'n' turf, fine garlicy scampi, turtle soup, admirable double-baked potato. Friendly.

Hours: 11 a.m. -midnight (till 1 a.m. Frl. 4-9 p.m. Sun.

Credit cards: MC, AE, DC. Expensive. CAFE CORTINA, 30714 Ten Mile Farmington Hills. 474-3033. A fire flickers in the hooded fireplace, the room is of soft earth tones in wood, brick and leaded glass.

The cooking has a similar warmth of the good earth of Northern Italy, with a lovely spaghetti prlmavera and delicate variations with veal, including one stuffed with eggplant, cheese and prosciutto. Nothing stereotypical here. A favorite of the AG's. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. 4-11 p.m.

1-10 p.m. Sun. Credit cards: MC, AEDC. Rea sonable to Expensive. CHARLEY'S CRAB, 5498 Crooks, Northfleld Hilton, Troy.

879-2060. The dining room used to be a Grosse Pointe mansion's living room. The predictable Chuck Muer fish nets thus add a note of je ne sais quois. Certainly the most dandy-looking of the far-flung Muer flotilla. Menu mostly seafood.

Hours: 5-11 p.m. (till midnight 3-10 p.m. Sun. Major credit cards. Expensive.

THE CLARKSTON CAFE, 18 S. Main Clarkston. 625-5660. Two cozy farmhouse rooms, one with firelight, one with bar, and a chef surprlsel who trained In Belgium. The ambitious menu succeeds with most things, notably a veal madagascar with green peppercorns and a light sauce that's sublime.

Small but canny wine list. It's a wonderful getaway place that promises quaintness and delivers. Hours: 10:30 a.m.-1 1 p.m., Credit Cards: AE, MC. Reasonable. COOPER'S ARMS, 306 Main Rochester.

1-651-2266. Coopers traditionally made barrels, using, presumably, coopers' arms (and hands). Rochester people use Cooper's Arms to dine in; it's their downtown restaurant with a Tudor exterior, heavy wooden doors, a reasonable beef-seafood menu and merry service. Pricey steaks and appetizers and desserts that border on the prosaic (also a salad bar), but good daily specials like the juicy beef tips, shark (I), pickerel, liver or swordfish. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m.

p.m. (till 11:30 p.m. Credit cards: MC, DC, AE. Reasonable. THE DOUBLE EAGLE, 6725 Rochester, Troy.

879-1555. Two handsome rooms overlooking a golf course and furnished like an architect's office. American menu from all over, with Southern jam-balaya, Eastern steak-and-crab, Northern pickerel and buttermilk biscuits that are hot stuff. Hours: a.m.-10 p.m. (till midnight 5 p.m.-midnight Credit cards: MC, AE.

Reasonable. DOUG'S BODY SHOP, 22061 Woodward Ferndale. 399-1040. Life is a rumble seat, old chum, This is what happens to old back seats; they make tables out of them, and It's like going to Mel's Burger City Drive-In Indoors. The food, secondary to the music, bar and chassis-watching, is better than you'd suspect.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. -3 p.m., 5-11 p.m. (till midnight Credit cards: MC, DC, AE. Reasonable. EDEN GLEN, 2085 W.

Big Beaver Troy. 649-1880. Between splurges at Somerset Mall, this is a good dining bet In the neighborhood. Nothing startling, but the restaurant's airy and pretty and the staff Is charming. A Sunday "New Orleans Brunch" Is worth a try.

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. (till midnight 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun. Credit cards: MC, AE, DC. Reasonable.

ELIZABETH'S, 227 Hutton, Northville. 348-0575. A skinny little house, painted and polished to a luster, with seating for only 34 a gourrnet's hideaway In Boston scrod and New England clambake, with traditional desserts. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 6-10 p.m.

(till 11 p.m. 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Sun. for brunch and 6-9 p.m. Credit cards: MC, AE, DC.

Expensive. FOGO'S SEAFOOD SPIRITS, 20480 James Couzens. 861-6333. A cheery-enough new place on the site of the old Scotch 'n Sirloin done up In a maritime kind of coral-and-shells decor and featuring seafood, a raw bar, a booze bar, clams, mussels, family meals and oysters done a half-dozen ways. Hours: 11 a.m.-2 a.m.

weekdays; 5 p.m. -2 a.m. 3-10 p.m. Sun. Major credit cards.

Reasonable to Expensive. JOHN LAFFREY'S STEAKS ON THE HEARTH, 24201 W. Seven Mile. 538-4688. You can get a swell steak here, and also watch the chef through the flames in a meat version of "Die Walkure." Six or seven kinds of steak, one kind of baked potato.

Friendly. Hours: 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m., p.m. (till midnight 5-10 p.m. Sun. Credit cards: AB, MC, DC.

Reasonable. KYOTO, 18601 Hubbard Falrlane Town Center, Dearborn. 593-3200. Nippon a la Dearborn, with Japanese chefs doing their "hlllyeee" number on steaks and lobster tails. A $12 "Kyoto special" Includes sake, shrimp, oriental vegetables and a steak marked "Sumo portion" for would-be fat people.

Hours: p.m. (till midnight 3-9 p.m. Sun. Major credit cards. Reasonable.

LA ROTISSERIE, Hyatt Regency-Dearborn Hotel, Michigan at Southfield. 593-1234. An extraordinary place, akin to New York's Four Seasons in eye appeal, with a sophisticated menu including duck, celestial beef and lobster and unfailingly disarming service. Romantic have your next affair here. Hours: 6-11 p.m.

6-11 p.m. brunch 10 a.m. -2 p.m. Sun. Major credit cards.

Expensive. Who cares? MATTIE'S BAR-B-Q, 7504 W. McNichols Rd. 341-0832. A simple family-style restaurant with 13 entrees and three daily specials, all averaging $3.75, and no fewer than 16 vegetables.

The new Mattie's is so big and brightly lighted because it used to be a women's clothing store, but now it offers ham hocks, baked ribs with cornbread dressing, meat loaf and a fried chicken that could stand some livening up. Barbecue, ironically, is not on the menu, but candied sweet potatoes, cornmeal muffins and banana pudding certainly are. Hours: 8 a.m.-9 p.m. every day. No credit cards.

No alcohol. Inexpensive. (Second location: 11728 Dexter, 869-6331, open 24 hours.) MEXICAN VILLAGE, 600 Bagley. 237-0333. It's lost some of its zest, but Its Tex-Mex authenticity is unarguable, and the enchiladas ARE hot and the best drink is Dos Equis.

Hours: 11 a.m. -4 a.m. daily. Credit cards: AE, DC. Inexpensive.

MOY'S JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE, 16825 Middlebelt Livonia. 427-3170. The table top erupts into flames, which is all right since it is stainless steel and there's a demonic Japanese chef on hand to whip off a frenzy of good filet and hibachi vegetables in this authentic, crowded island kingdom in Livonia. Un-cozy, with tables for you two and six strangers. Hours: Noon-9 p.m.

11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Credit cards: MC, AE, DC, Amoco. Reasonable. NEW PEKING, 29105 Ford Garden City.

425-2230. Hot-sour soup, staunch Mongolian beef, Hong Kong-style Moe-Hsue pork, fried prawns the Chinese cuisine just keeps coming. Native-born Chinese find the Far East west of Dearborn in this most excellent place. Open daily, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Credit cards: MC, DC.

Inexpensive. north ARCHIBALD'S, 555 S. Woodward, Birmingham. 642-9400. A fair menu of widely scattered regional favorites like Southern ribs, Far Eastern shrimp tempura, western steaks.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-11 p.m. (till midnight Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V. Reasonable. BEDELL'S, 2395 Woodward, Bloomfleld Hills.

334-4561. A homey, old-shoe kind of place where they charge you on the new-shoe level, though the quality Is first-rate. Matchless roast beef, good fish (notably the trout), an elaborate salad bar, and a smart look to the whole operation. Hours: 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. (till 11:30 p.m.

p.m. 10:30 a.m.-noon Sun. when Lions play at home. Credit cards: MC, DC, AE. Expensive.

THE BENCHMARK, 14600 J.L. Hudson Michigan Inn, Southfleld. 559-6500. A hotel restaurant like few others, it dedlcatedly tries to be different Summing up Restaurant prices change almost daily. But when these restaurants were reviewed, their prices -r- for a complete dinner for two, with a modest bottle of wine (but no drinks), tip and tax fell into the following ranges: Inexpensive: $20 or less.

Reasonable: Expensive: Very expensive: More than $45. SAHARA RESTAURANT, 16415 E. Warren. 885-5503. This immaculate store-front restaurant, no tourist place, has eye-opening baba-ghanouge, hummous, taboulee salad, kibbee, stuffed grape leaves, okra with lamb, shish-kebab and unique stuffed squash.

Amazing, all. The most expensive dish is the combination plate for $5.50. Hours: 9:30 a.m.-8 p.m. No credit cards. Inexpensive.

SINDBAD'S, 100 St. Clair Ave. 822-7817. Instant yacht club status, down by the river in a fblksy big joint that overlooks a marina full of boats that could just as well be yours. Hamburgers, chili, fresh fish, jole de mer.

Wear your Topsiders and look naval. Everybody In Detroit's been here some time or other. Hours: 10 a.m.-1 a.m. noon-2 a.m. Sun.

Credit cards: MC, AE, DC. Reasonable. THE SIXPENCE, 39700 Van Dyke, Sterling Heights. 939-0090. Also at 15101 E.

Twelve Mile, Warren. 776-2662. Picturesque and fun, this mock-Tudor castle is one of the best examples going of medium-priced, limited-menu suburban restaurants that gives you whopping sandwiches, delicious barbecued ribs and clams and doesn't rob you and that's why it's always jam-packed. Hours: 11 a.m.-1:45 a.m. 1 p.m.-midnight Sun.

Major credit cards. Inexpensive. TURTLE SOUP INN, 4131 E. McNIchols Rd. 891-8390.

The place where the Hamtramck elite meet to eat turtle soup. Also rapture-inducing barbecued pork ribs, prepared by the chefs one Yugoslav, one Pole with that old Slavic soul. The hearty soup looks like what you feed to men on snowshoes coming in from the Yukon. Bucks you right up. Cabbage dumplings, strawberry pie (homemade, in season), 75-cent "boombas" of beer, It's Hamtramck.

Heaven. Hours: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Noon-2 a.m. Sun. No credit cards.

Inexpensive. west ALIETTE'S, 3459 Porter. 554-0907. Small is better in this tiny (36 seats) outpost of French provincial cooking that has one of the five best kitchens in town. The menu chalked on the blackboard can include a formidable veal maison, tenderloin filet with truffles, house pate and thick mousses.

Fine breads and pastries come from the bakery in the other room. No credit cards. Surprisingly reasonable. THE CHAMBERTIN, 22900 Michigan Dearborn. 278-6900.

Despite the name, it's Williamsburg-American, and about that exciting, but Chambertin is a competent, cordial restaurant for Sunday family dinners, etc. Hours: 11 a.m. -2 p.m., 5-11 p.m. 5-11 p.m. 2-10 p.m.

Sun. Credit cards: AE, MC, DC. Reasonable. CIUNGAN'S SHRIMP HOUSE, 151 Southfleld Ecorse. 386-1700.

A conservative, family-style restaurant allegedly with the largest choice of fresh lake and ocean fish south of Joe Muer's, notably fried clams, excellent broiled trout, red snapper and filips like shrimp gumbo soup and "Shrimp House salad." Hours: 11:30 a.m.-mldnlght 4:30 p.m.-12:30 a.m. p.m. Sun. Major credit cards. Reasonable to Expensive.

DEARBORN INN, Early American Room, 20301 Oakwood Dearborn. 271-2700. The inn's Early American Room is a noble attraction not only for tourists, but also for localites who spend part of their vacations in Dearborn. Honest, hearty dinners like lamb chop with veal kidney, public notice: Michigan Water Resources Commission Stevens T. Mason Building Lansing, Michigan 48909 517-373-8088 Date: February 22, 1980 Permit Number: Ml 0001368 NOTICE: Ottawa Silica Company, Michigan Division, Rockwood, Michigan presently hat a valid National Pollutant Discharge Elimination System (Public law 92-500) Permit, issued November 27, 1979 to discharge process washwater, groundwater, quarry seepage water and storm-t water from its facility located at 33620 Streicher Rockwood, Ml.

The applicant is engaged in the mining and refining of silica for industrial uses. The company discharges its effluent to Huron River and Silver Creek-It is hereby noticed that the following modifications or revisions of said permit are proposed: Authorize an increased discharge ol Quarry seepage water to silver Creek via outfall 002. Revise the total suspended solids limitations from 480 lbday average and 1441 lbday maximum to 960 lbday average and 2882 lbday maximum to reflect the increased volume ol quarry seepage water discharge. On the basis of preliminary staff review and application of applicable standards and regulations, the Michigan Water Resources Commission proposes to issue a revised permit for the discharge subject to certain effluent limitations and special conditions The permit expiration date is March 31, 1985 The proposed determination to revise an NPDES Permit is tentative. Persons wishing to comment upon, or object to, the proposed permit modifications are invited to submit the same in writing to: Engineering Technical Services Section Water Quality Division Dept.

of Natural Resources Bo 30028 Lansing, Michigan 48909 The name of the permittee and permit number should appear neit to the above address on the envelope and the first page of any submitted comments. Al comments received within thirty (30) days of the date of issuance ol this public notice wl be considered in the formulation of the final determinations. If no written objections are received the Michigan Water Resources Commission wl issue its final determinations no later than sixty (60) days following the date of this notice. The application, issued permit and proposed revisions, and other information, are on file and may be inspected at the Water Quality Division offices, 8th Floor, Stevens T. Mason Building, Lansing, Michigan and at the District Office located at Rt.

2, 37205 Mouillee Road, Rockwood, Michigan 48173, phone 313379 9692 at any time between 9:30 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Copies of the Public Notice and corresponding Fact Sheet summarizing application information and proposed permit conditions are available at no charge. Copies of all other information are available at a cost ol 5' per page.

Pleat bring the foregoing to the attention of persons whom you know would be interested in this matter. 0 HEALTHY JONES, 29221 Northwestern Southfield. 353-7766. This airy bower of natural wood, emerald green, hanging ferns and incorrigibly peppy people is vitamin-packed and charming. A runaway success, Healthy's has neither beef nor whisky but a cornucopia of five dozen meatless suppers, sandwiches, quiches, crepes, omelets, salads, even spaghetti and pizza.

Anything that can be done with vegetables, is. Massage your stockinged feet on the knobby iron table bases; like everything else here, It feels good. Hours: 10 a.m.-11 p.m. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sun.

Major credit cards. Reasonable. HOGAN'S FAMILY TAVERN, 6450 Telegraph, Birmingham. 626-1800. A new place, once a Howard Johnson's with posters and hot-colored funhouse decor, a reasonable menu with something for everyone (notably hamburgers, gazpacho, big sundaes) and informal for couples or families.

Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight (Bar till 2 a.m.) Credit cards: MC, AE. Reasonable. IRVING'S ORIGINAL RESTAURANT AND DELI, 27167 Greenfield Southfield. 559-1380. One of the best delicatessens in America.

Sandwiches to boggle the mind, no fewer than 13 dispensed by a young man with the air of a French chef. Order cabbage soup and a "Continental Number 7." Trust us. R3D1 PAY 1979 COUNTY TAXES MOW Beginning March 1, 1980, interest of of 1 per month will be added in addition to the 4 Collection Fee charges due on all unpaid 1979 County Taxes on Personal and Real Properties located in the City of Detroit. By law, a $1 .00 minimum Collection Fee will become effective on the same date. Mail check or money order with entire bill to: RAYMOND J.

WOJTOWICZ Wayne County Treasurer 208 City-County Building Two Woodward Avenue Detroit, Michigan 48226 OFFICE HOURS: 8:30 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. Monday thru Friday Closed Saturday.