Detroit Free Press from Detroit, Michigan • Page 34

THE DETROIT FKEE PRESS SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 12. 1919 PART THREE Choose a Gown That Sparkles and Gleams for Brilliant Holiday Season Ahead 10 Up-to-Date Manners By Susan Bartlett dm IS Mm i fa Glamour with Glasses By Isabella Taves NEW YORK, Nov. LADIES who wear specs are receiving the devoted attention of the fashion experts these days. A recent fashion show at Helena Ruben-stein's with hats by Sally Victor went into the problem of glamour for the lady with glasses. Victor, who wears glasses herself on occasion, scoffs at the idea of hiding the be-glassed visage under a brimmed hat.

She thinks that glasses should be Jet" into the accessory class and so suggested brief little brimless caps to be worn with pastel-rimmed glasses. Rubenstein explained that make-up tricks lend glamour behind glasses eye shadow, rouge worn high, carefull attention to eyebrows. Extra large lensed glasses with dark blue frame were shown with a dress of win-tergreen blue, and rust accessories. Pastel lenses echoed dress or accessory colors, looked lovely in contrast with dark brown or black. The lenses of the glasses were rot traditional in shape, either.

A square-faced little model wore glasses with lenses broader at the top than at the bottom to minimize the breadth of her lower features. A gray-haired woman with a long nose and face had rounded frames and lenses to give her face width. THE BEAVER GREATCOAT is the darling of the year for foot-hall games and for chic country gatherings. Item Mrs. Verner I A ft A iff 'K fc'j) i 7-1 Sequins for Glitter By Jean Pearson SPARKLING champagne, glittering jewels, gleaming lights from crystal chandeliers, twinkling stars in a pitch-black winter sky.

Charity balls, new plays, winter debuts, formal dinner dances and smart cocktail parties. They're all a part of the brilliant holiday season about to open. A season filled with festivities that will require the same scintillating sparkle in your dress. You'll have to glitter and gleam in sequins, beading, pailettes and gold fringe. But it won't be difficult in fact, it would be hard to avoid.

For all the newer frocks and gowns are resplendant with glittering trim. Today six of the many new styles in town are sketched three daytime, three evening. A HEAVENLY dance dress that comes in either flame, French cognac, black or white chiffon is sketched at the top left. The whirling, circular skirt has yards and yards of chiffon that eliminates diagonal seams. The sparkle radiates from gold sequin and bead trim.

Special design features of this enchanting gown are the new, wider shoulder straps and beautifully gathered and divided bustline. A half bow-ties, in back to make the fitted waistline even slenderer. In all sizes from 10 to 20 for $39.95. A double rope of bugle beads strung over frosty white yarn gives a sparkle to the full-bodiced crepe at the left. Coming in either daytime or evening length, this model has bracelet-length sleeves, fullness in the skirt back, and fullness in the skirt front from shirring at a slight dip.

The self-covered belt is stitched. A smart new design that comes in either taupe or black for $35 daytime length, and $39.95, evening. RANCH CORAL and gold cord and leaves form a yoke on the dressy afternoon crepe at the right. It has a high neckline with shirring giving soft fullness to the bodice below the yoke. The sleeves are bracelet length and the skirt is gored with a gentle flare starting low.

Priced at $29.95. Bands of gold fringe run 'round and 'round in stripes on the light green 'net formal at the bottom left. The gown has low decolletage with slim shoulder straps and a fitted bodice. Double net flares out over taffeta in the bouffant skirt. A gown strictly on the formal side that is priced at $49.95.

OURS for glittering glamour is the sequin-topped A cocktail dress directly below. Its complete top is of gleaming, jet black sequins with the exception of a white, green-leafed flower in sequins. Tiny waistline is girdled and there is a gentle flare to the crepe skirt. In black only, at $39.95. Jersey -a rising favorite in evening wear is the fabric of the peg-top dinner gown at the bottom right.

All silver embroidered in beads and brilliants, the dress is featured in gray. Fullness to the skirt comes from gathering at a dip in back. A sophisticated dinner gown that heeds this year's advice to cover up for evening. Priced at $49.95. 4 wit I I I k'' -i.

For shopping informs tion on these fashions, call Randolph 8900, Line 228, or write Fashion fcditor inclosing a three-cent stamp. Heed at the Race Meeting of the Essex Fox Hounds (Just as swish as it sounds) wore a plaid suit, a plaid draped turban, beige wool ribbed hose, brown low-heeled country slippers and a dress-length unshaved beaver coat with square shoulders and turn-back lapels. "THE REDDEST RED I've ever seen" was the way my little manicurist described the new 1 red in fingernail polishes last week. And that's the way I felt at the ppening of the Horse Show. There weren't an awful lot of reds, but the ones there were certainly shouting.

And I saw not only red evening gowns but blood-red full-length broadcloth coats and crimson capes, dramatically full. On the whole, however, the cloth evening coat was in the minority. Furs were lush, lavish and wonderful. Full length and three-quarter silver foxes as worn by Mrs. Frederick Clark, complete with four orchids.

White foxes, in short Jackets or capes; new and smart, I know, but still looking a little too-too for my but-ter-and-egg tastes. Minks, but naturally. Sables. And more ermines than I've ever seen before. Jewelry wasn't of special significance.

Just those same old diamonds and rubles we saw last year. Gold snoods were all over the place, but nary an evening hat. Flowers were orchids and gardenias with an occasional camellia worn in the hair by the younger fry as In Rosamond Murray, owner of the blue ribbon winner "Erica." THE TALLY-HO DRIVERS Classic though their togs wore orchids, to a woman. It looked odd to unlnitiates like me. The riders clung to their derbies, hair nets and traditions.

Mrs. John Hay Whitney wore a yellow, brown and white checked jacket over her monotone whipcord breeches. Prune Duke wore an oxford Jacket and light whipcord breeches. Elizabeth Hyland explained to me carefully that one didn't wear derbies and hair nets because one wants to, but because tradition has it that a woman riding should look as much like a man as possible. When you're in the country you can cut loose and wear a classic sports hat or even if you're particularly conventionless go unhatted and un-netted.

But don't let Emily Post see you. The old school still frowns on too much freedom on a horse. EVEN the most beautiful silver and crystal will not conceal an incorrect table setting. Indeed, the more formal the party, the more irr portant it is that your table is correct in every detail, that it is entirely pleasing to the eye with no discordant note. This questionnaire on table setting and service may clear up points that have been bothering you, and help you to be a more successful hostess.

1 What type of table cloth should I have for the formal dinner? Or are doilies correct? The white damask cloth Is always correct, as are a lare cloth, a lace and linen one, a pale shade of colored damask. It is also correct to leave the surface bare except for very small fine doilies under the plates. 2 Should all the implements he on the table? All the implements in accordance with a given menu should be on the table, up to, but not including, the dessert course. 3 Where should the implements be placed? The right-hand implements, that is knives and spoons, on the right; the left-hand implements, forks, on the left. 4 Are there ever any excop-tions to this? The oyster fork is placed on the right.

This is the only time a fork is on the right. 5 What would then be the correct implements for the dinner of oysters, soup, roast, salad and dessert The oyster fork would be on the outside at the right (If melon were substituted this would call for a dessert spoon), a soup spoon next toward the plate, the larpe roast knife, the smaller salad knife. On the left, starting from the outside and going toward the plate, the large roast fork, the smaller, second-sized fork for salad. The Implements for dessert are brought in with dessert. 6 Where is the napkin placed and how is it folded The proper place for the napkin is on the plate.

They are folded in various simple ways, a plain square; in three, with the sides turned under making a flat roll, nr placed diamond-fashion on the plate and turned under at the side points. 7 What glasses are on the table? One, two or three. The water goblet, a glass which might hold sherry and one for champagne. The water goblet is at the top, the other two glasses form the base of a triangle. 8 Must the china be uniform throughout the courses? It can be, but usually Is not.

Often the oyster plates, salad and dessert plates differ from those in the main course. The soup plates should harmonize with the place plates, but do not have to match. 9 Is glass ever used? For cold courses such ri salad or dessert, yes. GIbss is not as fashionable for hot courses where meats and gravies are served. 10 What plates are used for the dinner mentioned? Place-plates, rimmed soup-plates, main course plate, game and salad plate all brought from the pantry.

The dessert plate, set with dessert spoon and fork and placed ready for service on the side table, and the fruit plate set with finger-bowl on it, on the side table. 11 Is it ever correct to have the finger-bowl on its glass piste brought in with the dessert plate? Any time you wish to simplify the service. 12 Is service from left of right? Always from the left. 13 When can the guests start to smoke? Smoking usually begins just before dessert when lighters, cigarets and matches are passed around. 14 Should coffee be served after dinner or at the table? This is up to the hostess, if it is served in the living room after dinner, a trav with the coffee pot.

cups and saucers already set with a spoon, and cream and sugar should be passed to the guests. If there is only one person waiting, the tray should be placed on the table and the hostess pours and passes the cups. Diamond Pin Decorates Seal Muff Helen Cook man is showing many of her tweed coats and suit with diamond frost flower pins. One outfit of diagonal purri tweed is topped with a tiny seal collar and worn with a wide stole and muff of the same glistening black fur. Pinned to the muff like dewy violets, is a big of diamonds and amethysts.

The cluster-pin on the collar is mond cherry blossoms. When you remove your coat a stand-up party, you keep the stole around your shoulders and carry your muff. Thie lends great el gance to your appcaranre, even with a simple little dress. You can buy the coat without the sto.e fcnd muff, ct tours. 1 f' i f'WL V- 2.

ff V- I lis. hA (llW JHJiL. Mi4vA About Women The Elizabeth Garrett Anderson Hospital in London, England, Is managed exclusively by women. Some women in Russia wear hats of brass, and their heavy head coverings are considered quite stylish. More than 40,000,000 women In the United States are beneficiaries of life insurance policies alone.

Women firefighters wear trousers in London, England. Housewifely Beauty Subject of Leaflet Many a woman whose home is an example of her love of beauty lets herself go to such an extent that she the guiding spirit of the home is no longer attractive. She thinks if she looks clean and neat that's all that matters. A new Free Press beauty leaflet, B-97, "Beauty for the Housewife," discusses ways of rfTW; 'Wi making housework into a fig' ure-building program, ways of squeezing in time for face creaming, oil treatments for the hair, care of the hands and feet, ways to relax during the day. If you would like a copy of this BEAUTY FOR THE HOUSEWIFE, send your name, address and a three-cent stamp to the Women's Service Bureau, Detroit Free Press.

Leaflets are obtainable also at the Free Press downtown office in Cunningham's Drug Store, 1124 Orlawold t..