The Times Leader from Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania • Page 12

THE HECOHD. i. il I knowrof one girl who Valenciennes, whfle the skirt was sim -x "IS Think Woman of Ability Make ths Bett YVlve The 1 Importance of Having Nice Street Clothe Tbe Gidmpe Dress Here to Stay Tha Faa; Toe Sleeping Outdoor! and Its Effect oa Nervous Persons. Dfftiln. Dolls for marry; I won't, have hltn." "Well 1 won't force I shall soon find wife for such a clover fellow." The missionary remains silent, he understood her 'No to have endi the matter.

last, with a Rish, slia whispers, "JuBt as thou wilt have It, missionary," No, replies the clcrgy-manj. "as thou wilt. I'll not persuade thee." Then, with a deep groan, comrs "Yes," and the matter Is settled. MEN IN WOMEN'S PLACES, Jf 'T I cannot understand why women are so desperately anxious to enter professions and trades which obviously are suited only to says a "while they allow men to -supersede then in others that seenf by right to belong to women alone. One of these Is the art of halrdresslng; another is cooking; a third Is dress designing.

Men are acknowledged to excel in all these occupations, but It Is my firm conviction that, If women only chose, they could cut out the men and be en titled to the higher wages. It is absurd to think that a woman should not be able to dress hair better than a man." 1 y'w 71 LiA- maa ply plaited and hemmed ankle length. With this (Were worn a French sailor hat, also of -eyelet embroidery, trimmed with a twist of pale blue, and on of pale pink taffeta ribbon. Guimpe Di The guimpe dress is with us to stay. You see.lt In all colored silks, but is prettiest" In.

la vender, he guimpe Is best made of fine' transparent organdie, with elbow -sleeves ending In cuffs of lace, the trkn-oarent collar being also of the -j. -V The eweat collar foundaUons are the upper and lower stiff Oprtablefor summer wear, beside cans- ajie ipecK appear mncn 'smaller ihd. collars can-be procured for -10 entt each, and really there is not an excuse left for the woman with sagging neckwear. Put a ycollar on every wash waist yon have. Tbey are eaUy to and taken out tat We certainly have tbe hot weather with ns.

Some people anffer very much from it, but it Is my private opinion that a great many mora suffer because they do not know how to take things easy. For the woman who overdresses In warm weather I have no sympathy. It la foolish and unnecessary, and if she i io laanionaoia notet where five changes a day are necessary let not grumble that's, all, The man who drinks hot coffee i oatmeal every morning to simply shoveling coal into the furnace, and so Is the nervous, little woman who persists in a meat diet Many a nervous wreck has saved his life by sleeping out or aoors, ana that to what I want to talk about It to not so difficult as It SOUnOS. -y The Outdoor Sleeplna Fed. If you live in the country try putting a tent on the lawn.

Once yon have slept In It you will never want to go back to a stuffy bedroom. The owner of a bouse with a balcony can easily fit It with screens and rolling shades of material thin enough to admit the air and thick enough to protect from the public gase. In a city house a tent or screen arrangement can be rigged up oi the roof, and one night thus spent in tne open win be found worth three nights In a sweltering bedroom. a or mine wno was a nervous wreck cured herself in this way. She hunted until she found a summer Don't 4nrfet 1st sir vie are soar.

I boarding house which had a room with balcony facing the sea. This she screened with Venetian blinds and furnished with -a strip of carpet and a cot bed. At first she occupied this balcony night and day. In the morning SO a cup of cocoa would be brought to her, after which she would go Into tbe bedroom adjoining, fix her hair and to seed, she gathers tbe sows them, watches and tends the resulting plants till they fructify and in like manner gathers the seeds of this second generation and garners them for planting. She regards all change in tbe floral kingdom aa manifestation of a force that is seeking new -expression, and she treasures it accordingly being wiser with her plants than most parents are with their children.

In time the change she has fostered becomes fixed, then' a' new flower-. appears on the scene. Hybridising to an Intensely Interesting part of Mrs. Shepherd's work. She carefully selects the flowers she wishes to cross, then takes upon the tip of a little camel's hair brush some of the pollen of one flower and deposits It up-: on the pistil of the other flower.

Thus transported to a new home, the strange life, whatever It la, in the pollen, seises upon the pistil of the fertilised plant and nourishes Itself and produces BLACK TAFFETA, FROCK This black taffeta, frock. to a charming model for a matron. The skirt has a box plaited panel In front and to gathered at the sides and back. At the bottom are handsome ornaments of ecru lace. The bodloa is trimmed with Ihese lace motifs, and a small smplece: nent of aB over embroidery Is finished with a crossed waistcoat Of white mult 1 -m i makes quite a tUly, Httlo turn clothing dolls In nn unusual or tiuuint -manner.

She Is nt- present engaged In robing setof them to represent Dickons' characters. They are to be rained at a church tiaaaar about Thanksgiving Another a fj lend of hers, is a perfect wonder at making rag babies, and you know. In spite of all the French waxen beauties, the rag doll will always be the favorite of the very young child. One of those rag dolls which she made recently tor a tittle millionaire on Fifth avenue was as large as a real baby. It waa made of stockinet, the entire body- belngflesh color, while the face and hands were most artistically painted.

The dresses for this rag child were perfect copies of those of the up to date infant and the pa(nts used were' waterproof, so that It Miss Dolly fell into the bathtub it would not hurt' her at all. The same woman makes fascinating anl-tpals, har specialty being a large brown monkey most lifelike In appearance. he derives a very good Income from her work and receives orders for Christ- trees and fairs months in advance. re I close I want to give one more hot weather hint: Don't forget the sick who are poor. There to no greater purgatory than to be shut up In an 111 smelling room without Ice and without wholesome Invalids food, when one's very life depends on the right kind ot nourishment i Yes, I know there are societies, to look after these cases, but they don't reach avery one, especially In the small towns where charity work Is not well organised and dependstprtn-clpally on the kindness of Individuals.

it Is bad enough to be poor if one to strong, but it Is insufferable In hot weather to be poor and 111 at the same time. iii ikt '-6 A WOMAN'S "NOI Hera Is an account of the, primitive method of courtship In the region of Greenland's Icy mountains: When the Danish missionaries bad secured the confidence of the Green-landers, marriage was made a religious (feremony. One of the missionaries thus described the style of procedure In choosing and getting a The suitor, coming to the says, should like to have a wife." "WhomT asks the missionary The man names the woman. fHast thou spoken to herr Sometimes the man will answer, "Yes; she not unwilling, but thou knowest womankind." More frequently the answer to "No." "Why is difficult; girls are' prudish. Thou must apeak to The missionary summons the girl and, after a little conversation; VI think It is time to have thee married." "I won't marry." "What a pity! I had a suitor for "Whom?" The missionary, names the man who has sought his aid.

"He Is good 'for nothing; I won't have him." "But," replies the missionary "be to a good provider; he throws his harpoon with skill and loves thee." Though listening to his praise: with evident pleasure, the girl answers, "No, I won't A MODISH "3 'i7 'f-' Nei' York. a jpC I STILL persist in saying that tne women who do things are the nap 5 tesC Not only are they the hap- out uiei ui tre wum en. That is why 'a husband is short sighted when- fas''-Is Jealous of some 'f hit wife has. It Is a great deal better to be Jealous of a talent than of another reminds me of a nine little scandal which occurred a couple of years ago." A rich man mar rted, over In Furls, a girl who had a pronounced talent tor sculpture. After the wedding he frowned severely upon her modeling45 'apparatus and ordered It removed from the house.

He wanted wife, he said, and not a dauber In was all very well when she was the poor Miss 'Clank, hut now that she had married a fortune she )' must take herplaoe in society and not work any iflbre. It did not matter how much talent she had or thought she had, really smart people did nothing but go around and enjoy themselves. Why couldn't she do the same and be like other women j. Well, she did as he told her. She washed her hands of clay for once and for alL She choked hack all the heau- tlful aspirations she had, for they did belong In her present exalted post tlon, she had been- told.

She spent a whole weary year trying to stand pink teas and the inane' conversation of women who never could do anything and never had an original thought In their lives. Then, Just as she was beginning to consider suicide as an alternative to such a life, she me: a very fascinating man she never would have known- had she spent less time gadding around trying to kill time. -according "to the Instructions of "rtAr her husband, If 1 sies, ghS had been ln- terested In her art she would not have been influenced by his sophistries, be-' cause her life would have been too full 'of beautiful thoughts and aspirations lor- her -to adopt anything; that savored of discord or falseness, but as It was, I am sorry to say, she ran away with 'Wn. And everybody said it "was her fault, of course, but think the crime was to be-laid at herJbusband's door. True, he surrounded iber with luxury, hut there I is enough to make the eastern woman Jealous to read what the feminine sex la accomplishing In California.

Eastern folk have long knowrt of Jhe ranch of Mrs. Et P. Buckingham of Vacaville. It was not a particularly profitabls ranch when one day, no ipkro than twenty years ago, there v-amf tofthe keen Intelli gence of Mrs. Buckingham the brilliant Jdea of making swamp grass her land pay.

her a good sum. How she had the lelavarnesa to persuade tbe leaders in a 'presidential campaign to adopt pampas; grass plumes as their emblems In' parades the land, Mrs, Buckingham furnish ing the plumes from her California swamp lands, many know. It was a business-stroke as agriculturist ever Accomplished. The sale of the pampas plumes gave the brave ranch woman1 -her start She planted vineyards and orchards, she raised prise live stock, and the Buck Ingham place be came one of the famous farms of tbe Golden State. Mrs.

Buckingham's life became pleas ant and fortunate, as every plucky, Intelligent', woman's deserves to be. She Urt. Shepherd. made trips to Europe and to eastern cities and elsewhere, she entertained and. distinguished guests at her home and was able to shape ber life at Will.

Then there Is that other California woman, Theodoaia Burr Shepherd, now known to every floriculturist in civilisation as a hybrldlser of blossoms and orlgtnator i new flowers. Scarcely outside of dreams in which flowers of unearthly beauty float before the vision can one behold blooma as beautiful and Wonderful as those reared by the namesake of Aaron Burr's ill fated daaghter, At ventura-by-Uie-Sea is -tno home of Mi. Shepherd. The bios soms about ber home at Ventura are so wonderful, so abundant and so fragrant that, they ju-e fairly overwhelming to the sense, and the sight of them makes the heart ache because no human words can describe their beauty, The begonia is Mrs. Shepherd's favorite flower, and she has one begonia plant fifteen feet high.

-It has sometimes ISO clusters of blossoms upon It, This Is the splendid "Marjorie Paw? begonia, originated by Mrs. Shepherd herselt there in her ilry queen garden at Ventura-by-the 7 I WQMEj Who TTKSodbsick L-l Do Things Burr is a luxury which stifles, and aB wom en cannot be classified as sainted dolls. and they can't all live a painted lire. nv j-if if wise man discriminates 'and the wisest man of all thanks heaven that he has a wife with brains and some interest In life beyond gossip, flirtation and clothes. Have Nie 8treet Clothes.

And speaking of the latter, I have been looking at several very pretty summer outfits recently, and It strikes me that the average woman pays too much attention to her evening clothes and too little to what she wear on the street To my mind daytime clothes are a great deal important than -evening ones. If your evening gown is a little mussed people will not discover It half so soon as in the -case of a Ts sim drinks der the brilliant i act rays of the sun Crisp white costumes, and several of them, are "necessary above everything else. No number of slk or veiling dresses will take their At Newport, tor instance and New port certainly sets the style white is simply all At the tennis meeU and other' functions where the smart set congregates the woman guilty of wearing a dark gown is the exception. By "dark gown" I mean anything fussed up, anything of silk or wool. A wire meshed linen trlmmsjd witn enective lace ana worn with a lace hat trimmed with red roses and a parasol to match was one of the most stunning costumes seen there, last year.

Now and then a dotted batiste Is modi- nea wiin a inao or a paie yenosr si lp i and has both hat and parasol to corref spond, but everywhere one sees the Jaunty little coat and skirt of white linen, worn, with white canvas shoes, a white linen hat trimmed white wings and a white coaching parasol. -This year the linen suits are not trimmed bo heavily with lace as for merly. They aim at a simple effect of straps 'or embroidery. One of the smartest costumes I have ever seen was of white linen, TJie Jacket with buttonhole embroidery all over It had little three-quarter sleeves edged with! The wonderful poppy known to the trade as the "Goldofi West" is another of Mrs. Shepherd's contributions to the flower world.

It Is a descendant, obtained by careful cross pollenlzatlon, of the daasllng yellow California wUd Poppy. Mrs. Shepherd's new "Golden West'' poppy has a maltese eross of deep orange at the base of the petals, in the heart ot the flower. Several giant double petunias have also been added to the kingdom of blossoms, by the woman originator' of new flowers. She has really made the plain old petunia a thing of beauty.

One of Mrs. Shepherd's most illustrious successes has been achieved with the common cosmos. She took It a rather small, fringed flower about two Inches across. She selected fine specimens, crossed the pollen of one upon the pistil of another, tended the plants and watched results patiently, till now she has developed thirty-five permanent varieties from three original ones. She has Increased the slse of the blossoms till they measure In soma cases seven Inches across.

Mrs. Shepherd has a whole field full of cosmos of different kinds. She has changed not only the colors of this familiar nower, but. also the configuration of the petals, ieaualng those of one to be plain, another ruffled, while others still are laid in strange folds. At first, this remarkable floriculturist had no thought of fame or gain from her gardening, Went at It through pure love of flowers and for recreation.

She Is a native of Iowa, and her father, Augustus Hall, was a member of congress. She was married to a young Iowa lawyer, Mr. William Edgar Shepherd. In 187S, oiwfccount ot 111 health, she went to California. Her husband went with her, and they established themselves In a cottage at Ventura.

The marvelous floral richess of Cali fornia Impressed Mrs. Shepherd as It Impressed all newcomers. She de termined to have a garden of her own. There was health, there was Joy In cultivating Mrs. Shepherd spent her mornings at work in the garden.

She declares that floriculture, seed raising and the developing of new" plants constitute an admirable occupation for women who have their living to earn. She thinks It ought to be a "morning occupation. She -herself appeared to take naturally to the hybridising of flowers and to originating new varieties. s' fc" Her method in developing a new flower is to "out out." In ranchman's parlance, the particular plant that shows a sport blossom, different from others of the same species. This she fosters with the utmost care.

When "the flower goes gether with the" filling of 'the lungs, form a splendid dally exercise. Many children eat far too rapidly, bolting their food almost without chewing. This is an unhealthful and un-pleasing habit that should never be permitted. Teach children -to masticate their food properly, for it Is a vital nweHslty to do so. Miss Jiary a stenographer, went to Cripple Creek ten years ago to better her Tturn .1, na not only re-cclvcd -li'sh i ir dicta a In our to A LOVELY FROCK OF MOUS-8ELINE OE 80IE.

The frock in. the out to of spotted white moussellne de sole. Tbe skirt Is encircled with broad bands of. Irish guipure and frothed between these and about the bottom with Valenciennes lace. The bodice Is almost entirely covered with' Irish lace arranged bertha style over the shoulders.

A pretty cravat ot lace and satin ribbon dec orates the bodice front The sleeves are of lace overlaid with Both bat and sunshade are of plain whit moussellne, SILK COV.X ing wearing one costume all day, and no "social" fuss and feathers at all it the beat, results are to be obtained. i''41 1 MARX GOULD ITTLE. A SUBSTITUTE FOR A LANTERN. If you want a lantern and have not one, make a substitute with a candle and a paper bag. Light the candle and draw over it a paper, bag which' you 'have, blown up Just as you used to years ago when you "popped" bags to make your elders Jump, Gather the bug's opening round the lower end of the candle, and you will find that you have constructed a useful temporary lantern.

and, however slight they may be, you had better mnke some effort to get rid of them. Europe has an excess of women. Every other continent, so far as known, has an excess of men. Miss Caroline Lewis is superintendent Of Bryn Slawr college gardens and grounds. There are rio ol 1 maids any more.

For twenty yenrs the marrb-ible es-e f-r 1- i -1 vo- i i A -r' mt a va.ui have the remedy In their own hands. It to plenty of fresh, air, thin clothing and a light diet I sometimes think, though, there Is something In Maria Antoinette's remark -thati nerves are the malady of the 'happy. Certainly the woman who works has no to waste on nervousness, and It she Is really breaking down, let her try the outdoor sleeping plan, and in no time she will be ber cheerful brisk self again, Dressing Dolls For a At this tune of tbe year many women find employment dressing dolls A to 1 HOW THE SUMMER GIRL MAY GO CAMPING. i M' EN generally discover every good thing first and- women follow on after as fast as their Jack of knowledge, and dread ot Mrs. Grundy penult Men discovered the delights of summer camping In forest i and by stream, away from an thf onoomfor-table reetralnU in which dvillsatlon has prisoned the natural wild tnan.

Men deserted the fashionable summer resort, and tbe girls were left lamenting. Not long, though. The girl considered tbe situation and said: "It it's so much fun golnr camping. Tm going camping Summer camps exclusively for the woman sex have become almost common in some states. In Vermont and New Hampshire abandoned farmhouses have been converted Into' camp homes.

Tbe I farmhouse Is merely tbe headquarters of the campers.TV constitutes their dining room and kitchen and their refuge on rainy The true camp era sleep In tents, not under In pine forest districts, If the" damp can be so near the woods that fresh twigs pan be gathered tor beds, so-much the better. First a rubber blanket upon theground, then a thick layer ot the pine tVigs, In place ot the conventional with blankets for cool nights, and thetown dweller sleeps in such slumber as. nobody but a child can en-Joy In the dty. There are wealthy' society' women who take what they call the tent rest Slipping off altogether the ar tlflclal life, of tbe fashionable woman, they take not even a looking glass, with them to the wilds in which they appear They do their own cooking, so 'tis said though that sounds. too good to be true.

They braid their hair down the back like a little girl, wear very short skirts and no Their tood Is of the simplest ot the cure is that they shall write no. letters, scarce ly even talk tor two weeks. If one can Imagine anything lrt form be ing silent so "The majority of women wear themselves out talking" a doctor once said to -a under his fart for nerve Vr 'XVfjv'V i (' For the woman" whose tongue has reduced her to a state nervous pros tration the solitary rest cure In ths summer woods to salvation, but all the sex do not need so strleta regimen. The majority of them are Just those nice, wholesome, sensible, middle class women and girls who are the flower of their sex and the salt Of the earth. To these the gregarious camp affords most pleasure and benefit sleeping in tents, eating In a common dining room and spending the rest of the time outdoors walking, cycling, golfing, boating and bathing.

The best way is to have a permanent camp leased from year to year. If there Is no house suitable for the headquarters a big board shanty may be built cheaply. The women who most need the summer outing-are the ones who work all the rest of the year, many of them earning money for themselves and others. For- the- woman teacher, the stenographer, clerk or, bookkeeper, the were a number of women, nurses -and others." One ot the ladies was Admiral Rojestvensky's niece. i Salt and vinegar make an excellent solution for cleaning bedroom water bottles or wlna decanters.

The 120 girl homesteaders of Bone-stee S. are going to make the young men who desired to be accepted as their husbands work their farms a year for nothing before they decide on who shall be accepted. There are ien who wlHh to marry the 123 fir' with -ms. i rf dress for the day In some loose negligee. After this she would return to the bal cony which had been remade, and lie.

there watching tbe sea until a substantial breakfast was brought at JO. The day she- spent In and embroidering and In writing notes. She recovered her strength and appetite, and from fitful sleep she managed to rest soundly without a single awakening sometimes for I ten hours at a stretch. When she returned to town, sleeping in a bedroom waa positive tor ture to ber until the cold weather recon ciled her to it People who jure afflicted with nerves flower different from either of tbe originals. Mrs.

Shepherd, fascinated beautiful task, thought little ot tbe out side world till at length the outside world came to her. People -desired seeds and cuttings from her. garden, and presently a flourishing trade with professional floriculturists and seedsmen developed. She sent out new: varieties, of begonias, nasturtiums, pop-, plea, cosmos and other flowers. Women who cultivate from the seed In their pretty gardens in the east the wonderful yellow California poppy and other exquisite flowers from the Pacific coast will be interested to know that this quiet, Indefatigable woman floriculturist was the first person to grow flower seed for tbe eastern states' Her seeds have found their way throughout niurope.

sue is the pioneer flower seed grower of California. Mrs. Shepherd also Writes and lectures on her favorite topics. UULUAN, GRAY. She bought off the man of her father's choice with 1200,000, married him and left him at the church door.

Be cheerful over your work and bs thankful you have if to do. Do you know remarked a young dude, "a tella mistook me for a waiter tonight? Of course he apologised." "Indeed! said she politely "To you or to the waiter?" r. The war between Japan and Russia Is the first In which women have ever been present at an actual naval en-gagement On the Rulrn ahl? la f.ia tat cf tr.a i ct i -XC ft 1 i 4 Very smart Is the gown Of mode silk With Its full skirt trimmed with a waved design of mode and white braid. The little Jacket Is shirred several rows above the walsi line and has a notched collar of batiste, embroidery. The elbow sleeves have a turned back cuff of this embroidery over frills of lace.

I MRS. LLOYD CARPENTER GRISCOM. 4 wife of the brilliant young American minister to Jaoan was Miss Elisabeth Duer Bronson of New York. Bhe was married to Mr. Griscom while he was minister to Persia and spent ber honeymoon in that far land.

Tokyo the Jap ladles Ilka young Mrs. Griscojn very much, as also do the ladles of the foreign diplomatic set Her tacf and accomplishments In the social circle have ably seconded Minister Griscom's diplomatic wisdom and courtesy In strengthening cordial relations between Japan and the United States, r- summer camp will be recreation and a delightful novelty. It would be easy for women to put their spare money together and get the camp. A'cook and a man to do the heavy work of the camp could be hired, so as to leave the camper' time free. A fixed sum per week, and it need not be very great-can be fixed to bo paid by each one while she Is at the camp.

The girls can go in relays from June till October, arranging the time of each according to convenience. v. y' 4" -Even two weeks of such camp life would work wonders for the' average city woman. It must be understood that there shall be only the simplest dress In this country was. In .1890, In each 10,000 inhabitants there were 242 more men than By 1900 this excess had decreased to 216 In 10.000.

Never have anything to do with the hopeless except to do all In your power to help them to be hopeful again. An English critic says of Miss Mary Cassatt the Philadelphia artist, "With the single exception of Berths Morlsot, Miss Cassatt is perhaps the most virile woman painter the woi' i 1 i seen." However gw.l you I j- ITEMS OF INTEREST TO WOMEN. tions, but with shrewd business foresight Invested in mines. Being on the ground where she could Investigate for herself, she was able to do this. Miss O'Bryan is now worth $225,000 and to president of several mining companies.

Our life is poor Indeed If bounded by own personal wants and fancied requirements. i-' A curious case occurred" recently in Italy. A fortune of 1800,000 was left his daughter by a man named, Giratl on condition that she marry a suitor whom be specified. But Miss Clr-Btl V8i almdy In l-jvo with another. ong titled-British women who set hops on their' own account there iany who asslut the- Scottish and i rxasants to start Industries and i them, in disposing of their owning for' health Is advocated by rnmn professor of gymnastics.

He tains that deep yawning, prac-! a re gular exercise. Is tho cheap- 1 road to porfoot health. of tho l.n TiPtbonr-s and arns which ne-' -1 to ft.