Pittsburgh Post-Gazette from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania • Page 32

32 POST-GAZETTE: Nov. 3, 1978 Alice Paul's ERA Efforts Recalled Sharon Gless in one of 30 costumes Burton Miller designed for her for "The Immigrants," a four-hour television production coming up. One 'Disaster' After Another By GRACE PROVEN Post-0ette Staff Writer In Hollywood, they call Burton Miller the "disaster designer," be-cause he did the costumes for such films as "Earthquake" and "Air- port 77." Miller, one of our boys who made it, is hardly a disaster at his craft The Taylor Allderdice graduate and ex-drama student at Carnegie-. Mellon University has just used $100,000 of MCA TVUniversal's money to create 1,000 costumes for female stars and extras in "The Immigrants," a four-hour prime-, time television presentation. The two-part program will air here 24 and 25.

Miller has his light moments, too. Like fitting Walter Matthau in a negligee and babushka for a scene in "House Calls." When he was dressed for his fe- By JANE SHAW Pott-Gnettt Stsft WrHef "If Alice Paul were around today, ERA would not have any trouble getting through." Lillian Clark was reminiscing about the years she spent in Washington, D.C., working closely with the late Miss Paul, a pioneer of (he women's movement who helped lead the fight for women's suffrage, founded the National Women's Party and in 1923 drafted the first women's equal rights amendment "She fought for equal rights from the time she was 17 until her death last year at 92," Miss Gark added. Miss Clark, of Natrona Heights went to Washington to work for the federal Eovernment during World War II. She iter formed an editorial and public relations firm and a secretarial service. It was in the '50s and '60s she worked so closely with Miss Paul and with Emma Guffey Miller, long-time Democratic national committeewoman for Pennsylvania.

"They were the last of the grand dames," Miss Clark pointed out. "These were nice, charming, social women. "I lobbied for them, talked to con- gressmen and senators for them, arranged receptions and parties for political candidates for them. "In the '60s I lived lust two blocks from Miss Paul. She called me at 3 o'clock in the morning once to ask me if I had seen a certain senator.

When I told her 'not yet, but I've talked to him on the she said, 'I want you to go there in person and talk with "That's the way she was. She would lay the groundwork and then ask someone to follow up." "Alice Paul didn't demand," Miss Clark explained. "She used charm. She was very peaceful, very charming. She would talk to all the congressmen and senators.

They all had respect for her. They adored her. ''She knew how everybody was going to vote even before they did." In an interview several months before her death Miss Paul said that the adoption in 1920 of the 19th amendment guaranteeing women the right to vote was the high point of her life. "But it was not the victory that she had visualized," Miss Clark pointed out, "because it really meant nothing as far as equality for women. It gave them the vote, but it didn't give them opportunity.

It just doubled the number of male masquerade, Matthau asked, "Which way to the Golda Meir look-alike contest?" "For disasters," Miller said in a Los Angeles-to-Pittsburgh telephone conversation, "you have to nave seven or eight copies of each costume-one wet, one dry, one shredded. "I always have three or four duplicates for Lee Majors in Million Man' for the fire and brimstone he and his stunt men go through." Miller now is doing costumes for "Airport 79" and "Concorde" for both men and women. "I like to do the whole picture if I can," he said. One of his favorite actresses is Shirley Shirley Jones," he added. "We've not worked a lot together.

I did her costumes for 'Evening in and she's asked to have me assigned to two more things she's doing." For period films, Miller has difficulty finding "those wonderful fabrics they used then." He has gone so far as to search them out in thrift shops, ripping apart the clothes to use the fabric in costumes. "I got to Hollywood doing stage work, he said. He gave up a career in New York as a designer of contemporary clothes that sold in such prestigious stores as Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman-Marcus and Bonwit Teller. He has no regrets. "Social history," he said, "has a lot to do with fashion.

Designers haven't yet found a silhouette for our particular era. We're not sure where our country stands, and they (the designers) have gone back now to try to recapture the ro-. mance of the past." Miller left Pittsburgh about 1950 to study at New York's Parsons School of Design. Until then, he lived on Dithridge Street "And I always come back," he said. ('J'l 4 pit S3 votes.

Women didn't stick together. They voted the way their husbands, their fathers or their brothers were voting. Women for too long had been used to thinking their place was in the kitchen." "In the '60s Miss Paul insisted that women be included in the civil rights legislation, but some legislators felt this would jeopardize that legislation. It broke her neart in 1964 when women were not included," Miss Clark recalled. Miss Paul, daughter of a well-to-do Quaker family, was born in Moores-town, N.J.

She attended Swarthmore College and earned a master's and doctorate at the University of Pennsylvania. In the 1920s she earned three law degrees. It was while doing graduate work in England that she joined the British suffragettes and began to participate in radical feminist activity. She was jailed three times in Britain. "Miss Paul saw the ERA as a necessary amendment to guarantee equal rights, equal pay and equal opportunity to women," Miss Clark emphsized.

Miss Clark, who returned to Natrona Heights in 1967, is still a member of the National Women's Party and an active participant in lobbying in Washington for the ERA and for the ERA extension passed recently. A poster produced by the Council for Women's Rights in Pittsburgh featuring a photograph of Alice Paul prompted Miss Clark to recall those exciting years in Washington with Miss Paul. "The poster is being sold to raise funds for ERA. I think Miss Paul would be pleased by that," she commented. III Is Miss Gless in another Miller costume, as she ages 20 years during the two-part BURTON MILLER presentation 4UkiCw-.

Woman Ready to Give Away Unborn Baby Ann Landers Dear Ann: I am 23 years old and pregnant with our first child. My husband and I are worried about something. We hope you can help us. Two couples we know have retarded children. One of the women is 40 years old.

She has spent all of her married life caring for her retarded child. Both couples are tied down completely. Sitters are hard to find and harder to keep. Relatives are "not Dear Ann: I am a 44-year-old widow who has been going with a fine man two years my senior. He lost his wife three years ago and has a 17-year-old daughter.

I am extremely fond of this man and he says he loves me and wants to be married "eventually" but he cannot take me out in public because his daughter feels it would be disrespectful to her mother's memory for me? Shades Of Grey Dear Shades: You say you've been "going with" this man for two years but it sounds as if you've been staying home with him. A man who takes orders from a 17-year-old daughter doesn't sound like a red hot prospect for marriage. Tell him you are coming out of hiding or goodbye and good luck. prevent retardation by adequate prenatal care and proper nutrition of the pregnant woman. Only five percent of retarded babies will require round-the-clock care outside of the home.

The other 95 percent can lead healthy, happy lives in their own homes. Retarded children often bring to their parents and brothers and sisters an understanding and acceptance of human differences, and a sharing of a common family problem that families without a handicapped child never experience or appreciate. If parents psychologically reject a handicapped baby, it is better for the infant if he is placed with a family that can give him the love and acceptance he needs to overcome his disability. State and local agencies will work with the parents at no charge to find a home for the babv. f'jJK" 1 mmlJJ i lr' swers.

Worried in The Midwest Dear Worried: I was stunned by your letter (never had one like it) a normal 23-vear-old pregnant woman asking if someone will take her baby off her if it isn't "right." I called Don Moss, Executive Director for the Illinois Association for Retarded Citizens, for information. Mr. Moss tells me that only three percent of all babies are diagnosed as mentally retarded and the incidence is decreasing because parents are taking steps to available." Both the mothers and (a-. thers are often worn out from "coping." The question we are asking is this: If. I should give birth to a baby that isn't can I give it away? Are there places that will take such a child immediately after birth? Would it be cared for properly? Is such care expensive if we have to pay? You are the only one we can turn to for the an- TIP An Idea Whose Time Has Come? Sylvia Porter Some labor leaders fear it is a hidden way to keep labor's share of the nation's wealth from rising, fear that wage restraint wouldn't be matched by a slowdown in prices.

Other administration officials think enforcing TIP would be a nightmare. likely to happen? As the nation's dread of inflation intensifies and the traditional inflation-fighting methods (credit restraint, government spending cuts, slashing budget deficits, nigher interest rates) undermine the expansion (or kill it) TIP (carrot, stick or both) will get a try in some form. Its time has come. Monday: Trade protection, weak dollar, spur spiral STUEBGENPost'Gazette Lillian Gark admires poster picturing Alice Paul. autograph party The "real wage insurance" program which Presi-' dent Carter has asked Congress to approve in its 1979 session is a form of "Tax Incomes Policy," or "TIP" among the few truly innovative anti-inflation concepts to emerge in the United States in years.

Under Carter's version, a worker who had accepted the wage-benefit guideline of an annual increase of 7 percent or less and then had been hit by an annual rise in the cost of living of more than this limit would receive a "tax rebate" to make up the difference be-: tween his wage hike and the inflation hike. To illustrate, say you earn $20,000 a year and you get a pay-benefit increase in 1979 of $1,400 or 7 per-; cent Then, say the consumer price index next year jumps 10 percent. You would receive a check for $600 from the IRS (3 percent of your base pay and equal to the difference between your pay increase ana your cost of living increase). Your total pay boost would come to $2,000 or 10 percent and you would have been "insured" against '79's inflation. But as Congress debates Carter's "wage insur-; ance" proposal, you may be certain it will probe into the whole concept of a Tax Incomes Policy.

And what I may emerge at the end may be a whole new program of curbing inflation. Thus, this Q. A. to guide you now: Q. Just what is 'Its full name is Tax-based Incomes Policy and it would use tax rebates as a "carrot" to encourage unions and businesses to moderate wage-price in-; creases or would slap on tax increases as a "stick" to punish them if their actions add to inflation.

The scheme rests on a principle well known to psychologists: you can alter people's actions by re-. warding their desirable behavior and by punishing their bad. And its rationale is that if the tax system can be used for such desirable goals as spurring business spending on new plants and equipment of encouraging insulation of homes, why can't it be used to combat Evil No. 1 inflation? It first came to my attention back in 1971 when Dr. Henry Wallich, then of Yale University, and now a governor of the Federal Reserve Board, told me that Ee and an associate, Sidney Weintraub of the University of Pennsylvania, had developed the program.

The by Pat Foy (Pat Foy is the proprietor of the Hyeholde Restaurant in Moon Township, one of the Wallich-Weintraub concept favored the stick or penalty approach. Much more recently, Arthur Okun, Brookings Institution economist and former chairman of the Council of Economic Advisers, developed a version of TIP favoring the carrot approach. The Okun version of a tax rebate to those who obey guidelines is the one Carter adopted. Q. What are some arguments in favor of a TIP concept? In today's atmosphere of steep inflation and a deep inflation psychology, everyone tries to look out for me first Costs are passed along to ultimate consumers; the free market provides little incentive for anyone, labor or business, to keep wages and prices under a lid and put the nation's overall economic wel-.

fare first A version of TIP might provide precisely the prod needed. ''Nobody says TIP is easy, lovely or elegant," Okun told my Washington associate, Brooke Shearer. 'The question is: is it manageable?" Okun thinks it is and so Congress well may conclude too. What's more, Okun continued, "there's not a lot of dialogue in this town really confronting these issues. There's just a lot of whistling in the dark." Talking TIP is one way to force more courageous thinking about beating inflation.

Q. What are some arguments against TIP? A common criticism of penalty plans (the stick) is that unions still will demand and firms will pay increased wages above the guidelines, and the business simply will pass along their penalty taxes to their customers, thereby fueling more Inflation. Another fear is that as a TIP proposal made its way through Congress, it would be transformed through legislative tinkering into a system of wage-price controls. last of the great country inns and winner of Miking, priftu.v kr (radius. sfffi trtt, Iwnry bm-irt, (iarilfitins.

mi (mtSwr tttdn pliln Jit-lug Meet Eliot Wigginton editor of the Foxfire books Friday, November 3, 12 to 1:30 p.m. it- i ravel nouaay magazine a cuvcicu Award of Excellence for 1978-1979.) One of the more disheartening experiences in life is to come away from a restaurant with a bad taste in your mouth especially if you had great expectations for a pleasurable repast. The reasons for your displeasure could be any of several service, food quality, atmosphere, wine list, your own disposition and so on. What may al-' leviate your negative feelings is a better understanding of how a restaurant operates. Such factors as (i) the time of day or the day of the week, you visit the restaurant (2) how many are in your party (most restaurants can't be expected to serve up a score of made-to-order meals on a moment's notice) and what type of food is the restaurant's specialty.

In future Grapevines, I will address myself further to the subject of adjusting your expectations re dining out to the realities of what your restaurant is capable of. III feftftrj NEW For the COLLECTOR 350 limited edition plates and bells 'Figurines by Hummel Keene Rockwell STORE HOURS: We're delighted to welcome this remarkable man who is visiting Pittsburgh to receive an honorary degree from Duquesne University. His unique contributions are recognized by a wide 'audience of Foxfire readers who find in these manuals of "plain a humane and practical approach to today's living. Wigginton, who began Foxfire as a teaching project in 1966, still teaches at the Appalachian high school in Georgia where it all began. Foxfire 4.

his latest volume, deals with fiddle making," gardening, berry buckets, sassafras tea and other affairs of plain living. Foxfire 4. 5.95. Volumes 1, 2 and 3 also available. Books, seventh floor Downtown" 9:30 to 5:30 SATURDAY 9:30 to 3 Irving a nit man JIWELEI 304 CLARK BLDQ.

Sebastian Antiques "TRIMMING THE TREE" A First Edition High Relief 1976 Pewter Christmas Plate From Hudson Fins Ptwtef your invited to an OPEN HOUSE Sunday, Nov. 3, 1 to 5 pm Register for $50 gift certificate to bo drown Oec. 16 366 S. Washington McMurray 9413750 10-5 Wed. 4 Frl.

'til 9 THIRD FLOOR, PITTSBURGH Jill mXUi VMKfl nome's To place an ad like never before The Hyeholde Restaurant serves luncheon and dinner Monday through Friday dinner only on Saturday, For reservations and directions, call 264 31 16. call 263-1201.