The Pittsburgh Post from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania • Page 33

.1 SUNDAY MORNING, THE PITTSBURGH POST. NOVEMBER 23, 1908 Five EARTH PLODDER OF EARTH EARTHY AT AERO CLUB MEETING EW YORK, Nov. 14. President-elect Taft. among other distinctions, will "ain.

when he is Inaugurated, A Band of Enthusiasts Who Expect Soon to Dominate the Blue Empyrean Clash Among Friends Only an Incident; the wind blows a start may be mate 12-foot propeller at the forward end of the platform hanging from the cigar-shaped balloon has a speed of 450 revolutions a minute. Count Zeppelin's lost dirigible had a length of 435 feet and could carry 25 passengers. His new one is also large. "I expect to see the dirigible balloon soon In common use for sport," concluded this member. "Santos-Dumont has made flights near Paris with a dirigible so small that on descending- he can fold up his balloon and motor and walk home with the outfit under his arm." Also in the ante-room and disposed to be friendly with the earth plodder was Leo Stevens, an aeronautic expert of the Aero club.

He has for many years been making ascensions 1ft racing and passenger balloons of the free and non-dirigible type. Stevens is about the height of Santos-Dumont, say 5 feet 3 inches, but not of the dainty build of the Brazilian who has done so much for French aeronautics. Instead Stevens sug-geets a lightweight boxer in the pink of condition by his lithe, quick motions, but he has the nervous, intelligent face of a close student. He seemed about 30 years oid. Stevens couldn't remember how many ascensions he has made, but he knew he has taken up 77 passengers this season on balloon trips.

He has four balloons in commission and after the meeting left for Milwaukee on a midnight train to make another aerial voyage. An aspect of aviation always before the earth plodder when he has considered the subject was utterly Ignored by the assembled aeronauts. Frankly, It is the liability through some mishap to be injured cr killed. He knew that Post had been In serious danger through an accident to his balloqn in the Berlin race, while there sat the optimistic Israel Lud-IjOw, quite oblivious to the close call he had in Florida, explaining that comparatively the increasing degrees of joy In aerial flight were successively the captive" balloon, the free voyage, the dirigible and the aeroplane. One must take pre-" cautions the plodder overheard Stevens explaining the safest sort of escape valve' cord but with the hopeful conquerors of the air whatever may occur is In the-day's work.

Monument For Self ridge. The only allusions to any flight not a success were a resolution to raise money for a suitable monument in Arlington cemetery on the grave of Lieutenant T. E. Self ridge, the Aero club member killed in the accident with Orville Wright at Fort Myer, and a vote of thanks to all persons who have during the, season extended help to members when in danger on trips. "There Is no more risk with flying machines in their present development than In ballooning," said the chatty member.

"There Is practically no risk on a free balloon, barring parachutes. Why, Samuel A. King, of Philadelphia, who began his ascensions In 1851, when the gas obtainable was not as reliable as now and the balloon construction not so good, is hearty and hale at 80 years after 460 aerial trips. He brought into use the drag rope." "Yes, I know," butted in the plodder. "That holds the "Quite the contrary," was the chllllnsr response.

"The chief use of the hanging rope is to lighten the balloon by dimin- ishing the weight on contact with the earth, which makes the balloon more, buoyant and steady while seeking a place to land." After the meeting the regulars and opposition were on good terms again. That night the earth plodder dreamed he had a fall from a dirigible after a collision with the Flatlron building roof. nautic cup race at Berlin, In which he was pilot, became president in place of Cortlandt Field Bishop, now residing at Paris. Bishop wrote that from now on he thought the Aero club should be active In promoting other forms of aviation besides ballooning. Also that a Wright aeroplane was to be sent over for the i use of Aero club members.

Augustus Post, re-elected as secretary, and A. Holland Forbes, also pilots of American balloons at Berlin, seemed the leaders of the regulars. Lee. S. Burridge explained the cause of the opposition, while Raphael J.

Moses, who looks like General Sickles. was1 a free lance who talked for the joy of stirring things up. Burridge said the apathy of the Aero club in not leasing Morris park after he, as one of its grounds committee, had found that this could be done, was a proof that its affairs were controlled by two or three men; This state of things had forced Alan R. Hawley and other Aero club members with some outsiders to form the Aeronautic Club of America to take Morris park as an educational and experimental ground, "I was adverse to the Aero club going into a scheme that called for two classes of members for one thing," explained Secretary Post. To disprove the charge of apathy he read from President Bishop's report these things the Aero club has done during the last year: What the Club Has Accomplished.

Conducted St. Louis Gordon Bennett balloon race In conjunction with the Aero Club of St. Louis and the first motor wee In the world. TnsteEed vn aeronautic exhibition at the Jamertowa Exposition In the first building ever devoted to that purpose. Held its thlM annual exhibition at the Automobile show.

mamhoratiin In the Aero B.n nonoraij1 Club of America. They are limited to 10 and include also by virtue of their office Governor Hughes and Mayor MeClellan. There one vacancy, as tne otners are Count Henri de la Vaulx, Lieutenant P. Lahm. TJ.

S. James Gordon Bennett, OrvlUe and Wilbur Wright and Octave Chanute. The three latter -were raised by a standing vote from active to the honorary rank at the annual meeting of the Aero club on November 2. A plodder of the earth earthy who attended found the proceedings 4 of the aerial sharps interesting. The club has 2S0 active and the 60 or so at the meeting uncomfortably crowded the club room, which is of uie sise ox mo iruni yauvr ui an uroi- nary Manhattan brownstone front but is on the top floor of an office building in East Forty-second street.

One might step rrom tne wmaow into an airship with much ease. As a group the majority were smooth shaven and athletic looking, the others of the usual professional or business types met at city meetings. Two or three were plainly mechanics in their best clothes. The debating was In a haze of tobacco smoke, but each speaker expressed without any fog the ideas that differed from the ideas of everyone else. The one unanimity of opinion wag that the world is on the brink of the time when flying with aeroplanes and dirigible balloons will be a common mode of travel.

Aero Club Election. There was an election with for the first time an opposition ticket, but the regulars won by 89 votes to 31, many proxies being voted. As a result J. C. McCoy, then on.

his way back from the Bennett aero gation of the air and to have special lectures on topics of timely interest. Inasmuch as the number of American delegates to the international federation is determined by the amount of gas used for balloon purposes during the year, the club will continue to keep official record of all balloon ascensions made, irrespective of membership. Post also told of various essays in ballooning and aeroplaning to be undertaken by wealthy members of the Aero club as individuals. He had the precise and omnipotent manner of a college lecturer in addressing the club members. The plans as outlined were not sup-portetd by the opposition, who thought It better to join with the Aeronautic club in keeping the Morris park project aa a temporary station while seeking for more extensive grounds.

Lieutenant A. C. Triaca, formerly an officer of the Italian army, and for some years a practical automobillst and aeronaut hereabouts, made some caustic remarks in opposition, although not an Aero club member. Caustic Words From Italian. "Why seek to have the best aeronautical library in the country?" asked Triaca.

"There are many such books in the club room now, but they are unread. There Is too much exploitation of individual plans regarding aviation. The Aero club is not doing enovigh -as an organization to help the inventor or the professional operator. I read the names of many millionaires on the membership list, but I do not see even a $10 prize offered by one of them for. this object Mrs.

Taft's Taste In Clothes What Women' Are, Doing factory laws; Oklahoma, compulsory education law and the age of consent fixed at 18 years; Utah, a law compelling parents and guardians to educate deaf mute and blind children either in school or at home, also a law establishing Juvenile courts; District of Columbia, a child labor law; New York, child labor law improved; California, Improved laws re-guarding Juvenile courts, also a law to punish husbands who abandon their wives without cause or. neglect their children; Iowa, improved juvenile court laws and the opening of hospitals for unfortunate women and children; Pennsylvania, amending th law for compulsory education, adding a department of home economics and enlarging the girls' dormitory at the State college. In Maryland, the town of Still Pond has granted municipal suffrage to women and two women directors have been appointed by the governor to the board of the boys Modish Evening Gowns the Acme of the i. Mil Held its second annual dinner at the St. Regis Hotel.

Founded through its members new aero clubs of Pittsfleld. North Adams, Boston, Canton. Milwaukee, St. Louis, Springfield, Denver, Los Angeles, Hartford and Seattle. G.

H. Curtiss, member, won the "Scientific American" trophy. Captain Thomas S. Baldwin, member, constructed and delivered the first dirigible ever owned by the United States Government (the tenth successful dirigible construction by him). Orville Wright, member, made his first unprecedented flights In Washington.

(The Aero club, which published the first records of the Wright flights at Dayton, through its representatives witnessed the historic 57-mtnute flight at Fort Myer, kept the only record and was the first to give It to the. world.) Wilbur Wright, member, has In France duplicated the marvelous achievement of his brother in this country. The Red Wing. White Wing, June Bug and Silver Dart balloons were built by members of the club. The club -represented America in the international Aeronautic Federation in London.

The club represented America in the Gordon Bennett race at Berlin by three pilots of the club. Through the courtesy of G. H. Curtiss the club has aeroplane trial grounds and motors at Hammondsport. Through the co-operation of the United States signal corps trial grounds are offered the club at Fort Myer, Fort Omaha and West Point, and a further offer of grounds has been courteously tendered through the Long Island Motor parkway.

Through the zealous and able representation of the club in Europe, its reputation as an active Influence in the world of aeronautics has been immeasurably varied and established. It may be roted also that all the European aeronauts are following the American type of construction, both in motor balloons and in aeroplanes. Secretary Post added that In continuing the active work thus Inaugurated, the Aero club has these alms in view: To secure extensive grounds for motor ballooning and aeroplaning, with hydrogen gas facilities, machine shops and suitable buildings for storage, within easy distance of the city. To avails Itself of suitable locations 'for ballooning at a dtstance from the sea. To acquire the best aeronautic library in the country.

To hold its fourth annual aeronautical exhibition. To hold its third annual banquet To hold the second contest for the "Scientific American" trophy and the contest for the Lahm cup and to inaugurate new prises for competition: to sanction races; to formulate rules and laws for the navi EVENING CLOAKS OF VELVET, with the long slender point of violet set into its back is graceful if a trifle odd, and the importer who shows it shows too a wonderful cloak of rose satin embroidered in dull silver and gray and with touches of chinchilla at throat and sleeves. There, too, we saw the white against It." Words strange to the earth plodder were bandied to and fro as fast as Ja tennis ball. This- is a partial glossary of such terms: "Acronef," adopted by the International congress at London as the technical for all "heavier than air" flying machines. "Aerostat," a free balloon, and "aeronat." a dirigible balloon, both used on the same authority and coined to promote universal clearness of speech on aeronautics.

An aeroplane consists of surfaces or aero curves, the propelling shafts being set horizontally. On the helicopter they are arranged vertically. Orthopters are the flapping wings type. These are all "heavier than air" machines. An aeronaut is the navigator of the air in a balloon, or otherwise; if licensed by an aero club he a pilot.

Aviator is a form of flying machine, not the navigator. Aviation is the art of flying and aerodrome the grounds or park from, which a machine or balloon takes flight. Monoplane is a flying machine with one aero curve and a biplane has two. Octave Ghanute, a French civil engineer residing at Chicago and elected to honorary membership of the Aero club at the meeting, is the inventor of the biplane type of aeroplane which, with modifications, is ueed by the Wrights and Fanman. Ballooning Vs.

Aeroplaning. Advocates of the "heavier than air" types at the meeting often interjected remarks that the Aero club is doing more for ballooning than to promote interest in flying machines. Jsrael Ludlow, a six-footer who is paralyzed in his legs from a fall from an aeroplane in Florida two years ago, was an urgent speaker for the flying machine. "The American models lead the world," said he, "and in a few years to fly will be an. ordinary method of travel." Alan R.

Hawley, a prize winner in the Bennett cup race of suggested that in selecting grounds the Aero club should remember that presently it should need a station and garage for ships of the International air line. This was not taken as a joke. The applause was hearty and earnest. In an anteroom talk a member explained that a dirigible balloon Is equipped with a motor or propeller to move it at will in the air. Many nations are experimenting with them, Germany having ix, France three and England, Russia, Italy, Switzerland, Spain, Belgium and the United States One apiece.

Our dirigible the Government recently bought after satisfactory teats from Captain Thomas S. Baldwin, a pioneer of ballooning in America who has made over 3,0.0 ascensions without meeting with an accident. It will hold two persons, has a gas bag S4 feet long and a diameter of 18 feet. A EMBROIDERED NET AND FUR. in beautiful colorings are made up.

These follow the draped cape lines as a rule, with relieving embroidery at the throat, and for young wearers sweeping capes with high directoire collars and semi-military cord fastenings are very smart and practical This Is not right, for I believe the wealthy man should help the worker in aero- nautics and I also believe in the reverse of this maxtm. Many brains are better than one brain and the Aero club would do 'better to promote united work than to let Individuals obtain all the credit for whatever Is done." There was much discussion of a motion, finally not carried, that an Aero club committee should attend an Aeronautic club meeting in the Morris park clubhouse to pave the way for a joint action regarding grounds. In its course A. M. Herring, who is under contract with the Government to teat his aeroplane fet Fort Myer just as Orville Wright has done, said: "To properly test an aeroplane in the open country I find a level stretch of from three to five square miles necessary, containing as few trees or other obstructions as possible.

It is easy to maintain a flight against a wind resistance of 13 or ro miles an hour, but the problem i to control the aeroplane going down the wind which at once increases to SO miles an hour. On a' tract of these dimensions only may effective experiments be made, for no matter how OF SATIN AND OF FAILLE, WITH satin cloak embroidered in dull gold and inset with Venetian lace, whose design was embroidered over in gold. Faille, ottoman, chiffon brocaded in velvet-rany number of lovely stuffs are used by the cloak makers, and for less costly garments the chiffon broadcloths has never been wealthy. Her money Is' always spent Judiciously. i Mrs.

Taft patronises always the conservative establishments. Good value for the money Is what she looks for first in shopping. She rarely goes into the" cheap stores, except for unimportant articles, which careful women know7 how to buy. During her residence in Washington she has done her 'purchasing mainly in the shops along street When in Cincinnati, she buys there She" has been known to patronize the tailor-in Baltimore who sometimes makes' gowns for Mrs. Roosevelt and Mrs.

Met-calf, and she also patronizes the. Ststers" of St. Rose Industrial school In Washington, who are famous for their handmade French underwear. It Is in her hats that Mrs. Taft Is' somewhat lacking, as she often gets unbecoming ones.

She has not appeared in Washington In large hats, ever; they run In fashion to the English or ing styles. Of gloves she wears a six and a quarter. Mrs. Taft has one falling in wearing her clothes. Her skirts frequently do not "set" well.

Mrs. Taft fand her daughters are both careful buyers. In doing Christmas shopping, they rarely are guilty of purchasing useless trifles." They go about, months before the holiday week, and by the time other Christmas shoppers are beginning to think of buying, their gifts are bought and carefully put awayr-carefully labeled, awaiting the auspicious day. In this respect, Mrs. Taft ia much like Mrs.

Roosevelt, only that Mrs. Roosevelt does much of her gift shop-ping in the jewelT shops, while Mrs. Taft is more apt to look In the department or notion stores. While both Mrs. Roosevelt and Mrs.

Taft frequently visit the shopping districts, one must know them personally to recognize them, so unostentatiously do they go about. Instead of dashing up to a shop In a carriage, they walk briskly along the street, accompanied usually by some favored friend, always choosing the morning hours, when the crowd is not so large. As buyers, Mrs. Roosevelt and Mrs. Taft are unlike, for.

the latter always knows exactly what she wants and can see at a glance how nearly an article can answer her purpose. She needs no advice, except occasionally that of her daughter. Mrs. Roosevelt rather prefers to consult someone else's taste and Judgment. The Taft household Is dominated by the mistress of it, except when the master of It is in it.

As a matter of fact, he does not dominate it then, but only thinks he does. It is only the clever woman who can create that delusion. Mrs. Taft does her own marketing. She has never" had a social secretary nor a housekeeper, nor has she done her household buying over the telephone except In emergency.

The "Merry Widow99 By Franz Lehar. AM a Bohemian, not in the sense of-carouslng, for two glasses of beer and two clgaretes make my day's I dissipation. But I tell you what I-do: like, and in that sense I am a Bohemian; to be free to live my day and my night 1 as I will; to dine at 12, to dine at 6, or if I forget it. to dine not at all; to go to bed to-night, or if not to-night, and' I want to work, then to-morrow night Instead. t- I shall not marry, for it seems to.

me, and I have thought as every man Is callea to think, that my art would suffer. My whole present life. Just as my past, has meant absorption in it. If a man composes, and would do all that is iu him, he needs his whole individual self and time independent to accomplish It. All my life has been a struggle tor Independence and freedom to live by, composing.

Now," thank God, I. have reached It. Some may hold the writing of operettas as less artistic and needing less pro- found musical knowledge than other forms; I do not. Is a genre picture full of life less an art work than a great' historlal picture if both are painted with e(juai finish? There is never a moment that I am without musical thoughts; they in my mind no matter where I may be. In winter, in Vienna, I can do nothing" but prepare performances, conduct, and think.

In the summer I go down to Isch, and when I feel the mood coming over me I compose, perhaps all day, perhaps all -night, as it happens. But I must be alone, absolutely alone; even to know that there Is some one In the adjoining room to me is to be uncom-i for table. How did I come to write "The Merry Widow" waltz? It all came about, by accident of a suggestion. As I composed the operetta originally it did not occur at all. A climax was needed to carry a certain situatical In which a dialogue occurred.

To accompany the dialogue I wrote some bars of music that the character might dance, to give life to the scene. In rehearsal the effect came to light, and suddenly the Idea dawned as to what I might make out of it, and 7 that idea expanded until what was originally planned as a tributary situation grew into the. climax of the whole-; piece. From an Interview in Ainslee's Magazine. Accounted For.

Mrs. patience was much tried by a servant who had the habit of standing around with her mouth open. One day as Xhe maid waited upon the table her mouth was oper as usual, and her mistress said: "Mary, your mouth is open." "Yassum," replied Mary; "I opened "Six hundred suffragists marched through the streets of Boone, the other day celebrating the decision of the Iowa supreme court in favor of the constitutionality of the law allowing women to vote on qustlons of local taxation. Many of the best known women In the state. including Targe taxpayers, were among them, and the entire town turned out to watch the demonstration.

Mrs. Julia Ward Howe's reply to Mrs. Humphrey Ward's paper on the suffrage Question in America has been published as a leaflet and copies are being bought by the thousand. The majority of the orders are from the various suffrage clubs of this country and England. Mrs.

Jane Bancroft Robinson has just been elected president of the Woman Home Missionary Society of the Metho ds Episcopal cnurcn. succeeds airs. Clinton B. Flsk of New York, who re- iirA frrtm Va nfflr Ktfwa ufio Ctf Vat a STA TS years. Mrs.

Flsk had served as president of the society for 15 years and. during that time had traveled more than one hundred thousand miles and raised large sums of money in behalf of the society. Mrs. Robinson has teen active to the work since 1SSS, devoting herself chiefly to the promotion of deaconess work, homes and Institutions of the society. The council of the Royal College of Burgeons of England at a recent meeting resolved that steps should be taken at once to admit women to the examinations of the conjoint examining board end to the examination for the diploma In public health.

It also resolved that woman should be admitted to the examinations for a fellowship and to the examinations for license In dental surgery on the same footing with men applicants. The Pioneer Daughters of California are preparing to give a ballad concert for the purpose of raising funds to erect a monument on Market street In San Francisco to the pioneer mother. -At a LI I. Cam "MM. recent mcmog Philip V.

Mighels said that she had received a letter saying that the pioneer mother should be portrayed In heroic size and presented like a goaaess of in a family group. She answered that the pioneer mother was to be a human being, a figure that should speak of mother to every fr aI- t'-1-'- "That is why we want her In Market street." declared Mrs. Mighels. 'She will remind us that even In the mart of fjusmess tne nome is jn.rmv everything else conies second." The clubwomen of the country are commenting on the address delivered by Chancellor MacCracken recently at the opening exercises of the law class of the Woman's Legal Education society at New York university. Taking Mrs.

Humphry Ward's article on suffrage as a text. Dr. MacCracken declared that the principal need of the hour was Information as to Just how far suffrage has been extended to women and Its results in betterment. He Is quoted as i anrt a "In a city like ours, full of institutions and hospitals for women and children, it Is a crying shame that no woman in authority is on the health board, none on the board of education. Such an opinion coming from Chancellor the clubwomen de clare, seems peculiar when It is remem bered that the medical school or tne University of New York has repeatedly refused admission to women, and some persons have attributed this to two members of the faculty.

Chancellor MacCracken and Dr. Bryant. Miss Mary S. Woolman. of Teachers college, who has Just returned from her elxth trip of Investigation among the Schools for women In Europe, says that the various women's clubs In the German empire are establishing, with government alfl.

professional schools which give free Instruction to girls In housekeeping and Its allied branches. In schools through- I our Hiurope a groa aeai ui ttitcimuu being paid to subjects relating to tarrn work. In some schools stock raising. fhortlculture and such branches nave 'taken the place of higher mathematics. In a Berlin school particular attention riven to a course in professional pho- tograpny ior wilii b(tou icici- 1.

1- i women with such training are in great demand among physicians and scientists. According to Dr. Mary Mills Patrick, president of the American College for Girls In Constantinople, the present situation has affected the Turkish women more than the male inhabitants of Turkey. "The changes in the harems are most dramatic," says Dr. Patrick.

"Turkish women have not only thrown off their veils but they are lecturing In different cities like Constantinople and Salonica. They are forming women's clubs, three of which are now in active operation In Constantinople. 'Halldeh Salib is to-day the most prominent woman In Constantinople. She has been asked to write for every paper In the city, and her articles In the Tannin, the unofficial Government paper, are eagerly looked for and read by all classes. She Is a member of all the women's clubs and the president of the most important, besides being the only woman member of two men's clubs, a press club and the league for Public Safety.

Shells also taking a leading part in reorganizing the schools for girls throughout Turkey." Tn Illinois the laws that refer to women and children are those In re'aticn to the adoption of children, protection of girls. Laws In other nt of one woman factory inepec- the shortening of working hours and minors; Maine, Imoroved ASHTNGTON, Nov. 2L In the mat ter of clothes the next mistress of the White' House Is a woman of the plain type. While Mrs. Taft is always well and usually handsomely gowned her clothes are never the first thing which attracts the attention of the stranger.

Her taste runs to the plain cloth and rich silks. She is emphatically not the tailor-made silk-lined woman. Her favorite colors for the street are brown and gray and for evening wear pink, almost invariably. She has never appeared In an Imported She has had a number of evening gowns made of the fascinating, filmy Philippine fabrics, which she brought back to the States with ber after her long residence in Manila. And yet she brought only what she might have actual need of in the near future.

According to her thrifty nature, she purchases only what she can see a use for. Mrs. Taft Luxurious, In 17S7, when Mary Isabella, the beautiful Duchess of Rutland, occupied the position of vice-reine, at Dublin, she was acclaimed as the most lovely woman at a court mainly composed of pretty women. The duchess was proud of her looks, and one day her husband praised a certain Mrs. Dillon, whose social position prevented her being presented at court.

"She is the most lovely creature I have ever seen," exclaimed the enthusiastic viceroy. The duchess said nothing but. determined to see her rival. She drove to Parliament street, where Mrs. Dillon lived, and walked unannounced into, that lady's sitting room, looked fixedly for some moments and then said bitterly: "Yes, you are the most beautiful woman in the three kingdoms." She left the house as informally as she had entered it.

Home Notes. I there Is one thing more attractive than the evening frock of the season that one thing is the evening wrap. Tne foyer of the opera houses offer visions quite as entrancing as those on view In the boxes, and watching the crowd of beautifully gowned women going from carriage or motor to foyer or from foyer to carriage or car gives one an impression of luxury such as is hardly afforded even by a study of the grand tier. Surely we have reached tne top notch of elegance and extravagance In evening cloaks. Novelties may come, but In any thing more picturesque, more becoming, more lovely than some of the wraps we have seen this season we refuse to believe.

The fur wraps are of course in a class by themselves la point of costliness and luxuriousness. and some of the new models In ermine, the flowing directolre capes for example, are supremely elegant; but one turns from them to the marvelous confections of satin, velvet, net with a aigh of delight In the color and sheen and flow of these less costly materials. And, after ail, if one's aim is to spend money, one can spend a considerable amount upon an evening cloak even without going in for enveloping trailing ermine or chinchilla or sable. Costly fur may be judiciously combined with the humbler stuffs, and elaborate embroidery will do much toward boosting the price of chiffon or satin. Add to this the name of a great French designer and one has piled up a number of features likely to come high.

The amount of embroidery bestowed upon some of the handsome models is madly extravagant, but line is the first thing to be considered, the crux of the whole design. If the cloak fails there no amount of elaboration will redeem It, and with originality and grace of line a coat may achieve tremendous cachet without even the slightest trace of intricate detail. For instance, there is the black meteor crepe cloak of the sketch, a model from a famous. French maker, and dependent entirely upon its lines for its effect. The draped sleeves are graceful, but the distinctive and original note of the model Is to be found in the two long scarf ends in which the sleeve and shoulder drapery terminate and which fall tothe bottom of the cloak with a finish of big heavy tassels.

These scarf or stole draperies may be allowed to fall straight over the fronts, but are more effective when one i3 thrown' back over the opposite shoulder in Spanish fashion, as Indicated In the sketch. Still more simple more commonplace, too, yet very effective are the big cape cloaks of soft satin draped up over the arm by plaits which are usually held by handsome ornaments, similar ornaments decorating the fronts. All sorts of variations are rung upon this theme, and fur frequently enters into the trimming scheme. Big draped sleeves cut separately from the body of the coat or in one with it, the armhole In any case being hidden under trimming, with a cloak of capelike fall and sweep, are the usual thing, but of course details vary. Some beautiful French models In heavy satin crepe or satin or in chiffon or silk mousseline or satin have backs and fronts solidly embroidered in Dalmatic shape, while the rest of the cloak Is cleverly draped.

Others are combinations of heavy material with embroidered net or chiffon like the pink coat of the sketch, which was built up In chiffon faille and lavishly embroidered chiffon, with ermine collar and sleeve finish. Gorgeous models of gray net embroidered in gray and silver and trimmed in chinchilla have been brought over by importers, and one such coat was worn at the opera. In company with it that evening was a cloak of heavy satin in a gold yellow, with a broad band of skunk for bordering the neck and running down the fronts to the waist line, where the fur ended under big Byzantine ornaments- of gold and mock jewels. The ronta did not quite come together and were held at the bust line with soft scarfs of the satin finished with tassels matching the ornaments on the fronts. The golden yellows are popular for cloak purposes this winter, as for frocks, and this embroidered cape of the sketch was an especially lovely cape In this color.

The material was an all-silk chiffon velvet, marvelous in suppleness and sheen, and it was heavily embroidered with silk in self color and trimmed with self color silk fringe. The gray meteor model pictured here I it.".