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Cooper on Glothes 'CT" , Ihc Peacock Revolution got semiofficial sanction this year when, for the first time in its 29 years, the revered Best-Dressed List added a roster for men. Heading that list was Wyatt Cooper (right), husband of heiress Gloria Vandcrbilt, herself a Best-Dressed? woman. Cooper, Mississippi-born, New OrleaifeJ&tucat- ed, a'one-time television actor, movie script writer (The 'Chapman Re/iorl), and currently a magazine editor (Status), was an obvious choice, having been the first to wear the Nehru jacket in America. Cooper donned a Nehru (designed by Oleg Cassini) for an at-home party on Christinas Day^.ig66; first ventured to wear it in public to a Truman- Capote party in January,. 1967; was photographed — and the Nehru explosion was on. And while the Nehru jacket has.fong since fallen out of favor, it is recognized a$ having been the opening shot in the mens- wear revolution. A tall, slender Fess Parker look-alike, Cooper was interviewed by THIS WEEK at his New York town house. He was wearing a khaki Safari jacket, brown twill slacks, and brown suede ankle-high boots. During the interview, he removed his jacket to show his navy-and-red striped Bill Blass jersey: v-necked, full-sleeved, and worn out with a broad battered-silver, turquoise-studded Indian belt. TW: How do you feel about being the "Bett-Drested Man"? COOPER: 1 think it's amusing. I've never spent much time or trouble on dressing, and I don't have many suits. TW: Why do you think we^re having the to-called Peacock Revolution? ,' : ^' "/ '>•' ' COOPER: Men &fe rediscovering their egos. FoiUitri ! awfully long time men have sought a kind of anonymity in clothes: they've hidden in tent-like suits. In the Renaissance and other ages men wore Waltrina Stovall «/ This Week tondtuttd this inttrvitn. never look affected; ..?'** 'whatever one does to oneself, it should look as if it just happened..." clothing that accentuated*their maleness, but since the Victorian age it's been thought odd or pushy to wear clothes that arc tight-fitting. However, there have always been two types of well-dressed men. One is the cowboys, who dress with a marvelous kind of practicality and who accent their maleness with decorations, such as the little studs on the shirt yoke. I think thextnvooy is ^ -male enough to let it show. • '•-.', , '' "..- The other type is the military. You can take a fat old general and put him in a uniform and he really looks quite splendid. Uniforms are designed to emphasize masculinity. TW: Bui aren't some nun's fashions going too Jar today? COOPER: A lot of people feel that what is happening to men's fashion is terrible, but ruffle;* arijH lace have very little appeal. They won't -'be TOrn much. . -Other things such as big sleeves— the Tom Jones - : shirt sleeve — are actually very male. Full sleeves : are a tradition for swordsmen, and they have a kind of swashbuckling feel about them. And where we've always associated tight pants with the female, they're really very male.' They emphasize the lean, strong quality of the male body. I think that as the revolution levels off, what one will be left with is its practical aspects. What I think is going to happen, is that more and more men will be wearing what used; to be considered country >,. jclqUies in town, like my' Safari jacket, which only a '" very young man could have worn in town a few years ago. TW: Have you always been interested in clothes? COOPER: Not in the way of someone who collected clothes, but I've always noticed everything, and I've always had a sense, of what's right for me. For 15 years, I've worn twills. 1 used to have to send away to England because nobody had them here. I particularly like what the English call officer's pink cavalry twill — it's not pink, really, (to page 4) THIS WEEK't Wordt To Live By: ' 1 "Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence in society". — MARK TWAIN July 27, 1969 THIS WEEK For a Better America • William J. Woetfendiek, Editor "• f 1*67 t>'led Newwor«'l Mogaj.r.e Ccrpcralic*. 485 leiirgtoo A..., New Yorl, N. Y. IOCI7. This W««k • All righti. r > t r3e' ir'e'ro"C;fa* ^>nd fan American Ccryr-ghl ^OfvertiorJ. Reproduction :rt i**>o!e or in part without perfrMUiO* is^ohibited. On the cover: Somnvhrre right down the middle, a revolution took place and tlie good gray of the U.S. male began to give way to color and frills and heads. Even if only your necktie is a little brighter and wider, you've been affected, and more changes are promised in your future. Dan Wynn made the photographs. A quintet of expert opinions on men's fashions, collected by Mickey Herskoivit;, is on Page 4.