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W pJES_M01\I-;S SUNDAY RKGISTER July V, THEF^ONTROW By Elizabeth Clarkson Zwart Paris: Hemline Game Is Dead O N THE MOST steaming day of the summer, I stepped ir inside Babe's Restaurant in such discomfort that relief from the air conditioning was ' first try without quailing in fear of a shock. delayed. "Oh, when you stepped outdoors did the humidity grab your nylon stockings?" I asked Edna, my waitress friend. Edna looked at me dully. " r m wearing nylon panty hose!" she said. * » • * D O YOU believe in good luck charms? It was 24 years ago that Miss Florence Nichols, now a retired schoolteacher, swooped to pluck a four-leaf clover from her Thirty-fifth street lawn, and she has never forgotten it. Joyously she stuck the clover between her teeth, Jike Carmen. Then she walked r briskly into the house and fell all the way down the basement stairs. A broken arm was among the injuries Miss Nichols suffered, but she didn't lose faith in the four-leaf clover. She figured she might have broken her neck if she hadn't -had the good-luck symbol along on the trip. » » * * mHEY should offer high JL school girls a course in how to stick the plug firmly into the wall socket on the Front Row ipptirt l!v« timei wttkly.ln Th« OH Melnn Tribunt. • * T may be a surprise that a group of Des Moines women have had a Persian Club for years. But this midwestern Persian Club has nothing to do with Persian gardens, Persian rugs, Persian miniatures or Persian Gulfs. It's Persian cats. * » * + A FTER I took a trip through a packing plant — a trip made only to be helpful and polite to a more interested group — I forced myself to eat a steak for dinner. Like an airplane pilot taking off again after a crash. I didn't cook the meat, though. We ate out. » » * + E DDY HOEHL, a sign painter who lives in Carroll, pronounces his last name as if it were spelled H-0-Y-LrE. That's why he advertises: Every Sign According To Hoehl * • * * mHE TIP SHEET: If you're j_ filling your cup from a community pot, pour in the cream first and you won't have to stir the coffee. Besides, coffee tastes better if you pour the cream first. * » * + F AMILY. LIFE: I once knew a young man who wrote in an examination paper: "Buddha lived a normal life with a wife and family, and when he was 30 he left home in search of happiness." P ARIS, FRANCE (AP)The hemline game is dead in Paris. French fashion designers are just avoiding the question. When the week of fall and winter showings starts Monday, attention will be focused elsewhere — on fabrics, shapes, and special touches. The hem is where you want It- "I'm doing both lengths," says Pierre Cardin. "Short for dresses and long, sometimes even floor length, in coats." "Fashion," adds Yves Saint Laurent, ''cannot be summed up in inches. Most young women love miniskirts. I prefer medium lengths, and full lengths because I'm partial to the elongated silhouette." Courregcs says: "Hemlines are my smallest preoccupation." He thinks dresses "are not in keeping with today's pace." Ungaro compromises, keeping his miniskirts way up while bringing coats down to ankle length. S AINT LAURENT'S big number is his battle jacket that stops, Eisenhower- style, at the waist. There are military pockets and touches in much of his line and many slender wrap-over skirts. Philippe Venet does battle jackets too, but drops them YVII SAINT LAUMNT to a long cardigan length. Two-color cashmere hoods go with these costumes. At Saint Laurent there are hooded scarves and gypsy-scarfed turbans at Dior that recall the Twenties. Pants dominate, co-ordi- nated for daytime or revamped and glamorized for the night. Courreges is wild about jumpsuits. Cardin goes for sexy printed designs and glitter on his pants. Louis Fcraud has styled a three-piece costume. The tunic, pants, tights, or skirt can be mixed, matched or topped by a matching topcoat, contrasting only in color. NINA RICCI launching a shepherd's cloak, lining it with nutria. Fur trimming is everywhere. Most ot the coats .have marked waistlines. Moly n e u x ' s body-hugging silhouette is belted and so is Goma's structured shape. Cardin belts his dresses at the waist. For the evening, Dior is dropping his necklines to dizzy depths with brocaded silver or gold tunics matched up with floating scarves. And Dior designer Marc Bohan claims that women (ire "subconsciously" fed up with miniskirts. Inspired by advice from Prancoise Sage.ii, the novelist, he has dropped day hemlines to "new look" lengths. Cardin's evening story is inspired by the age of poets romance. There are loose shifts, flowing ankle-length capes, rich embroideries, and polished silver or steel jewelry. Others are making naive baby doll dresses that are demure and sexy at the same time. Other People's Children By Kfthrya Love mHEY KEEP you In the poor house. If it weren't 1 for other people's children, your kids wouldn't want so much: And they're the ones who get your children into trouble. Other people's children never furnish cookies for the P.T.A. — It's yours who do that. Other people's children are a hundred times noisier than your cherubs. fhey have atrocious manners. They break things. They have no respect for anybody. They're fast becoming juvenile delinquents. And to your neighbor, yours are other people's children. with, ••*•«>••> Be Well-Dressed, Not Over-Dressed M UCH of the emphasis is three different styles, featuring meltons, double crepes and wool velours. Ricci's stunning patchwork tweeds are great and De Rauch is With Imagination, Who Needs Money? D° SHE L\ WOLD on BRIDGE By Alfred Sheinwold rpHERE ARE dozens of _L things to think about when you play bridge: Where to go for lunch the next day, whether it's true that half of the secretaries in your office wear falsies, and why Bill Bailey doesn't come home. They won't help you half as much as counting your tricks, but they do pass the time pleasantly. South dealer Both sides vulnerable NORTH * ™ £; s f> O 6 5 3 : + J9862 W EST EAST 485 4 J 10963 <? Q J 10 7 3 C? 9 5 4 I 0-97 O A 8 4 «fr A 10 7 ? 4> Q SOUTH 4 AKQ2 D A K O K Q I 10 + K54 South West North East 3 NT All Pass Opening lead — \J' Q When today's hand came along declarer won the first trick with the king of hearts and firsa back the king of diamonds. Then he could go back to thinking of Bill Bailey. East took the ace of diamonds and returned a heart to the ace. Now South could take three spades, three diamonds and two hearts, but his luck ran out pfter eight- tricks. West defeated the contract with the ace of clubs and three hearts. If South had counted, he would have seen that going after the diamonds at once would give him only eight tricks. Since they don't give you any medals for going down one, a declarer who was really trying would aim for nine tricks. South's best chance for nine tricks- -is—to— develop—four—• clubs, and he can do this only if East has the singleton queen. With this in mind, South should lead the king of clubs from his hand at the trick. If West takes the ace of clubs and knocks out the ace of hearts, South must lead a club to take a finesse with dummy's eight (as long as the queen has happened to drop). He gets back with a spade to take another club finesse and then makes the game with four clubs, three spades and two hearts. If West fails to take the ace of clubs (and there is a fair chance that West will hold off the first club even if he has A-x or A-x-x of the suit), South switches to diamonds at once and makes his game with three spades, three diamonds, two hearts and one stolen club trick. Question Partner opens with 2-NT (22 to 24 points), and the next player passes. You hold: *74»86»6532*J9862. What'do you say? Answer: Pass. Partner's bid is highly invitational, but not forcing. You should pass any balanced hand of less than four points. YOU KNOW what's more important than money when it comes to furnishing a house? It's imagination! With imagination you can create effects that a person with money and n o imagination can never attain. This is something you can't buy. If you have money, you may hire someone to bring imagination into your home, but it's not the same. It's much more fun if it's your imagination that does the trick. One friend collects brass candlesticks and uses these en masse on different tables around the room. When he gives a party, he has only candlelight and it seems to create a wonderful relaxing mood (and makes every woman an enchantress). Another friend brings those wicker beach chairs into the living room when she has a large gathering and they add an interesting informal touch. An old wooden cradle completely filled with growing plants becomes a conversation piece when placed under a picture window. A woman I know was passing a farm near Quak- erstown, Pa. She noticed they were tearing down an old barn and tossed among the lumber was a wooden section with one of the old Hex signs on it. She asked if she could have it, and when the workmen agreed, she loaded it in her station wagon. It is now on the white brick wall of her dining room, the envy of every collector. The more you use your imagination, the better it gets, so put yours to work now! No Curtains Dear Dorothy Draper: Do I need curtains or draperies on a long window with shutters? -Mrs. M. L. Dorothy Draper says: If the window frame around the shutters is decorative and you have plenty of color' in the room, it can look most refreshing without curtains. Loofc Smart/ By Harry Juster T7WERY ONCE in awhile J-J we get a letter from a man who has a "thing" about being well-dressed and rakes us over the coals for emphasizing its importance. Invariably, there is one underlying theme: The fear of being tabbed a "Beau Brummell" with little on his mind except clothes. Too bad. Because a well- dressed appearance can be an asset, not only in the impression made, but in what it does to give poise and confidence. Too bad, too, that any man wduld arbitrarily disregard his appearance with the excuse, "I don't want to be called a clotheshorse." Who does? Dressing smartly doesn't mean dressing to "kill." Far from it. All it means is carefully putting together an outfit in order to get a well- co-ordinated, pleasing look. - And that is all this column attempts to do: To give information which will help a man be well-dressed—not over-dressed. • • • Question: Why are men so afraid to get into new styles? I got my husband some of the new wide ties and you should WOLF'S DOWNTOWN MERLE HAY PLAZA I For Full 1969 Big Feet; Early Steps? (Special to the Register) S COTT AIR FORCE BASE, ILL.—Big feet may mean early steps. An Air Force doctor, Col. Kenneth Shepard, who has been comparing the foot sizes ,of newborn babies with the dates they start walking, says there seems to be a distinct connection. Babies with larger feet take their first steps at about one year of age, whereas babies with smaller feet tend to start walking at about 21 months. Iowa's Oldest Jewelry Store It's easy to make a mistake Diamonds are like fingerprints . . , each one is different. They come in an infinite variety with thousands of variations in qualify. And without the advice of an expert you could easily make a mistake ... an expensive one. At Plumbs we make certain you know what you're doing before you buy and that you understand how the 4 C's (Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat) determine the value of" a dIamon(f.~We^fl^TV"th'e~1mp~brtance~of" quality, too, even if it means buying a smaller stone. Pine diamonds are rare. There are no bargains... only good values. And Plumbs has been known for their fine quality diamonds and good values for over 104 years. Visit with one of our experts in our private diamond room. He'll give you the facts. Prices start at $75.00 TERMS AS DESIRcO AMERICAN OfM SOCIETY WALNUT AT SIXTH MEMBER PARK AND SHOP Open Monday Night 'til 9 Th» heels are stacked — the toes ars broader — it's Town and Country's version of the vhies you'll wear for Fall '69. Dashing with casual clothes and pani uits. Shop till 9 Monday night Shoes Downtown rind Merle- Hay Plaza, a fence" The Bandit: Chunky heel with buckle and perforated trim. Black Patent with Roan or Grey trim, also Navy with Red trm. $20 The Toreador: Chunky heel with unique stitchinq on the rlarrenng front fiap. Saddle Tan burnished leather. $18 have heard the howl just because they're about 4V 2 inches wide. He says he.'s too short and fat for these ties. Isn't that like a man, to use this excuse for not wearing something new? —Mrs. L. G. Answer: That's no excuse he is handing you. Being short and heavy is a mighty good reason for not wearing these more extreme widths, as they will make him look even more portly. Get him the 3 >£-inch widths which are also an "in" style and he won't raise any howl. e e e Question: I would like to know if there is any one thing that is the key to good fit to look for in a coat? I'll be out of the Army shortly and any pointers you can give a soon- to-be civilian will be appreciated. -G. W. Answer: While proper fit involves many details, there is ONE important key. If the coat rests on your shoulders and neck with practically no weight, it's well-balanced. However, if it hits on the shoulders and causes periodic shruggings to try to get in place, beware. Regardless of how well it may fit otherwise, the coat will never "sit" well and" always be uncomfortable. Shop til 9 Monday night WOLF'S DOWNTOWN MERLE HAT EUZA FUR FEVER! CATCH IT! I. We've captured a new and excit- irig breed of coats for 1969! Furr species of fashion imagination our gamekeepers will be happy to .' identify for you. When you find yours, let it hibernate in our cave until you call for it. Soft dyed White Rabbit, smooth natural or dyed Muskrat, natural unplucked Nutria, curly dyed Lamb and scrumptious dyed Mink sides. Great young furs for fashionables of all ages. Priced frorri $110 to $599. 1. Dyed White R.abbit with double breasted closing. Leather buttons and tie belt. $110 2. Natural Muskrat, shaded pelts. Double breasted, soft wide leather belt and leather trim pockets. $389 Fuss, Fourth Floor Dou'nlown b'ur /j/'/idiicts labeled in gliniii country of origin, of imported furs. 2.