The Peninsula Times Tribune from Palo Alto, California • 50

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ILu I True luxury bh the rocks By Jem Simmons DallM Morning Now meadow around have appearedTd. many a motion picture. Every year sees a new facility at Tall Timber. This year a dining room is under construction high on the hillside, where each table will have a view from Its own bay window. f-1 Tall Timber can hardly to called a cret hideaway.

The Mobil Travel knows It well enough to give It five stars! -one of only a dozen resorts with such a -lofty rating. Its one of 25 places Included: in Dream Resorts by Andrea Chambers. distributed by Crown York). jf With so few rooms, reservations gem; erally need to to requested months iff advance. So think ahead for Tall Timber.1 basics from her parents, who owned Ah! Wilderness, a guest ranch about a mile down the track.

Her husbands family. In the hotel business In Florida, used to come there on vacations. Denny later graduated from the School of Hotel and Restaurant' Management at the University of They married, bought the nearby property, camped In tents and began building their hand-designed dream. Guests provide their own entertainment-The facilities are there for the taking. With only eight suites holding about two dozen, people (maximum of 30), there Is small likelihood youll have any competition for their use.

Up a spiral staircase from the dining room is a cozy cocktail lounge (alcoholic drinks $5, carbonated beverages 75 cents) and a library containing 3,000 books. Help yourself while youre there. Or go fishing for trout Or relax lna lounge chair on a rustic deck looking out on the rushing Las Animas Perdidos, or river of lost souls," a perfect setting for watching the stars come out Should you get cabin fever, hop bn the train and go north to Sllverton for a couple of hours. Or pick up a map of the hiking trails and head up to various waterfalls, lakes or overlooks. The trails are marked by color-coded arrows, but to forewarned they are not always easy to follow.

Our planned two-hour morning hike was more like four hours. Mealtime brings the three high points of the day, physically If not literally. Theres no need to dress up, Just wear your jeans If youd like and comfortable shoes because guest accommodations are a quarter-mile away. But to prepared to dine In style with gold-rimmed china, nice crystal and silverware; linen cloths and candlelight at night, and a huge fireplace and beamed ceiling. There is no set menu and each meal comes as a wonderful, delectable surprise with outstanding breads and Our first lunch, as an example, consisted of cream of wild rice soup, herb bread, chicken salad in pineapple boat plus fruit salad and topped off with chocolate mint cake.

years, headed the welcoming committee. Then Denny led our small group on a walking tour of the grounds while our luggage was loaded onto a golf cart and dellv-. ered to our quarters, normal. procedure for new arrivals. First the green house, where all the pretty blooms around the property-get their start Next the tennis court then the putting green, followed by the sparkling swimming pool and the, adjoining dining room.

The fiberglass pool, Beggrow said, was built to fit a flatbed car on the narrow--gauge train, earlier pools having been dropped three times from a helicopter. He then gestured toward a small structure nearby It contained Finnish saunas and hot tubs! Shortly you are taken into the station, which doubles as the office, to' register. (Behind the garage door, we were to learn later, is a big red fire engine.) Denny then leads you up the pathway to one of two condominium buildings housing your apartment At an altitude of 7,500 feet, youll feel the climb. Stained a dark brown, the unobtrusive pine, cedar and stone buildings hide deep In the woods, invisible to the railroad passengers shuttling back and forth several times each day during the summer. Only from the nine-hole golf course are you ever on view and theres something special about being able to wave at the passengers before going back to your putting as they proceed, n6 doubt enviously, on their touristy way.

Theres a par-27 Executive course, which more than likely you will share only with the sprinklers and the birds. Clubs and balls may be borrowed at the office, as may tennis racquets. Pros probably would consider the golf layout equivalent to a miniature course. As rank amateurs, we liked the short fairways and tiny greens; in fact, we may be spoiled forever. But its hard to keep ones eye on the ball amid such scenery, The owners are, relaxed perfectionists, If there can be such a thing.

Everything Just seems to happen, yet you are aware It is carefully contrived, Mrs. Beggrow grew up learning the One night featured a Chinese dinner complete with egg rolls, chicken with peanuts, stlrfrled beef, sweet and sour pork and for dessert a snowball of coconut-covered Ice cream with mango sauce and accompanied by almond cookies. An outstanding breakfast featured puffed pancakes plate-size shells filled with strawberries, peaches and whipped cream, plus bran muffins and corn muffins on the side. Other unusual touches abounded, such as kiwi ice, car-' rots with pine nuts, squash bread, swanshaped eclairs and other dlet-destructing creations. Another little surprise awaits each night, too, when you retire.

Fresh fruit, a can of smoked almonds, a piece of chocolate or the like. One night It was two brown terry-cloth robes with a note that they were ours to keep, a departure from the resorts that advise guests that similar robes can to purchased In the gift shop. Weather permitting, and It usually does, a helicopter picnic departs each Thursday after breakfast Destination Is Emerald Lake, on the highest 10 square miles In the Lower 48, about 12 minutes away. Hiking trails lead from there to the Con tinental Divide at 1300 feet or to Pear Lake. Our host declined to tell me about the menu (he likes to surprise his guests), but if It is in line with the other meals It must to a treat The price, by the way.

Is $105 per The resort is built on 180 private acres surrounded by San Juan National Forest Roaming Ute Indians first used the area as summer hunting grounds; a Spaniard, Escalante, came looking for a route to Santa Fe and Is credited with having named the Animas River. Miners came searching for silver and gold, followed by the railroad to carry the ore out of the mountains. The train in turn brought desperadoes, ranchers and profit seekers; who left legends, cultivable lands and the still that was used to make the potato liquor once sold in all the saloons. In the last 25 years this train and around Tall Timber the pnly sizable Forget about the stock market and the '-price of gold: The only copy of the Wall Street Journal you might get would be under the kindling In the living-room fire placKTt would have been brought In by a' gUfflt. Forget, too; about television.

Open the curtain Instead and watch the ever-hungry hummingbirds flit about the feeder In grove of aspen trees. Dont reach out by the bedside to call home because there Is no telephone, period. A radiophone In the office is for emergency use only. All this seclusion lies In a little meadow: surrounded by the rugged San Juan Mountains bf southwestern Colorado. It Is Tall Timber, a small resort with big ideas.

True -luxuryon the rocks. Above all, dont get a whim to check out unexpectedly because Its a long walk to the nearest civilization. Youll have to wait for the next train or arrange for a NOt ihat you are apt to want out, night-scene devotees excepted. This Is the ultimate place to relax, to do exactly as much or as little as you wish; as should be expected, youll pay generously for the privilege. 1." When we stepped off the steam-pulled train midway between Durango and verton and saw the smiling welcoming committee lined up along the narrow-gauge tracks In front of an attractive new station, we knew we were in for something special.

Soon we learned that these friendly young people were members of the staff no, never employees, any more than a guest Is considered a customer or anything other than a guest Gradually wed learn their names as they pampered us with marvelous food and unobserved Into our rooms to makd'them up in the morning or make them down at night When we said goodbye several days later, we were leaving Owifers Denny and Judy Beggrow, who have created this remoth haven In Just 10 When to go Summer season ends OcL 31; closed month of November; opea fdf winter season (with skiing at nearby Ptfr-. gatory) December and January; closed, February to May 15. Minimum May erally one week, beginning with arrival Sunday morning and ending the following Saturday; three-day minimum stays cah.be arranged at certain periods. Accommodations Condominium-type apartments called Timber Hearths (two upstairs bedrooms) and Timber Suites (one upstairs bedroom) are luxuriously appointed. Each has own living room, huge stone fireplace, wet bar and lnsldq balcony.

Rates through Oct 31 Weekly $1,475 single or $975 per person double; daily cost, $300 single or $195 for each of two. Children 3 through 12 occupying same unit with parents receive 20 percent, discount; ages 2 and under pay onetiqie charge of $100. Getting there Not easy. First drive or fly to Durango, then board the DurangOv Sllverton Narrow Gauge Train, the last scheduled narrow gauge train In the country, or a helicopter. Tall Timber will make arrangements for either.

Reservations Tall Timber, SSR Box 90, Durango, Cbto. 81301; (303) 2594813. Bear In mind its a radiophone so convert satlon can to somewhat difficult -Lively National Historic Landmark Rustic resort that is a city in itself DURANGO, Colo. Just 18 every tree removed for construe- in winter the golf course be-miles north of Durango, but a far, two others were planted else-comes a cross-country ski area; cryfrom its frOntler-like western where.0ak, pine and blue spruce There also is a beginners' hill with flavor is the condominium resort of predominate, and there are 57 spe- rope tow and double chairlift, com-. Tamamm, where, luxury knowa no ..68 plete with Instructors and night bounds.

V- 1 Plck 006 worA to de- lighting. Sleigh rides, snowshoelng. The resort is a city In itself with scribfc outstanding lce fishing, heliskiing, sledding, a huge Main Lodge and several snowmobiling and Ice skating also Members of the staff 400 in all ere offered, along with dally shut- make It a point to address you tie service to Purgatory Ski Area 15 by name and to smile. minutes away. Le Canyon Is the elegant dining r'- Location On U.S.

550 18 miles condominium clusters nearby. It was created deep In the heart of the San Juan Mountains out of rock, wood and glass to the tune of continental room, featuring menu with tableslde carving, flanring coffees and the Ilka Besides normal services, guests are offered everything from babysitters to resident photographer. The New Sheridan Hotel, far. from new, is for the traveler who! likes atmosphere over modern con yeniences, although nine of its 30: rooms have nice private baths and some have oversize The' three-story building has been renovated In an understated Victorian decor and an elevator Installed. Alternative accommodations include the Best Western Tomboy Inn and the attractive-looking Victorian Inn, both well rated.

A visit to the San Miguel Historical Society will reveal that Butch Cassidy pulled his first bank job in Telluride in 1889. William Jennings Bryan spoke for the Populist cause OcL 27, 1902, outside the hotel No one should miss a call at the Rose Victorian Food Mart, called by Playboy probably the most beautiful grocery store In the world. Besides attractive displays of everything Imaginable in the food line, sandwiches are made to order from dozens of cheeses and meats. It is open every day of the year. north of Durango; Durango Sllverton Narrow Gauge R.R.

skirts southeastern edge of resort bit does not stop there. it- Rates Through Sept 30, stu- Other activities Include art lessons, dios are $110 single, $115 archery, volleyball bicycling, and executive suites, $175, single xt hmiHng and water fciing at nearby double; two-bedroom Valleclto. Stocked lakes, $220 single or double; three-tod-ponds and streams on the property room townhouses, $270 one to-allow fishing without a state 11- three persona cense. Variety of special packages Full- and half-day Jeep trips to available for gotten, tennis play-s ghost towns and other old mining ers, honeymoonen and skiem towns can be taken from June Reservations and information through mid-September, weather Tamarron Resort, P.O. Box permitting.

Also available season- Durango, Cola 81301; (303) 27-fc ally are river-rafting trips and 8801, or (800) 525-5420. hunting for elk and deer. Jean Simmons $30 million. Rustic contemporary best describes the architecture. The main building consists of 134 deluxe condominium units, two penthouses, a health spa.

Indoor-outdoor swimming pool, two restaurants, two cocktail loudges and convention facilities for.up to 500 people The lodge is perched on a 200-foot cliff overlooking the Sundowner golf course, no run-of-the-llnks facility. Players not in the pro class are apt to find their game resembling an adult Easter egg hunt Designed by Arthur Hill, the 685-yard course has eight water holes and 72 sand traps. Views are magnificent especially from some of the tees located atop 100-foot cliffs: Also on the 605-acre property are Indoor-outdoor tennis courts, riding stables and a ski area The natural setting has only been Improved by the development For TELLURIDE, Cola The only sane way Into mountain-wrapped Telluride, Is along a four-mlle-kmg deadctnd spuri.road leading, through a pretty canyon off Colorado Hwy. 145. Snowcapped peaks of the San Juan Mountains rise to 13,000 feet on the other three sides.

Ute Indians referred to them as the shining mountains because of the glow, cast high on the rocks by the setting sun. Telluride, which Itself lies at 8,745 feet, for good reason has been described as the most amazing townsite in North America. Visible from the end of the road is longest waterfall 450-foot Bridal Veil Falls. There is a Jeep trail on which. Im told, adventurers with four-wheel drive can conquer the heights from Ouray to the east, but the summer season Is short and the ride to to harrowing.

Thu; latest talk about town is of a proposed airport five miles away, just one of many developments effecting the local lifestyle. But in the meanwhile, visitors come in by airport limousine or renttilgar from Montrose (nearest airport), Cortez, Grand Junction or Durango, all served by commercial flights, or In their own vehicles from, points farther afield. Ottr route tqok us north from Durango through Sllverton and Ouray to Rldgway, then west cm Colorado 82 over Texas Divide to Placervllle, picked up Colorado 145 golngjfolith. There Is almost a Brigadoon qualityabout this remote little Victorian town (1,047 residents at last official'count), which has been a Historic Landmark since 1964 YeTjapid changes have taken place In recent years, a transition period from a mining to a resort economy. Dozens of condominiums and luxurious neo-Victorian homes now mix with Imaginatively painted and renovated structures from the mining era.

v. snow that falls In the moun- tains -at an average depth 'of 300 r-Inches per year is now white gold' to the local dtlztos. In 1971 Bill Mahoney left his Job as foreman of the Idarado Mine, which finally shut down In 1978, to build TellurideS first lifts and ski trails. Today there are 24 miles of trails served by six double chairlifts. Fifty percent of the 37 ski runs are Intermediate, 35 percent advanced-expert and 15 percent beginner.

The steepest lift is Coonskln with a vertical rise of 1,838 feet Its base Is only a few blocks from the middle of town. Just out the door from several new condominium developments. In town, turn-of-the-century brothels and hotels have been charmingly renovated to house gourmet restaurants and drinking establishments, which take on extra apresekl conviviality. Rather than bury Its past; the town makes It a point to inform visitors about the cribs" Silver Bell Pick and Gad just three of 26 houses that once housed 175 ladles of the evening. A full program of films, the arts and other entertainment is in force at the historic Sheridan Opera House, Just behind the New Sheridan Hotel.

The opera house was restored, refitted for movies and reopened in 1973 at the time of the first Telluride Film Festival. Listed on the National Register of Historic Place, the 1913 building is a delight with Its tiny upstairs Theater Bar, cafe tables In the upper balcony and working old-timey scenic screen. Aspens are due to peak Sept 22 through OcL 7. Regular activities Include trout fishing, hiking, camping, horseback riding, jeeping, tennis and rock hounding. Information: Telluride Central Reservatlona, P.O.

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