Two HOPE (ARK.) STAR Saturday December 17, 1977 shun 'elitism' Vintners debate virtues of blending Bv Mttrrat Oldffrnan *~" in*. 1 K;,r th«'!.-«n u:r- hr< ru'-lv lull da), vi jib !hr ••'• r b;>ncmf.< to difff-r»>nt .•ilrrs-MTi't t>rforr onr's H<-r!w<»l (toad wind- in!/) thf Ma),ic:am.is -t ff Napa leads to cl> nt-stled Oiriv »U>'-f'•, winery, "UK- !;iil--k!r virws have :>fM; -tripped of their rrj<jK'<. The work to bo done f- tnsidf. Davr Cofran. rcsi- di-nt m-noloRiM, is conduct- ?rr>: a tulfi itt'n y >fiiiiiinr i>fi thf blrndiw nf wines H!« tiding i«i now a rontrn- tK.u*, subirt.-t m the wine country nf California, which product's 270 million gallons annually The vintners are conwioux of the fact that rvc-n in iJH-tr perfect climate for ^rotting the ijrarw, there arc variations in the bottled crop from year to y<-ar .So many ol the leading'produc- ers have iK'fjun to laln-I thoir products with the y*> nr vintage wines nnd appropri- ale- tocktnil Uilk ("Wasn't 'i'. 1 ? A brrtutiful yenr" 1 "! bcinR lh<- nviull. Christian Brothers, however, has Ix-en steadfast in it,-, r«-fiolvr? not to Hucrurnb to Uii.«. rhtist movement It pfclt-n consistency of product. mixiriK (or blending) the wines from different vin- IstK" years so lh«t the 7,in- f.'md«'l, for instance, will not vary much over n deciidc in tnste, color or KmoothnrxK, The rrsponsibility for this corncs down to Cofrnn, n snul>now<I youtiK man of 32 who crnih'r/ilcd from Illinois more than a dcaidc a^o and know, thflt the end product of his .•irnsitive palate will find its w.-iy to the shelves of the liquor store in Peoria or Memphis. Cofran, « Rraduntc of oe- noloijy find viticulture at the University of California at Davis acknowledges his own prejudice;; in the wine field ft* he spends his dnys swishing the liquid «round his mouth "I like n heavier wine, with more KUts. more tannin," he siiys. "Too often, wines «re almost Uie same." This could lx- intcrr)rcted as heresy by Brother Timothy, the fumed coUannastcr of Christian Brothers, who oncv vow«I that no vintage AT THE MONT I .A SAU.K vineyards of The Christian Brothers, the ornolo£i*t* have been .steadfastly in favor of ronnlKtency of product rather than the "elitism" of vintaKe-Iahflled wines. wine would come out of his domain while he snorted n breath Ho has had to swallow those words because this year a Gcwurtztrnminer was issued with a vint-acc* (1976) labd by U»- winery There were only 1,200 cases, though — among the 1.5 million cases of wine pro dueed annually by the Brothers - this being the first crop of Gcwurtztrnmincr. Actually, It's simpler for a wine maker to produce vintage wines. They're either good or bad, depending on that year's harvest. By blending several vintages he hedges his bet. Christian Brothers holds 50 or 60 Mendings n year of its various varietal wines. What if. on the crucinl day. Dave Cofran comes up with a cold in his nose? They'll wait a week or two. On this day, his taste buds are in »;ood shape. Lined up on n long bar are 15 different bodies, representing .samples from 15 different casks. With each is » card detailing the history of that particular wimple. They're all Zinfan- 'lel, a native California var- ietal, for this blending, Dave pours, holds the glass up to the light to examine the color, swills it around a couple of times, sniffs it for aroma, takes a swig, rotates his jaw and spits into a cardboard bucket he carries. ''T h e occupational hazard." he says, "i.s getting it on your shirt." in the course of a busy day of blending", he could also get looped because even with the spilling, a couple of drops of each sample invariably remain in the mouth, and the drops add up. How does it affect him, to knr.w th;il what he ulfi- rnaU-i> tastes ,-md blends wilt resulted in 5 4 million gallons »f wme annually to U- mark'-tr-d nationally* 1 " It scares hrll out of you There s 3 l ot of money at Make Brother Timothy, glow- faced ,-jnd in his 70s. is also wn hand fr, r Ihj.s Xmfandel blending «f lf»7-;-74-75 vintages and says defensively, We'd lose the complexity of our wines if we went into a viri'"!"" .I'.i.c,,, *,-„.,..„.», .-,- *.......„ t ,. ,,^, ,)..) You lose the balance tx-- tween younger and older wines You also lose reliability and credibility " You also lose, it might be argued, the chance to have the wine of a great year on the shelves by itself. "You would cheat your older customers," counters Brother Tim. "of the better item that should go into a blend." "And," adds Cofran loyally, "you take a tool away from the winemaker." He outlines the qualities that go into this new blend. The '73 vintage was lighter and aged nicely. The 74 was heavier, with more tannin, and still coming around in flavor. The '75 had a beautiful bouquet and could have been bottled by itself. A small percentage of another varietal, petit sirah, was added for color. Before it would be aged in redwood and then oak casks the 17.000 gallons of this blend would be mixed with 10,000 gallons of the previous year's blend. By the lime it got to Peoria, in the finished bottle, even Alex Haley wouldn't be able to deciphe'r its roots. iNKWSI'AI'KK KNTKKPKISK ASSN.i 1M-T? ,TAPK NO 1> THE WEST Murray Olderman A Greek god descends on America Hy Hob Patterson Derins Kousos should do commercials for American Express "Hello. I'm sure you don't know nu>. but I've sold over .no million .'ilhums wor !il wale in the p;ist six years, have sold mil concerts from S.Hidi Arabia to South America, and can travel as frtvly between Israel and the Arab countries as Henry Kissinger But without this card . ." The problem is Dcmis Koussos. international superstar, is so unknown in America ho doesn't even rate a cult following This burly! bearded mountain of a Greek has spearheaded a one-man movement in soft pop. capturing continents with his airy, classically European love songs, visiting (JO countries a year and singing m eu:ht different languages uiumiy English i. A soldiiut wwk ,-it London's Palladium (where tickets cost eight pounds each - about IS good old I' S greenbacks - proves he can sing m English and connect But I was still left wondering can the guy sing Ameruvin'" "The album I'm going to do in January with Fred Perren ta top flight I' S record producer, best known for his disco wort ' is going to be very- rock -country orientated (sio." says Dt'mis in his "pretty good" English, "but I'm going to put my Greek, Mt-diirrra/K-an flavor into this music. So cvuld be an in- temsting marriage between these :w»i music, no"'" It should be interesting to ikjy the if j$i In addition to recording in the Suites. Denus ha«. iis-j Jint"d up ten network !densi.« guest spots, a full scale concert tour, and ifi management by the s wo •.<• oeen involved m carters, of such stars as > Chirles and the |K.'5:/-rs On paper, it's an il u. mil lite invasion of Humes, Dexter Gordon, Slide Hampton, Woody Shaw. Gil Evans and Ted Curson. The party perfectly recreated the era of "The Contemporary Masters Series" it was intend'- ed to celebrate. Jazz fans will find the recordings by Lester Voung, Charlie Parker and Miles Davis on the series to be worthy of such hoopla. CBS also gathered together some of their finest jazz talent last summer at the Montreux Festival in Switzerland, the results of which can be found on the "Montreux Summit" albums (volume one-is already out. two is expected in January i. Featuring such diverse talents as Bob James, Eric Gale (Stuff), George Duke, Bobbi Humphrey, Tbjis Van Leer (Focus) and Maynard Ferguson, the Ip is a triumph of technology, talent and logistics. M.»S)'U'KH KVrKHJ'HISK ASSN . DEMIS ROl-SSOS may command hugr audiences in the rest of the world, but it seems unlikely he'll bring the I 1 S under his sphere of influence ' THE WORLD .ALMANAC Hik livisn stage sho* (or U-'t- Mites is no two-bit act It »larb- wits an arigehr choir on tape sjngmg ad utftrutum - Roussos . . " — while huge Greek urns billow out clouds of smoke Demis rises from under the smoke, and his nine- piece rock band builds, under Demis' reedy tenor, into a pop aria Throughout the show various semi-religious backdrops heighten his almost priestly approach to pop But then in the middle of it ail, he throws in a clip-cloppmg version of John Denver's "Country Hoads " "The public never knows what he wants," says Demis wisely, "but he always wants what he knows My music up lo now has a lot of European flavorings, but not the album I'm going to make in January The marriage is going to be perfect, I'm sure." Alter seeing and talking with Demis, and getting a first hand chance to discover what his record company calls his famous 'charisma.' <I him merely smart and flashy. 1 couldn't doubt his sincerity But I'm not betting on the marriage While Americans may want outrageous stars. I'm not sure they'll take to one coming on m robes like an Arab oil potentate In a sense Demis is the Barry White of Europe — mellow, romantic troubador for the masses The I' S doesn't really need another. J a z 2 i .s e n ) o y mg a resurgence ui commercial popularity these days, and some of the most interesting events have revolved around CBS Records' "Winning Season In Jazz " Svireiy the most interesting New York party this season was their "Night At Birdland " where the legendary Broadway jazz club was resurrected from a seedy disco (or one night The evening featured an all-star jam among such greats as Helen _ Match up tie invention witi its inventor. 1. astronomical telescope 2. helicopter 3. thermometer < safety pin 5. electric batten- la) Sikorskv (bi Volta ' »c) Hunt <d) Kepler (e» Galileo ANSWERS «1> 'SO) K3> £te) - 1 According to the Chinese Lunar Calendar. 1977 is the year of the (at snake ibi rooster 'ci ox 2 There are presently only two women state governors. They are 3 Which fruit has a higher caloric content, one cup of blueberries or one cup of strawberries'" ANSWERS: s jo dno cc snsjaA dnD jad eg CRITIC AT LARGE Neil Simon maintains a golden touch . tr n n « 'b B> Norman \adel NKV, Vr>HK Th'-atr-r pf-opjc i if th" ^t.rfgf iithtine i>. right tfir- audif-nt ••• note r ?h'- lighdfie <.,irru> tok'-n if ,-. f bf-.-1'jtifull 1 . < v>nstrut t< .ni'lif-n'-p •*on i think .^ an hi!«-( turr- r.f th' 1 plot m.inipuliition of <d.jrat U r> or dr-ft !hm£> that it re done with words They'll be IIH, i-.ui^ht up in whatever the- pl,i\ wright is trvinp to share with th»>m Of course thore have to b«- f x c f. p t i i, n 5 . t h c; rn » s ; successful being Neil Simon, and the example conveniently at hand, his latest comedy Chapter Two ' just arrived at the Imperial Theater for what is bound to be a long and profitable stay F.vcrybody' cares dec-ply what is going to happen with two of the four characters George i Judd Hirsch i. recent !y widowed and grievously hurt by the death of his beloved wife, and Jennie i Anita Gillette i. just divorced but too insecure to think even about dating, much less a lasting alliance So concern for them -ustains the play through typically Simon generosity with comedy, and moments of genuine poignancy as well Because we care for George and Jennie, we are entertained, empathic. touched, tickled and, finally! reassured. It makes for an exhilarating, enheartenmg evening in the theater. Nevertheless, while all this is going on, the machinery of this new Simon comedy is as conspicuous as the structural steel, plumbing and wiring in a half-completed building. Just as a framework provides a fair idea of what the finished edifice will look like, Simon's plot structure makes the comedy's outcome practically certain within the first" few minutes. The suspense lies not in what he is going to do with his people, but how he will do it ANITA GILLKTTE AND Jl'DI) HIRSCH are two characters that the audience cares about deeply. Their performances lend moments of genuine poignancv to Neil Simon's "( hapter Two.." For a starter, there is this set by William Hitman which at first looks awfully precious and cluttered for a New York apartment until Tharon Musser's suitably subtle lighting reveals that it is two apartments: Jennie's on the east side of Manhattan and George's on the west. Only the two hack-to-back settees revolve on a small turntable, but it is enough, with the lighting and action, to establish c 1 ear1y what is happening where And once we see George and Jennie, we know beyond the shadow of a doubt that eventually they will meet, fall in love and find what they need in each other They're just too nice not to. and besides, this is Neil Simon and not one of the tragic dramatists. We also know that once they discover each other, the playwright had better slir up some friction, or what would he do for a second act'.' And. finally, of course, a last- minute makmg-up. with eternal love assured The prelude to their meeting is the best part, engineered by the two other characters, Leo (Cliff Gorman i. Georges brother, and Faye (Ann Wedgeworth i. Jennie's friend This could have been y thunderous cliche, but trust Simon to give it a fresh and credible touch, via a sparkling series of phone calls. Their falling in love is funny and elcgaic at the same time, as each tries to come to terms with the present and past. Simon always is spoken of as a comic writer, which he certainly i.s, but he can write scenes of exquisite tenderness as well. Only when anger and outrage are introduced between the two — generated less by the facts of their lives than by the need to whip up a second act — does the dramatic Creative cooking Beating the stir 'n' fry blues Bv Stenhnnip 7.virin — . By Stephanie Zvirin American Library Assn. During summer, indoor kitchen wizardry may take a back seat to the barbecue, but few cooks can manage to stay out of the kitchen once the weather changes. It's especially nice to note that at least four of this season's bounty of cookbooks have enough novel ideas to make the transition back to "stir 'n' fry" more exciting than usual. Cooking isn't exactly the right word for the recipes in Mary Ix>uise I,au's "The Delicious World of Raw Foods." In fact, she recommends as little of it as possible, concentrating instead on the pleasures, nutritional benefits and flair of raw food cuisine. I-ati has gathered an inviting assortment of international specialties that require little or no cooking — Mexican salsa fria, salmon with vogurt. Middle Eastern kibbeh and steak tartare appear alongside more familiar favorites like oysters and guacamole. Her approach is lively and laced with food facts, chitchat and plenty of serving suggestions. While recipes for vegetables and desserts predictably predominate, I,au furnishes a good variety of suggestions for using' raw meats and seafoods. In addition, recipes test the versatility of uncooked foods as primary ingredients in appetizers, soups, snacks and party fare. A brief catalog of foods that cannot be eaten raw completes this excellent introduction lo a cuisine too often slighted by contemporary cooks. In "A Celebration of Vegetables" Robert Ackart also takes advantage of the wide array of fresh produce now available year-round in the supermarket. His imaginative menu cookbook is well- stocked with complete, meat-free meals organized roughly according to seasonal yields. This veteran cookbook author dishes up recipes for first courses, salads, main dishes, complementary side dishes and a tasty selection of fresh fruit. cheese or fruit-based desserts. THE DELICIOUS WORLD OF RAW FOODS by Mary Louise Lau (Rawson, 300 pages $9 95) A CELEBRATION OF VEGETABLES by Robert Ackart (Atheneum. 320 pages. S10.95) FEARLESS COOKING FOR MEN by Michele Evans (Mason/Charter, 256 pages 59 95) THE NEW YORK TIMES NEW ENGLAND HERITAGE COOKBOOK by Jean Hewitt (Putnam, 300 pages, $8.95) MICHELLE EVAN'S" book, "Fearless Cooking for Men." demystifies cooking for anyone — male or female — interested in mastering preparation techniques as well as enjoying the final product. Ackart deftly avoids the strictly nutritional approach, preferring to emphasize the attractiveness and palatabilily of vegetarian cooking. Preparation is simple enough for timid beginners and results distinctive enough for experienced cooks on the lookout for a change. A number of the dishes can be readied in advance and harried cooks will appreciate the cooking time estimates that precede each recipe U hile the need for a special cookbook for men is debatable, feu can deny that on '.(va.sum. n's nice to be catered to. But Michele Evans accomplishes more than mere flattery in her "Fear- le.s.s Cooking for Men," an attractively designed book thai demystifies cooking for anyone •— male or female — interested in mastering preparation techniques as well as enjoying the final product. Recipes include some of Evans' kitchen- tested own i this is her eighth cookbook i plus favorites from gentlemen cooks and gourmets -- among them actor David Harlmann, novelist Arthur Her/og and Connecticut Senator Lowell Wticker machinery begin to get in the way George might well be haunted by memories of another honeymoon a dozen years ago. when he and Jennie are on theirs Yet the change in him is too abrupt and not consistent with his previous attitude, especially in that he and Jennie obviously had been intimate before they married. Still, it provides the contrasting elements of anger 'Miss Gillette has a rousing mad scene!, confusion (Hirsch! and reconciliation (both). In thai Sinio/i has wrjUefl. and Herbert Ross has directed, the roles of George and Jennie as real people, it diminishes the play that they have treated Leo and Faye — her in particular — more as caricatures. This doesn't imply harsh criticism of the two players, although Miss Wedgeworth might advantageously cut back on the fussy mannerisms. But their principal scene together — an attempted seduction — is too long and too silly for the good of the play. Pruning and restaging there could help, but in light of the almost certain success of "Chapter Two," it probably won't be changed No point in repeating some of the pricelessly funny lines; they never look as good in print anyway. But the dialogue is often hilarious, and for the most part, funny in a way that implements rather than impedes the story. ' NKWSPAI'ER KNTEHPRISE ASSN i 12.9.7; i TAPE NO. 81 CRITIC AT LARGE Norman Nadel Along with some of the usual beginner's tips, Evans provides a handy glossary and sets aside a special section for discussion of the modern kitchen's more sophisticated equipment — the blender, slow cooker, wok, clay pot, food processor and crepe pan — complete with a few recipes especially geared to their use. The author maintains a careful balance between the very basic (baked potatoes) and the gourmet iterrine souzeraine). All courses are adequately covered. Special sections focus on diet and egg dishes, sauces, cooking for kids, breads, pastas and sandwiches, party items and even a few barbecuing recipes — encouraging, informal and appetizing throughout. Jean Hewitt's latest "The New York Times New England Heritage Cookbook" is devoted to the author's home region. Hewitt, the food editor of Family Circle magazine, dips into the culinary history of six northeastern states - Maine, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, Vermont, and New ">n n .? pshire ~ offering over 400 hearty, no-frills recipes each identified by state. ' As you might guess, Hewitt pays special"attention to New England's glorious seafood heritage. And her mouth-watering bakery recipes can help even all- inumbs cooks recapture the vf senc 5 ? f old-time ovens. Marred slightly by an incongruous attempt to include ethnic dishes, Hewitt's tempting foray into regional " ok '"fi is. nonetheless, idea;!' ° f happ>> Cating •NKWSI'AI'KH K.NTKKI'IJISK ASSN , '/J.7-77 iTAI'K No 5, ABOUTBOOKS mayonnaise o; tour cream in place of butter in cooked XXIQ pue i e U3 q6t,r u ° pened °" Jun * 26. 1896, the worlds fint movie house. Admission was 10cents' The best watches have between 120 and 160 parts.
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