The Daily Telegraph from London, Greater London, England • 4

THE DALLY TELEGRAPH SATURDAY AFltlJL VJ 1893 4 DRESS AND FASHION DAILY TELEGRAPH SPECIAL COLUMN JAEGER PURE WOOL CLOTHING Tested for Purity and Durability The Best is the Cheapest Look for Portrait in Trademark JAEGER WEST-END DEPOTS: 3 and 4 PrincaVst Cavendish-q not to the elbow with gloves also not quite reaching it so that there is a hiatus of uncovered arm which however white it may be we do not consider a pretty daylight display on this side of the Channel It gives occasion for coquettish by-play with the tops of long gloves but probably English women will remain content with the familiar business of settling their veils The newest veil and certainly a becoming one is of very fine silk net with a wide diamond-shaped mesh It is finished round the bottom with two narrow lines of corded baby ribbon and has one line at the top Veils are still worn over the whole face We are promised by the prophets who seem bent on saying smooth things a hot summer which if it comes to pass will be a rare treat A remarkably dainty cape seems to have been invented on purpose for such a pleasurable state ot affairs It is light as gossamer and yet so fluffy soft and becoming that it has every fascination for feminine taste It is made of chiffon the collar gathered up into a ruche and the yoke gaged in circular lines to the shoulders whence it falls first in a full frill of chiffon then a deep frill of a new and very silky make of lace dropping down in its turn over a still deeper frill of chiffon reaching to the waist It is much warmer than could be supposed and in the hot une evenings may be worn with perfect safety as a wrap for going to the opera or to stroll on the terrace at Westminster on afternoons when there is a draught from the river or to put carelessly over the shoulders when sitting at Hurlingham eating strawberries and cream anu watching a pony race or a polo match On any of these delightful occasions this chiffon and lace cape which is simply full of fascination will be found not only useful but charmingly ornamental We have reached the end of allotted space and never a word about headgear or sunshades Well there is next Saturday when we will hope to say much of these if the sunshine and the white butterflies in and out through the young green foliage continue to inspire summerlike aspirations for millineric matters under the very Noses of the atturnies and the Administrator catched up a private paper and thrust it into the fire Pretty to see how those learned persons did tell the story of the same in their affidavits most pat to "the purpose and all of them in a tale so that there was no one in the court and hearing them who could not afterwards have rendered a pretty good account of how all happened Yet methinks it would have been better if they had stayed her hand before she burned the paper which would have been no hard matter for men who (God knows) are commonly held to be sharp enough in things pertaining to their calling Mighty strange it did seem to me that three atturnies and an Administrator could not make shift among them to keep a better watch over writings wliich the law had put under their ward but must let themselves be outwitted by so easie a trick It seems that there was one of them standing by the fire when the lady came up to it with the paper in her hand yet made no motion to prevent her while another who knew nought of it till she had destroyed the writing did then say that he must make a note of it which I thought was a mighty insipid manner of speaking seeing that it was his business to have noticed it before When the lawyers had made an end of telling the Court how they had been befooled one that was of counsel for the Duchesse did set forth her own tale mighty pretty and dutiful begging pardon of the Court for that she knew not that it was contempt to burn papers in the custody of the Court which methinks is too great simplicity and disclosing of all that was in that paper how that it was but a letter from the late Duke to her or from her to the late Duke for she seemed not rightly to know which and concerned not herself but others But the judge of that Court was mighty stern with her as not believing her story which indeed is hard to be believed and did go about with her as roundly as ever I heard in my life telling her that he could not pass over so gross a contempt but that she must to prison for six weeks and be amerced in £250 to the Queen And right glad 1 was to hear him speak out thus bold as showing that the Law is no respecter of persons and so I see the people would have it to be for there was no stir among them anywhere or not that 1 saw but all seemed asquiet as though it were but some sempstress or costard-woman who was to be laid by the heels though itcannot be that theyimprison Duchesses every day April To-day I hear that the tipstaff has not yet taken the lady but that she is ill at her country seat which pierhaps is why the people were so quiet as knowing that she would fall sick and not go to gaol after all wasted or not If the smallest fault manifested itself the true craftsman flung the failure aside false one cut a dragon or a Sanskrit letter or two over the blemish The grooves were now chiselled into the sword especially the ehi-nagashi or blood-channel which in the case of spear-lieads would be afterwards filled up with vermilion lacquer A hole was drilled in the tang to receive the mekuyi or bamboo peg holding the handle on and then followed the real and final grinding This was performed by a special handicraftsman Holding the blade horizontally wrapped in cloths and with a small part only bare he rubbed it up and down upon whetstones of varying grit finishing upon a fifteenth stone of very tine grain and afterwards polishing with stone powder and oil It would be at this stage that the beauty and value of the sword came forth There used to be very many Japanese gentlemen and even to-day there are some who could tell instantly upon inspection by the look of a blade in tliis stage who had wrought it Official personages existed who gave governmental certificates of blades written on special paper and stamped The boundary between thehard sharp whitish edge and the grey-blue of the back must not be harsh It must be clouded by nioi misty spots and flecks not regular like drop-marks but fleecy and broken apart like clouds In good steel where the clay covering had slightly come away there would appear tnhi-yaki living isolated specks of soft white The visible grain would look as though the steel were water and it were Whore the tempering had been perfect there would come little points of bright silver along the edge called me only to be seen by the educated eye swords were very full of such It must be an excellent blade if inside and underneath as it were the dark body of it there flickered the utsuri the a glimmer along the dividing line of edge and breast faintly prismatic and resembling the mist round the Only a consummate judge could note and estimate the chikei small films of white the iadzuma or lightning fine shining lines in tiie the sunogashi resembling specks of sand in a row and the uchi-yokr or narrow forge-marks The blade which combined these virtues was fit to sit in the girdle of a Daimio and would be worth from 200 to £'300 twelve to fifteen hundred yen Such a sword was often mounted very splendidly indeed the finest artists lavishing tjieir skill upon the scabbard tsuka the me-nuki or stud upon the handle and above all on the tsubn or hilt which was often enriched with lovely work in gold silver and bronze The scabbard was generally of magnolia wood and ended in a richly-adorned kojiri or ferrule It held at its upper end two small daggers or skewers with pretty handles called These were used in thick of fight to stick through the ear of a slain enemy as a sort of visiting card With such a weapon you could cut through five sheets of copper and not notch the steel and the edge put on it might he so fine that if you held it in a current a stalk of grass floating down would divide upon contact with it Masamune' blades could sever a bar of iron or cut a falling hair in two would slice bronze armour like a The point was not much used but Iyeyasu once for trial put a katana of clean through the iron mortar of his physician immense punctilio attached to the wearing the carriage and the etiquettes of these precious weapons The higher-born you were the more you might stick up the hilts of your two swords but soldiers of lesser degree wore them horizontally Dr Lyman says correctly To draw a sword from its scabbard without begging leave of the others present was not thought polite to clash the scabbard of your sword against another was a great rudeness to turn the sword in the scabbard ns if about to draw was tantamount to a challenge and to lay lery where once stood the Mews and there climbing a part of the way up that staircase we came to a stop It was a place extraordinary good for seeing though I could never have made my way to it for myself and indeed I knew not that Mr Styler was aiming at it so that when those about us asked (as many did) where we were shoving to I had naught to answer them but looked mighty foolish as knowing no more about it than they We stood here a pretty long time with all quiet hut at last did hear some musiek a great way off and after a while a train of men came marching up to the Square with silk flags and streamers of all colours mighty brave But before they could by any means make their way to the foot of the pillar which it seems they were to speak from the men of the opposite faction made at them seizing and tearing their flags and breaking the flagpoles and using the bearers of them so roguishly as did make me almost mad to see Then when the Fanatiques had beaten off two or three trains of men who came marching up they mounted on the stone themselves and the foremost of them was beginning a discourse to the mob when one did push him from behind so that he fell among the people and had like to break his head but that they being closely packed supported him though mighty little to their content for he was of a sizeable person But what did make me most wonder was that the constables though there were many nigh at hand could do nothing being hustled and put back again by the fellows round about them whenever they would have made their way to the fighting And truly it seems but an ill way of governing a great city to give over so publick a place of resort to the riotous and to collect great bodies of men whereof some must needs bo thievish in the neighbourhood of so many goldsmiths vintners and the like as do carry on their trades in this quarter of the town And on my asking Mr Styler whether this was to the mind of the Government he told me that they had a longing to put it down if they had dared but did not for fear of offence to the more turbulent sort of folk whom they had so cockered before they got their offices Going home lie talked more to me of the matter and in particular of the regulation which the Minister had made and how none were to hold a meeting in the square save by the license of the head constable which I hear had been given to those poor rogues who were so mishandled by the fanatiques But for breaking up a meeting it seems no notice is required which methinks is a fault in the regulations April 9 Day) Lay long in bed reading the joumalls which Mrs Pickings brought up to me and pleased myself mightily in marking what was said of doings hi the square He that writ it saw vastly more of what happened than 1 did and 1 wonder if he saw all that he writ Afternoon to church in the Strand where a good and painfull sermon though short as they mostly are in these days so that a man scarce has time to settle himself and cross hislegs before the Blessing Afterwards it now being late and I sharp-set to a tavern to supper wliich I could not get till six and then the place almost empty But a good meal when I did come by it and drank a quart of small ale smaller than was to be had anywhere in the world as 1 remember it but it is so nowadays I think with all drinks so that perhaps without the fanatiques they will one day disappear by themselves Home at eight to bed after a (lull day April 10 Tip and to Mr having promised myself that I would go with him to the Tower but met with so devilish a wind that I was fain to take my morning draught before reaching his house It was of hot Geneva with lemons which I do always take now in the morning instead of the piut of spiced sack which 11 i J1L 01 3d encircles the waist passes under the net blouse front and falls in a long bow and ends on to the train behind Another dress has the skirt of mauve satin covered entirely with marvellous point de Bruges To wear with this is a Louis XV vest of a new bluish mauve mirror velvet shot with silver and embroidered in scroll pattern all round with mauve silks and jet An antique waistcoat of cream satin worked with quaint old-time flowerets is ornamented with a collar band to match and a jabot of old lace completes a very effective and picturesque coat One of the most perfect of all the toilettes is an afternoon gown of moire nacree or a pearl-grey inoir6 antique shot with faint blue and pale pink that give an iridescent effect to the rich material The rather full skirt that falls in heavy folds at the back is trimmed with a broad flounce of magnificent V7 enice point laid on flat the edging of the lace set waistwards a narrow flounce of the same lace falls round the feet while a band of aurora velvet pearl and gem embroidered forms intersection The corsage of moiriS has a narrow basquine of lace and is trimmed in 1830cape style the revers of lace enframing a soft front ofshot silk muslin drawn down under a narrow waistband of gem-scattered mirror velvet of which narrow bretelles finishing in loops just below the waist back and front are also made A parasol of plain moirfi accompanies this admirable gown with which a dainty capote of pearl embroidered gold late willbe worn wreathed with soft-toned carnations in yellow and pink and from the centre of which rises an aigrette of pale blue and pale pink feathers tied on by strings of shot velvet matching the dress trimming A deep cape of moire with over-cape of lace and yoke of gem-embroidered velvet complete this exquisite toilette A light and diaphanous garden-party gown is of dead white silk muslin or linon-de-soie embroidered to the knees with multicoloured Marguerites of old-time chenille scattered along waving lines of gold and made over Ophelia mauve satin The corsage flou or softly draped has full sleeves of mauve velvet and a sash to match With this a cape of embroidered linon matches the dress shirred over mauve chiffon only and is surmounted by a foamy and diaphanous arrangement of mauve chiffon chiffonmS into a charming little upper collet A dress that was most admired and destined to the Dowager Queen of Portugal is of thickly-ribbed silver-grey Ph6bus silk The hem ornamentation or a deep bias of grey velvet embroidered in Louis XV bow design is cut out and applied on to the silk and worked with threads beads and spangles in silver and steel This trimming also outlines the deep cape that accompanies the dress and forms a collar round the neck beneath a full ruching of velvet lined with white satin The corsage is very simple and elegant and is made of the thickly-ribbed silk with shawl-shaped revers of the bow-embroidered velvet thrown back from a front of white chiffon and a jabot of okl rose point The full sleeves are of Phftms while the lower portions thereof tightly fitting from elbow to wrist are of velvet embroidered with the true knot design By AN ENGLISH EXPERT The outlook for the season so far as dress is concerned is now opened out to almost its fullest extent No doubt special things will be prepared for special occasions but general lines are now laid down and so far as we can learn give the greatest satisfaction on all scores save that of cost for it may not be denied dress is dearer than ever It is perhaps prettier than ever also but the styles of to-day are such as can only be successful when carried out with great skill and taste It is not sufficient only to make well but it is necessary to be a colourist and in that to study effect with respect to individuals It is by no means enough to get together several combinations in themselves satisfactory since in colour even more than in style what suits one woman may make ten others appear at tlieir very worst It is satisfactory to know that skirts are not so wide as they were earlier in the year and that they are not now being lined half-way up the back with stiffened material indeed the inartistic swing given to them by this contrivance has been voted bad style by our best dressers The inspiration for what is decidedly one of the smartest combinations and one which piomises to be most popular has apparently been taken from the chestnut and its parent tree Some lovely gowns are in chestnut-brown trimmed with silk or satin of green like the foliage of the chestnut tree while a little embroidery introduced on a creamy background at onoe suggests the spiral bloom associated with those grand old avenues in Bushey Park which promise to be ready for our inspection a great deal earlier than usual this year A favourite material is a very coarsely-crinkled crepon It looks exceedingly well made up with satin which promises to go on for ever so far as being extensively used for trimming gowns is concerned while many of the smartest dinner anil ball dresses are entirely made of it A pretty way of arranging the bands round a skirt is in a kind of cwfil begun and ended with a bow There is much to be considered in the matter of these very bands since they can be managed by a clever modiste so as to give a look of added height and even of added slimness while in some cases it is well to avoid them altogether and select some one of the other ways of skirt trimming which are equally up to date if not so effective A small woman divided by broad bands into throe sections and a bodice simply proclaims aloud 1 am not as other and dwarfs herself defiantly though there are half a dozen other arrangements which would add to rather than take from her appearance of height Fawn colour holds its otvn and as it is soft and harmonises well with several of the popular and brilliant hues it is likely to do so throughout the season A charming day dress is in a very light diagonal twill homespun in a pale shade of fawn It is made with lines of dark blue and fawn embroidery round the cuffs and bodice wffiich is finished with a particularly pretty folded vest of dark blue satin while the hem is done round with three small frills of blue satin entirely without fulness and headed by a band of embroidery It is an afternoon frock of the most stylish description of costly simplicity Green is as much in fashion as we predicted it would be and the shades are most lovely One of the newest is ehrysoprase-green It will perhaps interest our readers to know that the Queen of Italy (the Pearl of Savoy as the poetic warm-hearted Italians love te call her) wears to-day on the occasion of her silver wedding a beautiful white satin gown combined with chrysoprase-green shot miroir-velvet and embroidered with pearls in a most graceful festooned design Her bonnet which is to be a favourite one here through the season is of the velvet the shape is with a flat folded toque-like crown having a large bow of the new Italian ecclesiastical lace in front and with festoons of small pearls all round the brim caught up with little bars of emeralds The Queen wears several beautiful costumes throughout the festivities in honour of the silver wedding This is the day dress for the event itself Chrysoprase-green is to be used a great doal for trimming evening gowns and in miroir-velvet it has almost the same soft charm as in the stone itself which is now having such a turn in popularity It is however not a novelty as her Majesty the Queen has several old-jewelled ornaments in connection with Royal ancestresses in which it appears One of the cleverest and most becoming evening gowns prepared by a milliner whose delight it is to be in the first ranks of novelty as regards her productions is of pure white rich satin The feature is the bodice which is fashioned with infinite skill of one large soft bow of mirvir velvet in a sunset glow of indis-cribable colour The becomingness cannot be realised without seeing the gown on and imitation which is not the most gratifying kind of flattery will be almost impossible of accomplishment since the bow bodice is a speciality requiring an individual education for its successful production The trimming round the hem in a series of bojvs is another feature of this exquisite dress not easily imitated The idea of wearing blouses of bright delicate colour over dark skirts has been so elaborated as to form some of the very prettiest dresses for the coming season A skirt of black grenadine trimmed with three triple rows of narrow black satin ribbon has a bodice of pale pink chiffon accordion pleated in the finest possible way This is strapped down at intervals of a few inches with bands of black insertion the collar is finished with a rather wider band and the sleeves are in three deep puffs of chiffon with insertion between each Nothing daintier cooler or lighter-looking and withal more becoming could be devised for young girls and the successful future of these delightful bodices is a thing assured Again we have to say that they must be most skilfully handled since were the insertion bands not exquisitely fitted and the under-bodice not of the best shape and cut the effect would be blowsa-bella-like in the extreme Many of the gowns are being made again this season with sleeves only to the elbow We are not very likely to follow the example of some of our French sisters and wear them a EAST AM) WEST Bt SIR EDWIN arxold COPYKIGHT THE SWORI) OF JAPAN A great Shogun of Japan the famous Iveyasu left it written in his testament that the girded sword is the life of the Samnrai The sword was indeed even more than this in ancient Japan It became the central point in the morals and customs of the land the badge of honour and the token of chivalry a special and sacred weapon around which grew up the grave punctilious manners of the lords and knights of Dai Nippon whose politeness polished but rigid as the steel they bore had to be imitated and was imitated by the lesser people The civilisation of a country always crystallises round a few fundamental habits of that country The manners and morals of Japan may all be traced to the sword the teacup and the paper house The first has made the people serious fearless punctilious in mutual demeanour the second has created their identical habits their sobriety and sociability hile those perfectly transparent abodes common throughout Japan where secrets are have forced upon them a Greek simplicity of domestic behaviour with a modesty naturalness and absence of 7nauraise hante unparalleled elsewhere The sword has been now for ever laid aside in public by the gentlemen ef Japan obeying in this with wonderful good sense a sudden and difficult edict But the signs of its ancient cult sit deep to this hour in the minds and ways of the people and it may be wurth while to speak a little of the bygone importance of the Japanese sword The sword-maker who forged the finer blades for the Samurai and Daimio the Barons and Knights was no mere blacksmith He ranked indeed first of all craftsmen in the land and was often appointed lord or vice- lord of a province He did not enter on his grave duties lightly When he had a blade to make for a great Japanese gentleman the Katanya abstained for a whole week from all animal food and strong drink he slept alone and poured cold water every morning over his head When the forge was ready (and no woman might so much as enter its precincts) ami when the steel bars were duly selected he rej 'aired to the Temple and prayed there devoutly Then he came back to his anvil and furnace and hung above them the consecrated straw -roe shime-naiea and the clippings of paper "hei) which kept away evil spirits He put (n the dress of a court noble ith the e-toshi and kamishimo tying back his long sleeves with a silk cord Only after many ceremonies when the five elements fire water wood metal and earth were well conciliated would that pious artisan take his hammer in hand The blade was beaten out of steel alone mnku-gitai the or of steel blended with iron Great heed as taken to have good and cii-smelted material Each time before the smith placed his bar in the bed of glowing charcoal which an apprentice blew to white heat he coated it with a paste of clay and straw ashes so as not to burn the naked metal and never touched it with the hand hot or cold since sweat would spoil the weld and leave a blur on the steel When he had beaten out his bar 8in long 2Jin wide and in thick he bent it midway beat it out again to the same dimensions thus folding and re-hammering it some fifteen or twenty times As the original bar was in four tlakes Dr Lyman in his admirable treatise on the subject calculates that at the fifteenth hammering there would be 131072 layers increased by five following bendings to 4194304 layers This careful repetition gave the metal a texture like ivory or satin-wood They had names for the different watering so produced as and Afterwards the blade was forged down to its full length the imperfect ends cut off the point drawn out and the tang fitted on upon which came the tempering But these last processes were very serious and the sword forger sate alone and solemnly sang to himself while he gave to the weapon its final fashionings They say that the difference between the swords of Masamune and of Muramasa two famous craftsmen was due to their singing A Masamune blade brought victory and luck everywhere A Muramasa sword was always leading its owner into quarrels though it carried him through them well and it would cause accidents and cut the fingers of friendly folks inspecting it being never willing to go back to its scabbard without drinking blood The real reason was so runs the legend that Muramasa while he sate at his work in the forge was ever singing a song which had the chorus of tenka tairan tenka tairnn which means trouble in the world trouble in the hereas Masamune the gentle and lucky sword maker always chanted while he worked tenka taihei wliich signifies peace be on earth Japanese people of the old days firmly believed that both the kindly words and the unkindly got somehow welded into the very spirit of the steel so that blades prevented quarrels or brought to their wielders a quick victory while Muramasa 's had in them a lurking instinct for doing mischief a sort of itch to hurt and wound All sorts of tales wi re told to illustrate this There was a splendid sword of Muramasa which had killed by hara-kiri four of its possessors in succession Once too when the Shogun was handling a spear-head embedded in a helmet of one of his ruriors the point wounded his august hand See he said what is the mark upon this accursed iron for it must be And when they came to look at the maker's mark it was indeed a spear-head from the grim sword-maker's who had chanted the thirst for blood into his yari and katana Some of the very famous sword-forgers would never write their lames or make any sign at all upon their productions It is enough to try a blade of said Toshiro Moshimitsu will tell you of itself who made Some of the inferior craftsmen engraved dragons gods and flowers upon their blades but the best work does not hear such ornaments which might hide an imperfection in the metal All however except such men as Toshiro and Masamune would cut into the tang the name and date of the sword and the and name Swords had appellations and might be christened with such titles as Osvraku or Hiru On a long sword noted by Dr Lyman the inscription ran Matte shisvbeshi Matte ikubeshi" Defend yourself with me die with But when the blade had been forged and shaped whether it were the straight tsurani or the tachi and katana earn ed into the lines of the falcon's or the cormorant's it had to be very carefully and skilfully tempered The Japanese sword-smiths effected at one operation what Euroean craftsmen do in two namely the high annealing of the edge and the low tempering of the bodv of the blade Thev covered it with sabi-dnmA paste of red earth and charcoal and then before this hardened they drew the paste away from a narrow streak along the edge afterwards putting it into the fiercest part of tile lire ei heedfullv did the smith move the precious sword up and down in the pinc-eoais till he saw the proper colour come 1 JonTwimKv nl near the tang which would be a few minutes Ti: 11 it was plunged in water of a certain tem- perature wliich thing in itself was a crest secret state the a renowned swords- mitli bought the knowledge of that precious mystery dear His master taught him everything else except this matter of the right heat of the tempering hath so watching his opportunity he broke into the forge one day and plunged his hand into the water just as the master was dijiping a reddened blade into it The master smote the audacious member oft' there and then with the unfinished sword but Katate knew his last trade-secret The fire which burned the bared edge violet left the une or body of the blade blue or straw-colour and being plunged into the water the sudden chill turned the former very hard but brittle making the latter tongh anil The edge so obt-iin ca there tube too muen breadth of would ueoessariiy be brittle Then was the cold blade carefully cleaned and rough-ground and at this stage the smith could know whether his rk must be 30 Piccadilly 30 Sloane-st 456 Strand (nr Trafalgar-sq) AEGER CITY DEPOTS and 43 Fore-st (nr oorjjate Station): 158 Fenchurch-st (nr Lime-st) 85 and 86 Chaapside (nr King-st) AEGER PURE WOOL CLOTHING Cool in Summer Warm in Winter Permanent Protection from Chill Illustrated Catalogue and Health Culture" 188 pp fre 7AUKENPHAST CLACK KID BOOTS and SHOES Goods AUKENPHAST GENTLEMEN'S TOUR BOOTS Two designs All AY AUKENPHAST fancy goods and WEDDING ORDERS Hand TAUKENPHAST (Limited 60 ilayioarket SW Sew AYII King Winiam-atreet KC 453 Oxford-street IRST-CLASS PLATE and JEWELS ENGAGEMENT KINGS DIAMOND ORNAMENTS Ac SPINK and SON First-class plate nd jewels Choicest and newest designs Special! selected stones SPINK and SON IRST-CLASS PLATE and JEWELS Moderate Cash Prices With 10 percent discount SPINK and SON ITHRST-CLAisS PLATE and JEWELS PRESENTATION SILVER Antique or modern SPINK and SON I IRST-CLASS PLATE and JEWELS Iarge stock of SECONDHAND SILVER prices from 3s 9d ounce SPINK and SON Iirst-class plate and jewels SPINK and SON Goldsmiths and Silversmiths 1 and Gracechurch-street Cornhill KC and 17 and 18 Ficrjdilh London (close to the Circus) Established 1772 Under the patronage of II the Queen and the Most Hon the Marquis of Lome KT Ac A A CHILLE serre NETTOYAGE A SEC CHILLE SERRE Dyeing and Cleaning seem to have been reduced to a fine art at the establishment of Achilla Serre 263 Oxford-street torial A CHILLE SERRE Now however all that one has to do is to send it to A rhille Serre who will clean it by his Nettovagea Sec process in about a week and send it home looking equal to new as regards colour and all without the bother of The Gentlewoman A CHILLE SERRE After London fogs and winter darkness household renovating as well as dress is a necessity and we cordially recommend our readers to apply to Achilie The Queen A CHILLE SERRE HIGH-CLASS DYER and CLEANER CHILLE SERRE 263 OXFORD-ST 5 QUEEN-ST CHKAPSIDE EG And many Branches TR PECIAL SHOW of 091 MANTLES and JACKETS 1 091 CHILDREN'S MANTLES and JACKETS i 091 MANTLES and JACKETS From 5s llid to 21s 9d MONDAY NEXT April 24 And THREE FOLLOWING DAYS 1091 MANTLES and JACKETS In Plain and Fancy Cloths From 5s to 21s 9d ROBERTS Is now showing in MI LI TR' ISLINGTON NEW FASHIONS in MILLINERY NEW FASHIONS in MANTLES NEW FASHIONS in COSTUMES Choicest Selection of DRESS MATERIALS from the Best Markets of the World ROBERTS UPPER-STREET ISLINGTON YEARS SUCCESS proves that JL MACASSAR OIL Kalydor and Odonto are the best and safest toilet articles for the use of ladies and everybody MACASSAR OIL preserve nd beautifies the hair prevents it falling off or turning grey eradicates scurf and dandruff and is also sold in a golden colour for fair-haired children and ladies Bottle 3s 6d 7s 10s 6d equal to four small MACASSAR OIL MACASSAR OIL MACASSAR OIL MACASSAR OIL KALYDOR preserves and beaotite the complexion during Springtime is warrantod harmless and lias a most soothing healing and curative effect on the skin prevents and removes freckles tan sunburn redness and roughness and all cutaneous defects and is most cooling and soothing to the face of invalid: who suffer from parched burning or dry Battles 2s 3d and 4s 6d KALYDOR KALYDOR ODONTO a pure fragrant and no- gritty Tooth Powder free from injurious acids or astringents it whitens the teeth prevents decay and sweeten the 2s 9d ODONTO ARTICLES are sold all the and by A Rowland and Sons 20 Hatton-garden London Avoid injurious imitations of Macassar Oil Kalydor and Odonto being the only pure and genuin sold under these names PHILHARMONIC SOCIETT overture stood in the forefront of Thursday evening's programme and if itdid not dwarf everything behind it the fact was owing to the discretion tvhich took care that there should be no chance of fair comparison The monarch of dramatic preludes has gone past the stage of eulogy no less completely than it has made hopeless the idea of a rival But the wonder and the mystery of that mighty work remain It is an unsolvable riddle old yet ever new in that the question it puts comes always with fresh force of contrast between the limit of our apprehension and the vast scope of the musical argument It is no small thing to play the Leonora well but the credit of doing so has again and again been earned at the Philharmonic Concerts under various conductors Not the least successful effort was that directed by Dr Mackenzie on Thursday evening Mendelssohn Italian symphony followed and the audience were required to change the passion of the overture stress of joy as well as of agony for the mingled mirth and melancholy of the later work How is it that even those of us who carried away by specious reasoning and a desire to be in the front rank of advancing opinion look askance at Mendelssohn never hear his masterpieces without an uneasy consciousness of error somewhere Take this bright and beautiful record of Italian impressions its sunny lights and pensive shades its graceful melodic figures and transparent atmosphere The work is a fact not to be reasoned away by sneering at a composer (imaginary) in kid gloves No the master-hand is felt the living hand strong warm and sensitive Such music will endure or if not we may look for all the sweet and tender sounds of nature to pall upon the ear The performance of the symphony was excellent its most prominent feature perhaps bring the unusually slow tempo of the so-ealled March On this matter we do not quarrel with Dr discretion It rather ccemed to us that the sweet saduess characteristic of the movement gained in eff ect by the change Of course there is no question of a March at ail the Andante as played laat night seemed just such music as one would like to hear under the crumbling walls of Rome near the graves Keats and Shelley The Concerto was Chopin's in minor SapellnikofT as pianist On the occasion of this artist I previous appearance at a Philharmonic Concert we entered a decided protest against an undue exhibition the hard physical labour to which so many pianoforte players condemn themselves There is no occasion for a word of remonstrance now the performance being as free from every form of exaggeration as one could wish It was thoroughly in the school of the most refined and sensitive of masters The pure lcgaw of the cantabile the delicately-shaded expression the crispness of the decorative passages which seemed to use a well-worn simile like a rain of pearls these an other features scarcely less prominent made the rendering of Chopin one to be remem bored the orchestra was in full sympathy with the soloist-Crude and elementary as the score may be it has some charming effects and we have rarely heard them well brought out as was the case last night In slow movement the band almost touched perfection Some movements from Mr Edward German music to Henry ended the concert and therefore Lad a disadvantageous place We cannot treat the selection Overture Intermezzo Funebre an three Dances as a novelty but the music wai I far better heard than is possible in a theatre an i it deciM-ued the general conviction that Mr German a man ith a distinguished future There is jower his music mastery of subject and of technical together with no small measure of individual troug aud expression The symphony he is now writing tor the Norwich Festival cannot fail to excite great in rest as the time for its performance draws near Marie Brema sang in place of Miss Palliser indisposed aud did her work in a fashion somew too strenuous British Coji hu Agency from Victoria BCi April 20 stat Provincial Minister of Ed 'cation a here this morning for England i the Province of British Columbia al Imperial Institute he I nited St for the delimitation of tl arrived here and are now makiu with the members of the anadiau Con-m entering upon their labours- DRESS AND FASHION DAILY TELEGRAPH SPECIAL COLUMN JIBERTY and CO JIBERTY and CO'S NOVELTIES FOR FASHIONABLE and ECONOMIC DRESSES Beautiful and 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REGENT-STREET SEASON SPECIALITIES In all DEPARTMENTS RICH MATERIALS for COURT TRAINS Ac WHITE COURT DRESS MANTLE MILLINERY and GENERAL OUTFITTING ESTABLISHMENT REGENT-STREET PECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT 10 ALL LADIES Interested the ART OF DRESSING with Perfect taste and strict economy Write for ILLUSTRATED EPITOME of RESS and Post free NEW SPRING DRESS FABRICS Specially designed NEW WHIPCORD SERGES In Navv and Black DUNOON SERGES In Navv and Black INCOMPARABLY the BUST VALUE EVFR OFFERED Full sets of Pattern' with Prices post free APPER SON and CO Limited Linen Drapers to the Queen and to the Prince of Wale 63 and (iracechur- treet Ixaidon EC Established 114 years ago ARSHA1L and SNELG ROVE OYELTIES and SPECIALITIES IF LOUSES and SHIRTS Just received from Paris some new designs suita evening and day wear PARASOLS OMBRE SATIN and OMBRE MOIRE Various handles LOVES AUSTRIAN TAN four button? 2s 6d per pan- FRENCH GLACE KID excellent quality 2s 1 pair Silks The largest and best assorted stock in London ARSHALL and SXELGROVE A per VERE-STREET OXFORD STREET I)1 5S TRUNKS Of DREWS NEW PATENT WOOF) FIBRE Wrv durable verv right in ght Bp And horn- use and And ho: Also Ill Of REWS EN ROUTE TEA and LUNCHEON BASKET The Queen sa- They are necessity to ever laly who DREW 33 Piccadiliy-circus MODISTES AND MILLINERS By A FRENCH EXPERT Judging from the smartest and newest dresses donned by our elegantes there appears to be little if any danger of the much and deservedly cried-down crinoline making its reappearance amongst us Indeed the tendency towards very voluminous skirts seems to be slightly on the decrease their width not encroaching upon more than five metres at most and although there has been no regulation measurement given out by the leading houses it begins to look as though Frenchwomen would not adhere to exaggeration in this latest mode The skirts had however one distinct advantage They were easily knocked up at home and at times most successfully but the bell-skirt is not so easy-going and refuses to look pleasant when treated by unskilful or unpractised hands The new attempted by a novice is a thing neither of beauty- nor of joy and as every woman has not the means of going to a first-rate cutter here and there we get treated to a somewhat ludicrous exhibition although be it mentioned ent re parentheses very few Frenchwomen have their clothes made at home unless they command the services of an intelligent and skilful femme 1e chamhre or have found that rara avis of a daily workwoman of talent who usually commands her five francs per day The petite cmitnriere is quite an important personage with French ladies of fashion and to these modest makers is entrusted the care of copying models that have originally issued from the leading houses In this way also ladies who have not long purses are oftentimes quite as well dressed as their richer sisters because the former have friends who lend them skirts corsages or any other article of attire for the purpose of having them copied by their own dressmaker and the result is practically the same with a difference in expenditure of perhaps something like 75 per cent Thanks to the fidelity- of beaming okl Sol all fashionable raiment is as fresh and spruce as the flowers and leaves on the chestnut trees but despite the radiance of the weather that should suggest very light colours 1 have noted quite recently a decided return towards sable clothing and by that 1 mean black satin black crepon black chiffon or black grenadine trimmed with guipure either of a similar colour or with bie or term dentclie tie Bruges in narrow edgings or attractively decorated with lace insertion to match A very pretty and ladylike example of this kind worn at the llippique on Monday was of plain anil finely-crinkled black crepon the skirt formed of three bias flounces each one finished with a finger edging of ecru guipure The very pretty corsage was of minutely pleated black chiffon rows of iScrn entredeux forming stripes down the front and back The sleeves very full to the elbow were of the narrowly aceordcon silk muslin braceleted with black satin A satin waistband tied in a smart bow at the side completed this exquisite little dress with which one of the new black tulle Pierrot frills around the neck and an equally new Harlequin hat were worn The Harlequin sometimes dubbed Polichinello at others the Napoleon I inasmuch as the shape vaguely reminds one of the Grand Little bicorne is the most popular hat of the present moment It is made of paille turned up back and front and with tw-o cute little points coquettislily projecting a few inches above either ear Upon these points two small rosettes of black satin are placed and above the forehead as though securing the brim to the crown rises a dashing panache of black tips from a chou of satin The description no doubt suggests to the a somewhat grotesquely original chapeau but such is not the case as these siart little shapes are mostly worn in quiet and becoming black the trimmings corresponding A remarkable fact also is that they are most suitable to almost every style of face One of the leading houses where Madame Carnot often orders dresses although that lady en bonne presidente does not confine her choice to one or two establishments only has just completed some magnificent gowns in fact quite trousseaux for two handsome and much-esteemed European sovereigns Dona Maria-Pia mother of the King of Portugal and Queen Mar-gherita of Italy who will celebrate her silver wedding next week and who looks I am told just as handsome and scarcely older than on the morning upon which she was united to her Royal spouse King Umberto The regal clothing previous to packing was shown privately on Tuesday from eleven till four and during that time the handsome gallery in which the dresses were exhibited was thronged with eager visitors all anxious to see and admire the really marvellous creations that courted the gaze on every side Dona Maria-Pia who is still in half mourning for her late husband has numerous beautiful dresses but they "are either black grey or mauve trimmed exquisitely with lace and embroidered or spangled with jet or steel The lovely robe she will wear at the Quirinal on the occasion of the noces d'argent is made of black velvet let in with panels and front of rich white satin and entirely embroidered over with golden thread and spangles in artistic and very charming design picked out with small faceted cabochons like deep-toned topazes The low-necked corsage with full sleeves of white satin embroidered in gold ha a pointed front and back of satin and sides of velvet embroidered in similar manner A deep bertha of em- broidered white satin edged with spangles enframes the diScolletage Another beautiful gown for the same Royal lady is of mirror-grey satin brocaded with the Prince of Wales's feathers in a very large pattern The narrow side panels are of mauve satin covfered almost entirely by a wonderful work of embroidery or a design of raised flowers and leaves in wee mauve and white shaded ribbon embroidery accompanied by pearls and silver beads and this trimming wanders gracefully over on to both sides of the soft and handsome brocade and strays about in artistic fashion that is very fascinating The corsage of brocade embroidered to match has pelerine arrangements over the shoulders of a deep-toned and is a mighty trouble to get and this but or 4d which is good cheap as compared with the other Found Mr Barlow up yet would he not go with me to the Tower by reason of the east wind whereof he held very high language saying with many lusty words that it had blown for six weeks and that it had caused him to lie troubled in his liver Many have said the like to me of late and some do so take the weather to heart that it is to me wonderful Not but vvliat it is extraordinary cold for the time of year and the sky at times so dull with the wind that it is hard for a man to persuade himself it is not December Yet that it should pen him up within door (unless he he sick abed) is extream strange though it is so 1 hear with great store of people and 1 must think it is because there be so many meddlesome and pragmatical fools nowadays who do set men against their morning draught Stayed over midday with Mr Barlow when he begged mo to dinner with him and did send to the tavern for a broiled steak of beef mighty juicy as ever I had in my life He brought out some old Portugal wine wliich he said was a cure for the east wind and we did make very merry drinking it together and talking over the affairs of the State till Mr Barlow began to be overcome So home and on my way back I thought the weather had turned warmer April 11 Lay in bed till past noon for it seems that the cast wind had made my head ake In the afternoon comes Mrs Pickings with a cup of tea and with something in it but what 1 know not only that she said poor soul that it would do me good ns indeed I think it has Yet the wind still sitting in the same quarter 1 would not adventure out April 12 To the theatre with Styler on this night where a masquerade which did please me more than anything I have ever seen since I came back from the other world The playhouse so noble that it would be worth while coming to see were there nothing else for it would be easie to put the King's and the Duke's Theatres both together inside it and yet have room to spare Por the show it was the rarest past compare that ever 1 saw both for the number of the masquers and the bravery of their dresses so that those even of the Court in my own time were poor mean things beside it Stayed two or three hours mightily content and could have remained there yet longer but that Styler did carry me to sup with him at liis club And loth I was to go for it seemed as if there were no end to the number of new disguises many of them the strangest in til- world Almost together 1 did see a devil and a fisherman and a savage walking and dancing with the rest and all so taken off to the life that it did my heart good to see The fineries and falbalas extraordinary handsome and they themselves or many of them mighty pretty such as had their vizards off and I could not but think how my wife would have pleased herself looking at all the brave dresses But perhaps to look at them would have scarce contented her and Styler did tell that the wearers of them are at heavy charges for their use so I know not but that it is best as it is It w'ill rejoice her to hear about it when I go back though it will be hard for her to believe as it is for me that be who leads this masquerade is only a private citizen and not appointed to the work by the State hen Styler did speak of him as Sir Augustus I doubted not but that he was Master of the Revels or perhaps Lord Chamberlain himself and had been so knighted but it seems that he got the honours otherwise and that he provides these noble shows but to please the publick And truly it is a great thing to think that there should be those who can and will give such delight to their fellow-citizens as this masquerade did give to me For others I cannot as well speak for in truth I saw no one anywhere as full of content as I was myself Rather they seemed to me even the most bravely attired among them to go about somewhat sadly and one that I watched dancing did look metheught as though he were in disgrace Another I saw in the dress ot my own day though not so fine as my white suit with the silver lace who was leading out a mighty pretty lady as pretty as my Lady Castlemaine herself to the dance and all so like what 1 remember that Styler Your weapon on the floor and kick the guariL 1 -1 1 1 towards another was an intolerable insult that generally resulted in a combat to the Pfoundes says that the rules of observances connected with the wearing of the long and sin a sword or the sin gle sword were most minute but have fallen into disuse In former days the most trivial breach of these elaborate observances was often the cause of murderous brawls and dreadful reprisals To express a wish to see a sword was not usual unless when a blade of great value was in question and then a request to be shown it would be a compliment appreciated by the happy possessor The sword would then be handed with the back towards the guest the edge turned towards the owner and the hilt to the left the guest wrapping the hilt either in the little silk napkin always carried by gentlemen in their girdle-books or in a sheet of clean paper The weapon was drawn from the scabbard and admired inch by inch but not to the full length unless the owner pressed his guest to do so and then with much apology the sword was entirely drawn and held away from the other poisons present Alter being admired it would if apparently necessary be carefully wiped with a special cloth sheathed and returned to the owner as A guest on entering a house if the host was an older man or of higher rank would take off his longer sword and cither lay it down at the entrance or hand it to the servant who admitted him who would thereupon place it on the sword-rack in the position of honour in the apartment If on somewhat familiar or equal terms with the host the guest might carry the long sword into the house detached with its scabbard from the belt and lay it on the floor at his right hand where it could not be drawn The shorter sword was retained in the girdle but in a prolonged visit both host and guest laid that also aside These high manners of the steel bred that Japanese courtliness and chivalry which have survived it The cult of the katana is now for ever at an end in Dai Nippon the Samurai and Lords of the Land have laid aside their proudly cherished weapons and go abroad as peacefully as the Akinth the merchant Yet there are fine swordsmen still to lie found among the quietest of the senators and lieges and I have myself seen wonderful things (lone by some of them with ancient blades Moreover the measured speech the deep and heedful reverence the silent dignity the instincts of manhood which clustered round the steel are still characteristic of the race and the swords though no longer worn are proudly anil carefully preserved in man' a mansion castle and temple Thucydides says that the nation which carries iron is and under that remark the United States where almost everybody seems to possess and carry a revolver would stand condemned But Japan by a wonderful effort of abnegation on the part of her upper classes altogether laid aside twenty years ago the old and perilous habit of going abroad with a girdle full of swords and daggers It was a noble submission to new ideas yet to this day a Japanese gentleman raises your sword to his forehead and bows deeply before he examines it Nor will he uncover a single inch of the shining and sacred steel without gravely obtaining your permission and that of the company present IN THE PALACE OF TRUTH By TRAILL copyright 1 FEPYS UP TO DATE April 7 Comes Mr Styler to tell me that there is to be a meeting to-morrow at Cliaring-cross of such as are most set against the Drink Bill and that if 1 had a mind he would carry me with him to see it and the sport which as he thiuks wiU come of For ifc seems tllere is I tlk of lk lleal Fanatiques sour-visaged fellows that will not drink themselves nor 1 suffer their neighbours who thev sav will qbe Square to-morrow before those that shuld meet have got there and so i 1 tall upon them and beat them as thev come up a I And 1 am to wth who thtso matters an understanding man and see whatever may befall but shall go very plain i as he advises not in my water-tabby coat and 1 shall leave mv watch and the more part of my money behind me at mv lodging Yet methinks it is strange that among those who are for help- ing us all to make the laws and would mend our manners for us cutpurses and the like should be so plenty April 8 Forth with Styler at three of the clock he having tablets with him and what he did ail his which it seem is a st knobby as I did ever see maie i- us both very morrv And so to the t5 litre win-re already a press of people so I great as I could not stir though the hour for 1 the meeting was yet not near come but Styler presently bidding me lay hold of the it walking cane as in my life and the lappel of his coat we made shift to force a way I to the steps in front of the great Picture Gal- to make merry and take up their stand mv clothes so common was she of carriage while as for the man he did wear his periwig as though he were ashamed of it and his sword as though he would fain ride it as a child rides his walking cane and all with a face so sad and sharaefast that I could scarce forbear from laughing And so home wondering much whither all the grace and chearfulness of this people have fled April 18 Up and to the Court of Probate where was already a great crowd gathered to hear what was to be done in the matter of the Duchesse of Sutherland and her contempt of that Court And truly it was as high a carrying of things as ever I heard and did show me that women are as bold and braving of the law when ing ornamented by a large bow of grey it is not to their liking as ever they were and i powdered with pearls and spangles the great among them even more so For I For the beautiful Queen of Italy there is a scarce know whether any of them in my own 1 ball dress of lime-green satin entirely covered time even a Duchesse would have taken by a light veiling of net spangled over entirely upon her to outface the Courts as it with gold and with a ruching of satin en-seems that this lady hath done who framing the shoulders A sash of lime satin rich old lace the front of the square-ent open- satin.