The Sun from New York, New York • Page 26

IBf THE sTOTrflttNPAV, MfecH Sj 188tj. II KV MMM aw ssssn BHB IN SILK AM) i CLOTH. lH omo Grtaintio3 About the I Hi Spring Fashions, iHf 111 GROWING COST OF DRESS. ill IMHU New Embroideries Which Arc iH Beautiful and Also Expensive. ILnMVM lottlarfli Mnlntnln Thrlr Superiority for lluHj I.

Summer AVrnr Tndrtni llnrrcd Out by jiHl the Soft, Clinging KftecU Iteqtilred Ilnr- liSrBi I man; In Linn of the New Contunie. IImW PnrU Suggestions of Vnthlon Shape nnil PlfflE I the New Deeorn-tilUKt tlom Now in Vogue Pre-einlnenee of If llslfi doffn for Spring Vie New lllfniKi Ideas for the l'nvorltc Milrt Wnlita. RaJiulli. Definite conclusions as to the fashions for UHflMn spring aro becoming moro possiblo every Jay. InlilOM once said that dress 1ms always boon.

I 'lVvK i knit will always be woman's rcllslon, nnd that I'lHH oho chances it often. It must ba admitted that -J-ilB' cn fashlon supplants another in rapid suece-luJlBL and the feminine mind ever seeking KifjBlH something new in miitorlnls, trimmings and Fllilli designs, but this only goes to prove that llHilH woman is a suporior creature. She who fol-I 'ows fashion 'n of licr guises is an ezperl-l iiMlKi mentor, and a pliilosoiherihns told us that it is "')tB ns oxperlmentors who movo tho world. At B'MtfW' the same time, so mo things, by thelrvast parlorlty, have becomo fixtures, nnd of those Is I'UlMu' the summer silk. Nothing takes its place in sWt'ffjiBr Roman's ward robe, and from early spring until T'PltH 'at0 ttt" ft itsolt admirably to the fillaB' coquetry of tho to-day hot, to-morrow cool liiMaBv American summer.

IJfMBTi Foulard is preeminently tho fabric for this I I ffltwi Sown this yonr, ns It was last. A year ago li 91 dark and light colored taffetas, in tiny stripes end checks, tried to get an Inning, but those I ijHH who tried them said that gowns of thlsmnte- isH r'11' 'n no wnr comParcd with those of soft ILHI China silk or foulard In point of grace, comfort lil 'US' 'or durability. With the present sort, clinging liil'PK li" Styles, taffeta, unless very soft, is out of the li SI auestion this season, and perhaps that is just Blli 3 for tne new nre exquisite Hi It 'n texture, design and coloring. 'msrlr color was tho first consideration In foulard gowns; now it is compo-rWlHfilr' altion of line, as It is in dresses and LK'rlHjIf Waists of. every kind.

This Is a technical term. HfijjjjSH- but every woman readily understands that it WUt ilB1 means that carrying out of a harmonious line LviiiH'' which characterizes every new design. The Bi I HK'1 ornamentation of one's frock, bo it a severe Hf, IMS'' tallor-mado affair or an afternoon toilet, must HjHJH" be In harmony with the most characteristic I EHY "ne tlie forni' T1' lonff' lnes iliiB' which distinguish many of the new gowns In- I nKw uro Rracefu' effect oven on a naturally HiiiiHH clumsy figure. IjjjH. jSl HIjjnE In l'arlsdiessmnkers nre combining foulard KV 1 I with cloth, cashmere nnd cuinu-, but heir, up KV' li KSFi' to this time, no nionolhof thlssoit huve been LR'IkS shown, l'oulard is combined nth tliotians-H'lllKK parent fabrics such as chlfTou, luce nnd finely Kl'ILV''( smbroidered muslin, in luint of oolor nil H) JiH; shades o( vlolothavo the proferunce.

though HHh ths dozen and oiio blues mo coiifdUcrod iiilto 1 as good style, Whllo tho foulard gown Is LB I KMtV' usually mado with doubln skirt. It and the Kv. 1 H1" bodice form one scheme, for what decorates Hi iEr one decorates the other. Tho curving or straight lino Is carrlod up or down from one Hf IHr Into tho other, and thoy are not to Hk BHV be consldeied npnrt. This Is well lllus- jBH tratcd in tho Drat model, which It elTeelUe MJH, when carried out in national IiIiik silk with a HitllHlii cream flgiue.

Hands of thu-inch cieam In-H'lilBl' sertlonare set In at tho hhoulder scams, and H' HH'c continue to the waist Hue at the back, while In front they have tho iippe.iranco of running HIEflLw down to tho Bklrt' Tlie H1 ILwJ? pointed overdress Is so Hhapod as to show hc Insertions on the skirt, nnd Is edged with Mre i i white chiffon ruchlng. A vest of plain chiffon, outllnod with tiny ruchlngs, finishes tho waist. Tho sklrli of tho now foulards lit so closely from the waist to some lltllo distance below tho knees that It is noccssary to mnko the ovordross rory long, slnco nothing In the way of brovltyorerabclllshmont can bo nllowodto interfere with the clinging effect. Evonlfthe overdress is well roundod up on ono sldo. as In somo of the importod models.

It sweeps awny well Into the hem of tho foundation skirt on tho other side and hohlnd. Tho idea of continuity, so marked a feature In the embellishment of spring gowns, loads up to tho princess dress, which, in tho softer silks, stops short at what we call tho princess effect, a far moro practical, useful and bocomlng method. The third Illustration will bo found an oxcollont composition for thoso who want nn unbroken line at tho waist. This half princess, half red-Incote, Is being used a good deal in Tarts. Around tho hem of soft silk dresses, ovon thoso deslgnod for rough-and-ready wear, thero may be any amount of fulness nnd fluffy trimmings; so much, as mattor of fact, that tho nverago woman will have to tnko a good many lessons In the art of walking boforo she will bo nblo to get about with any degree of safety or grace.

For tho spaeo of ten or twolvo inclios you may indulge in as many small-shaped flounocs or plaltlngs edged with chiffon ruchlngs or lace or muslin nppllqu is ns you have a mind to. Brand gulpuro collars, fastened on ono side with black velvet loops nnd crystal buttons, trim some of tho foulard gowns; others aro mado exceedingly rich looking by tho Introduction of bands of embroidered satin on waist and skirt. Tho bolero, whichlls In general favor, also has its place on the summer silk, but Is usually of heavy lace. Man often wonders how woman can give her mind so completely to tho breozy fantasies of spring, wliilo winter still forces keen east winds and biting frosts on her attention; neither can he understand how she can think of thin summer silks, much loss havo them made, when tho warmth of heavy gowns and furs Is still most acceptable. When it comes to tho subject of fashion, woman alwns thinks, talks and plans nhead of time, and this Is well.

for. as it Is. In a fortnight dressmakers and tailors will be so ovorwholmod with work that everybody will be complaining that no one can get anything to wear. In tlie meantime it is well for women to bo very careful not to turn one wny or tho other, not to listen to this, that and tho other rumor, and not to pay tho least attention to tho whims of advocates of cxtromo styles, but to steer straight for tho very latest fashion which Taris sends, and that is tho cloth gown. Every woman who desires to be smart has already, is or will have this spilng.

cloth gown, and every week finds something' new, in minor modifications, In cloth models. Very fine cloths In tho most dcliento colors, as well ns tho darker shades, are teady to nppoar, The plain cloth Urt has justified nil predictions, for it remains triumphant, having ousted shared flounces, nerdrcsses and even tunics from the field. This skirt Is perfect in fit and does nrt tolernto ono faulty detail. Indeed, the figure appcurs to be simply moulded to lit the dress, and jet thn skirt has a very full nnd graceful flow about iho foct. Tllght hero It might be well to My a woidnbout tho petticoat, for upon Its perfect lit largoly depends that of the skirt.

Of course, it is gored nnd closely fitted around the hips: furthermore, the very newest design Is absolutely without fulness at tli wUt linn in the bxek. fattnla at the Uft slda In front. In oolor it should bear out soma detail of tho costume. Tho first cloth gown shown oxhlbtts the up-to-date cloth skirt as It should be. It is fashioned of palo gray cloth, trimmed with elaborate stltchlngs, and theyokonnd collar are ot white satin ombroldorod In several shades ot gray silk and dlnmond paillettes.

Very elaborate trimmings aro promlsod on dressy cloth gowns a little Intor, and are tho most pronounced featuro of dresses mado of voile and all materials of crepo do chlno like, toxture. Only fiat trimmings In braid, chenille nndlaco effect will bo used on cloth, so thoso who sot the fashions say. and, of course, embroidery. But on the thinnor materials garlands, motifs and all-overs composed ot combinations ot lace, chenille, not. ribbon work, paillettes and what not.

aro in voguo. Tnffotas, olaboratoly wrought In chonlllo alono or combined with silver and gold cord or braid, and cut out in laco doslgn. are used for trimmings, yokes, sleoves and even en-tiro bodioos. Jetted things wo always havo with us. and Parisians aro wearing incrustations of jet on white cloth and other appliquCs.

Jetted corsages and waists of jot galloon, Bevero in effect, will also como late, so it is rumored. Tho beauty of tho embroidery already here cannot bo ovcrratod. It Is gorgeous, glittering, brilliant and still harmonious, nnd It Is such accessories which add so much to the over-increasing oxponso of gowns. Another effort Is being made to introduco fringe trimmings, and tho newest design falls from an open-work foundation such as our grandmothers wore on their silk shawls. White oloth gowns are nlroady being much used for at homos In tho Lenten season.

Ono of tho most charming models ot tho sort noted is tho last, which Is cut away nn waist and skirt to show black and gold embroidery in an opon-work design on whlto satin. As hot weuther advances gowns of white cashmero and cloth will bo much used for day wear at fashionable resorts. Pastelle is a new cloth with a dull surface likely to be much worn. A now featuro of tho cloth gown, fashlflned withatunlo and bodice cut in one. Is Its plain silk skirt trimmed with several narrow bands of cloth; again It is worn over a kilt plaited skirt of silk.

The most striking of thoso rcdlngotes, as they nre called In Paris, fall in point at the hack. Another item Is the trimming of tho sides and back ot cloth skirts with a sorles of narrow velvet ribbon ruffles for about a foot above the hem. The front of such skirts Is stitched on in panel effect. The silk blouse nnd tho cotton shirt waist are rsceiving much nttcntlon just now, for one of the chief of their many uses is to tide their doo-tees oor from one season to nnothor. A number of smart models in silk and wash materials are shown In the group.

In silk tho pure whlto waist Is tho swell thing, provided It Is stylishly mado nnd trimmed with marked simplicity. Klaborato embellishment of any sort is no longer tolernted, and all waists must he mado with the long line In front. Many of tho cotton waists are mnde of tine lawn, tucked all over in bias or straight up nnd down tucks, apd are finished with small revors and a fancy collar. Tho sleeves of such waists aro not mado like tho ordinary shirtwaist Bleeve, but are tucked at the top and finished at the hand with flaring tucked cuff. Other whlto waists show Insertions of embroidery, and still others nre mndu of all over Swiss embroidery and Valenciennes laco and are worn over colored silk linings.

Practical women favor more highly the regu-I latlon tailor-made shirt watet. which is fash-I Inned this rear ot plilc ortrlod madras sod figured orsatln striped pique. Bayadere strlpos aro out of favor. The now cotton materials nre to be had In nil tho prevailing shades of blue, pink, coral and red. About tho latest dovelopmont in tho coat line is the motor car coat, and one pretty importod niodol is mado ot palo tan oloth, with a rolling collar, flaring cuffs, nnd straight attached piece at the bottom of mlrolr volvct of darker shndo.

Tho cloth Is so scalloped nnd finished with stitching ns to glvo tho effect of an overdress. Htrapsottho volvct nnd stool harness buckles finish tho front of this stunning gnr-mont. which is ndmlrably adapted for spring. TOE SIOnPllIXB HAIilT. A Fhyilclnn Says That It Is Bprendlng ot nn Alnrmlng Ilato In New York.

"Tho amount of morphlno used by women In Now York Is Increasing at an alarming rnto." Bald a physician. "I do not give tho drug at all, savo in extreme cases, for I boliovo wo doctors nro largoly responsible tor tho spread ot tho oll. It sooms such an easy, merciful thing to relievo acuto suffering by dose of morphine; and it would bo all right if tho patients couldn't get tho drug themselves. Thoy can got It. There's tho troublo.

"I was called to sco ono of my patients last week. She is a wealthy woman. She developed tho morphlno habit two years ago, when sho had a serious illuoss. Since thon she has had periodical sprcos with morphlno, in spito of all wo could do to prevent her. Sho always says that tho doplorabls stato sho gets into Is due to other causes but I can tell, as so jn as I bos hor.

whether she has boen taking morphine. Last weok. when I went to soo hor. sho was a nervous wrock.and said sho had boen agonizing with rhoumntism. IUiounia-tlsm Is a handy thing.

A doctor can't Bwoar that a patient hasn't got It I accused tho woman of having boen on a morphlno sprco. Sho denied It. I appealed to hor husband. He searched her buroau and chiffonier nnd found 200 mornhine pills. Sho had bought thorn all at one tlmo.

but wouldn't toll who sold them to hor. Of course there's a law against selling morphine except on a prescription; butnmorphlno fiend can always got It it ho Is persistent, and generally ho Is so. Any physician can tell a habitual morphlno taker at a glance. So can a druggist. The latter reads tho unmistakable signs In a man's face, and if he hasn't a conscience will soil tho morphino victim what no wants.

Tho druggist knows that the purchaser will guard the secret quite as closely as he could. But If a porson with no symptoms of tho morphlno habit wants to buy the drug ho will probably havo great difficulty in getting it. No pharmacist, ovon if not particularly reputable, wants to take the chnnces ot being huuled up-for breach of the law. "1 am constantly running across cases of tho morphine habit, especially, as I said, among women. Tho llfo thoy lead when active socially uses up their nerves, and they take morphine for neuralgia, until they can get along without it.

Usually thoy arc ashamed ot the habit and conceal It carefully; but sometimes thoy are quite open about it, take their morphine regularly and will not listen to reason. Not month ago a beautiful roung woman showed mo new chatelalno ornament sho had just bought. Ic was a remarkably handsome gold case, studdod with jewels, and looked llko a vinaigrette. Tho top opened, and insldt) wero a tiny hypodermic syriugo and tube ot morphino. I said something more forcible than polite and tried to make her soo the Insanity of the thing: but sho only laughod and told mo sho carried morphlno pills in her ehatolaiuobonbonnlero, so that she would bo all right if sho happened to bo where she couldn't use tho hypodermic, which she preferred.

I threatened to tell hor husband, but she said he knowabout it and didn't care, alio didn't bother him and he didn't bother her. I wont to tho husband nnd ho merely shruuged his shoulders and said ho never Interfered with his wife. Then I relieved my mind again and told him what I thought of him and nowthoro Is ono family loss on my list ot patients. "That was an exceptional case. I admit.

Usually relatives and friends ot a porson who takes mornhino do everything possible to break up tho habit but morphino fiend is remarkablo for cleverness. A great many women who don't want any ono to know that they have tho habit work tho physicians for morphine. I know women of good family who nevergo moro than two weeks without torrlblo attacks of neuralgia or rheumatism or something elsn that causes oxcruclating agony. The doctor Is called In nnd trios to rollevo the. woman; but nothing relieves hor until ho tries morphlno.

If hols clever enough to seo through tho thing nnd too conscientious to help out the little farco ho glvos up the case. Another doctor Is called In. and another, until one proscribes what is wanted. That's an old. old game.

Sfnny a struggling young doctor has thought his fortune mado becnuso a wealthy woman in his neighborhood called him In: but when sho Is seriously 111 she goes back to her old doctor. Hhe only wants the new ono to prescribe morphine for hor ncurolgiii. "There's no excuse. In tho world, torn doctor acquiring the morphlno habit. Ho knows bettor.

Yet som of tho doctors do it. Ono famous old New York doctor used to take his morphlno as regularly as ho took his breakfast: and, whenever he gave a hypodermic injection to a patient he took ono himself whllo ho had the syringo out. just for sooiablllty. I suppose. He never went to pieces under It.

but I presume ho would have done so In time. No one but a physician enn realize how this special vice is Increasing, nnd how sorions a problom It presents. As class tho medical profession takoH strong stand against It. but 1 confess I'm feeling rather discouraged. The person who takes a doso of morphlno for anything within the limits oi endurance is a fool but the world Is full of fools." It ILLS Of FASITIOX.

TUnd-palnted satin and muslin gowns are coming Into vogue. Double veiling is now considered very smart. It Is made of tho finest plain or dotted black not. and has a lining ot whlto illusion tulle. The effect is to heighten the beauty of the wearer's complexion.

Exquisite toa gowns aro being mado of white dottod Swiss over wash silk In pale tints. In Tarls toques of malden-halrfernlwlthlarge. stlfT cabbage roses aro popular. Tho more unnatural the shade of tho flowers tho sweller are they considered. Whlto and black tullo hats, nnd Indeed whlt and' blaok hats of all sorts and shapes, aro likewise very.

much worn, as are untlro toques nnd hats of Purma vloloU trimmed on one sldo with a whlto bird. A new Idea Is to disguise tho exlstonco of any collar band at all nnd to carry tho yoke Itsolf In whatover fashion It mny bo mado up to tho chin, Indications point to tho rolgn of tho Plain or simply rolled collar In tho Immediate futuro, and it is said that chiffon nnd laco earB and tats and bows nro to bu abolished from tho napeot the neok. Tho masses of boads nnd spangles which havo been so popular oacvonlngdros'ios during tho winter are beingdlsponsed with. Blaok Chnntllly over whlto mouesollno de sole the latest fanuy for tho evening, gown, and the seams, which nro Indispensable In the now tunic, am hidden benoath laoo, tho Idea being to glvo thoeffectofn seam Iojs gown. Homo smaitly cut, boleros on cloth gowns open over a lace bodice arranged In the loose occordlon-plalted lines that glvo fulness to a slendortlguru; others are llnod with lace.

If the signs of tho times nro to be trusted, perforated cloth is to be much worn. This does not mean that perforated strips am sewn on. but tlm skirt or bodice Is cut out nnd tho perforated doslgn then carried out. A oolor Is put under tho perforations. Clasps, so that ribbon belts may be easily interchangeable, hao almost superseded belt buckles, Tho newest are of silver, gtldod with a dull, reddish finish, and with these pressed velvet ribbon is used.

HMMHVWMI trtmnx the orEtt. Mrs. Kva E. Tutts Is said to bo skilled on-glnoer and oloctrician. At any rato, sho succeeds In drawing a salary as Secretary.

Treasurer, and general manager ot tho Long Bench nnd Snn Pedro Klcctrlo Company In California. She Ih a skilled mechanic. In addition to being a shrowd business woman. Tho so-called kiss nurl" which somo grownup good Ilttlo girls havo boon wonrlng In tho middle of their foreheads Is not a novelty as the hairdressers mako bollevo. Tho Bnmo fotchlng arrangement may ho found on soma of tho oldest statues In tho Vatican.

Alvropos of which, an English paper remarks that "rlol-onion know what ho was talking about when ho snld: 'Thuro Is nothing now undortho Probably M. Vlvlcr. tho Parisian dog tailor. Is not sorry that there is a fad for oqutpulng pot dogs with ovorshoos. M.

Vivier has a monopoly ot tho fashlonablo canlno trade In 'nrls and says that It Is harder to fit a blanket to a. dog than a gown to a woman. If this bo true, womon will feel sorrier than overfordogs. A gypsy queen named Mlml Bergn was buriod In Austria not long ago. Bho was tho wlfo of a wealthy horso doalor, it sooms, nnd lay in stato nftor hor doath In handsomn motnl coffin with mnsslvo silver ornaments.

A profusion of jewels was burled with tho body, nnd. In ordor that alio might not bo In need, a purso full ofeoliiA was placed In hor hand. Tho henrso was drawn by six horses and followed by torehbenrore. "Woman Is nothing but a two-loggod, dys-poptlc owl." This genial opinion Is Raid to havo been uttered by a supposedly learned gentleman who rejolcos In thonamoof Wlggln. and Is said to bo a professor In tho Chicago College of Physicians.

The college authorities reprimanded Wlggln for his ungal-lant remark, but perhaps ho was not really to blame. He seems to rosomble tho women of his family as ho undorstunds thorn. Tho fifty-ninth anniversary of Queen Victoria's wodding was observed on Fob. 10. Usually on thoso annlversarlos tho Queen gives a dinner and her wodding gown is shown to tho voung mombors of tho royal family and tho ladles and gentlemen of tlie household.

This year tho court wns In mourning for Prince Alfred of Coburg. Womon bootblacks scom to bo turning up In various parts of tho country. Miss Evangollna Probasco. dcserlbod as "a south sldo Chicago belle." has oponod an establishment in the Windy City. Sho does not black bootB herself.

butomployR foursonsof Italv for that purpose. Hho mnnnges tho business herself. Another woman who has gone into tho business Is Mrs. Edna Maxwell ot Kansas City. Bho wanted to contribute to mission, and.

ns sho hadn't the money, determined to try to earn it. Tho hootblaeklng s'and earned S4.0UU in a year and tho mission Is nourishing. ltosa Bonlieur is now at Nice, where she occupies a vlllu opposito that ot 31. Gambart, her old friend and host. Thero Is a beautiful garden which Is a marvel of tropical luxurianco.

Palms grow, according to tho account of an enthusiastic oyuwltncss. ns In an African wilderness. It may be that tho owltness has nevor seen nn African wlldornoss. but. at all events, tho villa seoms to bo vory nleo one.

Tho famous palntor Is extremely rudo to peoplo who Intrudo upon her. but Is most charming to thoso she knows and likes. Tho following sounds like a paraphrase of Shakespeare's soven agos of man. It was written by a musician In a manuscript muslo book: At years of ago most ladles nre arpeoaio; at 'JO a lady is an nltearo vivace; nt tlO. occasionally.

Bho Is nn nreordln forte; at 40 an mirfniifp; at tho rondo finale often begins; while from 00 It Is a tremolo alia sordino." Teoplo who hae a grudge against telephone companies in general will bo pleased to know that the women of Now South Wales refused to bo ground down by any soulless corporation. They determined to get the worth of tho telephone rent, no mattor how much time It took, so they conversed oor tho wires by tho hour until tho central office peoplo wero driven to distraction. Things got to such a point that tho Postmastcr-Ocnoral In Sydney was appealed to. and ho issued an order forbidding loquacious women from monopolizing a telephone for moio thnu ten minutes at a tlmo. Tho Countess of Warwick Is said to bo the only peeress whoso name appears over a shop window.

This particular shoo, howover, Is run for tho benefit of poor ncodlowomen. Sixty girls aio omploypd.and tho profits aro expended for their benefit. Ono old country-womnn, who saw tho nnme of tho Countess over tho window, did not understand tho situation, and exclaimed: "Oh. porn lady, 'ow sho must 'ae como down In tho world 3telba Is said to be an excollont whistler, and Is reported as saying that she always whistles tho music of a new part before sho trios to sing It. During hor school days nt Melbourne, whoro sho attended vory staid institution known ns tho Presbyterian Lndlos' College, sho wns the despair of tho toaehors bocause she, would persist in whistling tho popular airs of tho day whenovorsho was out in tho corridors or grounds.

Hero la a good story ot passago at arms between a woll-known Englishwoman nnd tho Into Sergoant Parry: You are Mrs. Goorglann Woldon naked tho distinguished lawyer. No. I am not" You don't understand mo. I nskod you, aro you Sirs.

Georgian Woldon I know you did, and I say I am not." But you are tho wlfo of Mr. Woldon Yes. I am." Then surely you aro Mrs. Woldon?" Of course I am." And Is not your narao Goorglann "Certainly notl" "What is It. then?" Goorglna." Thon why could you not say so at first Bcoauso you didn't risk mo." Tho following commont on tho Girls' Club In Paris will mnko a good many Now York girls smllo.

It appears In nn English papor: "Tho American girls, who aro preeminently birds ot passago nnd loss depondent than their English slstors upon surroundings, troat tho olub as a more hotel. Thoy mnko no nttompt tocronte a homeliku offoct by decorating their rooms with personal trifles, books, pictures. Qowors nnd things llko that. Each room, however, posscrjes a stovo ithaplpe reaching almost to tho celling, for tho Americans hnvo a docided fooling for warmth. Each room Is furnished only with necessnrlos.

tho only feature of Interest being tho uso ot a divan Instead ot a bed." This will appeal especially to anybody who has been entortalned time and again in somo of those very rooms; rooms which aro almost museums ot quaint curios plokod up In tho markets and nt tho fairs; Is tho ono aim of theso girl exiles. It -would be Interesting also to know why tho English correspondent allowed thoso stovepipes to reach only "almost to thn celling." To alloy nny fears for tho girls in tho club, it may bo stated that tho stovepipes do really go tho rest of tho way and safely land in a Quo. Mmo. Wu. tho wifo of tho Clilneso Mln'stor at Washington, is a great favorito at tho capital.

She and her husbandaro very punctilious about returning visits, but whon, at ono at-homo day this winter, l.tiflt) persons came, they wero in a good deal ot a quandary what to do. Mmo. Wu is about four feet tall or short and her feet are so tiny that sho leans on her huHband'x nrm whon Mho walks. She has splendid jowels nnd nn especially fine assortment of headgear. She speaks English and Is welcomo visitor at the White House.

Sho has a 7-yoar-old son. A momorlal chapel is boing built in honor of tho lato Empress Elizabeth ot Austria. It is to bo paid for by public subscription. Tho slto selected Is as extraordinary as was tho personality of tho woman whoso memory will bo honored there, for tlie chnpcl la being erected on tho Schneeborg. which Is said to ho always capped with riiow.

It is not difficult ot access from Vienna, however, and is ofton visited by mountain climbers. It Is Moped that the building will be tlnlBhod by tho 10th or next September, tho first anniversary of tho Empress's death, on which day tho first mass will be said. Church parado is a London custom which Is of moro or loss interest, according to the weathor. When Sunday is a reasonably pleasant day, tho swells go to tho park after church Uovorand walk up and down for tho space of half an hour or so, whllo they gossip about ono another and the rabble look on in wonder and tho reporters picparo minute descriptions of costumes, tho same to bo printed in largo typo in tho engaging fashion of English journals. Anybody can see by rending tho follow-1 lng items from Modem Society that tho church parado Is worth attending: Church parade, though not crowded in tho showery weather of Sunday, was smartly attended.

Lady Hood wore a long satin cloak, which almost touched thoground. with largo rovers of white satin her ornaments were opals. Miss Touplo Lowther woro bright rod dou-blo-breasted jacket over a limp pink shirt with a white linen collar, a black satin skirt, red hat and a very prominent watch chain. Thero was a jacket of whlto cloth which looked like a pillar box nartlally swathed in a whlto shoot; also an extraordinary cloak which gnvo tho wearer tho appearance ot a sheep walking on its hind legs. Lord Crichton woro a long blue ulster and an eyeglass." The "eel skirts" are literally clinging more snd more fondly to womankind as the days go by.

Not long ago, at a muslcalo in Paris, It was a subject of remark among the less pronounced devotees of fashion that thero soeined to bo a strange desiro among tho women presqnt to stand about, loaning against pillars and doorways and ohalr backs and nlmostany thing in the line of a support. No matter how cordially they were urged to sit down, thoso woman languidly declined and continued to do the statuesque act until people't backs fairly aohod from merely looking at them. The truth finally came out. howovor. It wasn't a ense of standing up just for tho fun of It, but because the new gowns fit so snugly around the hips that It is ruinous to sit down In them.

WAYS OF WOMEN'S CLUBS. jj WHAT IT MEANS JVOIT TO JIB fl msizsavisnitn a vest, An Ordeal Thnt Mint Try the Stmitoit Ilenrt or the Strongest Mind In Ini. Inlne Clubdom Kvolutlon of Ctutom 1 ThntlsTlecomlngMoreandMnroOnsroiii Wero you ever a distinguished guest at a woman's club?" said Mrs. Pepper to Slr Pickle. "Mo? Nol Not at a woman's club or any- where else." "Well, it I wero you I'd begin soon." "I couldn't bo a distinguished guost at any.

thing. An Insignificant body like mol" "Woron'tyou thoBeeretary pro torn, of tli Oskazoo Tuosday Club threo years ago "Yos.but" "That's all that's noccssary. You'll nppear on tho list ns tho ex-Seorotary, and so forth. And what I wns going to say was that, it you jl know whon ypu'ro well off, you'll mako your debut soon. This rdlo of distinguished guet Is getting moro exciting all the tlmo.

i'vo been nt it now for several years, but I'm not sure that I can keep at It several yoara longor "whon I was first Invited to bo ngueatot somo friend nt her club luncheon or hre.ikfnftt I went nto and was filled with papers and talks nnd bouillon nnd croquotton. That wns nil right. Then thoro was a change It got to the point that at a oortaln stage, of thn game, tho President of tho olub would got up nnd say; 'Larilos. wo havo with us this afternoon a inim- berof friends, and, as I am sure you would nij like to know who they nro, tho Secretary will now read tho That bad at all. I can't say that my bosom didn't swell with pride to hear my full name announcod with flourish.

But things didn't end there. Protty soon the President stopped calling us friends 'and rotorredtous as Then wo developed into 'distln- gulshed That title became Imme- dlately popular, and ono of thn freakish habits of almost all women's clubs now is to read a long list ot visitors under tho heading of'dla. MntrulBhed "Not long after this tltlo came Into fashion nn entorpriting club President had the hrll- llantldoaot asking onch of tho distinguished. guests to rlso when her name was called. 11m secretary would announce: 'Mrs.

Myrtle Green Then I would get up and stand thero, fooling like sovcrnl kinds of a foolnnd knowing that two or threo hundred women woro guying me in tholr Inmost souls. I always felt as if tho President hold mo up as it she worn show- lng nn Insect ton class in natural history. Still I mado tho bostof it. and. by gotting only about halfwayupand thon subsiding promptly, I shortened tho sssny ss much a This rising for inspection has been the fashion for somo tlmo, but tho othor day I had nn experience which shnwod mo that tho distln.

gulshod-guost business Is capable of almost unlimited development "I had boon invltod to go to tho luncheon of a well-known club and I found myself, as usual, ono of halt dozen or moro visitors. After tho bouillon nnd croquettes part of the Crogrammo wan over tho President got up and egan the old. familiar formula: 'Ladles, hao a number of distinguished guests here prosont with us to-dny. nnd It gives me great deal of ploasuro to have tho Secretary read tholr "Then thn Seqrotary bogan: "Mrs. 3Iargaret Bmlth Brown.

Mrs. Myrtlo "'Ono moment I' Interrupted tho President I will request that each lady rise and bow whon hor namo is And bow I Thnt was new wrinkle. I sat there wondering how in tho world I could do It without adding a shriek of laughter to my bow. Imuglno tho nslninlty of gotting up and making a bow as if you woro a little schoolgirl about to say piece. It she had said for us to rise and turn handspring 1 couldn't have boen more confused.

Well, the Secretary again began with Mrs. Brown, who got up and made her little bow. I knew my turn was coming uext and. as I was in tho mlddlnof the room, with women to right of me. to left of mo and behind me.

I wondered whether I would be re- nuastedtomako four bows or would be let off with one. I mado ono nnd dropped Into my seat, and the Beoretnry passed on. "Now. I tell you tho distinguished guests ot women's olubs havo a great career before them. The bow Is but the beginning.

Next thoy will bo requested to rise, bow and turn slowly on ono foot. This will give tho spectators a comprehensive view ot thodistlngulshed guests, back as well as front After that they will probably be asked to rise, bow. revolve slowly, close nnd open tho eyes, smile, frown nnd give various other detailed expressions. To this may be added an injunction to bring with them typewritten bioginphical dnta. After whllo thoy can bo nsknd to bring also typewritten descriptions of the gown nnd hat worn, stating oost.

materials and anything else of Interest. Don't you sco 1 There's no limit to it. Now. if you think you would object to being a distinguished guest under such ad-vancod conditions. I urge you to take your turn nt It now, whon you can get off with the la-junction to mnko a protty bow to tho ladies.

Tho wheels of progress are moving, and the distinguished, guost is being hurried to unknown nntics' An American JN'aral Officer's Spanlib Wltst from tht Paciltt Commercial AdtertUir. Ono of tho passengers aboard tho United States transport steamship Morgan City was a lovely matron of tho porfoct. hfghost Castillnn tvpo. She had tho doftly chiselled features, the bo wlldorlng wealth of hair, the deep black soul windows beneath nrchod brows, delicate as thistle down, the lips ot tho aristocrat, the teeth of an Oriental queen nnd all tho oloeanco nnd graco of bearing that could well be Imagined. Sho was all that ono would plctnro the darling of a select household of Old Mndrid.

Hers was such a personality ns feto visions conjuro. Soflora was of Spain. Rho Is tho wlfo ot nn officer In the American Navy and journoys to join hor husband intheser- vice of his countrv In tho Philippines. What hor thoughts are, what experiences are In storn for her, might be materialized into romance I with much shading of sadnoss. From the ox- prosslon of hor features, unconsciously betray- ing prido ot family and race, nothing could ba guessod.

HoQora was unruffled on the shlp. It Is fancied that it would bo difficult to disturb her equilibrium. Khs travellod before her marriage to the Amerlcnn continent and has lived in tho United States about five years, being prominent in the society circles of ono ot the largo cities. Hefloraex- hibits no sentiment. There Is the deepest re- a Fiard for her on the ship.

As diversion she ias orgnnized a class in Spanish. There are recitations twice day and tlie language Is used as much as possible. 933 BROADWAY, Bet. 21st 22d 1 Human Hair Goods. Hair Dressing.

Hair Ornaments. A matchless stock of Frenc, Waye SelecUon of Human Hair Goods Shampooing, Tortoise and Amber In nil its branches. Clipping, Bright nnd Matted Tho Patented Slorelnr Jet5' Eiqulslto Novoltlcs In Newport Coll nnd nm, mir Pompons, Ostrich Plumes. Marie Antoinette HAIR rOl nDiiun Alsaclan Bows, produco nn oximlulto Coiffure. ft I B- I auri Wigs and Toupees Export Artists.

Gauze Butterflies ot my mako nro tho standard of Luxurious, Commodious, and mounted with perfection. Most Modern Parlors in Town. Brilliants, Pearl and Jet Necklaces. Your Child may look palo, lack appotlte, appear weakly and havo "no llfo In her" or him, Thon let the child havo outdoor exercise, taJ and two or three TTj 1 JlFrCD THE BLOOD per day, and mark the change. Appetite will Increase; the face will assume the red hue of health; strength, flesh and weight will Increase; and the ohlld will be "full of life "and good health.

The tablets are nice as candy," 10 tMeti In a lot. Soli by all (T3 A A Bright Face Is a delight, whether anlmato or Inanimate, brilliancy of mind or metal Is always admired, You can see It In your Silverware nftor cleaning with and It's a pleasant reflection to know that It's dons withoutdetrlmenttometalormuscle. It's the easy way, the pleasant way, the saving way. Isn't It the war worth trying 7 Grocers sell It SiulUjtT Cotstumew. O.

HAAS UHI 1'IITII AVR lift, ur.tli nrt 38th innnuncf tho opening of tlix l.tc.t ImiortertMnill for the irlim irmon and tmltolnanrcllnn. All tbil Ik neurit ml correct In tuition. Material, and col. oniut" thai on will find It a iilea.urn anil an adtan-tairo to eo, Tallor-iuadu richly ilU lined turuuiiliout, nm)- uuw he for Bta.no, for which our lutial prirr la ftln.on, Hpeelal ferthla month only. Our Arm iiamelanruonruioiiathroucli-out the country for licence of alyle and reliability of workmantuln, SPIUNO OOWNS.

Vt Invite In.prctlon of our new model, for iprins ana aumtner wear anrt eitend our offer for lliU mouth onlr of tallor-inaclo ro.tutnea of flno hro.d. i loth in all Die new abartta, lined with dainty tarretaa, for kMti.oo. I'ANCJV WAlhTH. KVKNINO GOWNS, from orlgiual doilgna. Perfection euaranteed, A.

F1UKOMAN A 03 Wet 2d it. A Sura 8lgu of Spring, "I note." tald a stroller, "oneunfollingsllrt of spring the children are jumping rope. KasasMsHsfl.