The Algona Upper Des Moines from Algona, Iowa on December 27, 1893 · Page 7
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The Algona Upper Des Moines from Algona, Iowa · Page 7

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Wednesday, December 27, 1893
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THE UPPER DES MOINES: ALGONA. IOWA, WEDNESDAY, DEOEMBEB 27 V 18&3. WOMAN'S WOULD. 1 LAtfiSt filSWS FftOtvt THE tiltA* bEL OF FASHION. 3««i6 Rortiftrkably Pretty Gowns I>a* clgndd fo* Winter Itecotitlonn—Short ChAt wltli Dnmc fashion—Hints for the Kitchen. INcw Yofk Fashion Lotlcr.l Pome intrepid intei-viewer has caught |he fair goddess of Fashion in a coni- aunictttive mood and coaxed from her |he answer'to the oft-repeated, ,but tithcrto unsatisfied query. "How is tashidn created?" And the substance Sf 'the a nsweh couched in more digni- led terms than one would expect from ,b'frivolous-a deity, is. "Fashion is not subjected to any special law or jurisdiction. It obeys certain and various [currents, sustaining the influence of ! £ach in its turn. It is inspired now by ,he caprice of an artist who has be- popuhtr for the moment, again | gown, and 'stamp it with an air of good style. Indeed, one of tho most striking women in last week's Hroad way parade wore a gown of black corded silk inado without a hiht'oftrimming. but about the ne.uk was a .wrinkled collar of magenta velvet, and in the belt were tWo folds of the color. Another new gown, which happily solves the problem of how to utilize a last winter's scant skirt, is slashed up to the knees-aro'und the bottom, and lias panels of watered silk lot in broadening from a point, at the top to a width of four inches at the bottom. Tho jointure of the two materials is covered with jet gimp. The old sleeves must be discarded for moire sleeves, a wrinkled vest of moire, and two bias "ripple" basques nbt gathered, but cut so on the circle that they fall in flutes of themselves, added beneath a jet belt finished with a long oblong bow. The shoulders are sloped to fit over the sleeves. are slashed. lined with moire. and finished A pretty gown of berel- with wood brown, red, with the jet. ted silk shot |tW a pl'.iy in vogue, or by some circum T*uncc. 'So> we have the 'Walkyric 1 gicui in a BENNY HAVENS, OHt untl stand o-i,, the Sara Uornhnrdt 'Fedoras.' He ^boleros that came in with 1 the facaiona of the. Champs-de-Mars and tie iride'-cont gaiix.es of the latest terp- sichorcan idol." ' As for the inspiration of the mode to succeed the 1830 style that is now at its height, and consequently approach- its decadence, Fashion does not Svish to be quoted in the matter at present." Some of the French dc- P jigners are introducing the Louis XII i. land the Loiiis XVI. styles, which pred- f'icates a reign of rich brocades, luxurious velvets and laces, and amply fdraped skirts, with pointed bodices. It |is believed that tho reaction from the 1830 made up with ruffles of green chiffon, headed with bands of green, overlaid with bluclt gimp. The lapels are of green satin, and -the long bows depending therefrom are of black velvet. The full material in. the neck and on the sleeves is chiffon, and the idea may be carried out less expensively in cashmere and silk for one of those dressy gowns the unfashionable woman finds .so useful for small entertainments in the winter season. The runic which crosses the front in a festoon slopes up at the back to within about ten inches from the bottom of the waist. This is a favorite form of decoration for skirts, sometimes two or more bands or nifties following the curved line described, and sloping up the buck nearly to the belt, One pretty new gown, suitable for the opera or a reception where dancing is not the main feature, is of the brocade mentioned, yellow* with a tiny spray in deeper yellow, with a bit of gold in the weave, has a, deep Van- dyked collar, with fichu folds of yellow velvet around the low neck, and decoration 'uul girdle of gold passe- menterie. Another hall dress, designed for i young girl, is of light blue silk muslin Three ruffles of lace cross the full gathered skirt, and another forms tin- little basque. The belt and sleeves arc of velvet, in a rich shade of olive green One of the favorite evening gowns will be some modification of the idcr so much in favor with the public dan souse just now, which consists of a fill skirt crossed by bauds of insertion ac eordion plaited to the belt and hung over a silk petticoat of a contrasting omc Come tune your voices, comrades, up in u row, For to singing sen ti men hilly we tire tUiout to BO. In the nrmy there's sobriety, promotion Very slow, So we'll sigh cmr reminiscences of Benny . Havens', Oh! Chorus- On! Tieiinv Hiivens, Oh! Oh! Benny Ituvens, Oh!' Wo'll sltch onr reminiscences of Benny Havens, Oil! I.,ot us lonsl our foster father,(the Kepulillo us yon luiow.> Who in the put Us of science liuu;ht us upward for to go: \nd then the mnidcn.s of onr hind, whose chocks with roses plow, iVhosc smiles mirt tours were s»n« 'mid uliucrs at Ucnny llivvons. Oh! t'o the ladles of the. Umpire stnlo, whoso lieurt.s and album, too. Hour siul examples or the wrongs that strip- Una soldiers do, Wo bid n s;id utllou, olir hearts with sorrow overflow. Onr loves ami rliymlngs hurt their soured at Ucnny Havens, Oh! modes, which have been attractive ! color, which shows through the inser- only because they were novel, and are •indeed trying to almost every woman because, however carefully arranged, they add more than a little to her years, will bo sharp and decisive. Meantime, in the intermediary period, wo who search the newspapers for hints instead of ordering our gowns direct from Paris or London, are wondering if something can not be done, with the last year's gowns that we can not afford to discard. Much can be done just now on account of the popularity of the. overskirt. Really, the bverskirt may be classified as of two distinct styles, one long and pointed, i/»or rounded at the. .bottom, the other draped apron fashion on the gown and much shorter at the back than in the front. These overdresses, it must bo remembered, are edged with narrow gimps, a narrow finish of fur, or even a narrow moire ribbon gathered and put on in one or two rows, with a little heading of gimp. And if any one has an old gown of handsome cloth, it may easily form the overskirt of a now one, shorieliing it from the top, reshaping and fitting it about the hips. The underskirt may be moire silk, or watered shaded velvet, or a contrasting color in cloth* The underskirt is frequently finished with fur, when no other fur is used on the gown, or wlien a garniture of lace is used on the gowu. One model shown, from which a. hint may be gleaned as to the disposition of a last year's gown, is a Kedferii creation of brown ondiuo cloth, with an underskirt, a ' waistcoat and basque of black watered velvet. The finish of the cloth is u "band, of black passementerie put on ovei' a lining of deep magvnte, the now so much in vogue gp.d belt of it tbj? tions. Of course just now the fam for black and white combinations is so great that these colors are the first choice, and an effective gown of this kind is of black monsseline do soie, with thin bands of white or black insertion over a petticoat of white satin. A broad Anne of Austria collar finishes the neck. The saint model is equally pretty mudo up ovei magenta or green satin. The beautiful thing about such a go\vn is this, that it can be made up at home, us tht waist is accordion plaited, too, and there is no particular lit to it. A pretty evening gown of satin-striped crepon is trimmed with a succession of satin bound ruffles,- put on iu festoons. Tin waist has the little ruffles about th< ne and is belted with a narrow satjti ribbpn.. Found i»n liar on hl» Doorstep. \ Lewis 'David, a crippled veteran of the late war, lives six miles back in the mountains from Moosic, l.'a., in a rude house which ho himself built without any aid from logs he cut in the woods surrounding his habitation, the New York Sun. lie lives alone. For years he has tramped to Moosie every three months to draw his pension, lie returns immediately to his lone cabin in the mountains. Mo never leaves his home except on these occasions. It is supposed he has money secreted in his cabin, as he has never been known to use more than a dollar or two in buying supplies on his quarterly visits to Moosic. Tlic other day two hunte.rs were passing the old veteran's cabin. lie sat in his door smoking. Ho called to the hiinlcrs and they stopped, "Look what 1 found on my doorstep last night," he said, and held up a man's ear. Before the hunters could recover from their surprise siinlcciuly to say anything the, veteran said: "I'll toll how 1 think it must have to be on my doorstep. Some ime during last night I kind o' woke p, and I hoard noises that sounded ike some one talking in a smothered ort o' way. 1 listened and made up ny mind the voices came from that lump o' bushes yonder. 1 know hero couldn't ba voices unless there vas somebody with them, and 1 vatchcd out of the upstairs window, The moon was shining bright and I ladn't watched long before I saw two ncn crawl out of the bushes and sneak .owurd the door. When they got to the door they began to force it open. Then 1 made up my mind that they wanted to get in without asking, and I went down the ladder to the. lower •oom and throw my body against the lour. "'Open that door,' one oC the men lollereil, 'or we'll blow your head oil'.' "I've got a sword that f brought lioine with mo when I loft the army, uid that's all the weapon I've got. I cached for that. The men pushed and shoved until they forced the door on a crack, and one of them got his icad through, i fetched the sword edgeways down on that head as hard is 1 could. The man dropped as if ho tad been shot and lay groaning on the .sill. T'other dragged him out just in time to save his friend from jetting another jab with the sword, ind I shut the door and put a table and a grindstone and a barrel against it, while the one man was looking to eo what had happened to the other. It wasn't long, though, before 1 heard loud report and a bullet came clear through the door, which ain't very thick, and wiii/y.ed by my ear. Then there came a crash against the door and it was forced partly open. I saw part of the body of a man arid 1 made a jab at it with the sword. The man grabbed the blade, but after a struggle I yanked it away and gam another jab. and a hard one. 1 heard a yell and some one hollered: •' -My li:)d! I'm stabbed!' "1 pushed the door shut and buiri- 'aded it. There were groans and moans a-plenty outside. I wont up the ladder again by and by and looked out of the window. And what do you think 1 saw'.' line of the chaps making for tliu woods with t'other one on his back! 1 knew they wouldn't return, and I went to bod. U'hcii 1 got up this morning- I found this ear on the doorstop. And you can sec for yourself that trail of blood lea ling into the woods." There was no mistaking that fact. The hunters followed the trail until it entered the thick brush and went oft' toward the head of Panther creek. '•That's the way I think this ear must have come to bo on the doorstep," said the vau-ran. when the hunters came back. "If you Had any one who has lost an car, tell him to come up here and maybe he can find it." Arcoriliuif lo ciruiiiusluiK-'uii. Immediately after tins battle, of Prairie (irove. some rebel o flic era of rank were sent up to fane Hill. Ark., to negotiate for exchange o£ prisoi,- ers. It was during their visit that the amusing scene narrated below occurred: in a small building close on the only street of that crooked village, three Confederate officers, jn their best gray uniforms, were sitting o» o»9 && e °f a table, and three Federal officers, in blue on the other. An old gray* headed and gray-bearded man came to the door, and incontinently' walked in. with the query—> "10s this the provo's offls?" He was dressed in brown homespun, and had an old white wool hat on his head, tied on with a handkerchief, and he leaned on a brown stick. "Es this the Jprovo's offls'.' I want rt pass." Some one here attempted to explaiil to the old gentleman that he was in the wrong shop; but the old fellow, who was a little deaf, it seems, mistook this as a hesitation to give him what he wanted. "I'm a good I'yal citizen. I've got my portection papers. I've been to get paid for my forage. It's all right." There, was a slight inclination to laugh by several present; but the old gentleman continued to make the most earnest protestations as to his "1'yalty." "Look here, my friend," said Colonel W.. with a smile, "you had hotter lake care what you say about loyalty. , Look at these gentlemen"— pointing over the. table—"don't you seo they are Southern officers?" The old man's hand trembled as he now adjusted a dilapidated pair of spectacles to his eyes, and closely examined the gray uniforms with the velvet collar and brass stars. His hands trembled more violently. For the time being lie seemed to forget the place and surroundings in his fear and bewilderment. At last in great distress, he turned to the gentlemen and began to stammer out his explanations: "Well, gentlemen, I didn't think. I 1 didn't mean anything. 1 have al- lers boon a Southern man I've jest got one son, and ho's with Marina- duke. The only other man grown that's fit for . sarvice is my darter's husband, and he's with Hector, and — and—" "Hold on, old follow !" cried Colonel \\ __ i "what about your being a loyal citizen'.'" "Will von in form inn," asked Colo- FENCING AS A WOMEN PASTIME FOLK. FOR nel I 1 W age'. 1 " The t'other justed —, who sat next to Colonel "who paid you for your for- Clinrinlne Wowon. Who. With tlio (Huirdod Stmet Unplor Cut itml Tttrnst mid 1'iirry wltli the Kuse »4 Swordsmen. NEOFTHK MOST convincing proofs O:f woman's superiority over man is the fascinating grace she gives to everything she manages to borrow from his prerogatives. And perhaps this has never been more picturesquely demonstrated than in the matter of fencing, that pretty pastime of courtiers and gentlemen of the old school, which, now in its decadence among men. is be- in- taken up by the women. For the fo.l in a woman's hand, though it may lack something of the vigor and strength in the charge, is handled with a quickness and delicacy which convince all observers that fencing is preeminently a feminine exercise. Because grace is fundamentally the characteristic of fencing, and because the exercise demands quick motion, a light touch, and rapid calculation, coupled with an erect but easy bearing, it is indeed a valuable exercise for women. Every muscle of the bofily is called into play, but there is no strain on any of them, and the violence which accompanies many other kinds of athletic practice is unknown in this delicate art. And though of the various sports and systems of physical culture in vogue among the ladies fencing is least talked of and least evidenced by ocular demonstration, that there are a large, number of well-known women who practice with the foils every day is a fact not at all ditllcultto substantiate. It is something more, than five yean now since fencing began to be accounted as a possible feminine accom- old man turned to look at side of the table. Again ad- his spectacles, and looked at the blue coats, and in an agony of distress he took oft his spectacles and his handkerchief- and hat, and while he loaned on both hands on the table, the tears ran down the wrinkles of his old face. "Well, well, gentlemen," he at last found words to say, "you go on an' fight it out among yourselves. I can live in any government."—American Tribune. _ KntisUnt; u lluliol Attiiuk. After defeating and putting to flight the enemy who hud attacked our armies and the fort at Allatoona, the armies of the United States advanced with all possible speed in the direction of the Allatoona pass without delaying for food and only halting' for a rest a very few moments at any time- After awhile it was found impossible for us to proceed further, for the enemy was discovered present in force and placed so u.s to prevent any further advance. This was no enviable situation for us and we instantly perceived that no pleasant occupation was in store for its in the near future, should the Confederate soldiery prnvc fractious. Their peculiar uniform attracted our attention. They had taken military possession of the side of a mountain and tlio uniform they had donned for the purpose of deceiving the United States armies was tailored in such stylo as to give, them the appearance of very small boys. The 'boys' were Confederates, and the uniform was for tin.) purpose of putting the Federals off their guard. Justus the trainman had finished speaking, without the slightest warning Unit they were coming, they svere upon us. They eiimo on a charge exactly like so main infuriated wild boasts. l!y some chance or other their bayonets just graced my head and, besides the file leader made for mo individually. They eamu so near our front rank I could make out their facus without the least dilViculty, and noted not only the features of tlio enemy, but the manner of thoir dressing i their beiirds and even the color of thoir beards. They were large men, very powerful, exceedingly nimble and had evidently been unremittingly drilled and disciplined by some skilled tactician. Their charge was resisted. Their fill; leader retreated, stopped an instant and disappeared. The .second man was knocked down or fell down, for hi-, disappeared likewise, 1 was obliged to laugh to seo how instantly the file leader bounded olr, and endeavored to ascertain what direction he might have by chance chosen for better concealment. And then as 1 was just beginning to make merry over what I considered our easy victory. I had either a hand to hand struggle with the enemy and was thrown violently down, or my breath was taken away by incessant fusilad- ing, for I became insensible and was left on the battlefield for dead."—K, Y. .Mail and Kxpress. Tlio l<'til>iaii 1'olicy. The policy of wearing out the enemy in war bv delays, misleading movements, feints o£ attack, etc.. while avoiding open battle, is called thu "Fabian policy,' from the following circumstance: Fabius Maximus was a Itoman general iu the second Punic war. Having been aup:>iuted just after the Itoman army had suft'crcii severe defeat at Lake ThiMsymono, he perceived that his disheartened troops and bands of raw recruits could not oppose successfully a trained army flushed with victory and led by theii great commander, Hannibal. He therefore avoided pitched battles, moved His camp from highland to highland, and tired out the enemj with marches aud countermarches This he continued until thwarted in his (wleulatioos by $he impatience o, tJie plishment. and there are women wh have never stopped the foil practice begun in the opening classes of the first year. Fencing is not like swimming, lancing, or tennis, a thing once.learned ,o be always remembered or only taken ip at pleasure, but rather, as in the lancer's art, to remain proficient the oncer must use the foils constantly. And herein lies its peculiar value for vomen, because in athletics women seem to have little power of sustained sft'ort, and unless .spurred on by some jarticuhir impetus their practice is apt to be. spasmodic for a time and finally ibandoned altogether. The primary results of the exercise ire increased strength of limb, suppleness, quickness and lightness of motion, i more erect bearing, a loss of unneces- ,ary weight, a peculiar agility and dex- erity, and a happy self-poise which comes from a lack of selt-consciousness mil a new confidence and serenity, which, summed up in a single word, moan grace. An awkward woman fnows she is awkward, and her self- ionsciousnoss increases her defects. She knows, too. as .soon as she. begins to move less clumsily and more surely; and the fencing woman discovers this .mange before she has put on the glove nuny times. Actresses realize the value of practice with the foils in assuring confident and easy movements in the stage, and it is a noticeable fact that they take to fencing more readily than other women and become more expert with little practice, because of their confidence and adaptability.. A woman in fencing attire is, indeed, a picturesque vision, for the dress consists of -J> little skirt of wool or velvet heavy unough to stay down without being weighted at the hem with lead and reaching only to the knee, a loose waist, canvas slippers, the prettiest stockings in the world, and a belt like a man's gymnasium belt, loose, but p.til i T1WV -costume according to her own sweet JJl!.'AUxX will and fancy. There was the .Tersey , Lilys who, when driven from the st&j£d by increasing avoirdupois, reduced he* weight twenty pounds with the foil practice, wearing a pitir of white trousers gathered to the knee so full that they served all the modest purposes of a skirt, a heavy jersey patterned after those worn in her native isle which were for a time fashionable with all women, ribbed stocking's' mid low shoes. Mrs. Potter fenced ill Turkish trousers and a skirt that barely escaped the ankle and was slit up the sides. Marie Tempest, who took lessons for her role in "The Fencing Master," had a costume o£ salmon pink China silk trimmed round the edge with rare and costly lace, through which her professor was warned Oh no account to run his foil. She was what might be called a dainty fencer, lacking the energy of the Langtry. but learn- JT with readiness. Some expert fencers cast aside the kirt entirely and appear in tights, vith a loose bodice, and a folded belt, losina Yokes, who is expert with the oils, practices in a divided skirt and louse, which is really a most eon- enient costume. One of the best wo- lan fencers in New York is Blanch Valsh. who looks upon the exercise at vonderfully invigorating, especially vhen followed by a cold bath directly .ftcrward. Women rarely make so skilful fencers is men. Not having tho same length f arm and leg, they are not, as a rule, ible to lunge so far or so powerfully. [.'his is, however, largely compensated or by their superior quickness and lelicacy, for good fencing depends argcly upon a rapid, light touch. -So soon, therefore, as the woman's wrist becomes sufficiently strong, her long 1 nd supple fingers give her an advantage which men, with their more clumsy uinds, do not possess. A peculiar antithesis is observed by Ilerr Hartl, who nay bo remembered as the conductor of the Viennese lady fencers' entertainments, in tho tactics of ladies and gentlemen during exercises. A man,, when ho fools the superiority of his, antagonist, will often lose patience*, and, discarding all rules, depend on, strength only, lie throws art overboard and resorts to common thrashing 1 . A woman will cling to the prescriptions of the art and remain, tech' nically speaking', "true to the form." This is the more strange since it is proverbial that our fair sisters los« their self-control in almost everything else under slight provocation. Tho light foil is, according to Iferr Hartl, who is quoted in the Chicago inter Ocean, perhaps the only weapon fit for a lady's hand. She can not handle tho sword with the same intensity because she lacks the necessary muscular endurance tind energy. With the tleure she is able to thrust and parry for hours without fatigue provided she is not incumbered by corsage or any garment which interferes with the free movements of the body. \ This authority maintains that unless something is done to provide Healthful and muscular recreation for the wives and daughters of the "well off," especially in metropolitan cities, there is danger of a lethargical collapse physically and of the consequent advent of a more and more enfeebled posterity. Outdoor sports have inaugurated an athletic regeneration in summer, but at no time of the year is there more need for vigorous calisthenics than in winter, when the cold weather keeps women indoors and the comfortable warmth of the house induces constant sedentary occupation. To eradicate tho ailments produced by inaction and unreasonable seclusion from sports aud JilMi I'RAt'TICE. firm, and affording a slight .support to tiro waist. This little skirt must be kilted or gathered full, to allow perfect freedom of the legs in the rapid advance aa4 retreat. Of course, every ;8 tbe o| THK fOUl' 1)10 UllAL'K, exercises; to impart quickness and dexterity of motion and a graceful,dignified, and free carriage of the body; to transform the frail and languid parlor ornaments of the larger cities into healthy companions and strong helpmeets for their husbands, is, according to the Viennese professor, tho cardinal object in view during a course in fencing. So proficient aud grace-* t'nl have some of his pupils become, that Koppay, the gU'ted Herman artist, neglects all £us former favorite studies and gratifies the curious with his strikingly faithful reproductions of fencing passages between fair antagonists, lac-similes of which accompany this resume. Ilerr Hartl insists that if fencing were generally introduced in women's schools, seminaries and colleges, and practiced by married women in their homes, u vigorous,' healthy womanhood, free from nervous diseases and all manner of maladies classed under the lu-ad of woman's delicacy, would result. Of course it shocks the modesty of the average woman to be under the training of a mau in this art on account of the costume, but there are woman teachers in most largo cities. In Chicago, where there is a large contingent of women now inteiv ebtwd, there- is, iu cine of the fencing schools the handsome Juguarine. the champion woman rapier tighter in tho world, who has defeated iu all points, many a noted swordsman"That remains to be seen," a.s boy §tu4 when he spilt the iwk ou

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