The Independent from London, Greater London, England • 63

THHNDEFENDBTC ON SUNDAY 4 JUNE MM 3 TRAVEL UK Alexander Hrjuse waaftfeW Bitting dlecrceth among green nxhogdownson the edge of a smaU West Sussex viaage, Turners Hill, about raw miles from Gatwickandaefrminute drive from London on the M25U. Address: Alexander House Hotel, Turners HiS, West Sussex, RH10 4QD (tet 01342 714014). vM-sRatft Small and luxurious, more of a country home then a hotel. Originslhsl7th-ctaurymaiur -house on a farm, it was later home to Percy Bysshe Shelley and William Campbell Governor of the Bank of England. There are only 16 bedrooms.

The current owners have ensured an rtegant.fcmfly at mm adhere, with art and sntiques everywhere. Worthy of joining the Small Ijmay Hotels of the World chain, as It did last December. CrviHsmg and gracious. A pair of lovebirds in a large gilded cage greet you In the ball as you sign in, and the bird motif fa) continued fat the calm, muted yebow-goid and pink colour scheme, whether In sOkscreen birds of paradise or on the porcelain and furniture. LTheMWkfcdtadfclWeHartioinratM ithefauidlogartheScoatiiitfi Adelt combination of the formal, the familiar and the sincere.

Don't forget your woggle Sarah Butcher visits Brownsea Island, home to Scouts, squirrels and John Lewis employees Tasteful, individual and spacious. Throughout the hotel, for example, carpets are woven by Wilton Royal and the Gainsborough silk curtains have been matched to an 18th-century design; toe chair-coveringB are by rercheron of Paris. The library deserves a special mention, filled si it is with leather-bound antiquarian volumes and English oak panelling The Goodwood suite (COS a night) has an Empire fourposter bed, reputedly a gut from Napoleon to Marshal Hebec Even the sinxjaer double rooms (from 119) have tbe luxurious touch of tape strife and antique prints. BROWKEAISUllwD To put members of the Scout movement, the words "Brownsea bland" are Bkejy found vaguely fentiaEThelargertofthe idandi in FOoie Harbour in Dorset, it wu here that Robert Baden- msjiTwirfwiafisii)ntifliiithigtfftht 177,000 required for the island's annual upkeep. The feet that Brawnsra Island fa) owned by the National Trust at iB, as opposed to one of the inuaonaires who circle it in their yachts or overlook It from oxorhttanth expensive houses on Poole Harbour, la due to Its previous owner.

The ardent vegetarian lira Bon-ham Christie died hi 1M1 and left the island to the National Trust in ben of death Ames. Under her 14-year ownership, parallels could more easuy ham been drawn between a James Bond adventure than StDottotM and Amaaons -Scouta were forbidden to camp there and Mrs Christie employed a statuesque Swedish woman to patrol the beaches and expel intruders. During her tone, Mrs Bonham Christie, whom photos reveal bore an eerie reternWanrr to the Queen Mother, ferbade the Uaug of any of Call to find out mere about Btowaasa Island (tec Bau 707744). Beets leave frees Hanrihoaks, Having dxwjmbarhod from the yefluw fell I set out to walk round the southern half of the island. The path from the quay qukxdy became the Ant of the many open spaces, where an old dwiwii revealed a recumbent efflgy of the popular Van Raalte.

A similar effigy of William Benson was predictably absent, Fast the church, swide track led through the forest on the Interior of the Island. Oak trees hundreds of years old, huge beech trees and nine owes dwarfed anything on the nearby mainland. Dtuwietea Twaodis eneiilvey an aihxhhked system of "tovah apota fcra There is, however, cnty one shop, next to the quay, so to take advantage of the numerous picnic opportunities it is necessary to come equipped. If not, you will find yourself (as 1 found myself), hungry and thirsty, and oo the wrong side of the Island. Dauyihalen1 and siiifcring frame headache, I stumbled upon the modern-day Scout camp.

There were no Scouts about but there was a Glastoriwry-sryfe totem rofe covered to carved rlaoues declaring bad been here. Mocking my failure to obey the Scout dictum that you should always be prepared, the drinking-water taps at the camp Scouts, and which fa) interlaced with wejhnauitained forest paths and large open spaces rtminkcimt of a goK course, is run by the National Trust The north side is run by the Dorset WiUne Trust and fa) out of bounds. Enclosed behind large gates and fences, this northern area has a certain mystique. I was tempted to charter one of the many boats cruising Foole Harbour to take me there, wondering whether I might find a group of breakaway wwitianwjthernlnries of rare birds. However, the island's contemporary character is more SvmBoios and Amaaons than The Beach or The Lord athe FUef.

There's a sense, undoubtedly created by the lack of carainerdalhwnon and the quiet forests, that the island is a benign rebc of the past The mock-Gothic castle by the landing quay reinforces this sense ofhhtory. Equally though, the castle's closure to visitors and its lease aa a holiday home for employees of the John Lewis partnership, are a rnmrnerrial feme that drive the island's current use. Even with John Lewis maintaining the castle, the Natiouu Trust dsimstohavea 00,000 annual deficit from running the bland. Sea defences and the maintenance of the habitat for the rare red squirrels are among the a group of young girls so that I could have a drink. In my final dash fer the 5pm ferry, I caught momentary aJinaxwJBoftwo of me island's special inhabitants: a red squirrel and a John Lewis employee.

In the case of the of a tail up a tree; in the case of the John Lewis employee, retreat occurred with the flick of a towei through the castle gate. Despite the absence of watering-holes on the west of the island, itself undoubtedly part of a policy to restrict rubbish, the National Trust does srtoutmmakBBfe pleasant for visitors to Brownsea. Parents are maebloonedthelateetmalUerrain three wheeled pushchairs and there is a special room for nursing mothers to use. Also, there fa) wheelchair access on the quay However, despite the solicitude of the National Trust volunteers, my visit did not end as it should. When the boats arrived to take us back to the I eschewed the yellow boat for a better-looking large white one.

It was only when I was halfway across the harbour that I realised that the white boat bad an altogether diffprwit destination than Sandbanks, where I had left my car. I ended up in Poole, forced to reb on my Scout-tike sense of direction to get back. In the end I took a taxi. Paole aad BonraeaMatb. every half hear The last boat leaves thekdaadatSpaa.

The fee fix-entrance to the island CLM fer adults aad fer children (Ffcariry tieaet-HlM for two adults and three cfaaracter-buiiding bays' dubs. In 1907, 11 bays of averse social origin joined mm on the south coast of the Island, and thr Scouring movement began in an orgy of campfirea end To people who arent scouts, Brownsea Island is flfcery to be less familiar. It is, though, worth making anacqjMnntauuewilhlheplace-and in moat rases it can omy be an acquaintance: the first boat far the island leaves at ULlaam and the last returns at 5pm. With careful planning, therefore, It is possible to spend a maaimum of sbt and three-quarter hours on the Island. The absence of cars and the presence of larger unlettered wilclife (including red squirrels) win, however, make these few hours enjoyable.

I had only two and half hours to explore Brownsea Island. It was far too brief a visit, and my enjoyment was rtstipninused by an urge to cover al the island's forest paths before tune ran out Brownsea Island kdrvided in two. The south side of the island, which still has a rampsiti) rtWbratert to FnfllMi Mid SVurli hiit naminm -the restaurant (with pianist) has been awarded an RAC Blue BJbbon every year since 1995 and also three AA Rosettes. Both my salad of lobster with truths and my duck breast wim latin of endives did very nicehc The extensive world-rlaes and vintage champagne and wine list (more than MO bins) provided a tantalising and pleasurable pre-prandial distraction. Hwgalaiaf The ISftecre estate has tennis courts and croquet lawns, and even a beauty salon, but pottering about in the aardens seems the most fitting way to spend an afternoon.

In the surrounding countryside, rkfagtroiaVfishu and day-piayjon shooting can be arranged. Gfytafebounie and Brighton are close for day and night-tripping. SOPHIE JAMES me Island's animals and let the i owned by the sociable vhn Raaka feodh; Brownsea Island has also been home to a pottery and a time, I did manage to make it round the Wand, and saw the Scout the old pottery, a fire tower and an old kitchen watt. I also sat on the quiet beach st the west of the island, where the encircling private mega- has been devastated by fire. Esther suD, in the 1700s, the Wand was owned by William Benson, who grew rare plants and practiced satanic rituals on the beaches.

i weigh anchor, and where Despite my thirst and lack of large pumpcnon water pistol from ARsilCllJUR TMVHIBs: THE WORLD THIS WEK ON TV AND MM) WHAT'S ON WWUMJTl IK why the Costa del Sol has been are taking their sun-glasses lo renamed the Costa del GoK Alaska to find out why Amerv Edward Enfield visits Gran ca's9th state la such a popu- (tearkacdMargberkaTaylor lar holiday destination. Fighting kites and dancing diggers BBCLMOnm visits just some of Seville's aVSOOtapasbara. DURHAM LITERATURE FESTIVAL Wtahwja Were Here RKTpm Mary Nightingale travels to the quiet resort of Cala San Vicente on Majorca's north coast Fiona FuDerton aam-pies the defighta of Paris, and three couples head fer Margarita Caribbean ialandjust off the coast of Venezuela. Judith Chalmers opts fer a weekend hi Suffolk, driving an Aston Martin. Carol SnaBbe quhaea the other nreaeBtewonttiefrtnphflbney (liiiHiistloiii ewHta Guha opts for Swiss fknvlh break, Jeremy Spake Ukea to party with the stars fo Miami, Aason Cobqpb is sn Okfbnl (kvotM SHOTS IN THE DARK -rrnTSNATIOrfAL CRIME, MYSTERY AND THRQJR FESTIVAL TaeffastfeethwiaimeUK taUa partem Peewrd MaEHBlk'-.

BBCttpaa First in a three-part series recreating epic Journeys of intrepid explorers. uThe First American Dream: the Journey of Lewie and dark" kicks off the aeries of dramsnsed doe- Ilia. that midlrttaher eta JRBBBaHn sWwiageT-aftwai first man to i IllLltpH the WUtsunday Islands. Ruby's AawaVaa Pie BBCXHMpas The start of a new abtpart back to bar homsland In the first Installment she looks at the American port-cum-eiitertalninent of from the east coast to the Pa-dflc In search of a trade route. Some of the "rookie reps find out whafs involved In a foam party as they take on their first batch of bohoaymakerB.

Radio 4, Mam nro-wiveaing APkrsTale ChMuwl4.XJ A docunwsnery feuuwlug me Journey across Haul by two ToaiaadCaakaaiaa.aad ASk HaRI JgEWwMBgm rlssrtrosairhMTlteCbhwiet WIS Selfwilgrn a preview oDrCfclfooKiBVdiahta efaia at novel ffotpfta K.JKsB Ymxilfc5( HaflB lirMiioaiiiajliiiii DaadUoe. wKm WlJ'X fgVJBB nihil nfP fn IT MO June, nnrioui wanes, WKaSSI IMrAk MA- Hfl ITaisiili Ian ana fib beam Durham rtet MM JOJMHI RipL w4 vaVawawi CltoBedtobea PETERBOROUGH KITE rH-V 5B nnTVAL IwIXrI Media CanalvoMiajton Teany bears wHl learn how nMWlIJ. iwnfcasiaaal steal liiaaai I awaawawaawL' iSawjl WOMAN SON wMwjatawtlhealiiwglkof Upapaadawwy toPeterboraaeh TkeassawMrasfthe laiwjsalag kit ua. Aerial Beast ofBedaato.Ifywa've Mayst braes banal Deveani paZdtaheOarflae'wi ansiaiiisteeateff aotawdeitkitheDoaBS, sm sumakhaptaW taliinilai aMaeaasdsawag nppsaaats'lfaies result In tawrewBbeaatUatare axeMeawavwUpwrfenibi eateWhassnlOMeiMk eh? aHee aesmavntliigto eawvaa versienheie sewaag the tens iiommi. -waefoejed.

Tate, the first the gToaaw. The last Ute aaaaarMaferuwIaaiaau T-UJiawateJsaftowewl IflsQIi aikfellliB sswil staaiBwks. artteta. taswiSoJooeibs, Devon apsrhlraaeti ml UJiawAnyMswioioi SJiawiIbxilCbmHaS CloiewfylHomLavie, aasawavnat IWsrocwuph (tatOlZOftUini. POWER IN THE PARK iipisiinlatin mens.

tUkumimm. AfrBeetasartbtlkwpasw. tertaawMkislmanlaaaway. SAIjCOMBE 1EB1IVAL aHhfcm swim feed mwfatlBfctnwBl anal BXTilAL CORNWALL SHOW Bfsssaliiati.jsthniaeil ajasare. at Finland's capital, Befamoki, one of Europe's nine dties ef cultore winch is afeo preparing to celebrate fis 450th annhjw aary on 11 June.

The guide to awawSonSswrLsmds Chsaaili.l.IOsas The astoataacr leaves bk moon chart at hMteaaslvfate some of his 'fevourite kicatlonB aiuuud the Brittsh Ibbbb, Pin Wsnrl Basts, to try to find any aur-vhdng native pip. The pigs were massacred 11 yean ago mciapas Helsinki is theatre Arectoc Mora raunchy fningi on in TV pressnter, writer and by a US aid I at ttie onenmsexanr satirist nob Harawlca; a Bnt baasd at the reeort Bedanisni who moved out there yean n. Thai week a couple from Tlnlmi I Sn HiiiI.i ill. mtmwm A BBCLTnaa The first cfanewMparti TfeayBMa'GaBdetetwi Gwktes part aeries by the journey aaid I mriing iTsi iriiiir ir of a eountiy that ivxaataa Brails 4, 11, ass ss anoane Tony Hants rwdtraies tastlat edde boohs, thai week aektai JCBdftnsrswwIbe mlhadMlfesatewM Demand Laease en the fcrasarkMenartecand caarjsrwsantaebartiser neatltet. Thaawai land fran Jeraa- evarytlsng Wasia, a odUtaJrasJbr CbwAwaaxw Ganlra; Zmokss AWsrnrsiswhk a-brewoitopaekaa itokTwAtlHmbyBMtothe aaaltamwMBeasaale, laite Awmrtttekwrheraawai Aeexejftaxwhowa9AtM' Newaaww Saw wttl be aawBsswgfcrwtoesi Mapnts Da Vine end Shnon ffttepkAaraofGavatOiawsh Crlan start a new aeries of eanidhkefciys to Ahdf BoaGvibMThfetliMtfaay ghost i at of i aad golf.

Doiuae Vteond KhB bfa clubs and finds out heap aatae the afyssery of the thestreeta.taSaaq(the tumuXOS)..