Newsday (Suffolk Edition) du lieu suivant : Melville, New York • 34

Estevez' New Style Outlook Is Broader By Betty Ommerman Newsday Fashion Editor New York- A woman can always find clothes to enhance her figure, but styles that do the same for the normally proportioned male are rare. At least that is the opinion of Luis Estevez, the Havana-born designer who has enhanced many a woman's figure with his dresses and furs. In his new knits he has attempted to do the same for the man with broad shoulders and narrow waist and hips. don't like the Brooks Brothers' look for men," the 38-vear-old, blonde-haired, brown-eved designer said. "A man's figure is shoulders, chest and slim hips.

Mens wear needs to be sexy-and masculine." Estevez, who has just finished designing a mens wear collection for Saint Joseph, a French firm whose clothes are imported by Cezar, is his own best model. A perfect size 40 with wide shoulders that look almost padded and narrow waist and hips, he has been designing his own wardrobe for the past 10 vears. "CT just couldn't find anything in a store to fit me." he said recentlv in the firm's Madison Avenue showroom. "Tf it fit in the shoulders, it swam at the hips. If it fit in the hips, it was too small at the shoulders.

So last year, when a mutual friend of James Bandler (vice president of Cezar) and myself suggested we get together and talk about doing a line for the Latin-type male, I was all for it." The clothes suits, sweaters, pants and jumpsuits- are all done in wool knit for spring and will be available February in Bonwit Teller, Manhasset, and Field Brothers, Garden City. Prices range from $40 to $75 for sweaters, $105 to $125 for jackets, $60 to $70 for slacks, $180 to $200 for suits. $50 for shirts and $110 for jumpsuits. "Knit became popular for women 15 years ago," Estevez said. "Now it's time that men got into the act." He believes that the jumpsuit, a unisex fashion, is the coming thing for men, since there is no worry of the shirt slipping out of the trousers.

He also likes to see it combined with a single-breasted and tapered jacket for the appearance of a business suit. Estevez, who started out studying to be an architect at the University of Havana before switching to fashion design and winning a Coty Award in 1956. still does a collection of women's styles in Los Angeles, women's furs for Somper and the wardrobe for Lana Turner's new fall television series on CBS, "The Survivors." But it is the tapered mens wear designs which currently intrigue him the most. see mens wear in the future going out of the kooky styles to the more level-headed stage," he said. "When the revolution in mens wear began, it was too revolutionary." Newsdav Photo by Don Jacobsen Luis Estevez Wears a Broad-Shouldered $175 Suit He Designed Carnegie Mansion to Be Museum New -Andrew Carnegie's dressing nounced the appointment of a 36-year-old room will house a museum collection of objects woman, Mrs.

Bertrand L. Taylor III of New from the Far East, and his billiard room will York, as the director of the Cooper-Hewitt. Mrs. Taylor, the former Lisa Suter, formerly be the setting for precious jewelry that is served as director of the Smithsonian Associanother part of the collection. These are ates, developing wide-ranging educational and among the uses contemplated for the 64-room cultural programs for the membership group Carnegie mansion at Fifth Avenue and 91st of about 9,000 families.

In her new post, she Street when it becomes the new home of the will be in charge of a collection of more than Smithsonian Institution's Cooper-Hewitt Mu- 100.000 decorative objects, including textiles, seum of Decorative Arts and Design. embroideries and laces, metalwork and cosS. Dillon Ripley, secretary of the Smith- tume accessories. sonian, signed yesterday a 16-year, rent-free The Carnegie mansion was built in 1901 lease, beginning July 1, 1970, with option to at a cost of about $1,500,000. After Mrs.

Carpurchase July 1, 1981. The Cooper-Hewitt negie's death in 1946, it was leased rent-free expects to move from its present quarters at in 1949 to Columbia University's School of Third Avenue and 17th Street by 1971 after Social Work. Consisting of five stories with alterations and repairs are made at the tenant's subbasement, it is considered one of the city's expense. outstanding examples of post-Victorian archiAt the signing ceremonies, Ripley also an- tecture. Learn to Show Anger Without Insult -Continued From Page 1A with a plum velvet sash, that looked like a masquerade costume.

She planned to wear it to school. Gloria knocked on the door saying: 'Please open up! Wait till you see it on me. It fits perfectly and I look so feminine and "I opened the door and 'that color' hit me. I was tired and irritated but I also knew that she had been waiting for me since Saturday and there was no putting it off. "Again I clung to my motivation and skills.

The action at hand was to return the dress without threatening her sense of taste. I remarked: 'I can see why you're SO taken with the dress but it's inappropriate for school, and too 'But isn't the color she asked. I felt as if a vise had closed in around me. I swallowed once and took a stab at honesty. 'Some people like that I said.

'It's not one of my she attacked, 'you love that 'It's not one of my favorite colors for clothes, but I do like to use it in my I replied. "At this point she was ready for a philosophical argument, but I kept to the main point. 'I can see how much Saturday, September 13, 1969 you love that dress. It's not going to be easy for you to return it. Could you do it tomorrow "No, I'll have to do it in the she said slowly, and left the room, after bidding me a hasty good night." Instead of trying to suppress anger altogether, parents can express it in nondestructive ways.

This expression should bring some relief to the parent, some insight to the teenager, and no harmful aftereffects to either of them. In expressing anger we consciously need to avoid creating waves of resentment and revenge. We want to get our point across, and then let the storm subside. To deal with times of stress, we should acknowledge these truths: 1. We accept the fact that in the natural course of events teenagers will make us uncomfortable, annoyed, irritated, angry and furious.

2. We are entitled to these feelings without guilt, regret or shame. 3. We are entitled to express our feelings, with one limitation. No matter how angry we are, we do not insult teenagers' personality and character.

How to Be Angry There are certain concrete ways to deal with our anger. The first step in any annoying situation is to describe clearly how it affects us, adding nothing else. When Gary, age 15, started clinking his fork on a plate, his mother said, "The noise makes me very uncomfortable." Gary gave several more clinks and stopped. This method was effective because mother did not tell her son what to do. She described her discomfort and took it for granted that he would respond.

Compare this approach to a more prevalent one: "What's the matter with you? Don't you have anything better to do? Can't you sit still? Do you have to give me a headache? Stop it this minute, P-L-E-A-S-E!" It must be added that a child cannot stop on a dime. It is necessary for him to go on with his misbehavior for a little while. It takes time to stop on one's own accord. The following incident illustrates the point. Fourteen-year-old Gideon was playing basketball near his home early one Sunday morning.

The bouncing of the ball woke up his father. He said; "I wanted to sleep until 10 o'clock today. The ball woke me up." "I'm sorry," said Gideon. He bounced the ball twice more and left. Father realized that the additional bouncing was a face-saving device.

Gideon demonstrated to himself that he stopped of his own volition, not because of orders. What if our teenager continues his annoying behavior? If our short protests and long faces have not brought relief then we express our feelings louder and stronger. "It is annoying." "It is very annoying." "It makes me feel angry." "It makes me feel very The purpose of these statements is to reduce our tension and bring some relief to ourselves- then and there. They also serve as a warning to our teenager that we are approaching the limits of our tolerance. More often than not, the mere statements of our angry feelings will bring results.

This is the sixth of a series excerpted from the new book "Between Parent and Teenager," by Dr. Haim G. Ginott, published by The Macmillan Company. Copyright 1969 by Dr. Haim G.

Ginott. Monday: Listen and Learn 3 A.