The Daily Review from Decatur, Illinois on December 13, 1902 · Page 2
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The Daily Review from Decatur, Illinois · Page 2

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Decatur, Illinois
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Saturday, December 13, 1902
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Page 2
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in ,0»0«0*0*£ r £ P A R I 5 n O D E S Separate Skirts *«* WaistJ convenient thing to own. One jnutde of artistic studies is a light greon crap*. chentllly luce mounted «iver wffrre chlf- with vines and bunches of purpl* [on and ellk gives the dainty lightness. grapes embroidered in a graceful pat- which makes anything formed of black ' tern roifnd the squsre yoke. iratertal so much more becoming.! Mme. Evelyn concocts dainty blouse*. When a trimming of passementerie Is' She has the "gift of th* blouse" In a applied and a note of color given with' marked degree. One happy Idea of choux of pink chiffon u pretty effect lsThers is an original handkerchief gained. · , | waUt formed of exquisitely shaded An exquisite blouse for n young girl I reds, than which nothing is better If Is of pluk uncrushable glace silk arcor- I properly put together. Becoming and dlon plaited with Insertions of Iwe run- odd Is a walat of gray silk striped In nlng from the arm eyes to a V shape black and white and arranged on tb* almost to the n*lt. Another of these cross so that the strips form a series P Aim, Nov. I.-«very year th* season **sms to be later In arriving. Fashionable Paris does not now come back to th* capital ··til lost before Christmas. The city, of course. Is gay end crowd- 00. tat not with Dam* Fashion's vota- rtos. Btlll th* great dressmaking establishments are working day and night supplying th* absent pleasure seekers with *ultabl* costume*. There Is no m*r* ptaooant or profitable occupation tbos* «oys than a visit to some of the groat ateliers. Th* "princes de la couture." M th*y *r« called, are alway* delightfully courteou* and give Information most generously. This week I was particularly curious to know about the aoospted modes In skirts. A great deal of discussion has been going on as to the length of skirts. I found that we are to be v*ry practical this year and wear walking and tailor made skirts that just clear the ground. As usual, the smart frocks will not be quite so long as they were, though they make It up In fullness, absolutely lying In fold* around the feet. There are two styles of walking cos- tumos. on* for the plain materials, the Other for the tweeds. In the plain ma terials the skirt Ots perfectly smooth about the hips and to tha knees, but fashion demands that round the feet much trimming shall be used. Two kilts of taffeta silk about a quarter of a yard deep arc often used, one kilt above the other, stitched on to the upper part of the skirl. This Is an old Style revived, and It Is certainly becoming enough to be recalled from oblivion. On the other hand, the tweed skirt Is generally made with three narrow flounce* cut en forme, with very little fullness. These flounces are bound with velvet In some contrasting shade or ·imply stitched. The plaited skirt Is another of the "newest of the new skirts." This Is arranged In folds about the hips and at the back, but th* front gore Is kept perfectly plain. This skirt Is charming If not oompossd of too thick material. Tul- tors adore the box plaited skirt, which they put Into a plain fitted piece round th* hips. Here Is a skirt that one of the great artists considers his masterpiece this year; It Is made of »Idenlng circle* of materials, six In number, which Increase In wtdth as the hem Is reached. The top on* fits perfectly to the figure, each circle Joined on giving the Increased width by virtu* of th* cut. It Is very smart and has th* advantage of bear- Ing th* most exclusive stamp because of the difficulty of copying It. A very good cut for one of the new gray tweeds has a prettily shaped yoke In four pieces, the seams covered with ml- tered straps ornamented, as Is the edge of the yoke, by rows of stitching. The lower uart of the skirt Is In five gores. The materials of the moment for these skirts and for entire costume* are the anowflake tweeds and slbellnc* We had Oisnllar materials last year, but now the flake* are much larger. In these cloths Mu*. brown, green and red are favorite ·hades. Th* most liked In the plain material* are corduroy, velvets and vi- cuna. They combine admirably with the glace silk kilts and ruchlngs. Although the separate skirt and bodice never attain the dignity of the ensemble costume, still most women could not get along comfortably without three or; four of these separate affairs for different functions. For the theater, when a grande toilette is not de rkgueur. a dressy skirt of some kind Is a necessity. Squeezing Into the small seats usually found at places of amusement Is perfect ruination to a walking skirt, while one of a soft, light fabric Is not even mussed. A stunning skirt for the theater or an unceremonious dinner Is made of fine black crepe d* chine. Nothing Is more unsatisfactory than a cheap grade of this crape. becomes a rusty black; It pulls and but a good quality wears beautifully. This Is made with the new shaped skirt below the waist, the yoke bslng pointed and formed of alternate rows of crepe ds chine and fagoting. Under the yoke the material Is In vertical tacks a little below the knees, where It Is met by a line of the fagoting, which heads the full, shirred flounce. This flounce Is finished with rows of velvet ribbon. The black taffeta skirt still retains Its popularity and chic when made at the right sort of place. Those bought at the shops are abominations: no right minded woman who has un appreciation of clothes would be guilty of wearing one. Hut the glace silk I am going to describe Is most attractive. It has a narrow, straight front gore and a xtunnlnidy arranged triple yoke which start" fiom the front width. Krom under the yoke the body of the skirt is lalil In rather wide, Htralght plaits almost In the feet, where the skirt Is finished with two wide strnlghtly gathered flounces. These straight ll'iuiuvs arc again very much used, un th'-y give the flufllneHM that Is a feature of rill thu diesny gowns. One la reminded on all Hides thnt white In to be a perfect craze this win ter. It In rei talnly dulnty and becoming. but unless It can be worn only when Immaculate colors should be substituted. A lovely skirt of the Inevitable w h i t e IK of Ivory toned mousse- lln" de sole. It la made without a yoke tucks running to about the knee, where they are met by flve small ruffles which gradually become much higher at the back. At the front and sides these ruffles overlap In order to make possible the ascent at the back. For a woman who revels In soft, clinging effects nothing Is lovelier than a skirt of Japanese silk. The skirt Is of the seven gored variety, and on front und side gores wide bands of heavy Itusslan lace are applied. These lace Insertions are headed at the Knee by four piece* of the lace, whKh encircle thu skirt and finish two of the foot flouncei". Pettlcoatn to be worn under the dress arc as elaborate as the skirt Itself and are no lunger of a different color, but match the (town as nearly as possible. What did womeji wear before the separate waist was a permanent and cherished feature of the wardrobe? Garibaldi, with his famous rod shirt, seems to have set the fashion for thl« Ind s- ppnsable little garment, the garibaldi bslng the first waist to have any special vogue when worn with n skirt of a different material. Thai modest little affair would hardly recognise Itself In the elaborate blouse of today unless it should happen to come upon some of the pretty morning shirt waists to be worn with the tailor coat and skirt. It Is a fad just now In Purls to have the «f potato down II* front X tart I or*d ribbon of an old fashloaotpatsst* run* around th* collar throtsjth sjMJot hots* and contUMM down 0M MM*r box plait, where *» tk* in a big bow. Tata of thlo Introduced on tho top of .tM tiny llttl* on** on tho cuff*. Whlteoatm of ft-koayr ,, way*mak**aalo*w**st ·* . It be an Ivory and «ot a ctoam Whtto. ts the croam I* mighty apt to yellow tt not moon worn. Att satin waist I* laid In wld* plait* and front Between the** plaits, nlng up from tho waist and down th* neck, are strtos of openwork om- broidsry. Appllqu* strap* of Ivory Whit* silk are arranged on tho ·boul- ders, forming a collar. The band I* finished at the neck with strap* of turquoise blue velvet draw* through past* buckles. At the throat there is a jabofc of lace and chiffon with llttl* chain* of silk ball* looped across tk* front has a very good efl'ut t nlie.ii the coat Is wearing the Heavy, mercerized cheviots so much en evidence lust Hummer, but whether cotton, silk or wool, while la the approved color. White bedford cord made with a few tutks back and front Is a serviceable all round waist. This cord cleans und even washes well. Corduroy makes another good, substantial waist. The vlyeilu cloth is very successfully used for this nuipose. There Is a softness and a fineness about this material which m.ike It cxpedally good for separate Mouses. A neat blouse may be made ol the vlyellu In one cf the many varieties In mauve. pink, blue or black Imely .striped w i t h white. Paquln has sonic IK u u t i f u l models for dinner ami evenlnn wear; Indeed, BO tempting arc thesis confections thnt none but the hardest of fc-rnlnlne. hearts could possibly resist their attractions. One of alencon lace was perfectly fascinating. A black lace or chiffon Mouse Is a SOME PRETTY SEP ABATE SKIETS AND WAISTS THAT AEE WORN IN PARIS. The surpllbkd waist is one of the novelties of the winter, both for dress bodies and coats. Sleeves on all this season's waists ar» fearfully and wonderfully fashioned. Indeed, the couturier** must hare exhausted all their stock of ideas In th* designing of these elaborate affairs. Every age, epoch and material seem* to be drawn upon for help In their construction, but to be swagger one'* sleeves must be as eccentric as Is consistent with beauty. No wise woman will Ignore this hint. The art of dress can do wonder* for a woman, and those who laugh at th* victims who pay attention to th* dictates of this tyrant are making a mistake. It Is not necessary to devot* one's entire lime to dress, but every woman should give It a certain amount of thought. No matter how elegant your gown, If It Is not becoming the effect Is lost. Do not wear a thing simply because It Is the style or smart. Study your own good points and gown yourself with the object of bringing them Into prominence. CATHERINE TALBOT. ·**'··· »T»I»I».»·*·*' *·«..* ·***· 3**±£ -+**- ,.*.... S OME Useful and Ornamental ....Bits of Antique Furniture « .«··*'* *****·« "4H H-^»; *»»T *' *T *T»T»T.»«.»***«-H' "·* A NTIQUS furniture Is Interesting and Instructive If not always beautiful, but whatever appearance it presents Its chief function I* usefulness. It Is obvious that a table, a chair or a side- hoard belong* to a different order of Utility from an ebony cabinet or a princely Italian coffer, all ornamentation and gilding. It is fascinating to Otudy some of these developments and to charaotwtN a few pieces which will oerve strictly practical--even prosaic-purposes. All designs ought, of course, to be In keeplng-or at all events not oo* of koeplng-wlth the original pur- poo* of th* object to which they are applied- but If the sins against art had never bsen committed the study of furniture would be far less attractive. The temperament of an age to well OBpTMMd In its furniture--the French love of display In rococo designs, the English appreciation of the substantial In Chippendale and Sheraton and our American blending of race Ideas In the adoption of artistic furniture both friv- olou* and **v*r*. If every one had been alway* blameless and virtuous. bow dull would be the annals of his On* cannot do better than begin with · description of a napkin press. This beautiful addition to a linen room Is of very oarly date, belonging to the days of mi»*beth. It ha* all th* character of Bliiabethan work, with a little more ·laboratlon. Th* proportions are happy, with an abundance of sturdy ·bonglb. and th* carving I* good and tfttl. Thl* b**ut.lful press must ddlghted generations of house, tb* old time kind who reveled ,,· otore* of linen and took per- feOMl oar* of th*ir *ke*t* and table- Uotho, otiowlng tb* *w**t smelling lav- oodor between th* h** linen and overlooking th* maid* wall* th* linen was "°*"* SM« and put away. This old ,, wOl aloo appeal to the ho«*e today, th* old faohloited kind Mko. Ilk* Mr*. Primrose, ·'none could · bitbeartofhomemaking A w Mo* of this pros* would mak* a oaf. aoBSPtskle gift ttr th* mod first twenty years of the latter part of the eighteenth century and Is a wonderfully unique example of much In little, It Is a very graceful little piece, the property of a Lady Beaumont a noted beauty. This piece Is more ornate than the other toilet table. The Kluss has no bevel, but the frame, being glided and carved, does away with any SUK- ter w h l i h him found Us way Into the maiket is u \ciltable abbot's bench. It Is the oriKlnul pattern so often copied at the present day In our hall Bottle, or fan pattein on the panels, but th* double nisslns; lance shapes are seldom found. The color of the chest Is the natural wood without that addition of w i t h a box under the seat and a hl«h I Mirnish or beeRwa}, which often gives li»ck formlni; H table when requited. This ben. h lius no modern hinges. Instead there Is n thick wooden pin pushed through the holes attaching the to oak pieces a. smeary appearance. Turning from the English antique, we find that the old French furniture Is even more alluring, but the new designs Imik un-l arms. It IM supposed to be j In this style are too eccentric in.their very ancient and was the property of | dread^of a HtralghMlne and predllec- an abbot in an Uiu.'l-'h priory. Another piece !· »t ?'. 1 mild oak dower cheat richly « a r bearing II" tlon for centiped legged tables and chairs to be anything but absurd. The after originality has made owner. At oa · tied .I'^nmnu'^if Thol »'«·"' p n l n f u l to a degree and dangerous , narrow deep I" ""'I'' '·'··'«·« 1'ropo'llons BS a place u narrow, t i t t p j ^ ^^ ^ ^ Wften we go back neeilul till' money \ i i } r.iucii. i u u may gather from the following how is a ptoc* to her JHofml antfcr**. _ ol*Mt to ay · oMp. whm-w* will Kasapls of the iblnatlon dress- to th* gestlon of stiffness. ful specimen of Its kind. Old toilet upnrei iatcd by its owner glasses are very hard to find, the ones who when selling tlie dies' to an Amer- of the Thlppendale period being much You intent ill! well h a x e J t , The old furniture shops Louis XIV Settee with pad feet and legs and shell ornament* at the knees, the swinging, carved and glided touch of lightness. mirror adding a The sloped part lelVdown to form a toilet or writing table and makes a dainty desk for any debutante's boudoir. This desk Is mad* of walnut, but probably later on in the century mahogany would have been used in Its construction. Btlll when walnut is carefully chosen U Is a lovely wood and was when this piece was mad* In high favor for purpose* for which oak seemed h*avy. . . . . , _ The walnut chest with glided toilet glass Is another handsome bit of old furniture, and a charming face was of. ten reflected In tab mirror, a* It was Heavy Oak Chest. i ·JfJOvVpSijiBj BJ · w-vv m m ·-- - - - - - - - - NOTES AND NEWS FOR WOMEN ttoMU sflJfluW*"^!**^* 1 * to ·-"· k fflttW*-** · mw« fe MBffM* w *··«· ktooraoclos k* will teach should live well, take aotiv* outdoor ·«- erclse twice a day *»d also have a dally If you can bear th* heat bf a ponltle* OB th* MM* of jw feud, in CM ·*· hardly ever have one of these mirrors, as they are to be only found In old English houses, whose owners never can be brought to part with them except when In extremes. An old bit of a very different charac- MUMIHHBHItHIMMMWUMUIHIMMPW't ply. It to the *kia of another without fear of burning. Vegetarianism is again becoming a fad. l A child must haVe liberty, the little one* who are always restrained from doing something wmply because It an- you admire It so much. Half my life It has been out In one of the barns." In the new home It occupies an honored An exquisite piece of the old regime furniture Is a Louis Quatorsj settee Nothing could be mom typical of Its time than this settee, which shares the honor with'the glided taboret the righ (age of seating more than one psrsotx Both r.re elaborately carved and gilded and covered with magnificent figured silk. The eighteenth century had probably run almost to a close when this Inlaid cabinet was made. With it* rich Inlay and elegant scrolls and wheat car pendants. It comprises ntuoh of th* favorite ornamentation of the last century; but Its glory comes from th* plaques of Sevres with which the side* and ends are enriched. The delicious blues and reds form the perfection of decoration and render such a cabinet almost priceless. The Sevres of that period were delightful In their coloring, never obtrm- slve. Unfortunately the modern Sevros are not so happy In ton*. Many American millionaire homes can boast tho possession of one of these cabinets, for a number of them were made, and at he sales of antique furniture from tho great chateaux the dealer* have been able to pick up beautiful cabinet* of this kind. The French and Dutch marquetry work Is beautiful, the French being; daintier than the Dutch with It* strong tulip pattern. Still both are exquisite n design and finish. A sewing stand of marquetry is a lovely and useful artfc le to possess. V4ry unique I* what IB England is called a dinner wagon. TUo wagon Is only used In some of th* great houses or old Inn*. It I* the size and shape of th* cart the i sors vender pushes along the street and In used to carry Into the dining hall extremely heavy roasts that th* fesjt|*r could not manage. Th* meat I* out ta the pantry, and th* servant pushes th* wagon around the table so each guest may select a piece to hi* taste. · Tb* t** wagon which Is much In demand 1st a diminutive and useful member of th* same family. The colonial style of furniture in always good. A big, comfortable, long sofa, with Its rolled end* and high bock. Is perfect for a largo, square hall. Mission furniture -- th* Santa Barbara pieces-- are fine In their strong simplicity, and the chain of this kind ar* models of comfort Buch a ptty U I* that so much of th* old furniture to thrown away by inecperlenoed person* when it Is badly battered or broken, for in most cases, even when whole pteoso are gone. It can be restored U taken to the right man and th* original beauty brought back. A chair, for Ingtano*. can be made equal to new whoa tho stay-- which to th* front plsos of wood holding the f rant* round th* osat-- Is entirely gone. Bsrt an arttotl* craftsman must be the restorer, not tin ordinary cabinet maker, who Is often little mar* than a carpenter. William Morris, tho master craftsman, ha* glvon th* b**t possible advice about decoration* In tho home, and it applies to antio.u* furniture as well: "Have nothing In your houses that you do not taow to b* «os- ful or ornamental. place. Two of tho decorative motives to occupy which was so jealously prised are common ones, the ornament on the by the ladles at the court of the Grand* upper rail and the conventional flower 1 Monarque. The settee has the advan This Is a _ mighty safe role to fallow noys older people are bound to become nervous. Think how you yourself would feel to be always told, "You mustn't do that" To amuse baby does not mean that you must devote your whole time to It does mean that h* must have playthings and that he must be taught to amuse himself. It will pay you to take time to ascertain what agrees with your baby and then to' see that he gets It The shah of Persia Is the happy poo- senor W sixty wtves ana thirty ohli- dren, quite · small hovsokotd *r eaitern monarch wk»» wo · that th* late shah bad ovor 1. ·*ho«r%**st*v*ry«»jr EWSPAPER .'SPAPERf

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