Newsday from New York, New York • 118

MAHARAJAH QUALITY SWEETS SNACKS 73-10 37th Ave. Jackson Heights 718-505-2680 ITS THING: Vegetarian Indian food and a huge array of confections. ITS TIMES: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

YOUR TAB: Soups and appetizers, $1 to main dishes with rice or nan (bread), $5.99 to desserts, $1.95 to $3. YOUR STOP: 74th Street Broadway on No. 7 train; Roosevelt Avenue stop on and trains. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Restaurant on street level but bathroom could be a tight squeeze. By Sylvia Carter STAFF WRITER Maybe at some other places the back side is displayed as well; would that we had known that we could have ordered masala dosa, the thin, crisp crepes made of rice and fermented lentils and stuffed with savory potatoes and onions.

Would that we had known we could have ordered iddly, steamed patties of lentils and rice with a spicy dipping sauce called sambar, made of split peas or dal flavored with tomatoes, coriander, turmeric, tamerind, chile and other fragrant spices. We knew none of this, though these are among our favorite South Indian vegetarian foods, until we picked up a copy of the menu on our way out, turned it over, and noticed what we had missed. What we did eat at Maharaja was good enough to ensure return visits, not only to make up for lost time with dosa and iddly but to have seconds of some of the dishes we did enjoy. We began with chat papri, bits of fried bread tossed in a sweet and sour mixture of chutney, yogurt and onions. We also had two remarkable soups: an exemplary and fiery version of mulligatawny, rich with coconut milk and spices, and an excellent, spicy tomato soup.

Without exception, our vegetarian entrees were satisfying: We especially liked sarsoka sag, a puree of mustard greens cooked with mustard seeds; palak paneer, cubes of homemade cheese with spinach and plenty of onion and garlic; and aloo gobi, potatoes and cauliflower in a spicy tomato sauce. hen you go to Maharajah Sweets, be sure back neath To to be and the look sure, front, glass at the on the before the menu you paper is tabletops, order. menu, visible but both be- we could see only the inside portion of it. New Korean By Rose Kim new Korean restaurant, BawooA few ling gogae, Flushing, and weeks 35-48 ago noodle in Union 718-762-7933, a house. former Its first opened dump- menu floor, a offers a wide selection of dishes, including barbecued meats, spicy and mild casseroles, hot and cold noodles and steamed and fried dumplings.

The bi-bim-bap, a dish mixing rice, vegetables and meat, was well-prepared, with fresh, lightly seasoned vegetables and, on the side, two types of kimchi, the spicy pickled cabbage, cucumbers or turnips that accompany Korean meals. From Monday to Friday, the restaurant has a $5.99 lunch special, offering a choice of a dozen dishes. If you order the dumplings, go with the pan-fried, rather than the steamed. The staff is friendly and solicitous, and the small, well-lit dining room looks out School. B27 FOOD B27 FOOD Ears DINNER TONIGHT Newsday Photo Julia Gaines Sukhdev Bawa, owner of Maharaja, carries a tray laden with jalebi sweets.

If you think that spicy is the operative word here, you're right, and that suited us fine in other dishes, too, such as chana masala, chickpeas simmered with pomegranate. A mixture of vegetables cooked in a thick, luxurious curry sauce was another favorite at our table. Rices deserve special mention. Jeera pulao, a seasoned rice heady with the scent of cumin seeds, and lemon rice made with lemon zest and toasted mustard seeds, were lovely to look at, to smell and to eat. Tandoori-oven breads were freshly made, from deep-fried poori to aloo paratha stuffed with curried potatoes.

We refrained from ordering even more food only because we had glimpsed the bounteous assortment of sweets displayed in a glass case at the front of the restaurant. Each fresh confection seemed better than the last, indeed almost amazing. There was a kind of exquisite fruit jelly, almond candy somewhat like fudge but more delicate, halvah with a hint of cardamom, even a sweet treat made of lentils, and, of course, old favorites such as gulab jaman, fried cakes soaked in syrup, and ras malai, cheese balls in a sauce of condensed milk. We haven't tasted better. And as we paid the bill, we speculated that the reason an eatery where prices are so modest accepts credit cards is that some patrons buy extravagant amounts of these delightful morsels.

Who could resist? News Nores Restaurant With Spices tarian) and tasty grilled chicken sandwiches, as well as an extensive breakfast, lunch and dinner menu, has opened its outdoor dining area. Amici Amore 29-35 Newtown Astoria, 718-267-2771, has a threecourse, prix-fixe lunch for $14.95, from noon to 3 p.m. Tuesday to Friday. A three-course dinner is available for $19.95 from 4 to 6 p.m. on the same days.

Bartolino's, 34-15 Broadway, Astoria, 718-728-7522, an Italian restaurant, has "family nights" on Monday and Wednesday; for $40, get enough pasta, salad and bread to feed four hearty appetites, along with a large pitcher of soda or wine. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, Casa Romana, 39-20 Queens Sunnyside, 718-784-4768, a Romanian restaurant, presents live entertainers, ranging from singers to magicians to belly dancers. Call the restaurant for fur- In Manhattan and Good Prices and education program for city school children. Red-meat dishes from more than 20 of Manhattan's finest restaurants will be paired with red wines of the St. Francis vineyard.

The dinner event will be at Noche, 1604 Broadway (at 49th Street), 212-447-0456. Tickets, $95 for AIWF members; $110 for nonmembers. North Square is the new name for C3, a cozy restaurant and bar, 103 Waverly Place, on the northeastern corner of Washington Square Park, 212-254-1200. Along with the name change, the restaurant has renovated its dining room and redone the lighting. Check out chef Yoel Cruz's spring menu for lunch and dinner, as well as brunch on the weekends; afterward, check out the trees and flowers blossoming in the park.

From June 10 to 15, Aquavit, 13 W. 54th 212-307-7311, will have its annual week-long celebration of herring. In the cafe, a herring buffet will cost $20.02 at lunch and $32 at dinner. Meanwhile, in the dining there will be special, on Flushing High room, Delmonico's, Gage Tollner and Les price-fixed tasting menus costing $67 and In Other News Halles will be among the steakhouses par- $85. Call the restaurant for further deJackson Hole, 35-01 Bell Bay- ticipating this Monday in a red-meat and tails and to make reservations.

side, 718-281-0330, a great diner serving red wine festival to benefit the American In- Rose Kim is a regular contributor to humongous burgers (beef, turkey or vege- stitute of Wine and Food's scholarship fund Notes. A quick and easy weekday meal DINNER TONIGHT A quick and easy weekday meal By Marge Perry Part 2 here chili. variations About are on the endless basic only thing they all have in common with my version is that they contain tomatoes (in one form or another), cumin and beans. And I like most chilis topped, American style, with a dollop of sour cream or a little shredded Cheddar. Turkey Chili 1 tablespoon canola oil 1 pound lean ground turkey 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup chopped onion 1 green pepper, cut into dice 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes 1 (19-ounce) can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed 2 teaspoons cumin 1 cup frozen corn kernels cup light sour cream 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro 1.

Heat oil in a large pot over medium high. Add the turkey and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring to break it up into crumbles, or until lightly browned. Using a large spoon, remove from pot and set aside. 2. Add garlic, onion and green pepper to the pot and cook, stirring, 3 to 4 minutes, or until somewhat softened.

Add tomatoes, beans and cumin and cook 5 minutes. Return meat to pot and stir in corn. Cook, stirring, for 10 minutes, or until mixture has thickened. 3. Spoon into 4 bowls, top with sour cream and sprinkle with cilantro.

Makes 4 servings. Nutritional Analysis For each serving: 428 calories, 38 protein, 50 carbohydrates, 12 fiber, 10 fat (3 saturated fat), 76 mg cholesterol, 950 mg sodium. Serving Suggestions Large salad made of romaine lettuce tossed with grated Parmesan cheese, sliced radishes and sliced cucumbers. Dress with oil, red pepper. dried wine thyme, vinegar, is salt olive and AVOSMEN Marge Perry a regu- lar contributor to Food.

Newsday Cookbook The best of Marge Perry's easy weeknight recipes are compiled in a Newsday cookbook, "Dinner Tonight" Call 800-400- 4112 or contact www.listore.com. Newsday Cookbook.