Newsday from New York, New York • 147

It I 1 1 M4 I I'l- MM- II Ml AJ i i '-Mill --i i lit i ft-iV f't w'-" A- cr.itiCLSjdiges Tread carefully elsewhere. Appetizer portions are small (three stuffed oysters cost and a few things, including smoked salmon and potato terrine were oversalted. Cassoulet, the famous bean stew went so fast that the kitchen was out of it by the time we ordered. Our other entrees ($13.50 to $20) and desserts ($6 each) were neither memorable nor noteworthy. Theyre only been open a week and theyre still feeling their way, said someone at the next table.

My sentiments exactly. 158 Eighth Ave. (at 18th Street), 675-6564. best thing is a moist Black Forest cake with real whipped cream and chocolate sprinkles, a dessert that makes it difficult to remember that sweets are two and a half times as fattening as everything else. 281 Third Ave.

(at 22nd Street), 473-8718. New this week: A regional French bistro called Gascogne is the current occupant of the space that formerly housed Roxanne, Aix en Provence, and Chelsea Beach. The most recent incarnation is a valiant attempt to produce food from Southwest France by chef Pascal Coudouy, the man who cooked up the Gascony festivals at the UN Plaza Hotel. Specialties include foie gras a modest slab of delicious super-rich goose liver, accompanied by toasted country bread; it can be happily shared by two. WHILE MOST restaurateurs around town are complaining about a decline in business, Rolfs, a vintage German eatery, is packing them in.

Like a throwback to old Yorkville, this is German food that makes you want to clink a gigantic stein of beer against your neighbors. Herring blanketed in cream sauce ($3.50) and tart cucumber salad ($2.50) make pleasant openers but the crowds are here for tender sauerbrauten with red cabbage Wiener schnitzel ($15.95) completed by pan-fried potatoes and well-done green beans, and the weisswurst my favorite boiled and grlled veal sausages served with mashed potatoes, gravy and sauerkraut. The next frhlpasCappleofAante 3K jfH; Uv Dont bo footed by AprBo golcten sunlight or by ttis summer fruit In grocery tp stores. Its not peach sssson yet New York chefs sre still ms king desserts with winters last apples. h' The last place youd expect a homely dessert Is Lo Pertgord, the old-guard French restaurant at 408 52nd St--1'-' pp (212 755-6244).

But fts there In chef 9P Antoine Bouteiins hot appte-frttter, a 2 FOUR SEASONS chef Seppi Renggli has moved out of the number-one spot in that kitchen to become a management consultant to the restaurant, overseeing special projects and seasonal menu changes, according to co-owner Paul Kovi. Renggli is replaced by Christian Hitch Albin, a veteran of more than 20 years in that celebrated kitchen and a longtime Renggli associate Terrance Brennan, executive chef at The Polo in the Westbuiy Hotel, becomes cheC'partner at Prix Fixe, which is targeted for a June 15 opening At Soil, on lower Fifth Avenue, chef Georgine Cavaiola, of Georgine Carmella fame, will set a new Italian direction. Entree prices have been cut 30 percent and restaurateur Richard La-vin has returned to the helm after an 8-month hiatus Nothing has been signed as yet, but come Memorial Dy, Len Allison plans, to be running a new restaurant on Shelter Island. It wont be called Huberts, however, because Allison only can use that name at his Park Avenue digs Canal Bar has closed fdr renovation, ill Is the apple pecarij cobbler at The Shelby, a pleasant Amstlcan-S style restaurant at 967 Lexington Ave. at BPl 70th Street (212 988-4524).

Its a tall cakeUke wedge of chopped apple, pecans crumble and ft comas with a scoop of smooth sweet bourbon-flavored Ice cream. One of the great reiiable desserts of Newl York is the apple cake at Chalet Suisse, 6 EJ p48th SL (212 355-0855), a restaurant that A manages to stay popular without ever being chic. Their apple cake Is a with a cookie crust, a slick of creme anglaise and then apple halves that are peeled snd thick slice that Is dipped In sweet iT 'ir ft Med nut-brown, sprinkled with powdered sugar and lemon end lime mimosa and surrounded with strawberry sauce. vCSaK 1 PUBLIC CVOKKETT IP 11- WHOLESALE OPEN TO 145-35 Rockaway Blvd. sale ends Jamaica, Queens WE ACCEPT FOOD STAMPS Tel! 7lO) 322 THE STORE HOURS: 8:004:30 SUNDAY PLENTY OF FREE PARKING EXCEPT FOR MLE ITEMS SPECIALDISCOUNTS FOR RESTAURANTS AND CHURCHES -10 DISCOUNT FOR SR.

CITIZENS WED. FRESH TENDER JUICY CHICKEN LEG Ws or CHICKEN WINGS $14.00 MIN. PURCHASE CHUCK STEAKS 39 (7 LB. MIN.) LB. 30 LB.

BOX FRESH LEAN ft ($1.28 LB.) U. WE ACCEPT FOOD STAMPS. NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR TYPOGRAPHICAL ERRORS. WE RE8ERVE THE WIGHT TO LIMIT QUANTITIES..