The Los Angeles Times from Los Angeles, California • FO6

FO6 SUNDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2020 LATIMES.COM/FOOD try making it at home? howEmilyKim, a.k.a.Maangchi, feels about it. shared countless kimchi recipes onherpopu- larYouTube channel, Cook- ingKoreanFoodWithMaangchi, and that content just for show. a wayof life. it every 63, said fromherhome inNewYork City. is actually so easy.Myentire life, beenmaking When she first startedmaking YouTubevideos13 years madekimchi in just as she learnedgrowingup inYeosu, SouthKorea.Early on, she recalls, readerswould tell her, is too much.Canyoudoone one cabbage is Kimsaid.

not going tobe very satisfiedwith a small jar.Now,my readersmake20, 30, Andmaking it at homeallows you to tailor it to your taste. like it very spicy, very a lot of anchovyand fish saucewith saidKim. lot, just ManyKorean family recipes are basedon tradition rather thanprecise instructions.Theydon’t fit on index cards, anddetails always shared freely, evenwithin the family. Recipes for kimchi andotherdishes aredevelopedover time, through observationand trial in an effort to capture the taste homecookingor to live up toadiscern- ingmother-in-law. ButKimhasneverhesitated to shareher knowledgeand love ofKore- an cuisine, or hansik.

alsobeen generouswithher time, and through her comecloser to theirKorean identity. ChefKristenKish, in SouthKoreaandadoptedwhen she was 4months old. Shegrewup in she says shewas exposed tomorePolish food influences thanKorean. introduce me toKoreanexchange students and Koreandolls andwould givemeall the resources to learnabout it.But there was suchadisconnect, and Iwill admit there is still a disconnect to this said. I under- standand I see it, and Iunderstand that it is apart ofme, but I in- nately have someemotional attach- ment to AfterwinningSeason10of invited to join Kimto filma video for thePBS AsianAmerican foodandculture series The concept, Kish giving KristenKish, the Koreanadoptee, aKorean cooking In aNewYork City test kitchen, the twomet to makekimchi and cook japchae (stir-fried glass noodleswith vegetables).

Kimwas the trulyKore- an to giveher aproperKorean cooking said, adding, I got to this dayaroundKorean insecure. I questionedmyability as a chef, and justwonand theworld saw, and here I aknife, trying to cut carrots for kimchi andmy hand is shakingbecause That insecuritywithpreparing Korean said. But after she spent timewithKim, Kish said, her paralysiswasovercome kindness. Before Kishapink silk pursewith roasted sesameseeds andabagof dried Korean chiles. verybigmoment for me, because she is amaternalKorean womanandshewasbasically engulf- ingme inacceptance and love and said.

performsas JapaneseBreakfast, also recalls howKimandher cooking lessonshelpedher feelmore connected withherKorean identity. In 2018, Zaunerwrote anemotional essay in theNewYorker, inH abouther grief following the deathof hermother. As abiracialKoreanAmerican, Zauner, thatherKorean motherwas for our turned that essay into a forthcomingmemoir about thebond she sharedwith hermother overKorean food, her grief andhowshe reclaimedher identity.) motherwas sick, a Korean caretaker came to livewith the family. The caretakermade hermother jatjuk, apinenutpor- ridge. sort of tookover the care- takingprocess, and I thinkpsychologi- cally, thatwasa real confrontation formenot tobe able to cook formy momtheway she cooked Zauner said.

felt like a fake, or I be there for her, like Koreanenough to make this kindof Zauner lookedupa recipe for jatjuk after hermotherdiedand found recipe. always felt this gratitudeand indebted toMaangchi. Itwas sucha therapeutic thing forme to finally make this dish that I felt like Iwould neverbe able Zauner said. this figure thatmade this thing is thismysterious thing hidden andpassedon fromyour family. rare tohave someoneopenwith their Zauner celebratedher 30thbirth- daywithKim.

ateher kimchi, and itwas so she said. During theseCOVID-19pandemic thoughtshave beenwithher readers and followers whomaybe struggling. deredhowshemighthelp; for her, that meansdevelopingmoredelicious and inexpensive recipeswith them inmind. of this is coming from love. I feel thepainwhen losing jobs and stayinghomebut theyhave to feed their like tomake foodwith EMILY KIM shares recipes via her popular YouTube channel, Cooking Korean FoodWithMaangchi.

Maangchi MAANGCHI PROVIDES THE JOY OF COOKING ONHERYOUTUBE CHANNEL, TEACH YOUHOWTOMAKEKIMCHI ANDOTHERKOREAN DISHESWITH LOVE. BY BRIAN PARK Tongbaechu Kimchi 3hours.Makes about11cups. Thiswholenapa cabbagekimchi can be cut into smaller piecesbefore you serve it and can last awhile if kept at a cool temperature.Thekimchiwill start crisp, but thedepthof its flavor will changeas it ferments. Pro tip: Well-fermentedkimchi alsomakes for thebest kimchi jjigae (stew)andkim- chi fried rice. 1 napa cabbage (3 pounds) 6 tablespoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons glutinous rice flour or all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 9 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon ginger mediumKorean pear or pear, peeled, cored and cut into chunks mediumyellowonion, cut into chunks cup fish sauce 1 tablespoon saeu-jeot (salted fermented shrimp) 1 cup gochugaru (Korean hot pepper flakes) or to taste 6 ouncesKorean radish or daikon, peeled and cut intomatchsticks 1 small carrot, cut intomatchsticks (about cup) 3 ouncesAsian chives or 6 scallions, chopped (about1cup) 3 scallions, thinly sliced at an angle Toasted sesame seeds, for serving 1Cuta 3-inch slit through the core of the cabbage.Usingbothhands, split the cabbage inhalf bypulling it apart at the slit.

Cut a 2-inch slit just through the core of eachhalf so that the leaves are loosenedbut still attached to the core and the cabbagehalf is intact. 2 Fill a largebowlwithwater anddunk the cabbage in thewater.Drain the water andput the cabbageback in the bowl. Sprinkle the salt between the on the thickwhite ribs thanon the thinner green leaves. Let standat roomtemperature for two hours, turning the cabbage every 30minutes todistribute the salt evenly. 3Meanwhile, combine the flour and1cupwater in a small saucepan andplace overmedium-highheat.

Stir until themixturebegins tobubble, two to threeminutes.Add the sugar and stir until themixture is slightly translucent andhas the consistency of a runnyporridge, two to threeminutes. Remove fromtheheat and let cool thoroughly. 4Drain the cabbage, place thebowl in thekitchen sink, and fill itwith cold water. Split the cabbagehalves inhalf again and rinseunder cold running water. Swish the cabbagearound in the water to removeanydirt between the leaves.Change thewater a few times and repeat until very clean.

Put the clean cabbage in a colander todrain well.Dry thebowl. 5 the garlic, ginger, pear and onion in a foodprocessor until smooth. Transfer to thebowl alongwith the cooled flourmixture, fish sauce, fer- mented shrimpandhotpepper flakes. Mixwellwith awooden spoon.Add the radish, carrot, chives and scallions and mixwell. 6 Cutawayasmuchof the cabbage cores as you can, taking care to leave eachquarter intact.

If the cabbage is still wet, squeeze gently to remove excesswater. Spread somegarlic paste fromthebowl over each leaf byhand (weardisposable gloves if you like), thenput thequarters in oneormore glass jars or airtight containers. Press downon thekimchi so packed andnoair canget inside, thenput the lid on the container. 7 Youcan serve thekimchi right away, sprinkledwith toasted sesameseeds. serve fermentedkimchiwith you can let thekim- chi ferment.

It takes about twoweeks to ferment in the refrigerator; for faster fermenting, leave it at roomtempera- ture for one to twodays, dependingon thewarmthof your kitchen, until the kimchi smells and tastes sour.Before serving, put thekimchi ona cutting board, cut intobite-size pieces, and transfer to aplate or a small, shallow bowl. Make aheadThe kimchi can be stored in the refrigerator and used as needed until the kimchi runs out. The kimchiwill continue to ferment in the refrigerator and becomemore sour. You can enjoy it at every stage.Whenever you remove kimchi from the jar, be sure to press downon the remaining kimchiwith a spoon to prevent it frombeing exposed to air. need a kimchi crock or a 64-ouncewide-mouthMason jar.

Excerpted from BigBook of KoreanCooking: FromEverydayMeals to Maangchi Mikki Paek For The Times.