The Miami Herald from Miami, Florida • 446

12 DINING TAKEOUT REVIEW REVIEW WWW herald com THE HERALD I THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 25 2003 I A toast to Togo-wich Call it a fusion of franchises I found Togo's Great Sandwiches in in a shop with Donuts and Baskin Robbins The trick is leaving without loading up at all three I ordered (pronounced toe-goes) toasted sandwiches recently added to their substyle choices The chicken bruschetta teams marinated tomatoes basil pesto spread roast chicken lettuce and onions a light toasting melts the provolone A cup of wild rice-chicken soup was bland the chicken Caesar OK but the sandwich was a treat along with the doughnuts -ROCHELLE KOFF Place: Address: 4426 Weston Rd Davie also In Margate Miami (Doral) Contact: 954-659-0930 I togoscom Prices: $349-5748 WALTER MICHOTHERALD STAFF SAMPLER: Chef Angelo Elia with ravioli with mushrooms and shrimp and crusted sea bass Bless you Angelo for we have dined Taco sets standard BY ROCHELLE KOFF rkoffi herald com likely many are cruising past Taco Shop on 17th Street Causeway dismissing it as another fast-food joint But this chain beloved in California and Las Vegas is as close as come to cheap soul-satisfying Mexican eats in South Florida Insiders say Roberto Robledo set the standard for authentic inexpensive Mexican food when he opened his First shop in San Diego in 1964 wanted to show Americans what real Mexican food tasted says Victor Azamar one of three brothers who own the South Florida franchises They take local tastes into consideration If you like your salsa truly spicy ask for the the ultra hot sauce kept in the back Sweet hor-chata is made with rice milk and a pinch of cinnamon the frijoles refritos just a mass of mush And in some locations (though not Fort Lauderdale) the menu includes menudo stomach lining) and arbacoa (beef cheek) Here popular choices are the came asada carnitas and chorizo all cooked on site The carne asada chimichanga is as big as a fist full of juicy shredded beef packed tight with beans and cheese fried till crisp but not greasy served with guacamole salsa and shredded lettuce Savor the grilled carnitas tortas or pork sandwiches among the long list of quesadillas burritos enchiladas even breakfast burritos Popular combos include samplers like the Three Amigos and Fiesta Plate Top off your meal with a cerv-eza fria like Negra Modelo or Corona and a homey bite of tres leches comforting in any language Place Taco Shop Address: 700 SE 17th St Causeway Fort Lauderdale also Kendall Hialeah Cutler Ridge and Delray Beach Rating- Very Good Contact 954-467-9788 Hours- 24 hours dally Prices a la carte Items combination plates Finally we zero in on the pork loin with prosciutto a little gamier than used to Perhaps the snapper was a better choice As dinner comes to a close we notice the sly Sandro making certain each dessert coming out of the kitchen passes our table conspicuously I was counting on a little after-dinner limoncello but happily overruled in favor of tiramisu and Delizia a surprisingly light chocolate cake concoction gooey in the center ice cream on top Sandro doesn't let us know done by plopping a check on the table but rather waits for our signal And while our foursome pumps up the bill Casa is surprisingly reasonable If you want a $450 Super Tuscan your bottle's on the wine list But there are plenty of fine $30 selections making dinner for two possible in the $100 range Place: Casa D'Angelo Address: 1201 Federal Hwy Fort Lauderdale Rating- Exceptional Contact 954-564-1234 casa-d-angelocom Hours: dinner from 5:30 pm dally Prices: starters S6-S12 entrees S12-S30 desserts S6-S8 FYI: reservations strongly suggested extensive wine list jacket of course Italian so I get the wine list Extensive is a bit of an understatement to describe this hefty book but I prepared earlier at the website have the Gavi Guistiniana light and perfect for this time of year with our first course followed by the daring La Braccesca from Tuscany We start with the mussels a special plus crisp and delightfully prepared gamberoni jumbo shrimp and melanzane ripiene al prosciutto mozzarella di bufala baby Italian eggplant with ham and cheese Wife Michele tries carpaccio di manzo con parmigiano tartufo shaved transparently thin and melt-in-your-mouth good though we have minded a more generous dollop of the tartufo truffle oil The carpaccio is our favorite for its lightness especially considering yet to come: Florentine-style steak beautifully charred and perfectly done a tender veal chop the size of Johnny Bench's fist and a wild mushroom pasta special Looking critically for a disappointment we turn to the pasta Ahal Elia's mother we learn is away until October She has something of a cult following in these parts Still the pasta Is delicious homemade daily I BY CHARLES BUHMAN cbuhman aherald com With the Vatican exhibit in town the whole Roman Holiday thing seems like a natural Nourishment for soul and body: the cultural treasures of Italy followed by dinner at one of South most treasured Italian ristorantes greeted graciously as though old friends who have been away too long Although we have reservations looking at a 15- to 20-minute wait to be seated so we jostle and get jostled by the front door until ducking outside There we smirk at the hapless souls dining fresco on this muggy evening those who make reservations mingling with the die-hard smokers Tonight we have ringside seats near the open kitchen Chef-owner Angelo Elia is in the house and army is a fine-tuned machine Not so my little group you prefer the pork loin or the we venture as if the comparison makes any sense Maitre Sandro who apparently drew the short straw when we walked in the door is unfazed He guides us patiently answering our questions and reciting the specials1 1 I'm wearing a new sports FYI Reviewers dine anonymously at Herald expense and rate restaurants Satisfactory Good Very Good or Exceptional based primarily on food but also on service and ambience Unless otherwise noted restau-! rants accept major I credit cards and are handicapped-accessible For summaries of recent reviews see Friday's Weekend section for full versions goto heraldcom and dick I i i i.