The Sacramento Bee from Sacramento, California • 279

18 Sunday TICKET The Sacramento Bee Sunday May 29 2005 FOR MORE REVIEWS sacticketcomdining DINING I i I i Lunchtime guests at Slocum House concentrate on their meals as some of the neighborhood chickens await the inevitable handout Sacramento Bee Erhardt Krause Right from the beginning Slocum House pridefully maintains a history of superior food and service By Mike Dunne BEE RESTAURANT CRITIC Dusk was settling over Fair Oaks and the resident chickens were providing a raucous definition of pecking order as they vied for evening roosts All except for the loner at our feet a plump golden and blessedly quiet bantam rooster strutting gingerly around our table in the lush garden on the slope behind Slocum House He cocked his head and eyed us cautiously but his bright look also said mind another crumb or two of that garlic Beat it bird Dinner at Slocum House is expensive and if you think going to continue sharing this oh well a cute and friendly chap so here you go I drew the line however at the beef stroga-noff the crab croquettes and the butternut squash soup and by the time the entrees arrived joined the rest of the flock in the trees about the grounds This was the first warm and dry evening of spring The walks were swept the hedges were trimmed and the ancient centerpiece maple was leafing out once again It was a glorious evening and people who have come to recognize Slocum House for its carefully tended garden had filled the patio and were showing no sign they were in a hurry to leave as they finished their meals Slocum House will celebrate its 20th anniversary this year Strong from the start it has continued to upgrade virtually every aspect of its operation and has weathered changes in key personnel without faltering Which it is doing right now At the first of the year Jim LaPerriere who had been the executive chef for nearly half its life resigned Steve Hoffman whose culinary training has been solely on the job including seven years as sous chef beside LaPerriere took over immediately- Under LaPerriere the Slocum House cuisine shifted from its French-California origins to a globally influenced interpretation of New American cookery distinguished by a vibrant streak of Southwestern sunshine and heat For his own culinary inspiration Hoffman Slocum House 7992 California Ave Far Oaks (916)961-7211 FOOD: Slocum House's new executive chef Steve Hoffman has slipped into the role of his predecessor and mentor Jim LaPernere with passion and grace Hoffman is turning out a bold globally inspired interpretation of New Amencan cooking that is carefully conceived and steadily executed AMBIENCE: Slocum House occupies an affecbonally maintained historic home Understated appointments set a classy mood without threatening to upstage the food HITS: Neither server nor cook blinked when an entree had to be totally restyled to accommodate a person with an allergy to some of its ingredients The wine list is just one page but the largely California cellar is broad and vaned with the central inventory of exerting for its adventurous choices MISSES: The lack of valet parking is the only service shortcoming you are likely to find at Slocum House HOURS: Lunch 1 1 30 a -2 Tuesday through Fnday dinner 5 30-1 0 Tuesday through Saturday 5-1 0 Sundays brunch 1030 a m-1 30 pm Sundays.