The Charlotte Observer from Charlotte, North Carolina • 96

I i Out for Lunch i robin hall domeier DINING HAVE AN UPDATE? CALL MOLLY BETTIGA AT (704)358-5253 Dining Guide Nostalgic for old cafes? one that fills the bill THE FOLLOWING are among the best in their categories chosen by Observer restaurant writer Helen Schwab Please remember Reviews are snapshots and chefs dishes decor and behavior may change without notice though we routinely check menu information prices etc If a restaurant you seek is not included it may not have been reviewed or revisited recently Listings run as space allows some restaurants and categories may not run every week QUESTIONS about the list? Call Helen Schwab at (704) 358-5250 anytime fax (704) 358-5037 e-mail to hschwabcharlotteobservercom or write to Restaurants Helen Schwab The Charlotte Observer PO Box 30308 Charlotte NC 28230-0308 To update a listing call Molly Bettiga at (704) 358-5253 or e-mail mbettigachariotteob-servercom THE CODE: means reservations are not taken All restaurants have no-smoking sections unless indicated by and all are handicapped-accessible unless indicated by "No CC" means the restaurant accept credit cards Street addresses are in Charlotte unless otherwise noted ENTERTAINMENT THINGS TO DO I JUNE 8 2001 Cafe at 6100 6100 Fairview Road inside the 6100 office building (704)553-2005 Entree prices: Hours: 6:30 am-4 pm weekdays Lunch begins at 11 am Closed on the weekends Credit cards: None Cash only Notes: Seats about 72 Vegetarian items and carryout available Restrooms located across the hallway -V Dinner Tuesday-Saturday fixed price is $89 per person plus bar bill tax and tip required Smoking discouraged (cigarettes permitted in the parlor) Not HA but staff will assist Seats about six parties per evening private functions for up to 34 can be arranged MEETING HOUSE 801 Providence Road (704)334-6338 An aptly named place whose well-turned-out clientele tucks into a contemporary menu that changes weekly Rock shrimp and blue crab johnnycakes with smoked com chowder and fat pork chops with collards have proven popular while items like duck confit spring rolls and steak tartare with grit crisps have appeared among the changing list Servers work with authority and presence The wine bar outfitted with couch and chairs is a comfy spot to socialize as well Dinner Tuesday-Sunday entrees about $17 to $28 Seats about 95 OF CHICAGO 227 Trade St (704)333-2602 Big bigger biggest retains its reign with the biggest portions and prices in town You get this anywhere else except the other 40-plus across the nation Gorgeous prime steaks (double filet is 14 ounces porterhouse 24) lobster assorted chops and seafood are presented a la carte on a cart sides include melon-size baked pol tatoes asparagus and spinach Order your dessert souffle before dinner and get that platinum card ready Dinner nightly entrees about Seats about 180 NOBLES RESTAURANT 3 Morrocroft Center at 6801 Morrison Blvd (704) 367-9463 The fourth in chef -owner Jim string this uses top-notch ingredients in interesting combinations When good very very good like an Angus filet pan-seared in a little duck fat or the tuna tartar timbale Stonework and topiaries create an elegantly rustic feel Dinner Monday-Saturday entrees about Seats about 212 All N-S except the bar PALM 6705 Phillips Place Court (704) 552-7256 Known for caricatures of the famous and the locally so on its walls it also sports the most varied lineup (in food and price) of our upscale steak restaurants -everything from pasta to seafood to veal Parmesan There's an Italian bent to some dishes but steakhouse classics are abundant Lunch weekdays entrees about Dinner nightly entrees about Seats about 250 THE PINE ROOM AT NIGHT 121 Trade SL (704)347-8947 The menu lineup after 5 may surprise you if had inexpensive breakfast or lunch here: At night the white linen comes out and onto it go dishes like beef tenderloin medallions sauced with a blend of cream mushrooms and Stoli or thick lamb chops with jalapeno mint jelly Fine service and a nice way with wine help this tiny place shine Breakfast and lunch weekdays entrees about Dinner Monday-Saturday entrees about Seats 48 SONOMA 129 Trade St (704) 377-1333 In a handsome setting that's at once contemporary and comfortable owner Pierre Bader and chef Tim Groody pre- SEE DINING I NEXT PAGE Cafe at 6100 will reconnect you with comfort-food faves Remember when most eat-out 1 establishments were called They were nothing fancy just a place to go for a meal At most places find a lunch counter and a waitress who knew the customers by name But cafes have yielded to The lunch counters become bars thousands are spent on decor and the waitresses are servers who probably know your name If you miss that cafe atmosphere try Cafe at 6100 find comfort food Fried chicken pork chops burgers hot dogs and spaghetti make appearances Most found a way to please A warmth floods the dining room The light-colored paneling and floor-to-ceiling windows are charming And I heard the efficient staff call more than a few customers by name The place was packed every time we went The suit-and-tie brigade from SouthPark-area offices were the main occupants If you work in that area you might miss 6100 altogether tucked away on the back side of an office building What a pity it would be to miss famous pork named after owner Gus Kos-kinas Are the chops which threaten to spill off the plate famous for their size? For their succulence? For the blanket of herbs and spices that cover them? Yes yes and yes Though the made-from-scratch vegetables dubbed not too shabby Zucchini stewed with onions and potatoes in a sheer tomato sauce is a fine reminder of vegetable stew minus the meat Sweet peas have the quality of pearls: simple elegant and tasteful or tasty in this case Mustard-based potato salad is semi-chunky and spiked with plenty of tangy pickle But medallions of sweet potatoes were undercooked and a cole slaw tasted like the kitchen (704)365-5000 A favorite of travelers and biz folk this always as quiet as a library but it reveres classics the same way: Food atmosphere and service are all traditional and well-executed The menu's formal French base escargot Chateaubriand creme brulee adds other influences (Dover sole rack of lamb an offbeat dish or two) Lunch Tuesday-Friday entrees about Dinner Monday-Saturday Seats about 150 Dancing can be arranged on patio weather permitting SEAFOOD GRILLE 225 Sixth St (704) 370-6776 This sprightly seafood place boasts a three-coast oyster sampler interestingly prepared fish dishes and an abundance of fishy details from steel sculptures to mosaics to decorative tanks also the more usual lobster (though this is carefully shelled and pleasingly arranged for easy eating) and several choices (notably steaks) for the seafood shunner Dinner Monday-Saturday entrees about Seats about 185 MARAIS 1400 Morehead St at Kings Drive (704) 334-8860 Classical French with classically good results You can be formal here but not required Food runs from haute to not: sushi-grade tuna with shallot jus ho-mard a (lobster) rack of lamb with blackberry sauce grilled salmon with tomato coulis The small space features rich woods old French advertisements and lacy curtains Dinner Monday-Saturday entrees about Reservations recommended Seats 55 1812 South Blvd (704) 342-1088 In a renovated brick building in South End is this sleekly appointed locally owned big steak restaurant: prime beef aged in-house lots of chops seafood (a fine simple tuna for one) and noteworthy portions Service is fine hitting a graceful medium between down-home comfortable and elegant Dinner Monday-Saturday entrees about Seats 97 McNINCH HOUSE 511 Church St (704) 332-6159 Ellen Davis owner-chef of this restored Victorian house in historic Fourth Ward does lush six-course dinners by reservation only You call a few days in advance get a handful of options on entrees and choose among them The kitchen sets the rest of the courses (mention allergies or hatreds) and wine stewardmanager Greg Hardee helps you with anything else you need A unique dinner in SPLURGERS Want to impress someone and no object (or less so than it usually is)? Start with these 7822 Fairview Road (704)364-5755 A tiny place with big style Chef-owner Bruce Moffett leans toward clean arrangements of a few fine ingredients -beets and orange for instance or grilled strip steak with toasted sourdough and truffled mashed and presents them handsomely in a prettily and simply appointed dining room Dinner Monday-Saturday entrees about Seats about 40 BONTERRA 1829 Cleveland Ave (704) 333-9463 A fine range of wines by the glass with other facets equally noteworthy from unusual vegetables to the unusually detailed renovation of this former church shopgreenhouseinto an elegant dining room American regional cooking shows Asian French and Italian influences in a menu that changes seasonally Dinner Monday-Saturday entrees about Seats about 160 CAMPANIA 6414 Rea Road (704) 541-8505 Named for the region of Italy that chef-owner Ciro family once called home this is all golden walls rich wood and candlelight with a seasonal menu that ranges from lamb osso buco to red snapper poached in (a little wine with tomato and garlic) Dinner Monday-Saturday entrees about Seats about 75 ETIENNE TOWNHOUSE 1011 Providence Road (704) 335-1546 Fresh contemporary cooking based on simple techniques gorgeous ingredients and an artist's eye that of chef -owner Etienne Jaulin a native of Paris cooked with Michel Richard and Jean-Louis Palladia Look for strong clear flavors and architectural presentations or relinquish control and go for the five-course chefs choice Dinner Monday-Saturday entrees about Seats about 114 200 East Bland St (704) 375-6700 Dramatic in both presentation and decoration this serves contemporary interpretations of Tuscan dishes Italian classics and dishes in between Oak-wood-grilled meats and seafood share space with pastas and entrees such as pan-seared sea bass seasoned with chiles Save room for house-made handsome desserts by the enormous fireplace Dinner Monday-Saturday entrees Seats about 114 LA BIBUOTHEQUE 1901 Roxborough Road decided whether it should be sweet or not The onion rings on the list of vegetables but belong in this category more than any other I loved the light breading on the thick sweet onion rings but I could eat only a few because they were so greasy Sandwiches salads entrees (meat plus two veggies) seafood and Italian dishes complete the menu Among the selections: Petite shrimp covered with a well-seasoned breading and fried crisp Spaghetti with meat sauce and meatballs I thought it might be meat-overkill but there much meat in the basil-and-oregano laced sauce The meatballs were the size of Ping-Pong balls Tender barbecue filling a seeded bun the size of a saucer Just enough sauce moistens the pork Buffalo wings with their share of salt The wings are dry to the touch and taste like fried chicken (minus the crust) with a touch of heat Desserts include strawberry pecan and chocolate silk pies and apple cherry and peach cobblers The strawberry pie boasted huge fruit but the berries sweet and the heavy glaze help The peach cobbler gets high marks for its plump peaches mixed with pieces of buttery crust Cafe at 6100 is a throwback to cafes of old Who says nothing good about the past? Robin Hall Domeier: pdomeiercharlotteinfinet 1.