Redlands Daily Facts from Redlands, California on March 3, 1964 · Page 22
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Redlands Daily Facts from Redlands, California · Page 22

Redlands, California
Issue Date:
Tuesday, March 3, 1964
Page 22
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10 — Tuesday, March 3. 1964 REDLANDS DAILY FACTS Chanel. At 80, Sfill Fashion Power By ALINE MOSBY PARIS (UPI) — It was half a century ago thai a pretty French girl began creating revolutionary designs for women's clothes — designs destined to influence the whole feminine fashion world and make the designer one of the world's most copied. The designer made the sweater an item of high style; she created the cardigan suit jacket which has become an international classic; she_started the fad for costume je'weh-y. Gabrielle Chanel is her name. And today, at 80, La Chanel remains a power in fashion. The experts — buyers and press — generally praised her spring 1964 collection with its new variations of her classics. Mile. Chanel was born in southern France. Her mother died when she was si.\ and her father abandoned her. In 1910, Gabrielle went to Paris to design clothes. An ardent horsewoman, she promptly copied for women the pullover sweaters worn by her male riding friends. Later, she added cashmere skirts and dresses, introducing the concept of ••sportswear" about 1910. In 1913 Chanel was the first prominent woman to cut her liair .short and wear small cloche hats, starling another revolution in the female silhouette tliat resulted in short skirts. A friend recalls that the designer ••wore short hair and bangs, with a bow on top, to the opera and caused a sensation." Chanel never wore a corset and made supple clothes to follow tlie movement of the body — a revolution in the 20"s. In 1925, she was the first designer to invent a perfume. She called it simply "No. 5." At that time she also developed long- waistcd dresses and her famous loose cardigan jacket, copied after the Englishman's blazer— still the mainstay of her 1964 spring collection. She popularized costume jcw- clrj- when she began wearing old Byzantine jewelry. Slie was surrounded by celebrities and was a close friend then of composer Igor Stravinsky. .\rtist Pablo Picasso and writer-artist Jean Cocteau. She financed the Ballet Russe in Paris. But in 1939 Chanel closed her cold, mirrored salon, explaining she could not make clothes during the war. In 1954 she reopened with her same designs. She refused to bow to Dior's ••n c w look" of 1947, complaining it hid tlie body. '•Nobody understood her designs at first except the .Americans, and they saved the salon," a friend said. "She always has a soft feeling for Americans." In recent years she developed the Chanel accessories — quilted handbag with doubfc chain handle, flesh-colored shoes with black or gold tones, gold chain belt and chain necklaces —all widely copied. Chanel never has married. A Shade Different NEW YORK (UPI) — Window shades, without windows, make versatile and decorative room dividers, reports the Window Shade Manufactiu-ers Association. Housed behind special floor or ceiling valances, the shades may be installed pull down, bottom- up, or in a combination of both. For even more effective division, suggests the association, try different though harmonizing color schemes for each section of the room. , ... The story goes that the Duke of Gloucester proposed but tlie designer replied, "There can be many Duchesses of Gloucester. There can be only one Mademoiselle Chanel." The designer lives in the Hotel Rilz almost across the street from her salon. In an apartment studio in the salon, ber cook and maid prepare her meals. She still chooses fabrics for her collections. She drapes them on living models and begins 'c cut. She selects triT-iugs and buttons. Around tlie salon she is a veritable dictator, and sometimes banishes mannequins whose appearance she does not like. Most of her 1964 styles will be copied for the masses. Chanel is not disturbed by the copies. One of her friends said, "she's amused — and flattered that women who can't afford her hand-made clothes still love to wear the Chanel style." Color Rampant Color runs riot in the new leather bags. In smooth, grained and patent leathers you find pastel pink and yellow, scarlet, navy blue, acid green, raspberry and orange. You also find such understated neutrals as oatmeal, otter, taupe, alongside whites, bone and the natural leather colors. Leatlier textures in envelopes and vertical bags play a fresh and unique fashion role — matching or contrasting — with fabric surfaces on new spring suits, coats and dresses. Smooth and grained leathers in neutral, bone, oatmeal of sand point up texture interest in slubbed silk shantung dresses or tweed suits and bulky coats. Bnished and suede leathers in box bags interpret a textured look that is strongest in the sand and taupe range. White bags in grained and smooth leather will accent checked and black spring suits. Chic Dtfails Color, shape and fe.xture are only part of the new handbag story. New box bags show smart style detailing, such as s e 1 f- leather handles that may be flexible, or firm like luggage handles. Many of the larger ver- versions have luggage buttons on the bottom. The always popular grained leather tote bag in navy blue and tlic full range of tan shades will brighten new Spring cos- tmes, along with pouch-shaped glove-soft grained leather bags in new intriguing styles and pastel colors. Shoulder bags, smart women's companions on shopping trips, arc larger than ever this year and sport handy outside pockets. Fashion-right and eye appealing, light-colored bags are easily cleaned. Smooth and grained leathers wipe clean with a damp sudsy cloth, while brushed and suedcd leathers can be spot- NEW From KRAMER jewdry • ENJOY SPRING'S GALA MOMENTS WITH JEWELRY PARIS PREDICTS! KRAMER CREATES! THE MOST COLORFUL RDR SPRING! LOVE MATCH The perfect motch... your fovorile spring costume and KRAMER'S eoy love Match jewelry. Ombre lones of polished ond mol colored pearls. In tones of Beige, Hot Pink, Orange, Turquoise, Green, Lilac & White. Necklace, Qracelet, Earrings. As Low As $1.00 DEDLANDS DEXALL DRUGS "X COSMETICS DEPARTMENT No. 1 East State St. Phone 792-7174 DOWNTOWN REDLANDS ELOQUENT EAST-Thofs evident in this pouch handbag that ptays up the soft look. The bag is in a crushed cowhide leather with hard wood trim. cleaned by gently rubbing them with a piece of fine sandpaper. Genuine patent leather maintains its bright finish with an occasional damp "dusting off to remove film or soil. UTTERLY VlVAClOUJi BOLD COLORS^ FESTIVE CREATi0^^5! THE MOST COLORFUL FROSTED BEADS FOR SPRING. IN TONES OF CITRUS MULTI. PASTEL MULTI. LILAC. PINK. AQUA & WHITE

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