San Antonio Express from San Antonio, Texas • Page 100

Page 2-E Son Antonie Sept, 27, 1970 FOR SPRING ashion Fi igures By MiLDRPD Fashion Editor LOS AXGELES Hundreds of thousands of words about hemlines and the current ancial state of the fashion industry have spilled into microphones and during this just-ended national press week of the California Fashion Creators Association. line" without sacrificing quality in spite of the fabric for length. And several couture fiiTOs have announced the addition of new lower-price divisions. woman is looking at that dollar today before she spends it," said a panelist. "We have to be realistic.

Statements of designers and manufacturers are varied, complicated and contradictory, but essentially the spring story sifts down to these basics: The elongated lo'ok is here. Most everybody is show'- ing slightly knee lengths, with the true midi (mid-calf and lower calf) found only in those couture lines aimed at the woman with flair and monev. As of now, fashion remains in a shakedown period and guidelines are far fiMm clear cut. If buying, perfectly safe with knees barely covered. But if you like the midi or longer, wear it.

Make sure that your new coat is longer than the dress. little to no controversy on the midi coat. Fall dress business was "soft" (that's a trade term for both at the manufacturing and retail levels. The national economy and apprehension over changing hemlines have been cited repeatedly as the reasons. ever, just back from showing resort and craise lines in New York are enthusiastic over business increases, and they expect spring to be even better.

A major style story- is shaping up in the coast junior market, but unfortunately there were no junior collections on the press schedule. The industry is buzzing about the maki-iength, print "ethnic" dresses being the hot item" for i 0 s. reminiscent of "granny" dresses with the 1970 versions taking their inspiration from ethnic groups the world over. One Los Angeles boutique even encourages customers to bring their own heirloom lace to be used as individual trim. Eight major fashion firms have closed in Califor- ma in the last two weeks and a larger number this season in New York.

Although bad business due to longer lengths is often blamed, so" said several members oif a designer- manufacturer panel at the closing session of press week. These ankle-length, like dresses are being worn by day as well as evening, so be surprised to see them on the streets of San Antonio. be in the stores quickly. EAST MEETS WEST jersey evening pants "Mismanagement was the reason in most of the cases out here," said the president of a major dress firm, explaining that every- time his business is off, he cuts down somewhere to make up for the loss. good businessman has to do that or go under." The panel discussion came at the close of capsule spring collections of eight members of the Los Angeles Fashion Guild, an organization made up of better ready-to-wear and couture firms.

in a harem mood team up with a shepherdess bolero of lovish embroidery for importont events. By Helen Rose. BIG GIRL and polka dots notwithstanding, late-doy dress lands an elegant look via long full skirt's deep, inverted pleat. In polka dot silk surah by Georgette Trilere for Trimar, Inc. EN GARDE outfit with asymmetrical gold buttons mokes its point in silk-lined worsted double knit, with self-tie belt and silk scarf atop the fencer's tunic.

By California suitmaker Ernst Strauss. All panel members insisted they are the price Included in the show and represented on the panel were; David Barr, Helen Bass, Georgia Bullock, Calderon for S.H. Hirsh, Helen Rose, Ernst Strauss, Travilla and Georgette Trilere for mar, Inc. All showed below-knee lengpis, with only a Travilla placing every hemHne at the bottom of the calf or longer. His talent for sculpturing a dress in soft, sensuous mood brought a round of applause for every garment.

A tiered white lace gown extending below calf is a knockout. Likewise a sexy black chiffon dress with handkerchief hemline. He knows how to make a dress long without making i aging. And Travilla knows how h) have fun with fashion. For the well-heeled discotheque set, he has a lime silk shirtwaist jumpsuit laced up the front and laced at the thigh above long, revealing slits.

He leaves all the lacings long, long, long to fly madly when a gal is dancing. Helen Collection is filled with the dreamy chiffon evening gowns and pant tumes which are her signatures. New looking are her below-the-knee "shepherdess" dresses in navy or black matte jersey with white organza collars and cuffs. These, too, feature laced-front bodices, lacing being a sign of spring 1971 in everything from sportswear to swimsuits to couture creations. length peasant dresses and rancher-inspired pant sets by Michael Calderon for S.H.

Hirsh, another designer who has fun with fashion. Georgia Bullock introduced her "country look" in sassy navy and white or red and white plain plaid shirtmakers with below- knee, full flounced skirts. ries of suits and pantsuits In double knits, flannel and cotton plaids. Pantsuits stalked the runway in most every press week collection. wood males this past week, both wearing knickers.

Rudy, Vallee was standing beside at the Universal City posCT The ethnic look checked into the 0 i in the ankle- Ernst Strauss is carrying the reputation for fine tailoring into spring in a se- Though the pants boom is attributed in part to the hemline hassle, are others who view it as a sign of the times, a life style. office and E.G. Marshall waCI in the elevator of the ton-Universal II0tel, week headquarters. Mr. shall was on his way to Uni-, versal Television across the street.

Speaking of a life style, I ran into two well-known Holly- "I walk to work morning," he smiled. JifT SYMPHONY FOOTNOTES BY MU in evening shoes.for the important events. From the blackpeau de the peaked vamp traced with silver kid, 28 M. Black peau de rim of smoked, rhinestones; also white with Aurora stones, 34,00. Black satin with a lower heel how with rhinestones, 32,00.

Black peau de soie with satin strap, rhinestone circle set in gold-tone metal, 29,00. Shoe Salon, third Downtown; FrosPs Fashion FROST BROS..