The Santa Fe New Mexican from Santa Fe, New Mexico • 135

RESTAURANT REVIEW Refining its focus Robert DeWalt I The New Mexican I Ills is the Hint' ol nut wilt swap mu h.illn tut' spatulas loi lluuoikpot hot dogs lot tlir i min. mi; waimili ol a slow cooked lo.isi I hr ok sh.ulis aiul su ms ol inter st'tiii lo (matin' new lilt into mu homes hi at Is ami even out loial luisiiiessis It an exciting time lot lu Is an i ippoi lutntv to tU he into the new seasons homitv when Ite time has passed lot litsli lieihs sweet tom anil a tomato woitli its wt ight in gold I iciinili visited Amavu. the lestauiant naked pist inside the Itihln ol the Ikittl Santa I e. to see how et itlive hcl Pali it le in pievioiislv emplovetlln the I kloi.nlo I Intel selves up his inlet lieasines mav is aheatlv will-tliessetl loi dining in vv inter ihe lahles ate st with modem i andle lixtmcs anti the lue-plate is 1 1 at khng vv uh pmon wt II In loie sunset I he onlv visual tlisiiat non is the institutional blue laipel patterned with eats ol i oin Perhaps it a leltnvei at tent limn the iestani.ini pt ev ioiis iiuamation as die I om Dame ale hut it titles lit i It- tnoie than add a hint ol I as cgas hnlfi't to the oveiall attnospheie (( unlfitsion cuisine At in on a teteni Suntlav. the limit ol lion -t stall was attentive atul le.ulv hn setvne Mv pattnei atul I chewed on stune ilensi hit ail and soli huttet atul sipped horn a bottle ol Itninaiui' tie la lent' Rouge lete-a lete Sv tali (C ahlotnia.

2000) while we made mu lood thtiues I lull me was ru h. diesel nosed and laden with deep li nil, hu I'toved piohlt matii vv it most ol the available menu i hones We sluietl two staiters. let ting, the wine bieathe a bn I he hied, hieatletl lalamaii with toasted ted litle and lemon i up pioved to be a delight I lie squill pietes vveie lender anti light, not greasv. atul the atoll, while not spin, was a tlelei table, dense handmade leiuhtion i at her than the bottled maunmaise vetsion most lestauiants sene I he lemon simp looked good on pa pet but lasted like lOiKentiated limeade I he seai ft I I lunge ness 1 1 ah takes with pineapple-vv aieu less salad and gieen ilnle temoulade laied min hetiei even element ol a gootl stailei shining thiough ami it pan til well with the wine Mv pattners sesame-it listed uTlovilm tuna si i veil with pu kled gmgei stakv wild me iinsahi uioli and ted-imiv Initlei s.iuu lasted less lomplex than its dt'suiption In two vvtiuls and t'v i ii oniplii ateil ovupopulation ol uunpeimg II, iv 1 1 1 leMutt's and ethmulies left this mnoicnt pivte ol tuna sinking a sea ol nlentitv irisis Mv plum glazed thuk hi east with molasses saute atul honev -laied Isiaelt toustous tasted as sweet as it sounds hut it was etiovahle Perhaps it wasin the best pan mg lot the wine, but an aw arc diner knows' hen to eat and when tiTimhihe based mi the institutional-lasting petan tone with whipped cream we shared, I was happv to otisuler the me mv onlv ilessei A meal for all seasonings On a second visit, im partnei and I opted ler glasses ol me I chose a glass ol Mmllaid nignier a crisp white with hints ol apple anil'ii intei spue Mv paiitici hose a glass ol l.uendon slui.iz. a tamei leiuhtion ol the ted vanelal that pair eel hettet with the mote Ionised lootl selections We staitul with an appctizet tl bacon wrapped slit imp vv uh mashed plantains and Inpotle cream sauce mianiniunced addition ol sage the sluiinp I'ltwed ovetpoweimg, and the sht imp.

while Ireslr were seveielv oictcooked I he plantain mash was well tc Muted atul slight lv sweet, perhaps In onlv pail ol the dish that dulti sillier 1 1 ni too m.inv competing llaiois Mv p.utnei hose a sealed Atlanta salmon till lenncl tagout, hlue-coi polenta cake, and spa tomato broth I lie dish was at lunged and presented beauiihilh. hut had some pioblcms in the Icxliuc-llaiot depaitment I lie polenta cake tasted good, hut a cake it was not Kami polenta" would have been a mote a mate desi upturn I lie spa tomato broth had the i iscositi and acidic, bland llaioi ol canned tomato paste I wo blight spots the salmon was rolled medallion-stile and looked to medium requested and (he lenncl i.igout had a rah, caiamehzed llaioi that went well with the caiiln polenta I chose a chaigiillcd New 'rot stnp steak, medium set veil with tiullled house fries and pasilla chile demiglaie 1 he steak was perleitlv cooked and tender, but the house hies were so oierpow cicd In the ti utile oil that the meats llaior and that ol the demiglaie was lost ltei out lust experience with dessert, we passed on it the second tune aiound continued on Page 88 IN SHORT Amaya is a restaurant that appears to be seeking its identity. A competent wine list is complemented by tender breaded calamari and well-prepared steaks, as well as by an arsenal of fusion-influenced sauces that enhance many of the ever-changing menu items. A little more focus on the foods identity paired with the already near-perfect service, could coax me back. Oei I) 200).