St. Louis Globe-Democrat from St. Louis, Missouri • 16

1 Spanish, English and 'Black Mammy' Influences Are Blended 1 One in Preparation of Soups, Meats; 'Sea, River and Lake Foods, Retaining Only the Best of Each I- ffw'Year Celebiiations Recall Memories' of Creole Cooking and Some of Many Recipes i New Year's Day Menu Suggested Big Cook Book Gies Recipes; Time and Number of Portions Everybody's Volume Has Sound Advice About Foods for All. Methods of Making Vinegar Influence Quality and Flavor Reliable Product Found to Have Bouquet All Its Own. RECIPES FOR DATE BARS, PUDDITG Story of Spaghetti Related by Widely Known Expert Chef Most. Pastes Used in but Two He Ex- plains. I i i rre.

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Spanish English and Black- Mammy' -Influences Are Blended 9 1 ii Meats Sea River and i 9 One in Preparation of Soups 1 L' Food, Retaining nly the Best, of -Each. ake I- 1 I Baked apples with jelly and cream. Grated potato pancakes. Buttered eggs. Crisp bacon.

Currant jolly. Cocoa. Cafe. AFTERNOON TEA. Chicken and almond sandwiches.

Orange marmalade Pa ndwic bee. Decorated cakes. Scottish fancies Turkish delight. Salted pecans. Russian tea.

chocolate menu if dinner is emitted and there are guests). Oysters and mushrooms a It king on Buttered asparagus tips. Jellied relish. Hot Chocolate fig ice cream. Sponge cake.

Fruit cake. Milk. Fruit punch. Coffee. NEW YEAR'S DINNER.

Clam cocktail. Celery. Olives. Consomme. Roast duck.

Hot orange sauce or apple sauce. Hominy and horseradish croquettes. Potatoes in cream. Buttered peas. Dinner rolls.

White grape and nut salad- Wafers. English plum padding. Foamy sauce. Toasted crackers. Cy earn cheese.

Milk. Coffee. --From the Delineator for i Baked apples with jelly and eam. cr Grated potato pancakes. Buttered eggs.

Crisp bacon. ffee Currant jolly. Chicken and almond sandwiches. Cocoa AFTERNOON TEA. Orange marmalade Pandwiches.

Decorated cakes. Scottish fancies Turkish delight. Salted pecans Russian tea. Reception chocolate SUPPER- eclat menu- if dinner is emit- ted and there are guests). Oysters and, mushrooms a la king on toast.

Buttered asparagus tips- Jellied relish. fig Ice creartHot Chocolate i. Suptolkn. Fruit ge cake. punch.

NNER NEW YEAR'S DI. Clam cocktail. il Consomme. Celery llvel Roast duck. Hot orange sauce or apple sauce.

Hominy and horseradish croquettes. potatoes incream Buttered peas. Three tried and true recipes to be added to kitchen files: Date Bars. 4 eggs. 2 cups brown sugar.

1 cup chopped nuts. 1 cup cut up dates. 1rcups Sour. teaspoon cloves. teaspoon salt.

1 teaspoon cinnamon. 2 teaspoons baking powder. Cream eggs and sugar together. then add nuts and dates. Sift cinnamon cloves, baking powder and flour together into the other -Ingredients.

Mix well and pour batter Into at pan lined with waxed Or parchmeni paper. Bake about fifteen minutes in a moderate oven330 degrees. When baked In and frost with, powdered sugar frosting. F. E.

Brattleton. Apple Puddiag. This baked pudding is inexpensive and easy to makeand Is better after two or three days than it is when fresh: 3 pounds sour apples. 1 cup water. 1 can condensed milk.

4 eggs. 1 lemon. 1 box zwieback. Quarter the apples. cook In the Three tried and rue recipes tebe astlided to files: 1 1- Date Bars.

4 eggs. 2 cups brown sugar 1 cup chopped nuts. 1 cup cut up dates. --c teaspoon cloves. "a flour.

teaspoon salt. 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 2 teaspoons baking powder. Cream eggs and 'sugar together. then add nuts end dates.

Sift emu- nantoil. cloves baking powder and our together into the other ngre fli- into flat pan lined with waxed or clients. Mix well and pour batter parchmeni paper. Bake about M. teen minutes in a Moderate oven 350 degrees.

When baked cut in A Typical Creole Dinner Oyster' on the Half Shell. Crab Gumbo. EEors d'Oeuvre (celery, radishes, sardines, sliced cuennibers, etc.) Broiled Spanish Mackerel with Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. Potatoes a la Duchesse Daube. Boiled Rice and Tomato Sauce.

Green Peas. Salado, a la Creole. (Sweet tJ itremets if desired; sweet omelets, fritters or cooked fruit.) Pending a la Reine with Cream Sauce. 'Cheese. I Nuts and r- Nina and ittaisma, A Typical Creole' Di inner 1 Oysters on the rlidf Shell.

Crab Gumbo. d'Oeuvre (lery, radishe, sar cesdines, sliced cucumbers, etc.) Broiled Spanish Mackerel with Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. am I ab 1 1-16o, illaimildroat Iliceisb ta rati rrebrimmLfAnb Cab.vseNex 'A Demi-tasse of Cate Noir. on the table, such as pastilles, massepains. pralines, macron.

Creole candles By MRS. CHRISTINE' FREDERICK, recently interviewed the and chef of a. restaurant widely inu hu is: apt i catouargeha: tut: Its the pastes of. any-c shape or size are used in but 'two' main ways, either in soup, or as the- 'dish -in a meal. ror we use-the tubes cut in small or large sections.

the thin stroright bands. what you call noodles. ard also the twisted bunchee you know "the vermicelli. only have thls In every size. much smaller than the vermicelli you and m4tich.

much larger. Then there are the little the -melon many, many for soup. the real the the spaghetti. it is rooked all th-4 the only thing di-fferent iP the It is the- here he pad -for. a dramatic as If he smelled the arorria'of those his 'conjured up'it le the-.

sauce which makes he, And you tell your these you write for, that there are. only four real only. vary, There is, first. the saiice what we call Cal-usso sauce. neade of minced chicken liver, rich rich brown.

igravy. 'Second. there in What. we call the mushroom sauce. also' delicions: and flavorful.

Third, you may prefer.a meat sauce of the beef the little of any rriat you have, sen 'Last. -but bet of all, is the- sauce. that is a sauce. say? Hot, with the tang. Very good; it has the tomato.

Use spagnolini (our rod pepper), the rsgano or dry the everything -to make the sauce delicious; It is much better than What You, call your tomato sauce with only Here I will show you." and with 'that this most obliging reetauranteur went to his kitchen. returning to my table with little dishes of sauce, samples of peppers and the cheese without which any spaghetti is like H'imlet With Hamlet left This typical cheese is" the variety known as Parmesan. Pale yellow and hard. and to be at its best it should be freshly grated. and alwaye served While any other cheese- may- be: used in developing these 'dishes.

no more gastronomical crime is possible from' the Italian viewpoint than to cook cheese in the sauce! point' or "tip" from my restaurateur friend is the proper cooking time necessary for the tubes to betender shapely. There are three. methods: the "short." where exactly ten minutes In water is sil that is this is the -time preferred by' the spaghetti epicure since it permits to become tender' but 'never mushy. The "medium 'boiling fifteen minutes. the "long" -and least desirable twenty minutes.

It will he' seen by this that perhaps -Most of us cook these pastes and. flour tubes far toe long! any of them must always be, dropped into rapidly boiling salted water and cooked uncovered and uustirrett-Whenrsone, they should be but not-treated to Alio bad practiCe of- holding. under water. which resultsTin wasting valuable nutriment--Prom the Designer Magazine foe January. e.

reera-wranr widely arid chef R.I w.rdetannyno renowned Arid Its In hu 'two' main ways, either in soup, or the dih In a meal. For soup we use-the tubes cut in small a or large sections, the thin strieght bands. what. you call noodles. ar also the twisted bunches.

you know the vertnicelli. only we have th ht ri irrrt 1,1, wr saumucla warantrtm. Ifirw Orgasms. La. I- 3rzitz few parts of the counes try where cooking has reached the point of being at once an art.

11. SCi01343 and a delight as it has in Louisiana. The Voistead act may have aimed heavy blow at New Orleans restaurants. but even pro- bibition cannot annoy a country where you catch your fish In the Gulf of Mexico. your oysters In the bayous.

your birds In the swamps and your fruits and vegetables in your own backyard. If you live In New Orleans you may discuss food without anyone accusing -You of beInc -a gourmand. It is considered. and rightly. as one of the legitimate topics of conversation along with tolittes.

the weather and styles in womesVs hats. Residents of New Orleans have ehree races of epicures to pattern fromthe French. the Spanish and. in a lesser degree. the negroes.

From this combination of food lore and with the assistance of a semi- tropical climate. where everything grows wild at the slightest encour. ligament, there has evolved what is known as creole cookinga cuteine rich In herbs and seasoning and famous for Its baked meats ode of extracting flavor. The creole. are the descendants of French and Spanish ancestors.

and not of necrosis. Any mixed Southern blood may be erroneously -termed creole. and the Northern -impression that it means a stroke of the tar brush has cost many a Yankee his popularitY. AP The French S. Creole cooking is necessarily eheap.

because the early settlers of Louisiana lived on vast plantations, where transportation was costly and communication between neighbors difficult. Thus the negro cooks fell back upon their own ingenuity in sitilising to the best advantage the food they had. The housewife of today may adopt creole cooking cure in the knowledge that she is following in the footsteps of the aristocratic French emigres who brought to this country many of the delicacies of the French court. Baked fish, which now forms the chief Friday dish in many Louisiana households. originated in France at Yi 0 less an occasion than the-mar.

riage of Marie de Medici to the Dauphin. But net all Louisiana wass settled ty, aristocrats. The French peasant who came to the new colony by the thousands have left an indelible im' pression on the menus-of the present with their ragouts and court. bouillons. their vegetable soups and stews.

The famous fast day fish. ted beans and rice, which is found In many of the -'humbler homes throughout the parishes, has its eounterpart on the peasant tables of Brttany. So bouillebaisse. once sacred to Marseilles. is made with i-ed fish from the Gulf instead of from the Mediterranean.

and iourtbouillon, that delectable mix iure of everything in the world boiled gather. Is airpopular in Louisiana salt Is inIrance. i or mouvrittca esti Pt" ETRE 6.1 few et try where co4 the point of being Sel013430 and a del Louisiana. The have aimed hei Orleans restauran hibition cannot where you catch Gulf of Mexico. Yo bayous.

your bird find your fruits 4 your own backyas New Orleans you without anyone ac Inc a gourmand. and rightly. as ons topics of convers tolitics. the weat womens hats. Residents of Ne ehree races of op fromthe French, in a lesser degree.

this combination with the assistati tropical climate. grows wild at the ligament, there ha Itnown as creole 4 rich in herbs and mous for Its baked ode of extracting The creole. are 4 French and Spani not of necrosis. As blood may be or creole. and the No that it means a brush has cost mi popularitY The Trench Creole cooking cheap, because tho lived on where transportati communication be difficult.

Thus tho back upon their sitilising to the ist food they had. today may adopt 4 cure in the know following in the aristocratic Tren brought to this cot delicacies of the ed fish, which no Friday dish in households. origin TIO less an occasi, niece of Marie Dauphin. But net all Lou' tor aristocrats. Ti who came to the thousands have lei pression on the rn ent with their re bouillons.

their ve tows. The fame red beans and ric In many of thi throughout the eounterpart on the Britany. So 1)4 sacred to Mansell red fish from the from the Mediterr bouillon, that dele everything in the Esther. Is si'pop as it is inIrance. wr sitAllucla NVAIIII-BtrRN, Ill-w La.

Pr where cooking 3rzitz few parts of the eoun- try as reached .1 the point of being at once an art. science and a delight as It has In Louisiana. The Volsteed act May have aimed a heavy blow at New Orleans restaurants. but even pro- them remain a few minutes, until they turn a rich golden brown. Remove with a skimmer, drain and serve on toast, with paralsy and lemon for a garnish.

crabs, shrimps and shellfish of every description Offer an infinite diversity In the matter of cooking. and they have the advantage of being both cheap and nourishing. Crabs are roughly divided Into hard shell and soft shell. The former. are broiled much as Svc do lobsters, and soft shell crabs are fried in bread crumbs and eaten Shrimps boiled in brine and herbs and served cold.

with French dressing, form a delicious salad. French and Spanish dishes have been greatly improved because of the remarkable variety of fish found in the Mississippi River. the Gulf of Mexico and the outlying bayous. From the Gulf hail the sheepshead, the flounder. the mackerel.

the bluefish and the royal pompano. king of all fish. The pompano is often baked in envelopesanother intriguing recipe which the restaurants refuse to reveal. Red fish or red sr apper is the foundation- for tturtb.willon and bouille-a-baisse. Tbe EverPresent Rice.

No reference to creole is adequate without mention of rice. No meal Is complete without It. In fact, no meal is served without it. Rice takes the place of potatoes and bread. It accompanies meat, vegetables and fish.

it appears alone with hot sauce or gravies. It is the background for shrimp and crab and the foundation for courtbouillon. pot-au-fen and gumbo. Rice with red beans is a popular Friday dish throughout Louisiana, and jambalaya. that creole African dish with a name straight out of the Arabian Nights.

Is a Meal In itself. the past. Gone are the five or six little negroes hovering about old Mandy in the kitchen. You are lucky indeed if you have one pickaninny The porcelain range has replaced the great open brick oven; a kitchenette supplants the old kitchen that sometimes measured 40 feet square. with its extra room adjoining.

where the cakes were made. Meats are no longer roasted on the iron "rabbit" over the open tare; rice is no longer boiled in a pot that hung from the ceiling; a vacuum cleaner takes the place of the palmetto broom in the corner. But no one can take from Louisiana her title of serving the best food In the Union. Properly speaking, the deube comes under the bead cf an entree and a roast constitutes the main body of the meal. but we take pity on Northern housewives and reduce the meal to five courses.

Salad is always served with the meat, and at the end of this course cornea entremeta sweet omelets. fritters, baked fruit, etc. Formal' A formal creole dinner sometimes runs In ten courses. Oysters, pot-ages. hors d'oeuvres.

poisson (fish). which is always served with potatoes; releves. or side dishes added to a course when there are other dishes. and comprising Nets. boiled meats, with garnishes; brochettes of liver or kidneys; soft uhell crabs or pate de fole grass.

Entrees. sweetbreads. daubes, cutlets, etc. Legumes or vegetables. sweet entremets.

salads. or the roast and the desserts- In the simpler creole homes there are only one or two courses. and the meal is called ambigu. Soirees. or evening parties, were a frequent form of entertainment in the earlier days of Louisiana and etill persist.

although the eighteenth amendment has put a ban on anything stronger than eau sucru. or some of the strops. Anisette and fruit cake were often served, ices of earious kinds, petits fours. or little rakes: wafers and fruits ere passed by the negro servants In their colored garments. Later In the evening chccolate, consomme or black coffee were served to the guests.

water for about fifteen minutes tilt- 1 til soft. remove from stove and press through sieve. as for ordinary apple sauce. Add the condensed' milk. stir.

and then the eggs. One at a time. beating well after the addition of each one. Add the grated lemon rind and the juice. Put the zwieback through the.food chopper instead of grating it and line a buttered pudding dish with about.

half the crumbs. Ppur in the mixture. cover with thJ remainder of the crumbs and bake slowly. as for custard. for an hour at 325 degrees.

It is best when served ice cold. Mrs. G. New York City. 1 Shrimp and Rice.

Shrimp doesn't always have to appear in a cream sauce Or salad. Baked.with rice and it is sub-1 stantial enough for a main dish at dinner time. 1' cup milk. 1 "clove garlic. 1 bay leaf.

12 cup shrimp. 1 teaspoon salt. 34 teaspoon pepper. cup rice. Add the milk.

salt. pepper: diced It garlic and leaf to the shrimp In a baking dish. Brown the rice In a teaspso of hot fat in a frying I pan. Stit constantly to prevent scorching. About ten minutes' time is required to brown the rice.

Add the rice to The casserole and cover. Bake in a moderately hot oven about 370 degreesfor forty-five minutes. until all the milk is atisorbed. Some people like a little stewed tomato and onion stirred in. M.

R. M. San Francisco. Cal. simmering after it' has begun.

and, never add water after it has 'once begun tO boil. On two Commandments hang au the pot-au feu concommes and broths. Eater. the 'Simplot'. The Spanish occupation of Louisiana, which took pace in Ina, left behind it, besides Berne of the most attractive architectii.re in thcnSouth.

a wake of eauces, highly seasoned-, dishes, and the "arte do componer las viandas" which tinctures the dinners of Tomato sauce. which le served with meat, -fish', 1 game or ries and may be put away on ice for further use, bears a gestic) Of Spanish influence. Tomato One dozen tomatoes or a large can of onion. one clove of garlic, one tablespoon of butter. one tablespoon of flour, a sprig of minced thyme and bay leaf, one pint of hot water.

Add One pint of water to the tomatoes, add minced thyme. parsley. bay onion and minced garlic. Let all cook for about ten minutes until it is well boiled. Then mash the mixture through a sieve until it La a pulp.

In another sauce pan put a tablespoon of butter. and when' it is hot add a tablespoon of flour. making a roux. Pour into this the tomato juice that has been strained. allow to boil up once or twice, and when it has slightly thickened serve hot'.

The use of herbs, onion, garlic and tomatoes may of course be varied to euit the taste. 'Gone; with the eighteenth'amendment. are the days of the famous "baba au ilium." the- sacred delicacy of Xing Startislas of Poland, 1 which consisted of a sweet cake soaked in clone, tooat least. officiallyare the dainty glasses of that sweet. thick creole wine that once took the place of afternoon tea and after-dinner The -absinthe counters are no more, though the old Absinthe louse remains doing an Innocuous business in table d'hote dinners.

Strung and eggnogs have been dropped from the menus completely. and the modern' cookbook put out by "The New Orleans Times-Picayune" remarks mournfully in many recipes "grape- juice nay be used in place of I wine, though it can hardly be Called a satisfactory substitute. In the old days most or the sauces and many of the meats were flavored with wine. I I -t HP French, Into ew er I SpE Into 1. 2 k- 4 an 9 Into .1 By FLORENCE BROBECKA OW viould 'you 'go about writing a review of the Encyclopedia.

Britannica? That would be no more difficult than to review the newest book to come into the world; it is 'so big, so comprehensive. so complete. that It defies a brief analysis such as should constitute a review. We experienced a snsation as of -tioaring after glimpsing a few of the ,9400 recipes. Wings would have been a groat help at that moment, for we could have pinioned right up to the biggest mountain and sung out: "Here's the worlds best cook book!" Helpful Arrangement.

Perhaps it As also the biggest cook book. with Its tables of proportions, tables of equivalents and substitutions--thls last an inspiration. for if the recipe call. for baking powder and you have soda and cream or tartar in the house. bur.

no baking powder, you can still bake the cake by followint the rule under "Substitutions." Under the same head there are such facts as: One bouillon cube equals one teaspoon of beef extracts; the equivalent of cocoa for chocolate: of the various kinds of gelatine; of limey 'substituting for sugar; of tapioca for pearl tapioca; of shortenings other than' butter when butter is called A lengthy table of equivalents tells just how much salt is in a dash -and a speck; butter the site of a walnut meani one teaspoon; the difference between heaping and level measurements is given; the translations of gills Into pints and of drams into teaspoons are other helpful Here is a guide the housekeeper, whether she is making her first cake or her five hundred and first. The various tables, charts and guides in the Index are on blue paper. so that you see their location in the book at a glance and can turn to them in a hurry, without hunting frantically through hundreds of pages. The recipes are arranged on the pages (by herculean effort on the part of editor and Publishers) so that no -recipe le "continued on the next." If you have the book propped up on the kitchen table while the dinner is in progress. the page does not need to be turned to grid the rest of the salad recipe.

Complete stud Comprehensive. It is well-nigh impossible to give any comprehensive idea of the number and kind of every phaae of cookery is represented In the fullest detail. Plain recipes. their variations; elaborate recipes and their modifications. each one stating clearly -the essential tools, Ingredients and method.

And. not least, the number of servings port.sible the recipe. Blessings on her for that! But, then, the source and the editing of. the volume explain much of its unsual quality. Isabel Ely Lord was the director of the school of household science and arts at Pratt InAltute from 1910 to 1920.

Upon the valuable records of that school for those years, as well as' the pre' ceding the brjok is It represents six Years besides, Of painstaking work by Miss Lord. co-operating with the faculty and alumnae of the school. to make the book complete and up to date. Quite appropriately it is called "Lverybody's Cookbook," because, as the publishers are justified in announcing, "it will appeal to the housewife for its sound advice about-foods, the -sensible economy of its recipes; to teacherat for its accuracy and scientific Approach; to the hostess for itoP many unusual 'recipes; to the inexperienced for its careful. Instructions; to the professional cook for its.completeriess.

Followed. "The plan of the volume is new for cookbooks. Wherever possible, fundamental or basic recipes or methods are given at the beginning of a--chapter and are thereaf)er referred to by number. This afrangement not only makes it possible to present a very large-i number of recipea on a few pages, but also Instructs the inexperienced cook in methods as well as in recipes. "It contains Information about foodstuffs which can be found In no other cookbook.

At the beginning of each chapter there is given in condensed form- what. the. housekeeper needs Act know about select, leg. keeping and preparing' the food in question and its value in relation to the daily meal. The total time is given.

from the time the dish is started, to -the time when it is 0 The Bed By BROBECKA OW Would 'you go about writing a review of the Encyclopedia Britannica? That would be no more difficult than to review the newest cook book to coma into the world; it Is -so big, so comprehensive. so complete. that It defies a brief analysis such as should constitute a review. We xPerisnood a sense- tion as of -eoaring after glimpsing a few of the 3400 recipes. Wings would have been a great help at that Moment.

for Could have pinioned right ut) to the' biggest Jambs lays. By GERALD U. CARSON. Drop by drop--at most a teaspoonful or so at a timethat's the way you- generally use vinegar. The quantity le so small that you may never have thought very much about the bottle it comes in where it conies from, or how.

Yet vinegar has a 'very important function to perform. As an element in salad dressing or added to other things. tgood vinegar enlivens neutral vegetables, brings out their flavor and contributes its own opecial Vinegar is not just vinegar. It a For that reason it is an error to think that vinegar is a perfectly uniform article, and that there is one standard process which all vinegar makers use for producing it. If all vinegar were alike.

If it were just a sour taste. It might be thoroughly satisfactory just to go to your grocer and buy any bottle. or even the nameless vinegar that comes in bulk, without thinking about what you were getting. But really good vinegar has a die-, tinct and unmistakable bouquet of Rs own. Upon this fact depends its desirability and efficiency.

And it I. well to know that there are many ways of varying the materials, manufacture, and consequently the quality of vinegar. Vinegar should always be purchased in bottles and by brand nameprovided the brand name means something to you besides price. That is, the manufacturer's name should represent a definite standard in quality. The production of vinegar upon a large scale does not necesaarily mean it lowering of quality; -vinegar really matures better in large quantities than in smaller ones.

Cider First. The best apples for making cider vinegar are the spicy and aromatic Baldwin, Northern spies, kings and russets of Michigan and Western New York State. Convent-eat to these areas are lcicated plants containing screw. or hydraulic, presses, which press the apple cider. Cider vinegar can come only up to its best possibilities when the juice of the whole apple is used for making the vtnegar.

Cores and peelings. or the wet pumice left after the first pressing. still have a lot of juice left in them. This stuff can be run through the presses again, and the liquid which results is also called cider and is used to make vinegar, but these byproducts produce a very sour vinegar. This vinegar.

because it is so sharp, has water added toit, so it will be made more palatable. This Is called "reducing," and a federal law requires that this fact be indicated on the label of all the vinegar that has been diluted. So look to your labels and choose vinegars accordingly- Another important point- is that fermentation should take place naturally. This is one of nature'l 'nettle transmutations, end it can only be accomplished at nature's own pace All artificial-chemical means of beetening cider into becoming vinegar inevitably Injure the quality of the The fresh apple juice should be put into huge sealed storage tanks, because it has been found that the best results come when a large quantity of cider is allowed to change over-In the same vat or tank. This maturing takes from six to eighteen monthsaccording to the desire of the manufacturer to produce a fine.

smooth, flavorsome vinegar, and according to its financial strength, toobecause it means that a large plant, capital and materials are tied up for a long time. Aged la Weed. The vinegar should also be aged in wood. This does the same thing for vinegar that it does' for wine, utmost of brilliance, clarity, flavor and -aroma. These expensive precautions are by no means universal among vinegar makers.

None of the above rules are absolutely necessary. indeed. to produce vinegar. But this is the way that cider vinegar should' be made. and it is the way that the beat makers go about it.

The reason for the popularity of cider vinegar in this country is purely historical. The habits of our colonial ancestors were fixed by the conditions of their life. One important condition was a plentiful supply of apples. Every man who had an apple tree and a barrel could have plenty of -eider and vinegar, and to all the records and traditions which have come down from those blessed days) every farmer had an orchard, plenty of barrels and all the cider and vinegars which any family eould reasonably desire. All of which accounts for our habit of saying "vinegar" instead of "cider vinegar." Excellent malt vinegar.

however, is brewed from barley malt in this country now. and Cereal Vinegar Made from low-proof spirits obtained by a process of distillation fgorn corn. rye and barley malt (a- splendid pickling vinegar) has been introduced with great sue Try some of the less Usual vine-fan some time, just' for a change. Every grocer carries them in well-known which you can rely upon. And there Is striking test you can use to determine thechar acteristic flavors of the various vinegars, and one which you cart.readily apply' to distinguish really fine 'Vinegar.

from the ordinary Try This Put a few drove of the best vizi. egar -yen -knror-- on. a lursr Of sugar land taste it; You-, don't-need to eat the auger; just pull on 'the vinegar with your tongue. '-Then take a different lump of agirtir and do the same with a lOwer grade vinegar. The second, vielegar often seems the stronger at but gradually, as you become more accustomed to the taste.

you- wilt find that the- first combines full strength with mildness and delicacy, while the less carefully'pre-, pared and aged' vinegar has just a sour "bite" to it The mild aro Matie'brand is the one to lend quality and spiciness to salad dressings and saue By GERALD IL CARSON. Drop by dropat most a teaspoon- ful or so a timethat's the way you- generally use vinegar. The quantity Is so small that you may never have thought very much about the bottle It comes In. were it comes from, or how. Yet vinegar has a very Important function to perform.

As an element In salad dressing or added to other things. vinegar enlivens neutral 'vegetables. brings out their flavor and contributes its own epecial taste; Vinegar. is not just vinegar. It 1st Irsnr Mho- rut a Yew drops Of Me best yin.

egur jr-ou know -on. a itirsr i Of sugar and taste It Tow don to eat the sugar; Suet Pull on the vinegar With your tongue. Then take a different lump of 'tiger and do the seine with a lower grade vinegar. The second viltegar often seems the stronger at first, but ffraduallY as you become more accustomed to the taste you wilt find that the first combines full strength with mildness and cacy, while the leps carefully pre- pared and aged' vinegar has just a bite sour It The mild aro- maticbrand is the one to lend qual- ity and 'Wines to salad dressinga and Always a Soap-. Always A simple rule for making jambe-lay, one that may be followed in a short time, is: One big slice of smoked ham or of salt meat.

cone and one-half cups of rice. one onion. one garlic. chopped parsley, thyme, bay leaf if available. Cut the ham or at meat Into small pieces and fry In lard.

Add chopped onion and garlic and fry till onion is light brown. In another pot cook one and one-half CUPS of rice in about three times the same amount of water. When the rice begins to boll add the fried meat and herbs. Cover and let simmer for about twenty' minutes, or until rice is done. Jambalaya may also made with shrimps, crabs or covrpeaa.

The Brained Meats. One cannot leave the subject of creole cookery without, at least a tribute to their meats, for it is the creoles who have above all else the art of making tough meat tender. This is accomplished by braising, ail ingenious method between frying and baking. wherein the meat 13 placed in a covered saucepan, which prevents the escape of the flavor and retains the juices. This system was imported to the colonies from the court 1St' Louis so the descendants of these emigres claim.

and the young Gascon cook of the Rol de Soleil won a silver gridiron for his invention. Any part of the meat may be utilized. frorn the -bead to the tallso ttiey claim in Louisianaif you only know the trick. Thus you may have for.the choosing "sates." or rsgout, gHllades or the unique creole Maube, which may be served cold or hot, and is found. so far, as we know, nowhere else in the orId A FOOD THOUGHT FOR THE NEW YEAR Respect for Cooking Would Better Develop it in Am erica.

Persbnifying good food well cooked the Gwes-Dastoca AT food page endeavors to stimulate a respect for food and cooking and to develop a food consciousness. bo we listened with attentive ear to this indictment of the general public by the man who rules over the kitchen of-Alas Ambassador Hotel: "People do not care what they eatthey order anything ready swallow it and rusiroff. We get no no stimulus to make the menu -better. in France, now. It Is different.

A man dines and lingers over the coffee and liquor. He says to the chef: That sauce was good. but' And we get a discriminating criticism which suggests new possibilities. "Withoht an Interest and appreciation of food we have no incentive to create new combinations. Cookery le a creative art.

If it la unappreciated our own standards fall down. imperceptibly, perhaps, and unwittingly. but fall' they do. Row is it possible to keep to the highest standards when he, who dines does not know mediocre from good or We are responsible, thAn.i you and I and all who dine In public places. for the standard of food served.

A word of appreciation and honest criticism for the chef will encourage and stimulate him in his efforts. All this applies as truly to the home as'the hotel. to the housewife and cook as to the chef. Why not a New Year's resolution: "Order thoughtfully dine leisurely. criticise discriminatingly." Daube.

77 a clidaYt KBES ot COFFEE aif v-r, that lit, OP -lr gt-frl ye'. .,0 4 ir 4) N'N 7 br ,.....1110. uroce For the new that the clever r-Th woman is stantly in search Th, ,444, 1 SALAD AND SWEETS MADE A LA CREOLE Poudine a la Reme, Massopains and Pastilles Recipes. Salad. le Creole.

Four tomatoes, two green pep! pers, one large onion. French dress-I trig. Slice the tomatoes. Peppers and the onion In very thin slices. Arrange alternately on a plate and serve with French dressing.

Pendia a la Itelae. (Queen Pudding.) One pint of breadcrurnbs, one quart of milk, -cup of sugar, four eggs. tablespoon of butter, juice of one lemon, one-half pint of seeded currants. one-half pint of seeded raisins. Soak and squeeze the bread-crumbs.

Beat the sugar into the yolks of the eggs. Add milk and the breadcrumbs, beating an the time. Adds the melted butter. seed! ed and the currants. the juice of one lemon and the grated of half a lemon.

Beat all thoroughly and set in a moderate oven for about half an hour. Beat the whites of the eggs separately to a stiff froth and add four teaspoons of powdered sugar. Take the pudding out of the oven when it is a nice brown, spread over it a layer of fruit jelly and alternate layers of the Weaten white of egg. Set it back in the oven to brown for several minutes and serve either hot or cold, plain or with cream sauce. Maseepates.

Twelve ounces of sweet almonds, one ounce of bitter almonds whites of four eggs. one and one-half pounds of sifted sugar. Scald. -skin. wash and dry Pound them into a flour with the whites of four eggs.

Beat mix in the sugar by pounding it. If too soft, add sugar until it stiffens. Cut the paste into fancy shapeshearts, diamonds. triangles, etc. Set on a baking sheet on which pulverized aligar has been sifted and bake to light brown.

Pastilles. These are simple little candies which may .120 made of any flavor or color and are a great favorite among the Cream pastilles are made of one pound of fine white confectionery-sugar, one tablespoon of one teaspoon of lemon extract, one teaspoon of cream tartar and four tablespoons of wa, Let the sugar and water boil tit brittle when it Is dropped in cold water. Add the vinegar and cream of tartar as soon as it to boil. 'Add lemon extract as soon as you take it from the fire. -Turn quickly onto buttered plate, and when It begins to cool pull until It is white.

CUt Into smell square pieces. These are simple little candies which may be made of any flavor or color and are a great favorite among the Cream Pastilles are made of one Pound of fine white oonfectionery'sugar. one tablespoon of one teaspoon of lemon extract. one teaspoon of cream of tartar and four tablespoons of wa- ter. Let the sugar and water boil ui-i- til brittle when it Is dropped in cold water.

Add the vinegar and cream of tartar as soon as It to boil. 'Add lemon extract as soon as you take it from the fire. -Turn quickly onto a buttered plate, and when it begins to cool pull until It Is white. Cut into small square pieces. It is one of the paradoxes of the 'lace that in a climate where the temperature averages above 80 for more than six months of the year soup hos an unvarying place upon the menu.

A Creole housewife would as soon think of Setlring breakfast without coffee as dinner without soup. Brittany and Normandy may 'have contributed their recipes to the stews and thick vegetable soups, but gumbo he pure Louisiana. Gumbo is the negro word for mud. as the nearer this thick, savory and dalteious soup approaches mud in -appearance the better it le eiteemed. Gumbo Is made with a foundation of gumbo file.

the fine white powder of the sassafras which the Choctaw Indians used to bring to the plantations in the days of the French oc esupation. or with okra. which- is easy obtain even In Northern markets. Gumbo maybe made with etther fish. crabs.

shrimp. meat or oysters. and mixed with rice is out-Relent for a whole meal. The crab and okra gumbo is given here as being the simplest to make. Gumbo.

an of crab meat. about twenty olgra pods. three large tomatoes: one onion: leaf of bay leaf. thyme, clove, parsley and a red pepper pod; one tablespoon of lard, one tablespoon dour, one quart of boiling water. -Wash and chop okra.

into slices. Trt It in hot lard until the slimy stage of the vegetable is passed and It is slightly brown. Be very care- hal that it does not scorch, as okra I delicate. Then remove it from pan and to the hot lard add chopped onion, chopped gratilic and a table- spoon of flour. Stir this to make a roux.

Add three chopped tomatoes replace the okra. and one can of crab meat. and as you add the latter put in about a quart of boiling wa Put into pot the leaf of bay. thyme. clove, parsley and a red pepper pod done up in a littlitmuslin bag.

Season highly' with salt and pepper. stir well at intervals and allow to sintmer for about an -hour. Serve hot with boiled rice. form an 'integral part Creole cooking. and an "herb bouquet." consisting of a spray of pars, ley, thyme and bay leaf.

may be purchased at any market. Wblls herbs are not absolutely essential to the recipes given here, them, Is no doubt that they add a delicate tang and flavor give Creole cook-Ins much Of its t'trick'- that contributes to the effect of these unusual dishes is the making of rouv. simpler brown samosa. made by adding a tablespoon of flour to one' of lard allowing it brown and generally adding shopped onions and Onto. This roux Corms the foundation of Many of thr recipes- and la simple to make.

Creole soups have two Unbreakable ooloo--orPor allow Ow soup to stop It is one of the solace that in a temperature aven more than six in soup an unsti the menu. A Creel as soon think of without coffee al soup. Brittany al have tontributed I stews and thick vs gumbo ts pure 1. Gumbo is the no as the nearer this dalIcious soup ar -appearance the be Gumbo Is made of gumbo file. the of the sassafras Indians used to hi tions in the days oupattort.

or wit' easy to obtain i Markets. Gumbo either deb. crabs, oysters. and Relent for a whol and okra gumbo li Mg the simplest t4 k-Okra 4 San of crab ty okra pods. thy else onion; a leaf 4 clove.

parsley and one tablespoon spoon dour, one water. Wash and chop Try It In hot las stace of the vegel it is slightly bror ful that it does Is delicate. The! pan and to the be onion, chopped ir artoon of dour. 8 roux. Add three replaess, the okra, crab meat.

and as put in about a qu Put Into po' thyme. clove, pars per pod done up bat-- I Season highly' is per, stir well at li It to simmer fol Serve hot with' be Herbs fortis an integral Part of C4110141 cooking'. and an herb bon inlet" consistfng of st sPraIaf 'Par" ley, thyme and bay leaf. may' be purchased at any market. berbe are not absolutelY essential to the TaCiPaa riven berth there Is no doubt that they add a delicate tang and flavor which rise Creole cook- Ina' much Of that contributes to the ef- feet of these unusual -dishes is the making of rou ii.

a simple' brown sauce. made by adding a tablespoon of flour to one of lard allowing it So and generally adding ehopped onions and Orlici This roux Corms the foundation of Many of th recipes and is simple to make Creole soups have two unbreakable rit1011-41HOIP'er allow the, soup to stop Coffee Is Dripped. Prohibltion'and tropical climate may be responsible for the popularity of famous French drip coffee. BO strong that it stains the cups, so bracing that it fairly makee you reel. Coffee.

the "small is brought- to your 1door when you first arise in the morning. and you elp it with--eoul- bath. You have It again at breakfast. It is served as a little pick-me-up around 11 o'clock frequently at lunch. again at tea-time.

and no dinner is oomplete without its demitasse. I A good Creole never boils his It is always "dripped" In a pot with a contrivance made eepecially for the purpose, though much the lame effect may be gained Mr pouring the boiling water ever a muslin bag tilled with coffee in the coffee pot. You must never drip the same coffee twice. so the principle La undoubtedly expensive, but once accustomed to the strong. rich flavor of the dripped coffee.

it Is difficult to be reconciled to any Oysters Everywhere. 1 Oysters are among the moat feequent accompaniments to a cup of coffee, and oyster parlors. vaguely similar to the tearooms of our Northern cities, dot' the streets of New Orleans and the smaller towns. Her. you may order oyster loaves.

oyster sandwiches, broiled oysters. baked oysters, oysters en brochette or just a dozen plain oysters, which. served raw with a cup of coffee. make One of the delicious little meals Imaginable. The Southern species is so large that at first you feel rather a.

though yOu were eating a baby. but the Bayou cook and Barataria oysters, are famous all over the country. and Louisiana is the only place we know where you don't have to wait for-an It In the month. The more expensive restaurants will serve you oysters Rockefeller. a delectable compound.

where each bivalve is baked in spinach but no amount of coaxing will persuade tho.waiters to give the recipe. Among the most popular forms are fried oysters a la Creole which. may be pyppared at home, Fried Oysters Creole. Allow six largo oysters to each person. and enough butter for the Oysters to swim, The batter calls for one egg.

one glass of milk. ons-balf teaspoon of salt and one-half teaspoon of block pepper. Drain oysters in a colander end dry. with a soft towel-. Dip them Into a batter made of en egg thoroughly beaten Into a glass of milk with a half teaspoon each of salt and -pepper.

Then dip them In grated bread crumbs and drop them Into a deep frying pan with dent butter butter oil or lord (butter oil Is distinctly prferoble to any other fat), for these to -swim fa. lest forma are fried (Waters a la Creole. at ma. '7 -------1-7-. i Fitted Oysters Creole.

'1 Anew six large oysters' to each person, and enough butter for the oysters to swim, The Calla for one egg one glass of milk. Ons-balf teaspoon of salt and one" half, teaspoon cs black pepper. Drain oysters in a colander and dry, with a soft towel Dip them Into a batter made of an egg thor. oughly beaten into a glass of milk with half teaspoon each of salt and Then --'-ditt them in grated bread crumbs and drop them into a deep frying pan with elite- cient butter oil or lard (butter oil is distinctly' preferable to any other 'fat) for them to swine la. tat Pour pounds of veal one-quarter of a pound of salt fat meat.

five onioni. one clove of garlic, lard, salt, pepper. cayenne herbs to taste. Cut salt meat tnto thin mptrips. Roll them in chopped onion, garlic.

herbs and salt and pepper. Make incisions In the veal rump and insert spiced salt meat Rub veal thoroughly with salt and pepper. Then brown the veal in hot lard. turning first on one aide and then to the other until both sides are browned. Remove from pan and make a roux In Abe remaining lard With a tablespoon of flour.

a chopped onion and chopped tomatoes or one-half can of tomato paste. if desired. Put the daube back in the pot, cover with water and allow it to simmer for about four hours. Turn the heat high until the water begins to boll and then low. This may be served Immedlately, or may be put away in't cool place and served cold the next day by cutting into thin slices; It will then have formed a delicioui An description Of the Louisiana cuisine mould- include entremets and compotes.

quenelles and colas, vol-au-vents and brioches. sometime and the toothsome conglomeration of Gulf and swamp and old plantation kitchens. Melons with frozen wine pm-pared In specie. ovens: brIlloon potatoes that-horst' at the touch: frogs. legs that taste like chicken: alligator- pears with olive oil: pecans and massepains and macaroni, and madeleineswhat delicacies for the New Orleans little boy or girl! Gone Is touch of the romance of away in't cool place and served coil tba next day by cutting into thin ill-ces--it will the ri has-e formed a delicious jelly.

An description Of the Louisiana cufelne iwouid- include en- tremets and compotes, quenelles and "la! and brioches. "um's" and Pagabottell-t-ell the toothsome conglomeration of Gulf and swami) and old Plantation hitch- ens. Helens with frozen, wine pre- pared in specie. ovens: billloon pota- toes that -burst at the touch: frogs. loge that taste like chicken: alit- gator" pears with olive oil: pecans and massepains and macs- roes, and madeleineswbat delica- cies for the New Orleans little boy ot girl! 4 I Gone much sof the romance of I I I I I NEiAt ORLEANS DISHES ARE RECOMMENDED Raving gone to the New England and Olde England for our Christmas suggestions, it is fitting that old New (Means and the rich Creole Savor come to our banquet boards at Yearsor rather, if not on-New Year's Day itself then early Creole dishes go welt On a cold dayand the best (or the worst).

of the winter isrbefore us. And in this one-time 'Louisiana territory, with its heritage of French and of far removedthe rich seasoningsInay find a. welcome. SO from New Orleans conies the- Story today for Forty-ninth State readers the story of Creole tcutome and cookery. together with recipes that have been proved.

and among which I may be found many suggestion for the housewife. To some they may be brand-newto others tionally old, but their merit is their reliability and worth. 'flavor come to our banquet boards 1sT rather, if not otu la ea, ea sor New Year's Day itself, then early in 1925. I Creole dishes. go welt on a cold dayand the hest (or the worst).

of before isr us And in this the winter one-time -Louisiana territory, with its heritage of French and of Span- ish-ahowever far removedthe rich seasonings may find a welcome So from New Orleang come. the, story today for Forty-ninth State readers the story of Creole customs and cookery together with recipes that have be en proved. and among which may be found many a suggestion for the housewife. To some they may be brand-newto others tradi, tionally old, but their merit is their reliability and worth. wordy.

bad tb ngs from mediocre cookbooks have been omitted. But the good recipes, representative of cooking in foreign countried as well as the variotts types of American cookeryNew England, Southern, Creole etc.are given in plan-A school renowned for its standards in food work stands back of the book: an editor who possesses unending patience. thoroughness and a systematic, orderly 'mind has devoted years to the actual compilation. the testing of'the recipes and the arrangement of the material in the book. Our best advice to any boumakeeper is to get a copy as soon as she can get to the phone and order Itand for men folk to add it to their Christmas list for her.

(N. B. We get none Of the royalties') Everybody'll Cookbook, edited by Isabel Ely Lord. Published by Henry Bolt di CAN. West Forty-fourth street.

4 44 given in Dien- ern ureo etc ar ittide A- aCa001 renowned for Its stand- food work stands back of ards in the book: an editor who Possesses unending patience- thoroughness and a sYstematic. orderly 'Mind has devoted years to the actual compile. tion. the testing of the recipes and the arrangement of the material in the book Our best advice to any house- keeper is to get a copy ex soon as She can get to the phone and order itand for men folk to add it to their Christmas list for her (N. H.

We get none of the roYaltleal Everybody'll Cookbook, edited by Isabel Ely Lord. Published by flea- ry Holt Waal Forty-tem-0i --A as14 4 -4- 1 a OOD NEWS Today and Every Fri ----ay r--A 1 a --21011011mmilas-.