The Spokesman-Review from Spokane, Washington • 35

i pm Spokane, March 10. 1985. THE SpOKESMAN- Mayan ruins: A fascinating look back -n jf -V X. S' JL: You dont have to go to Egypt for pyramids By MIKESHOUP Knight Ridder CHICHEN ITZA, Mexico As fierce as some of them were said to be, the Mayan gods must chuckle heartily at the tour buses that disgorge their loads here each day to view the most famous and extensive remnants of this once-flourishing culture. Centuries ago, thousands of Mayan cities and villages prospered in the Yucatan, in a band stretching from the tip of the peninsula in the north down to the mountains of Honduras and Guatemala.

Most of the sites have long since been reclaimed by the low, creeping jungle that surrounds this renowned area, which is a long day-trip (3V4 hours each way) from the tourist city of Cancun and less from the inland city of Merida. Even if youve only got a day to see Chichen Itza, its worth the trip, although the ground and parking lot may sometimes resemble the environs of the Gettysburg battlefield on a hot July day. Archaeologists have found remnants of human occupation in the Yucatan dating as far back as 2500 B.C., although the classical Mayan period is generally dated from 300 A.D. to 900 A.D. The best-preserved ruins here at Chichen ll tr i T.

-H ff-r-rT s. -f Oil TtV One of the most impressive of the Mayan ruins is El Castillo, a 75-foot-high pyramid. Itza represent a blend of Mayan and Toltec from what is called the post-classical period after 900, when the Toltecs conquered and ab URAVEIL EMK 85 Spokanes Third Annual Travel Exposition short distance is the sacred cenote, a sacrificial well that yielded up gold and the skeletons of men, women and children when it was drained earlier in this century. (Our guide said the 1950s; the Fielding guide says 1923.) As you enter the site, on your left, you see a long field, 1V4 times the size of a football field, where athletes played a soccerlike game using a small, hard rubber ball that was passed through target rings 20 feet above the ground. The stone rings are still there, and below them, along the lower sections of each sloping wall flanking the court, are low-relief stone carvings, depicting incidents in the game.

Judging from the carvings, the prospect of losing was bleak indeed. They show a man, presumably the captain of the winning team, holding a knife in one hand and the head of his victim the leader of the opposing team in another. From the head sprout six serpents and a plant, symbolizing, the guidebook says, the religious purpose of the ritual, fertility and renewal. This hardly scratches the surface of what you can see at Chichen Itza; there are other ruins in the north section, plus the whole south section, which is Mayan in origin and dates from the period 600 to 900 A.D. Those with the mildest of interest in Mayan culture may well want to rent a car and make it an overnight trip, staying at any of several hotels and motels nearby, or in Valladolid, a small Mayan city about 30 miles east toward Cancun.

The distance from Cancun is less than 200 miles, but the time gap must be close to a of the Toltec calendar year. Whats really intriguing is that on the equinoxes, March 20 ana Sept. 21 each year, for about 10 minutes, the sun casts a perfect undulating shadow on the western balustrade that goes from top to bottom in serpent-like form, ending at the carved stone serpent head at the base. Scholars speculate that the phenomenon was connected somehow with rituals beginning a new agricultural cycle. If youre in good physical condition, arent bothered by vertigo and dont have acrophobia, climb the 91 steps to the platform for an excellent view of the surrounding ruins and jungle.

You may not have to use the chain thats stretched up the middle of the steps when youre going up, but it will be tempting on the way down, for the pitch is steep, and youd be reduced to pulp if you fell to the bottom. The pyramid is an excellent example of the religious custom of building one temple over another, and on the side you can enter a narrow doorway and climb through an even narrower, dank stone staircase to an interior temple above. There are two chambers here, one containing a faded red throne built to resemble a jaguar and the other a small chacmool sculpture. Chacmools are lifelike stone figures sculpted in a reclining posture, with knees up and hands holding a receptable, in which human hearts may have been placed during sacrificial ceremonies. You may find the wait in the sun and the claustrophobic climb with a bunch of sweaty tourists not worth the effort.

And, yes, there were sacrifices here. Within a CRUISE COMPANIES I RESORTS RIVER TRIPS TOURIST BUREAUS AIRLINES TOUR OPERATORS CAR RENTAL FIRMS HOTELS sorbed the Mayans. If you start to read guidebooks about Chichen Itza and especially if you listen to the guides you will find the facts much in dispute regarding both the origins and transitional periods of the cultures that once thrived here only to wither away or be absorbed by others. With little more than two hours to see Chichen Itza, youll end up spending most of your time in the newer, best-preserved ruins of Toltec Chichen, dominated by El Castillo, the pyramid that without any doubt is the most impressive monument here. Its only 75 feet high, but it appears much taller because the side panels diminish as they slope up to the platform atop the pyramid.

El Castillo is a study in itself, built to precise astronomical lines and related directly to the spring and fall equinoxes. There are four staircases (two that face the lawn have been restored and can be climbed), each with 91 steps, for a total of 364 steps that lead up to the upper Elatform, the 365th step, representing the num-er of days in a solar year. Each side of the pyramid has 52 panels that correspond to the number of weeks in a Toltec cycle, and the nine terraces that form each side of the pyramid are each divided by a flight of steps, resulting in 18 sections the 18 months DOOR PRIZES DOOR PRIZES DOOR PRIZES ft i The Largest Showcase of Vacation Travel companies ever assembled in The Inland Empire ml" 4' SPOKANE CONVENTION CENTER Jr trips froa staff, wlra reports MARCH ROUND TRIP AIR FARE FROM SPOKANE. 727 NON-STOP FLIGHT. (ALSO.

-4 NITE PKG." FROM $162 PER PERSON.) JET SET TRAVEL S. 1 8 Monroe (509) 455-5944 AMTRAK will service the Izaak Walton Inn and the Essex community on a year-round basis if a group of five or more passengers board or deboard at the stop. SPONSORED BY: SPOKANE WORLD TRAVEL, EMPIRE TOURS INTERSPORT INTERNATIONAL FLY FREE! ROUND TRIP c110 NON-STOP JET llO LESS CASINO c.fl10 REBATES llO For die-hard skiers Some skiers just dont know when to quit. At Colorados Keystone Resort, they dont have to. Keystones Arapahoe Basin is the highest lift-served ski area in North America at 12,450 feet above sea level.

Its slopes stay snow-covered until sometime in June. For information and reservations, contact Keystone Resort, Box 38, Keystone, Colo. 80435. Phone: 303-468-4242. focus on ancient history.

Departing San Francisco Oct. 12, 1985, and returning Nov. 2, the group will visit Tel Aviv, Galilee, Jerusalem, the Dead Sea, Bethlehem, and includes a five-day Nile River cruise. Per-person cost, land only, including the Nile cruise, is $3,384. For more information call or write Siemer Hand Travel, 415-788-7186, 2 Embarcadero Center, San Francisco, Calif.

94111. Literary tours Wilson Lake International has announced its 1985 program of literary and historical tours of England and Scotland. Each tour has its own theme and special experiences and will be personally escorted by tour guides from the firms British offices. Groups are strictly limited in size and prices range from $1,119 to $1,449 per person double occupancy, excluding airfare. Contact Wilson Lake Inernational, One Appian Way, Suite 704-8, South San Francisco, Calif.

94080. Phone: mm Saturday Mite Live NO CASINO REQUIREMENTS NO CASINO RESTRICTIONS YOUR COST. Fun Flights Every Week on PSA 150 Passenger Jet NEVADA EXPRESS tours'. Mideast tour in fall San Franciscos World Affairs Council is sponsoring a trip to the Mideast in the fall of 1985. Led by Ambassador Roy Atherton, retired foreign service head in the Mideast, the trip will Departs Spokane 7:55 p.m.

every Saturday Returns 10:25 a.m. Sunday E. 2202 Sprague Spokane, WA 99202 Office Hours: p.m., Sat 9-5 p.m. THE MOST COMPREHENSIVE CANADIAN COAST AND ALASKA INSIDE MSSAGEX'IUJISE. Historic inn to receive rail service AMTRAK will begin serving the historic Izaak Walton Inn and the remote Rocky Mountain community of Essex, Montana.

AMTRAK officials announced Special Stop service to Essex, located a quarter-mile off U.S. 2 near the Marias Pass Summit. The Izaak Walton Inn received confirmation of the decision in February from the AMTRAK office in Washington, D.C. The Izaak Walton was originally built by the Great Northern Railroad in 1939 as a soup kitchen and hotel for railroad workers when Great Northern double-tracked from Essex to Summit. A special stop designation means Cruises to chase Halleys Comet New York Dally Newi Two comet-chasing cruises have sold out so quickly (nearly two years before sailing date) that three more have been added.

The reason for the demand is the long-awaited return of Halleys Comet in 1986. The celebrated comet last swept the Earth in 1910 and will not return again until 2061. So Sun Line Cruises has added three new cruising for comets programs aboard its intimate 280-passenger Stella Oceanis. The ship will be positioned to coincide with what are expected to be the best views of the comet, from the Caribbean to Tangier, from the West Indies to South America, from West Africa to Europe. Ship programs will be geared to the comet with many of the worlds most respected authorities lecturing on the history and science of comets.

Other shipboard topics will range from how to photograph the comet to lectures on the constellations, stars and deep sky objects. Ohio astronomer Ted Pedas will lead many of the talks on the top deck late at night under the stars. Presunrise talks each day before sunrise the comet will appeal higher and higher are also on the horizon. Halleys Comet is named for 18th-century English astronomer Edmond Halley, who first computed its orbit. It was first sighted in 1066.

It was regarded as a sign of imminent catastrophe at first throughout history it has been connected to great events: cataclysms, wars, pestilence, famine, victories, the death of kings and the fear has lingered. Indeed, when Halleys Comet last appeared in 1910, many feared its tail included gasses that would destroy the world. Further information is available from Sun Line, One Rockefeller Plaza, New York, N.Y. 10020; 212-397-6400. From Seattle, May 8th: The Inaugural Cruise! The most comprehensive cruise from Seattle to Alaska-ever! On May 8, 1985, the newest Explorer Cass ship, the luxurious North Star departs for an extraordinary Inaugural Cruise through Canadian Coastal waters and Alaska majestic Inside Passage.

This is a one-time, unique cruise to position the North Star to its new Alaska cruising season. Don miss this special event the drama and excitement of an Inaugural Cruise! Lynn Canal's magnificent hanging glaciers. Well be entertained An exCiting and lively relic of the Gold Rush Days. SKAGWAY by the colorful Chilkat Indians. HAINES TRACY ARMFORD'S TERROR WILDERNESS AREA explore intimate hidden coves and friendly little towns.

Or you can stay aboard and enjoy all the comforts. You'll discover large, handsome stated rooms. Dining in a lovely dining room -f -with spacious panoramic windows and -r cuisine thatll gain your highest praise. 4 Cruising activities from swimming to sunning to shufileboard and trapshooting. Cozy bars.

Large comfortable lounges and intimate latenight dancing. Naturalist lectures, theatre and library. SUNSHINE GUARANTEE! May days are sunny, warm and exhilarating! The perfect time to cruise the Inside Passage-Alaskas spectacular season of intense green forests, wildflowers and beautiful clear skies! But just to make sure you receive the Alaska cruise vacation you want, we're guaranteeing the sun during North Stars Inaugural Cruise. If you dont see sun on at least 5 days of the Inaugural Cruise, well present you with a 25 OFF Discount Voucher good for any future Explorer Class cruise, to any of our destinations. For reservations or to request our free brochure, see any Travel Agent, write or call toll free 1-800-426-G600 (in Seattle 624-8551).

PORT CHILX00T Alaskas fascinating and One of the most dramatic historic state capital. fjord cruising experiences Lynn Canal AY LODGE JUNEAU in the world. ADMIRALTY ISLAND NATIONAL MONUMENT FREE AIR TO CELEBRATE THE INAUGURAL CRUISE! To start you off on the best Alaska cruise ever offered, were throwing in free air fare from cities in the Pacific Northwest to and from your Inaugural Cruise What better way to celebrate the most exciting ship ever to cruise Alaska? THE ULTIMATE ALASKA CRUISE. For years, Explorer Class has offered the most comprehensive, most indepth Alaska cruises. You view all the National Parks and Monuments in MBTY FJORDS Southeast Alaska.

You NATIONAL MONUMENT see more wildlife. granite cliffs and sky-high waterfallsbreathtaking beauty PRINCE RUPERT Don't miss the fine Hatda totem poles collection. 1 GUSTAVUS You experience more of Alaska and do things not possible on any other cruise. We cruise the Alaska the big ships cant. And, aboard the spectacular Inaugural Cruise of the North Star you get all our famous Alaska cruise, plus a cruise from Seattle through majestic Canadian Coastal waters.

THE EXCITEMENT OF AN INAUGURAL CRUISE. Imagine the fun and excitement of our Gala Departure from Seattle. Invite your friends down to the dock for our Departure Party. Show them the North Star. Raise your glasses in a farewell toast! FIRST TOTALLY LUXURIOUS SHIP SMALL ENOUGH TO BE EXPLORER CLASS.

Explorer Class is very different from other cruises-we truly feature the destination. The North Star will take you and a few fellow passengers in the launch to ANGOO ERSBURG Strait LECONTE 'GLACIER WRANGELL Wrangell Narrows GLACIER BAY NATIONAL PARK A ftiS day of exploring this spectacular bay of tidewater glaciers, wildlife and majestic scenery. Alaskas premier attraction! Icy SITKA Gala Captain's Dinner We often spot humpback whales' in this area. Larger ships cant cruise Special tour of Old Sitka, Alaskas Gateway City'. these exquisite, lovely, tor- and a performance by the Dont miss infamous ested passages.

New Archangel Dancers, Creek Street. EXPLORATION HOLIDAYS AND CRUISES 1500 Metropolitan Park Bldg Seattle, WA 98101 fascinating, cosmopolitan City-some say the most beautiful ot all. V' British Columbia Queen Charlotte Sound Queen Charlotte Islands Captains Get -Acquainted Cocktail Party and Dinner. Vancouver Island xotorer Class cruising style is famous tor informal, relaxed good times wtft great service, Our cruise ts leisurely paced to explore the fasemating coastline, towns and attractions ot Canada and Alaska Washington A fun, exciting Gala Departure Party for you and your friends. The Is North Star Is of Norwegian registry, Length 295 ft.

Width 46 ft Tonnage 3,095 grt Cruising speed 13.5 knots 158 passengers. Fully stabilized $65 per person will automatically be added to Cruise pnee lor port charges and Prince Rupert transfers Prices include cruise services between Seattle and Pnnce Rupert, based on double occupancy ol stateroom category as selected, meals, entertainment and shore excursions desenbed as included Airfare included as indicated Single, tnple, quad and children's rates available on request Seattle. Portland and Spokane iNM.