Petoskey News-Review from Petoskey, Michigan • 15

Tapawingo chef receives national recognition 05 1 mm mmm LJ V-X LI JU.U LI LI if '1 T5 CD 0) Q- 1. The "What! Me-Cook-In-This-Heat!" reason. 2. The "rve-Had-It-With-Fast-Food!" reason. 3.

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IIS- 'feP' NEWS photo by Kris Swanguarln Harlan (Pete) Peterson, chef and owner of Tapawingo restaurant in Ellsworth is receiving national recognition for his culinary creations with local foods. By KRIS SWANGUARIN News-Review staff writer ELLSWORTH In the four short years Harlan (Pete) Peterson has owned Tapawingo restaurant he has made a reputation for himself in Northern Michigan as a leading proponent of gourmet food prepared from local ingredients. Now, the owner and chef of the quaint and sophisticated Ellsworth restaurant is gaining national attention as a leading chief in the Midwest. On Nov. 6 Peterson, accompanied by sous-chef Melissa Yard, was the chef chosen to represent Michigan at a dinner for 500 sponsored by Christian Brothers vintners at the American Institute of Wine and Food's National Conference on Gastronomy.

Called A Heartland Dinner, the seven course feast was prepared by seven leading chefs from Illinois, Minnesota, Ohio and Michigan. The meal was intended to showcase the finest fresh ingredients produced in the Midwest. Peterson said it was the first time food from the Midwest was featured at the conference. "The Midwest doesn't often get a chance to show off quality food in this area," Peterson said. "It's usually the East, New York or Louisiana or some other region in the spotlight." The entree Peterson and a Chicago chef put together was a hunter's plate of grilled venison and grilled loin of pork with sauteed rabbit, served with a filo cup of root vegetables.

A 1984 Christian Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon was served to complement the dish. Peterson said the idea goes back to making food as good as it can be and the key is freshness. "France became famous because of their fresh food," Peterson said. Taking to heart the adage 'fresh is best' Peterson procures what he calls "next door" ingredients: fish from Charlevoix or Bellaire, pheasants from local game preserves, and produce from three people who grow just for Tapawingo. Peterson adheres to the fresh principle even during the Christmas season, which begins Dec.

12. He insists that Michigan has as many food products to offer as California. The catch is Michigan availability changes with the seasons. "In winter you have to be creative," Peterson said. "You can use squashes, fish, venison, pheasants." In February Peterson's creativity will be put to the test as he travels to New York City as the chosen chef of the James Beard Foundation's Rising Stars of American Cooking program.

Dinners at the foundation highlight well established and proven chefs who have yet to gain national recognition. Peterson said, "The seasonality changes your palate. I think by the time winter comes around we're 1 teaspoon freshly ground peper V4 cup currant jelly xk cup sour cream, if desired 1 pound mushrooms, domestic or wild, cleaned and sauteed Combine the marinade ingredients. Put the boned venison in a non-reactive pan and cover with the marinade. Refrigerate and marinate for two days.

When ready to cook, dry off the loins, and cut into steaks about V2 inch thick. Carefully pound the meat to about a V4 inch thickness with a meat pounder. Meanwhile prepare the sauce and get the grill ready for Introducing Holly Farms' new Oven Roasted Chicken. It's ready when you are delicious hot or cold. Roasted to perfection, and so juicy.

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grilling. (Alternately, the medal lions can be quickly sauteed in a pan.) For the sauce, put the reserved ready to try hardier dishes." Despite great variety there is a sameness to the food offered in California restaurants Peterson said. "Better restaurants offer different menus," he said. At the Beard dinner he will serve 50 guests, including foundation members and representatives of the national media, the best of the Midwest. "We'll want to show them Midwestern cooking isn't just the old covered hot dishes.

If the foundation's guests come anticipating tuna melt and tomato soup, they will definitely be in for a tasty surprise. Following is Peterson's recipe for Medallions of Venison with Red Wine Sauce. MEDALLIONS OF VENISON WITH RED WINE SAUCE 1 vension saddle, boned The marinade: 1 bottle good red wine 1t cup oil, preferably olive oil 1 thinly sliced medium onion 2 peeled and thinly sliced carrots 1 stock of celery with leaves, chopped 12 juniper berries, crushed The sauce: Broth made from vension bones or good beef broth 1 teaspoon thyme 3 bay leaves 3 sprigs parsley, chopped marinade in a skillet, bring to a boil, and continuing the high heat, reduce it to about two cups. Strain the marinade. Simmer the mari nade with four cups of meat broth until reduced to a total of about four cups.

Add the currant jelly, sour cream, and adjust for season i in mmm, ing. Just before serving, fold in the sauteed mushrooms. Quickly grill the meat on a char C1TR0DUCIHG A delicious hew reason hot to cook. coal grill or with seasoned apple or alder wood. (Or saute in oil in a hot pan.) Serve with the red wine-mushroom sauce.

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