The Brooklyn Daily Eagle from Brooklyn, New York • Page 7

BROOKLYN EAGLE, NOV. 14, 1954 In 1892 they moved to the pre wine merchant, bought Gag V( Tollner's in 1919. ent address, 374 Fulton St. It Probably the youngest men SHADES OF DIAMOND JIM BRADY Famed Downtown Eating Place Marking Its 75th Anniversary was Tollner's Idea to line the walls with mirrors. He reasoned that customers might in the restaurant no woman? has ever worked there are tlja; sons of Seth Bradford Edward, 34, and Thomas, JJ, who have been operating Jt since the late 40s.

tire of paintings, but never of looking at themselves. They are pledged to carry on the old policies and maintain "-AiS tne traditions. About tne omy innovation they have made Is whale steak with onions. It has been well received. The two restaurateurs thought that Edison's recently invented electric light might be good thing, but they weren't ready to try it at the time.

To play safe, they had the gas chandeliers wired for electricity in case they changed their minds. The gaslights still work. They wece changed for natural gas daring the big conversion. In 1911 the original The tradition of decoram and consideration for the en tomers has been well instillH in them. For example, when in 1949 a temporary dish- washer stabbed the chief pantryman, the managers refused to let the police walk through the dining room, Insisting that they use the service entrance.

sold out to Cunningham and Ingalls, who agreed to maintain the restaurant's policies. Seth Bradford Dewey, a Manhattan MOOKtVII casptn en HEADWAITER LEON AND SOME 'YOUNGSTERS' Headwoiter Leon Gaskill, wearing the long jacket, just finished 50 years at Gage Tollner's and he wears two gold eagles to prove it. Left to right, Jesse Kirklond, 13 years; Leon; Eddie Hall, 12 years, ond Rufus Coleman, 12 years, discuss the menu for the day. Gold eagle stands for 25 years, gold star for five years and gold bar for one year. '3 yrM llliSli it was a nice thing, he left.

He Nylon their meals and began to leave he called out in a loud voice, "Look! Look! There they go. It will he 100 years before they can come back." He never drank. Another lunch-hour character was a well-dressed man who stopped in every day to examine the menu. After checking on the availability of various dishes and remarking that never ordered lunch. The restaurant was opened in 1879 by Charles Gage at 303 Fulton St.

and he was joined a year later by Eugene Tollner. a iaa a uciigiiis I for Little Sisters A GHRDEII tITV BROOKIVII ii i Eagle Photos br Jule. Geller UNDERNEATH THE GASLIGHTS David Morley, a waiter at Gage Tollner's for 29 years, takes a luncheon order at a table beneath one of the old, bronze gas chandeliers. Although wired for electricity back in 1 892, they illuminated the restaurant for many years with gas. Electricity is used now, except for anniversary weeks, when the customers eat by gaslight.

By J. F. WILKINSON The same gaslight which burned while Diamond Jim Brady dined with Lillian Russell will be turned on again from tomorrow through Saturday when Gage Tollner's, Brooklyn's oldest and most famous oyster and chop house, celebrates its 75th anniversary. I Although time has turned! fo a Manhattan man who claimed record. a hours.

I did that number regularly for days at a time, stopping only for food and prayer." downtown Fulton St. into and a jungle of neon Gage Tollner's has had its share of unusual" customers "He brags, mind you, about 50 oysters in three minutes aud three and three-quarter seconds," said John. "I never in my life went that slow except when I was tired late on Saturday nights. I point with pride to figures that do not lie 9,250 oysters in nine Kor many years a sober, prosperous-looking gentleman came chrome, Gage Tollner's has stubbornly resisted change. The walls are still lined with large mirrors and red brocaded velvet.

Glossy mahogany table tops reflect in every day for lunch and lin gered over it. bvery day as the noondav eaters finished ino feathers make a festive felt CRRDEI1 (ITV BROOKIVII A beguiling lial of fur-fell rircled with matching feathers, and the discreet sparkle of rhinestones. Wonderfully flattering to a lovely lady. Dior blue, amethyst, beige, royal, mauve pink, white, black, brown. Adjustable headmr.

Brooklyn ttore only. 10 STREET FLOOR MILLINERY Win i (y i i In the glitter of cut glass chandeliers. On the wall at every table is still a cluster of long -shanked hooks, made to accommodate the high Ilk hats of the hansom cab era. The restaurant doesn't even have a cash register. The only concessions to' modernity have been air conditioning and a stainless steel kitchen.

Gage Tollner's has no floor ihow, dancing, juke box, television or table-hopping celebrities. It exists only to serve traditional American food. It has been cited twice in Holiday Magazine's short list of out-Standing restaurants. The maga-fine refers to it as "One of the world's best sea food restaurants." Except f'r the prices, the menu hasn't changed since the house was established. It resembles a pamphlet and is a la carte right down to the bread and butter.

It lists 49 oyster dishes, 49 clam dishes, CO ways of eating scallops and IS lobster preparations. Potatoes are served in 17 different ways. The restaurant serves no roasts, only food which can be cooked to order. Most of the customers have their favorite waiters and tables. Many of them are third and fourth generation patrons.

Diners are encouraged by the waiters to eat in a leisurely fashion and most of them spend an hour and one-half over dinner. Waiters must a five-year apprenticeship as busboy before they are allowed to don the short, black jacket, long white apron and black tie. They wear gold lace insignia on their sleeves to denote their time In service a gold eagle for 25 years, gold star for five years and gold bar for one year. Knew 5,000 by Name Leon Gaskill, the headwaiter, has been with Gage Tollner's for 50 years. He succeeded his older brother, Ike, who retired eight years ago after 46 years! service.

Ike knew about 5,000 people by name, although he habitually addressed his men customers as Judge, Boss, Chief, Commissioner or Doctor. Another legend was John Andrews, hired when the restaurant opened in 1879, who was proud of his oyster-opening ability. In a 1921 newspaper Interview he had nothing Embroidered nylon tricot by Vanity Fair Femininity personified in tbis ny lrtn triif alin anil nttv! Fmbpl. lloliday Glamour Special! (tD ii Hi no permanent Including style cut and hair-do that flatter you Tha popular permanent for softer new hair rtylei. A new glamour will rm yours for the festive, holiday season ahead.

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