THE BKOOKXYN BADLY EAGLE - SUNDAY, DECEMBER 20, 1896. 25 THE LATEST FASHIONS. Accessories of Dress That Are Essential Unbroken Waist Lines. Trimming Bail Gowns Drap rfete Becoming Popular. The accessories of the smart costums this winter are far more Important than the costume Itself. Sitting for an hour on a divan In an exclusive dressmaking department will emphasize this fashion point. One hardly notices the dress except that It fits perfectly and hangs correctly, but one Is forced to notice the double ruffle df sealskin about the neck, lined with pink flowered brocade and the seal muff frilled with costly lace. Then there is the big, fresh bunch of violets, one of the trifles which must never be forgotten among the expensive foibles of the season. Another strolls up to the coeval glass to try the effect of certain materials about her face. Her collar is of sable and green velvet. There are luxurious looting wings of the fur and a big neck bow of velvet, lined with cream satin. The bow passes through a buckle of rhlne stones? No, of diamonds. Those clear, Bpark - ling stones are surely diamonds. Her sable muff is made immense with frills of velvet, lined in the same dainty way. One cannot help wondering what the set cost. These "cols" and . muffs are supposed to look exceptionally well over black or green velvet coat basques, so after all tihe dress Is of some Importance. But comparatively speaking the dress is of less account than these bewitching, whimsical, extravagant confections of fur, velvet and lace. Have you seen the fancy wools with Watte", designs? They are charming. - The silk and wool novelties have been all along wonderfully choice. Glints of gold, copper, green and electric blue make them effective. One tinsel threaded fabric shows a brown ground with steel bine points. Another in blue is pierced wlHh sparkles of red. A brown wool figured with wreaths of small posies has a looped up skirt to show a second skirt of plain brown cloth. The wool skirt is edged with a mink band. Of course there is a fur collar, a quaint affair with wings and tabs. This looped up skirt arrangement is not seen as yet out of Paris except in a few imported models. An unbroken waist line Is the latest cry. Hence the growing popularity of the stately prtneesse gown. For day wear a bolero effect is added. The princesse of to - day is BALL. TOILET FOR A GIRL OF 10. hardly the old time princessi either, with waist and skirt cut in one piece. Now the fronts are Joined to a belt concealed by a rounded bodice. The effect is the same, for so skillfully is the fitting done that the dividing line is hardly perceptible. For evening wear the top of the princesse is cut low and pointed at the back and pompadour in front. Another style to accomplish the unbroken waist line Is to finish the skirt with a cord tfhich dees away with the need of a belt and to wear this over the bodice. It has taken a good deal of hard pushing to bring the princesse style in vogue, one reason being perhaps that only a good dressmaker can accomplish the effect. Then again few women can wear the princesse without an artificial bustle and the bustle has been a tabooed subject in the recent past. But dressmakers say there te always more or less padding done, if on the sly. An odd freak is that of trimming chifTop ball gowns with sable and ermine bands. Ball sowns are rather mysterious affairs anyway. One can hardly guess just how many skirts there are, owing to the flouncing, which is after the 1830 style. Mull sprigged with pink buds and draped over hi'te satin with the waist trimmed with THE PRINCESS STYLE FOR EVENING WEAR. bunches of small rose buds is Just the govn for a youthful debutante. Charming also Is a ball dress for the holidays of white silk flowered in sweet brier roseB with flounclngs of tulle Joined to the skirt by festoon garlands of tiny wild roses fastened with loops of black velvet ribbon. The lapped fronts o - f the silk bodice are embroidered in seed pearls and finished with an edging of embroidered tulle. Sleeves, bow and belt are of black velvet. A white tulle waist striped In baby blue Is Joined to a pointed yoke of white satin embroidered In forget - me - nots. Mousseline brilliante Is a gauzy textile with a satin sheen which Is quite popular for evening waists. Drap d'ete is a new Tabrlc for handsome suits made popular by an exclusive New York firm. It resembles smooth faced cloth, but is found to bo woven with a very fine twill. It hangs moat gracefully and Is, therefore, preferred for some of the new caught up dress skirts. Bottle green drap d'ote, heavily appllqued with black silk braid and trimmed with black Persian lamb Is, as can easily be Imagined, a rich looking winter costume. A touch of lightness Is given to the bodice by a vest of rich brocade with glints of gold, and of course there Is the bolero, which Is always of the drap d'ete. Homespuns with more or less purple in tbo mixture are considered stylish. A dressy pattern is a mixture of brown. "blue and green In the ground, with open squares ot royal purple, the whole sof tened by a film of short In 3 0 o 0 v a & oV A men. brown hair. Tapallne cloth Is nothing but drap d'ote. The fleecy back of this soft material makes it a winter fabric, despite its suggestions of summer. Royal purple tapallne or drap d'ete lightened with chinchilla bands is most effective, while French gray may be subdued with black fur trimmings. Women who have Joined the league against killing birds for millinery purposes should Investigate the subject of the Inky black soft moiro like fur found oh their Imported wraps. It must be about as wicked to wear "unborn lamb" as to wear bird plumage. The skin Is of course of baby softness, with only the suggestion of a kink in It. It was bad enough when garments were simply trimmed with this baby skin, but now it Is not hard to find whole coats of it. Now there's a cry being raised about the wholesale slaughter of seal, which women might as well consider, if they wish to be consistent. Business suits for every day wear may still be stylish. Beside cheviot, wool mixtures and SMART ROUGH AND READY CAPE. serge, zlbellno is a good material. The suit may be thoroughly practical and yet being all of one color demonsirate its stylish intent. Thus a skirt and waist of brown zibel - Ine is worn with a golf cape of double faced brown clo'th brightly plalded on the Inside. The cape is made up to date and natty by a high storm collar of the plaid side. Straps connect the front edges of the cape at throat and bust. With this is worn a brown felt walking hat trimmed with a ribbon band and quills at side. Chatelaine bags are seldom objects of beauty, but they are so prettily shaped this Christmas season and of such fine soft leather, they are more acceptable than usual. With a general out of door or business costume a chatelaine bag is a great convenience. They are shown in colors in harmony with the colors of the winter fabrics, and are finished with old silver. Pockets relieve the necessity somewhat of chatelaine bags, and, strange to say, pockets are at last being put into London tailor made skirts. The style shown on a recent model gives two pockets, one above the other with generous overflaps. ilarle Antoinette damask ribbons are used as bows, girdles, streamers and stocks. That their popularity, however, is on the wane may be told from the numerous bargain sales. The wide ribbons picked up here at such reasonable prices may be utilized for dainty bags of all kinds for Inexpensive gifts. These bright colored bags are even carried shopping for the small parcels which one prefers to take home herself. Mandarine orange velvet is the material of a gay little toque in a window display where the price of each design is marked in plain figures as an inducement to holiday shoppers. It Is trimmed with black astrakhan andcoque plumes. Another pretty model a brown felt sailor has the crown banded with white taffeta ribbon and green velvet, with cream lace tatos at the back and rosettes of green velvet at the right side of front. On the other side are brown silk roses with black quills. FOR BELATED SHOPPEES. Knick - Knacks in Silver Russian Enamels Cut Glass Vases For the Toilet Table Equipments for Bicyclists. The prettiest knick - knacks of the season are In sterling silver, gold plated. In fact, articles of this kind are the high novelties of the holiday trade. Beside the all silver notions there are the same lines in enameled silver and the Dresden productions. A bewildering maze is the result. The only way to shop successfully these last days Is to start out with the list carefully prepared and to allow nothing to take one's attention from the desired purchase. If one is In search of the recherche and exclusive, look by all means for the Pusslan enamel table. Here are choice bits that will require a full purse. Many of these are jeweled in addition to the exquisite and. wonderful coloring. As something intrinsically valuable may be mentioned a card case, bonbonntere or tea caddy In Russian enamel, with the initials or monogram out in so to shoiw the silver underneath. For the desk Cut glass vases, with a fret work border of silver about the rim for a single rose or a bunch of violets; cut glass ink wells, silver mounted; pearl blade paper cutters, 79 cents; pearl blade dnk erasers and envelope openers, 25 cents; sterling silver paper knives, from $1 to $5; book markers, all prices; silver sealing wax holders, $1.25 to $3.75; check cutters, $1.50; seals, $2 to $5; plated and sterling stamp boxes, 50 cents up to $5; pen wipers, sponge cups, mucilage holders, letter chips, paper weights and letter files, all prices. The man In the moon, the rabbit's foot and a red heart flourish this year as decorative motifs. Thus an eleotrlc blue diary renews your acquaintance with that time honored inhabitant of the moon, while a red heart on the top of a letter opener is a common occurrence. The silver topped rabbit's foot serves as a handle for numerous desk accessories as well as for the new nufceot. Photograph frames in gold and silver gilt, in size suitable for the writing table; candlesticks and thermometers are also often included in displays of desk accessories. The red letter paper should not be omitted from the list, or those popular boxes of red, white and blue stationery, with seajlng wax to match. For the toilet table Here the Jewel boxes deserve first mention, for they are especially elegant. Round, oblong, square or triangular, their tops are often elaborate with precious or semi - precious stones. The sum of $150 is not thought extravagant for one of these dainty cases. Miniatures are chased on the backs of hair brushes and clothes brushes, the price ranging from $15 to $25 each. Other toilet articles mounted with jewels are cream boxos at $3.40, salt Jars at $6.75 to $10.75, and puff boxes at $9 and $10. The topaz, carbuncle and amethyst are the favored stones. Cut glass salve boxes, silver mounted, may be found for $1; silver mounted nail polishers, $1; sterling silver hair brushes, $5; smaller size, $3.50; combs to match, $1; silver backed mirrors from $7.50 to $9; nail files from 39 cents up to $1.58. Among plated articles may be mentioned such bargains as hair brushes as low as $2.50, combs as low as 75 cents, atomizers at $2, button hooks at 25, whisk brooms at 75 and hair pin trays at 50 cents. Dresden and Limoges china toilet articles are exceedingly beautiful. Atomizers In cut glass, with gold plaited mountings and netted bulb are worth the $1.50. For the bicyclist Canteen flasks decorated In appropriate wheel designs In all silver or enameled, $10 and $12. Plated flasks as low as $1. Silver plated lamps and tool cases with silver plate for name. For the smoking table Cut glass cigar and tobacco jars heavily mounted with silver, from $10 to $40. Cigar lamps with Ivory handles, $10 to $15; ash trays from $1.50 to $3.50. Match stands for safety matches, pocket match boxes, corkscrews and smoking sets. Among the novelties may be mentioned heart shaped ash receivers In silver, and combination receivers and match stands. A stag horn cigar lighter Is sure to please and Is worth the ten dollar bill. For the tea table Tea caddies in Russian enamel at a sum which makes cut glass tea caddies for $1.50 appear insignificant. Cut glass pitchers, $1.90; tea plates with gold borders, 5 cents each. The teaette a tea strainer with a handle and the holder for the tea ball are new bits for the 5 o'clock tea table array. A gift of gifts is a cracker jar of cut glass with top of gold plated silver set with jewels in a design. The cracker spoon Is another new Idea which will be ot about as much use as sugar tong3, most folks preferring to use their fingers. The Dutch ladle bonbon spoon Is also sold for tea table uses. It has a large open work bowl and a handle broad at tip. This spoon Is passed like a bonbonnlere, and Instead of the same, ranging In price from $16 for the smaller size to $28 for the larger. THE CHRISTMAS DINNER. Appointments for the Table The Pudding Yule Tide Decorations. Japanese Lanterns Menu A Plea for Punch on the Side Table. (Correspondence about Interesting household matters Is desired. Address Queries, suggestions, recipes, general household hints, etc., to Betsey Tod, Eagle oftlce). Although Irish point, renaissance and Ho - n - flton laces are the accepted winter dinner table decorations on Christmas day the hostess may be a law unto herself and have everything as gay as possible. First she must decide on the center piece. This may be a fern dish surrounded with holly stems; It may be a bowl of American beauty roses or a fruit compote garlanded with intertwined holly and mistletoe. Red ribbon streamers may run from the central device to the four corners of the table, each made gorgeous by bows of ribbon and bunches of holly; even the tray cloth and mats may conform to this scheme of color by being wrought In red and green. A few commonplace rules observed In setting the table, whether at Christmas or at any other time, will help make the dinner a success. Have as many forks at each plate as there are soft dishes, which Include fish, vegetables and pastry; have as many knives as there are meats, with one tor butter. For the usual Christmas dinner from two to five forks will be needed and from two to four knives. The napkins and bread and butter plates are other essentials, as Is the glass for water. The number of teaspoons and the kinds of wine glasses depend on the elaboration of the menu. Water carafes ou the corners of the table will be ornamental as well as of use in making the serving easier for the maid or maids, as the case may be. No man o'ojects, to pouring water for himself and those near him. The Christmas plum pudding bears aloft a mlniaturo Christmas tree, while the roast goose reposes on a bed of watercress, dotted with cranberries. A Jack Horner pie is great sport for children and may be the center piece of the children's table. Fill a pan with gifts for each of the party. Hide the pan with crape paper trimmings and cover with a top of the same. A red ribbon should be attached to each parcel with the person's name in gold letters, these lettered ends passing out through the top of the pie. At a signal, after the dessert, each draws his gift. A big family Jack Horner pie affords much fun, especially if It is a five cent Die. with no Dackaees ""in the contents costing over that sum. Yuletide Decorations. The Ideal hostess who enjoys making a business of holiday festivities Is lavish with her decorations. Not content with wreaths and bundles of holly and mistletoe, she has on hand ground pine, laurel, ivy, palms and rosemary. Naturally the dlnlngroom is decorated more elaborately than the other rooms. A prety Idea Is to tack evergreen over the picture rail and festoon it above the mantel with frequent bunches of holly. Cedar trees in the corners add to the gay effect, each one glittering with bon bons, tinsel, pop corn and candles. If one is fortunate enough to have trees especially picked out for the day by country relatives, let these be of fir balsam, thus making the whole house redolent. Trees are often thus used for decoration, without holding the presents, which are disposed of in some other way. Holly bails and holly hoops are effective ways of decorating. A ball of moss about 12 Inches in diameter is held together by wire. This is filled full of sprigs of holly and hung in an archway or under a chandelier by means of red ribbon. These holly balls make very beautiful window decorations, suspended between lace curtains, that are looped back at the sides. Three hoops of different sizes are twined with green and are fastened together, one above the other, with ropes, which are also completely hidden. These hoops, variously trimmed with ivy, holly and mistletoe, may be hung from a hook in a corner or from an archway and, if desired, the smaller presents may be fastened to the hoops by ribbons. For the windows there are the usual wreaths, stars and other set forms hung with large bows. Japanese lanterns harmonize well with the red and green of Christmas decorations. A Jolly surprise may be arranged for the merrymakers by having one of the large lanterns filled with all sorts of fancy favors. At some apropos time these may be scattered over the floor by bursting the sides of the lantern with a cane. A very effective decoration maybe easily accomplished by placing branches of mistletoe over the doors, according to the old custom of the Druids, - who hung the milstlotoe over their entrances to propitiate the sylvan deities. The Menu. Old time custom demands certain viands for the Christmas dinner, but to these have been added many other courses by the modern epicure, so that turkey, mince pie a - nd plum pudding no longer hold the important place which they once did. Now there must be soup, oysters in some shape, salads, game and dainties galore. Of the menus given here the first is the simplest and, hence, suitable for many homes of limited incomes. Menu 1. Tomato soup. Roast turkey. Cranberry Jelly. Onions. Mashed potatoes. Chicken salad. Celery. Olives. Mince pie. Frulf. Nuts. Coffee. Menu 2. Oyster soup. Bread sticks. Bouillon. Roast goose. Apple sauce. California cream. Celery. Sweet potato croquettes. Boiled turkey. Onions. Mashed potatoes. Shrimp salad. Olives. Plum pudding, wine sauce. Orange Jelly, with whipped cream. Lady fingers. Fruit. Coffee. Menu 3. Oysters on the half shell. Vegetable soup. Chicken pates. Bolls. Olives Roast turkey. Cranberry Jelly. Sweet potato croquettes. Roman punch. Broiled quail. Lettuce. Crackers. Cheese. Salted almonds. Mince pie. Biscuit tortonl. Fruit. Nuts. Coffee. Cakes Creme de menthe. As suits the convenience of the housekeeper other dishes may be substituted in each menu. Pates will be found an easy course to manage. Oyster pates may be substituted for chicken pates In menu No. 3, when instead of oysters on the half shell little neck clams would be better, the object of each menu being to afford as great a variety of delicacies as possible without too many courses. Pate shells bought of a first class caterer usually give satisfaction and save work. Celery, olives and salted almonds may be distributed THIS FIGURE of a Woman, IN RED is on every box of SILVER POLISH It's better than any other, and no other is "Just as good." about the table to be nibbled during the entire meal. The housekeeper does not need them to consider them further. No matter how temperate the household, punch of some kind is generally allowed at Christmas, on the plea that; At Chrlatmafl play and make good cheer, ior Christmas comes but once a year. The secret of a good punch Is never known. "Oh, I just keep tasting and mixing" Is the usual wise reply to a request for the rule. Most often this part of the feast is concocted by tho head of the ramily. The basis of cne Christmas punch is a pint of strained green tea and six bottles of claret. To this are added the juice of five or six lemons and of several organes with more or less of cognac, maraschino, curacoa and sugar to suit Ihe taste. Punch should be served from a side table and glasses of every color may be used. Salted almonds, for economy's sake, should be prepared at home and not bought at a confectioner's by the pound. The Jordan shelled almonds are only 40 cents a pound. It is no trouble to blanch these after a little experience. Pour boiling water over a. few at a time and let them stand until the skins slip eft easily. After all .are ready and dried, turn them into a large baking pan with two or three tablespoonfuls of olive - oil. Stir the nuts aboVt and leave in a hot oven until a light brown, stirring them, that all may be browned even. Turn into a colander and sprinkle with fine salt. Set away to allow them to become crisp. Boutonnieres for the men may be sprigs of holly with red pinks for. the corsage bouquets of the women. BETSEY TOD. LOCAL AET NOTES. Wallace Bryant, who Is now in the studio of the Hate Hamilton Gibson, on Lincoln place, is a valuable addition to the contingent of park slope artists. August Laux, Phebe Bunker and the Egglestons are among the group, either living or having studios in that vicinity. Mr. Bryant's large canvas in Kb Academy exhibition has been an object of much attention, as well as his smaller one, with Its shrewd old hunter examining his gun. The larger canvas depicted an old peasant woman in a quaint kitchen, with a wooden bowl on her lap, preparing vegetables. Mr. C. Wiegand has returned from Staten Island and taken a studio at 13 Wlllough'by street. He has brought largely to notice in the last few months the picturesque old houses and byways of St'aten Island. Some of the places where traces of the French settlers still remain have been brought out with much felicity by his brush. John Linton Chapman, who had a studio on Quincy street some time ago, has removed to Baychester. The name of Chapman recalls the artist whose work on drawing was and still is a well known feature of educational literature. The present painter had formerly a studio in Rome, Italy, and took an active part among the colony of English and American artists there. Mr. Chapman paints "Venetian scenes with a sympathy wSiich does not flag as time goes on. Charles A. Buriragame will address the Central Camera club on Monday, the 21st inst., on "Art in Photography." The session will be held at the Young Men's Christian association as usual. Mr. Burlingame is one of the artists who is expert with the camera, and his work is always done with an eye for its artistic value. Mr. Kaufman's "Boot Black," recently exhibited in New York, was suggestive of the style of J. G. Brown. The recent remark of a local artist who had been told that he had painted "a regular Van Marcke cow" might be quoted: "This is my cow, sir," he replied, "and nobody else's. The cow has but a few poses and attitudes; it is Impossible to get one which has not 'been used before, it may be by some famous artist; but the painter copies the cow and not his faimous predecessor." Can the same argument be used for the bootblack? B. J. Wright of Dobbin street had a small, but strong, plaster relief of Franklin at the Academy exhibition which was suggestive of an etching more than aything else. It was interesting and artistic. F. Opper has a residence in one of the suburbs of Brooklyn and many of his aotive and original character sketches have backgrounds or elements which are evidently obtained there. A water color recently noted in hie neigh!borhood was excellent in tone and pict - uresqueness. It showed an old colored maiden in a pinkish gown, and the sketch was full of quiet humor and action. Mr. Opper has a typical artist's nook in this local suburb. Another brother in art, residing at the same place is F. D. Rummel. His sketch - is of shore and water are realistic. Living in sight of these subjects all the time, his wcrk abounds in the incident and changing life of the shore. Mr. Henken, the AdelphI art student, who was spoken of last week as having returned recently from abroad after studying In Paris and Munich, has taken a studio on Chambers street, New York, and is doing some good illustrating. Guy Rose, the popular master at Pratt In the oil painting department, had a noticeable though small canvas at the Academy. It showed some willows presented In an unusual manner. The unconventional quality of the work was very marked. The Sketch club, which has included in its ranks so many now well known artists, then in their student days, still holds It own in usefulness and dignity at the Adelphi. It meets every Tuesday night. Monday and Thursday nights the figure class assembles and Monday, Tuesday and Thursday, the antique. Some time ago the Brooklyn Art club considered a plan to obtain a fund by subscription. With the money a building was to be erected containing an exhibition gallery and studios which could be rented at a moderate rate, yet afford a good income to the club. Could such a plan be carried into effect it would prove of incalculable benefit to local artists and Indirectly to Brooklyn. Miss Maud H. Purdy's informal Christmas exhibit on Thursday and Friday contained some handsome examples of mineral painting. A vase showing a figure standing in a marble court feeding birds was finished in color and composition. Around the border of the vase gold birds were flying and the back had a passion flower thereon. A circular slab had a beautiful design of purple and white grapes, the translucent effects being fine and the warmth of the color satisfactory - A frame in which child faces were painted, like miniatures set In the surface, was novel and attractive. An open bonbon dish with a border of white violets In relief and purple ones below, was also dainty and pretty. One with roses and forget - me - nots in relief and one with figures In the same style were shown. M. E. Close, who used to do some good water color work with autumn and spring as subjective seasons, has been unable, through Illness, lately to use the brush. She was ever, in sympathy with nature In her quiet moods, and it is a matter of regret that ill health keeps any good local aquarellist out of the field. Miss Louise Goldsmith has a studio at 758 Marey avenue, where she works in oil, pastel and mineral painting. Her subjects are of good variety. A number of the original drawings and some water colors of the late Hamilton Gibson were purchased by Prang & Co, and to the Brooklynite who remembers the genial artist In his studio on the park slope it is something like going into It, minus the presence of the master, to find one's self surrounded once more by his work. The pictures are at 43 and 47 East Tenth street, New York. Last season local ceramic artists followed the fad of decorating their china with hawthorn sprays. This year wild roses seem to be all the rage. The oriental coloring in china, rich and dark, is very popular. ' A finely handled group of apples, the work of a local artist, Mrs. Marsh, is on exhibition at Hooper's. The composition Is unstudied and harmonious. The fruit Is of the rich carmine shade with an additional sphere or two of pale yellow lying beside the warmer tinted ones. The lights and the modeling are both excellent. Mrs. Marsh has done some good work before now as a" fruit painter. Miss Tukey is a member of the local Ceramic society, but has painted In oil and other mediums. She has posed for a number of the artists here and several of Margaret Fernie's most Interesting canvases bad Miss Tukey as their chief feature, notably one called "Looking for a Bird." Miss Stella Brown of Union street has an accurate and delicate touch In mineral painting and is known outside of local circles as well as In them as an accomplished artist. Miss Halsey of the Bank building group of artists has some good water colors, among which Is one showing a bit of the forest at Lib - i erty, with Its sturdy trees and rich green sward. Her Maytime orchard scenes are also ! sympathetic, with a light French handling I about them. A marine view at Seabrlght is particularly harmonious la Its manipulation, sky, sea and shore repeating the neutral tones In a most agreeable manner. Miss Isabel Adams, who was formerly a hill resident here, has become one of tho popular young designers and artists in mineral painting In Chicago. Her work had an excellent place in the Columbian exhibit. The Rembrandt club founded a scholarship this year, the candidate to have a course at the Brooklyn Art school. It has been awarded to Miss Carpenter of the graduating class of the girls' high school. The competition has been a spirited one and the winner ot the scholarship Is considered an especially talented and progressive art student. On Monday last an art exhibition was opened at the Pratt art building of photographs and Illustrated books on architecture, sculpture and painting. Egyptian, Grecian and Roman styles In these departments are shown. The exhibition is a complete one and will remain on view till January 9. J. H. Moore, a pupil of Joseph Boston and a former member of the sketch class of the Brooklyn Art school. Is doing some excellent professional work and exhibiting in prominent galleries. Miss Ada M. Field has one of her pictures reproduced in the Student for this month. It is a strong and sensitive head of an elderly woman. . Miss Field studied under Professor Whittaker. A local artist, speaking of the recent exhibition by De Longpre, said: "It makes me tired to hear people say, 'His work Is hard and there Is no breadth to it tame and flat.' Why, it is absolutely perfect In grace, color and delicacy of effect. Of course. It is not beefy, but It is broad enough and wonderfully effective." Miss Florence Estelle Gampell of the Adelphi Art school has had a portrait used as an Illustration in a New York art publication this month. The portrait Is an excellent one, the drapery accessories giving it a harmonious finish. Tho composition class at the Brooklyn Art school had for subject last week a shipwreck. A portrait of General Grant will be on exhibition in about a week at Hooper's. It is lately finished and has been pronounced by Colonel Fred Grant, the general's son, to be the most successful one yet painted of his father. It Is full length and is the work of D. J. Gue. EAN0TAUX AS DIPLOMAT. Evolution of the French Minister of Foreign Affairs How He Ac quitted Himself as a Lecturer on History His Way Upward. Eagle Paris Bureau, December 5 In these days or political mediocrity it is not often that ens can speak of the worth, knowledge and science of statesmen in France. Men are not elected deputies because they know more about the country, or because they have more natural aptitudes than other men. Living in a Republican government you know better than I why men are elected to preside over M. HANOTAUX. political events. But in America men are born politicians Ja the sense that from their early boyhood they read and discuss politics; they feel that they are the props and that if they failed in their political duties they would fail in a part of what constitutes American manhood. Frenchmen take an entirely different view of politics or rather republicanism. Why be a stanch Republican? French history teaches us that governments have changed when there were as few probabilities of change as to - day, and in the short space of a day, if events so willed it, It would be necessary to be converted to the Idea that a kingdom or an empire Is far preferable to a republic; and those who do not, the hirelings of the government, think it Is too much trouble to hold adamantine republican principles when necessarily they are not built on any lasting foundation. As for those who have offices, who live off the government, they are too much preoccupied with the idea of a re - election to give much time In tho fulfillment of the duties of the posts they hold. If every deputy, upon entering Into the chamber, was obliged to give the real reason why he has gone to the trouble to be elected, the nation would be edified, and would conclude, more than it now does, that the country would get along as well if not better without this assembly of law makers. I personally know one man who is now working to become an elected officer of the nation. He Is fast spending a small fortune honestly accumulated in the purchase of worthless Journals in order that his voice may be heard in the land, and that his republican principles may be made known to a population who does not care a fig whether he has any or not. In these procured sheets he daily proclaims that the nation is tottering to ruin, and that a new reconstituting party is necessary in the chamber. The whole secret of this zeal to save his country is personal ambition; the man has got tho idea in his head to be somebody, and he has told some or his friends, in secret that he does not wish to die without wearing the small red bow In his buttonhole, without being a chevalier of the Legion d'Honneur. But as I want to say a Tew words about M. Hanotaux, the usual mediocrity of French ministers would be more apropos than that of the other props of the Republican government. The change or cabinets and, consequently, of ministers, has been the standing joke, not only for pamphlets and comic papers, but also for those who are forced to recognize a fact, because of its long duration. There is probably no parallel in history of the frequent overthrow of ministers such as we have witnessed since the beginning of this republic. There were deputies such as Clemenceau, who, it Is said, made It a diversion to overthrow cabinets. When these nervous men felt like breaking a chair or any other piece of household" furniture, they thought it more economical to go to the chamber, step Into the tribune and break up a cabinet. So great a number of ministers have succeeded each other, men with obscure titles to the place, that one Is not surprised to see "ex - minister" on the card of a man who seeks a position. However, the employer is not dazed by .the title and Is apt to remark that the qualification Is not a recommendation; the occupation was too ephemeral. But among all those ministers who, like meteors, have crossed the heavens of the French government, there is one who has gained the confidence of the nation, who promises to gain the attention and obtain the confidence of foreign powers. Hanotaux's diplomatic science and tact was recognized during the negotiations, whatever they were, between France and Russia. I cannot say that he hastened matters and that he has that famous alliance In a pigeonhole of his secretary in the palace of foreign affairs. In Quail d'Orsay, but he has known how to pursue matters to the satisfaction of both nations; and among those that the czar has tho most honored with length of conversation and public consideration is Hanotaux, the minister of foreign affairs. Not only does he know how to conciliate friendly nations and bring them closer to his own, but he knows how to gain the respect of countries, which, like Germany, have ever an eye open in order not to let the least demeanor pass by from the country they call l'enfant terrible of the European family. Hanotaux, although still a young man, has succeeded In gaining what is rarest, and, consequently, what is prized most, the respect of all of his compatriots. Everyone feels that he is dead In earnest and that he has cultivated what today Is the rarest thing to be found cool diplomacy, a sense ot logic, unadulterated with erring enthusiasm. He is, beside, possessed with a power which Is greater than persuasive eloquence, that of convincing his hearers that he is sincere. One now quotes Hanotaux with a conviction that, if he Is anything, he Is truthful; and, when he has mounted the tribune in the chamber, the deputies at once become deferential and, after his speeches, they express their satisfaction, for they feel that theynhave listened to a man and to a patriot. Not long since the question of the massacre of the Armenians came up in one of the meetings of the chamber, and a few of tffae deputies declared that It was time for European powers to see that the massacres be stopped. In an eloquent speech, M. Denys Cochin alluded to the friendly alliance with foreign countries, having it understood that Russia was the principal power alluded to. In one part of it he declared that everyone can be proud of that friendship, whose ties have grown closer with an interchange of visits. But now it was the moment to make an appeal to It. The friendship of France was precious, but friendship has Its duties, and allies must be told of it, must be told that association is necessary when she wishes to sustain the weak and 'break the chain of the oppressed. An explanation was demanded of M. Hanotaux, the minister of foreign 'affairs. After having mounted the tribune, he declared that France and Russia had come to an understanding, not, however, without the co - operation of all the European powers, and they will see that the inhabitants of all kinds, be they Armenians, Christians or Musse'.rnans, be protected and have a right to appeal to the same laws. Europe, has decided that the sulian shall be made aware of the injustice in his political, financial and administrative movements, and will indicate to him the means of re - establishing order. In tills little speech, Hanotaux gave proif that he had full knowledge ol what was being done, and that he would no ionger permi; France to remain in the dark and be treated as if irresponsible. He had been made aware that the European powers, those whlch signed the treaty of Berlin, had concluded to arrive at some decision concerning the oriental question. One of the Important decisions was that no one would make any attempt to personally gain any advantage from the situation, and that an envoy would be sent to Abdul - Hamid, who would speak in the name of all. Hanotaux was certain that if tho sultan now dared once more to deliver the Armenians to the cruelty of the Kurds, if the fanatic Muss el mans once more made war upon the innocent, Europe, which now had Its eyee open, would constitute a council whese duty would be to reform the customs and the Institutions of the whole of Turkey. There are men who are born lucky as well as knowing. A few days after Hanotaux had made the declaration In the chamber, the sultan pushed to action by some unknown Impetus, sent to Paris a list of reforms which embrace the amendment of all governmental and administrative laws of his country. Thi3 declaration to the French sounded as If the sultan had personally responded to Hanotaux; and you may imagine the happiness of France to think - she was again playing an Important part in European diplomacy. Hanotaux's early life resembles much that of American men, who unconsciously prepare themselves for higher destinies and with the firm resolve that if they should ever occupy a place in the government they would elevate their country as well as themselves. Teaching others Is an effective way of teaching oneself, and how many self made men In America remember the class room in whicli they taught young Ideas how to shoot. About thirteen years ago Hanotaux had an Insignificant chair at the Sorbonne, In which he taught history with the meager salary of S30 a month. He was one of the most obscure teachers of the university. Three times a week, at about 5 In the afternoon, a poor, chilly, thinly clad fellow was seen Rue des Ecoles, carrying an enormous portfolio. It wa3 Hanoteux wending his way to the school without stopping in any of the Idling places, without ever casting a glance at the pretty etudiantes who elbowed him right and left. When once arrived at the Sorbonne he climbed the damp staircase to the top story, and there entered a room which looked more like an old attic than a school room. The new Sorbonne 13 naturally a great improvement upon the old, Hanotaux's was a narrow room, whose single window looked out upon the court. A moldy library, with moldy books, four chairs, three stools, two oil lamps, which smoked like two factory chimneys, were all the appointments that the university allowed In this class room. Without seeming to notice the small number of his auditors, Hanotaux began his lecture as if he delivered it before a full house. Here, he already showed a prodigious erudition; his style was clear, strong and remarkable for its precision. It was not the easy, wordy eloquence of ordinary lectures, and to say what he knew perfectly he did not need big words or loud gestures. To be Inattentive at these lectures was Impossible for he had the gift of making the most tangled questions of history simple, clear and interesting. The heart of the young man seemed full of the glorious events of the past, and ready to repeat them to a larger public if ever the occasion presented itself. When once the lesson was over; instead of taking a few minutes of recreation and talking nonsense with his pupils, as some of the professors of the Sorbonne often times do, Hanotaux, with his portfolio under his arm, left the room, rapidly went down the steps and always walked along the side of the houses as if in fear of occupying too much space. Oftentimes, after his work, he crossed the bridge and went to the office of the Republique Francaise, a paper In which Garn - betta sometimes deigned to print Hanotaux's articles. There Hanotaux met friends who brought him out of his obscurity. One evening Spuller and Jules Ferry made his personal acquaintance and at once became interested in him. This young diplomat seems universally gifted. While living in the Quartler Latin, perched up in the sixth story, in his attic room, he was already gathering the documents for his book, "Richelieu," which has revealed him one of the first writers of his time and which will doubtless open the doors of the Academie to him. Richelieu is doubtless Hanotaux's model in history and he doubtleis dreams to reinstate his country, and prepare the way to a renaissance In power as Richelieu prepared the brilliant, glorious reign of Louis XIV. It Is now nearly thirteen years since Miss Marie Van Zandt left the Opera Comique. Everyone, however, remembers that fatal night In which she was to sing the "Barbier de Seville" and was incapacitated with sudden illness. One of the singers of the Opera, who knew the part, took Marie Van Zandt's place, and the next morning the papers were full of a horrible story, which compelled her to send in her resignation. Whether the fact of which she was accused was true or not, her companions at the Comique made no attempt to exculpate her, for they all cordially disliked her. With her success she had become a very spoiled, fantastic young woman, and allowed herself to act without the least consideration of the politeness and attention due to surroundings, and, under the circumstances, when she fell there was no one who tendered a helping hand. Carvalho himself, rather fatigued with her whims and caprices, like the Roman emperors in the arena, lifted the two fingers, to complete the agony of the young singer. It Is natural that with that horrible experience she never was again herself on the stage, and that her success in foreign countries was not great. She had none in her own country. I think it was because her voice was found too small. Why did Carvalho re - engage her after so many yearB? The answer is very'simple. Ot all the artists he ever had she was the one who drew the fullest houses. A director has always a tender spot for artists who fill his pockets. I suppose, when she was In America, the people failed to see what had so long fascinated the Parisians. Yes, the Parisians are a queer public. Marie Van Zandt knew how to take hold of them. She has a great deal of the Rejane in her artistic temperament. In her acting. In her poses, in the expressions of her face she Is full of small surprises and fascinations. No one Is able to find them out unless one sees and hears the singer a great number of times. That Is why she was a success in a theater in which she sang three times a week and for a number of years. She is infinitely more refined than Rejane. I do not wish to compare her to that Parisian actress only in so far that she has the same fascination in other repertories and in other ways ot acting. Rejane has much of the gamin de Paris and Marie Van Zandt of the gamine. I have often wondered how the voice is not more paralyzed with fear. I do not see how the singer went through the ordeal to step again on the stage of the Comiaue. After she had begun to sing the first strains of "Lakme," i tue upera uiai - Lfeuues wrute lor ner, sne was warmly applauded. Her voice has lost its crystalline quality, but she sang to the satisfaction of those who were anxious to have her rehabilitated. Massenet is anxious for Van Zandt to create his new opera, "Cinderella." Let us hope that until then she will gain sufficient prestige to hold her own on a stage ou which thirteen years ago she was thought a small star of great magnitude. EMMA BULLET. QUESTIONS ANSWEBED. Correspondents should not feel disavpoinUii when their qvesLiontt are not answered mediately, as the information soliciUdfr quently requires considerable research. which ample. Hme should be allowed. Thi name and addre$s of the xoriter thovld a company every question Xotes "Anxious" TS'e have not obtained th name of any recitation book containinff "Mr Schmldt and the IN re Insurance." "t". S." It is not necessary to obtain a lffcensa !' run a naphtha launch and carry passengers in .T.imaica bay. If it was a steam launch a license v. - .iiitf be necessary. "A. M. F.' Mondays and Fridays are the pay days for admission to the Metropolitan museum of art. The natural history museum .is free to visitors on "Wednesday, Thursday. Friday andt Saturday and all lesal and public holidays, except Sundays, from 9 A. M. until half an hour before sunset. "A Reader" Any drugprist can furnish the information relating to the law Koverning the manufacture and sale of patent medicines. "V. n. !." The Fulton ferry carries the greatest number of passengers which cross tho East river on boats. "V. H, s.' We refer you to the fashion article in the Sunday Eagle for ail sorts' of information as to what woniun should wear and when. "Mrs. K. C." To obtain satisfactory and full Information rdatinff to positions in the post office you should communicate with Postmaster Sullivan. "T." Mme. M!ba did slni,' in "Lohengrin" two years apo this winter, at the Metropolitan, Opera nous. New York, but whether she appeared ia that opera at a Saturday matinee is doubtful. "J. D." Aneht the story about the "Darkest Night," in last Sunday's Eagle, the fcrtlowlntf letter has been received: llrooklyn, December 15, 1896. To the Editor of the Brooklyn Eagle: I notice in your paper of the 13th inst., undey hoad of "Questions Answered," a communication frum "J. v.," asking abvut the dark night of April T, 1845, the time when the (steamboat Swallow ran on Dope's Island, opposite Hudson. N, y. As I have been collecting matter relatlns: to American steamboats, J think I can throw a little light in the darkness through the testimony that was given at 'the inquest. Captain Squires swore thfvt the night was very dark, but could not Judge whether it was so dark as to make navigation un safe. Tho pllut, William l:urne;t, swore that he was at the wheel when the vessel struck, andi attributed 'the accident to the darkness of the night and the hiRh wind, and did not see the Island until he struck. The testimony of other employes on the vessel showed that the wind w.aa blowing a gale and that it was snowing very hard during the evening - The jury found that, ia their opinion, "the night was too dark for navigation and that due prudence required that the boat should have been brought to." I had & conversation some years ago with one of the officers on the vessel at the time regarding the conditions surrounding the vessel, and he said the opposition boats, the Express and the Rochester; were following them very closely Just previous to the unfortunate affair and that what contributed more than probable a great deal to the accident was the fact that the pilot, who had been to his supper, returned to the pilot house when but a short distance above the island, and, coming1 from the well lighted dining room to the Egyptian darkness of the pilot house before his eye - pight became reconciled to the extreme change, the vessel struck the island. That would explain why he did not see the island, as sworn to at the inquest. It was, from what I have heard, & wild and dark night on the river. So "J. D. must be right about the darkness of the night. J. H. MORRISON. '" - A widow has one - third life interest m the real estate and one - half the personal estate absolutely, after payment of debts, In the event of the husband dying intestate. To the Editor of the Brooklyn Dagle: Can you state who the woman was that received the first appointment by the board of education to the principalship of a grammar schxwl la this city? CJ. Answer Mrs. Jane Dunkley appears to have been the first woman put in charge of a grammar school In this city. The school was No. 9. When the school was erected in 1S6S it was on what was then part of the plaza of Prospect pork. It cost. Including land, $99,920.64, the largest amount which, up to that time, had been expended on the building of a public school. To school was organized on September IS, 1838, ? To the Editor of the Brooklyn Eagle: Can you put me in prsse?.ion of any account ot wh - at is called the "Lion sermon," which Is de. livered once a year In one of the churches In London. England? K. A. D. The annual "Lion sermon" which has Just been preached In the Church of St. Katharine Cree. Leadenhall street, London, has been preached annually in the same church for two hundred and fifty - one years. Its origin is due to one Sir John Gayer, lord mayor of London in 16 - iG, who, trav - ellnK In a wild part of Asia, far in advance of hla attendants, suddenly found himself alone and faca to face with a lion. Being a pious man. Sir John fell on hie knees and prayed God to protect him In his hour of need. The prayer was answered, for. on his rising. Sir John saw the animal walking away. Considering his escape miraculous, on hla return to London, Sir John set aside a. fund for distribution to the poor on each succeeding anniversary and a sermon be preached to (ell future generations how God heard his prayer' and delivered him from the mouth of the lion. Gayer left 200 to the church named. The sermon may be on any subject, as the will does not prescribe that. ' and the date of delivery is October 1C. The minister is to have fl; the clerk, 2s 6d: the sexton. Is, and a sum of S 16s 0d to be distributed among necessitous inhabitants. Hatton"s "New YIew of - London." 170S. has It that Gayer met the lion la question in Arabia. To the Editor of the Brooklyn Eagle: Will you please inform me the date - of the death of Frederick Douglass, and about thi' action of the state legislature in Xorth Caro - - ; Una regarding his memory? T. Ii. U. ' Answer Frederick Douglass died in Washington February 20. 1S93. On the following day the house of general assembly at Raleigh, N. ' C, adopted a resolution introduced by a negro, that the house adjourn In honor of Frederick Douglass, all the Democrats voting against it. M subsequent motion to adjourn in honor of Washington's birthday on the "2d inst. was Voted down, and a motion on a previous day, to adjourn In honor of General Robert E. Lee, had been voted down. The mover of the Douglas resolution was Representative Crews. According to the r.ews of the day, "Republicans and Fopo lists grew restless when the resolution iraa offered, and in the confusion another bill was reported by the clerk, but Mr. Crews insisted on the reading of his resolution and spoke to it briefly, referring to Douglass as the leader of his race and to the appropriateness of the adjournment to his memory. The fusionlsta seemed to be paralyzed. A viva voce vote wae put by the speaker and a division was called for. The fusionists came up almost under tho lash in a body to the number of 32, the Democrats voting 23 against it. These 53 were about all the members present, the other half of the house having gone to the Kewbern fair. Tb chair, in a subdued voice, announced the reso lution as carried." , To the Editor of the Brooklyn Eagle: - i There Is a poem descriptive of a model whb be comes weary of her posing while the artist is intent upon building his reputation. She ohanged position and deranges his study. Can you possible decide as to the poem and its uuthor? HART. ' Answer May Riley Smith is author of a poenj entitled "The Weary Model," which Is so much) like the description given by "Hart" that we think it is most probably the one alluded to. It 14 as follows: One day. an artist in his studio Upon his model draped a quaint old gown, ' Of some rare Indian stuff, wove long ago : Of countless mellow shades of gold and 1 i n i Sunshine and shadow, like the shining hair That Raphael made his sweet Madonnas wear. Silent and passive, as if carved of stone, Stood the young model in her loveliness; For now the tireless artist sought alone To paint the gt'ld - brown shimmer of the dress! - Xor must she stir the robe which flashed aBaft shone Hers to be patient and be wrought upon. At last the sinuous folds were all complete: Like a soft wave they bathed the pliant girL And, rippling from the shoulders to the feet. Fell on the carpet In a silken swirl; And then the painter on his canvas wrought. Trying to paint the language ot his thought. All day the magic colors softly flowed. Until It seemed as if some wondrous spell Possessed the hour, and like a radiance slowed In the fair lines on his canvas fell; And as the hours, down - shod, went slipping paat His dream of fame seemed blossoming at last. See how the witchery of that old dress Makes a soft mirror of the canvas, where, j The artist, with a lover's tenderness. Bestows faint glints of luster here and there Almost to his q - ulck fancy the folds stir With their old scents of rosemary and myrrh! Just then the weary girl forgetful grew And swept a hand along each flowing line, Alas, a hundred ripples straightway flew In answer to that little heedless sign! The glistening folds were changed from belt in hem, All the familiar grace gone out of them. The startled girl looked in the artist's race . And read the story of his loss and pain. She could not call the lines back to their place. Regret and sighing were alike In vain. Naught con revive an inspiration dead; Tho gulden vision had forever fled! What lesson. O my soul, is here for theo That chide th this poor model overmuch? . To stand henceforth more' still and patiently Beneath the fashioning of God's flne touch! For ah, what grace by the Great Artist r'nnneal lias been etfnceil 3y. thy impatient banal .
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