The Record from Hackensack, New Jersey • 36

WEDNESDAY. MARCH 7. 2001 F-2 THE RECORD Wine Beer Bordeaux weathers the tough times BUYOFTHEWEEK Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc 1999 $12 3 EE The sign of a serious bordeaux collector is a cellar stocked with great wines from off years. In the language of bordeaux, an off year is roughly any year that hasn't been described as the vintage of the decade. The last "vintage of the decade was 1995.

Lately, the buzz in bordeaux concerns the excellence of the 2000 harvest, which will be unveiled for the wine media at the end of March ROBERT WHITLEY WINE TALK New Zealand is not a country that comes to mind when winea are being discussed However, if any wine has a chance to bring New Zealand into view, it is sauvignon blanc Sauvignon blanc comes in two styles. When in the past, but is producing superb wines today. The '96 is stunning. The 1996 Chateau Phelan Segur ($35) has a beautiful nose, good backbone, and pretty plum and black-currant fruit It's from an underrated vintage and the price represents a bargain compared with other bordeaux of similar quality. The 1996 Chateau Latour Haut-Brion ($70) is a powerhouse from a very underrated vintage.

Cabernet sauvignon did extremely well in Bordeaux in 96, which worked to the benefit of this estate. The 1997 Lyneh-Bages ($65) might be too young to drink at this point but it should be appreciated for its complexity and balance. The 1997 Chateau Bel Air ($17) delivers a mouthful of ripe, fleshy fruit and extremely good value. The 1997 Chateau Phelan Segur ($32) is slightly herbal in the nose and more aggressively tannic than the delicious '96, but it's going to be beautiful to drink in a few years. Patience will be rewarded at a remarkably low price for good bordeaux.

Robert Whitley Is a nationally syndicated wine columnist and radio host Send questions to Wine Talk, Copley News Service, P.O. Box 120190, San Diego, Calif. 92112-0190. Whitley can be reached at www.whltleyonwine.com or by e-mail at Whit0nWineaol.com. The 1993 Cos tfEstournel ($80) has developed exceptional secondary aromas, but that's about its only concession to age.

This is a wine with plenty of tannic grip and a slightly bitter finish. The 1994 Chateau Margaux ($240) has excellent color and depth and is still not ready to drink. This was one of the powerhouse wines of 1994 and substantially better than Chateau Haut-Brion, the other first-growth I tasted from the same vintage. The 1994 Ormes de Pez ($40) is plump, juicy, and delicious right now. The 1994 Chateau Gloria ($40) shows vibrant, succulent fruit and also will serve the immediate need of a good bordeaux to drink tonight while waiting for the more tannic wines to come around.

The 1994 Chateau Talbot ($40) has a voluptuous mouth feel and soft tannins. Ready to go now, but probably will hang on a little better than the neighboring Gloria. The 1994 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre ($40) has more grip than most others in the 1994 vintage, but enough richness and fruit to suggest this wine will develop nicely with additional cellar time. The 1996 Cantenac Brown ($50) represents the greatest value for the price among these recommended wines. This chateau from the Margaux district has been spotty made in stainless steel tanks, the wine keeps its crisp, tart, citrus traits as in sancerre and pouilly-fume of France's Loire Valley.

If fermented or aged in oak barrels, it develops a soft, more melon-like flavor as in bordeaux. Villa Maria, and many New Zealand producers, aim for the first style. The 1999 Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc captures the natural acidity and lemon- JOHN FOY in Bordeaux, France. Those wines will not be available for at least two years. There is still plenty of excellent bordeaux from good years; the truly disastrous bordeaux vintages appear to be a thing of the past 'Maybe nature favors us more," said Paul Pontallier, managing director of Chateau Margaux, as he swirled a glass of margaux from the respectable 1994 vintage.

We have certainly improved the off vintages over the past 20 years." The vintage of 1994 was shaping up to be superb when rains at harvest dampened the spirits, and the vines. Margaux carefully selected grapes for its first-growth Chateau Margaux and went on to make a wine that was a star of the vintage, a wine that is very much alive and vibrant today. Though it turned out to be a good vintage overall, 1994 paled in comparison to the great harvest that followed in 1995. The 1997 vintage proved even more difficult than '94 despite the fact it was the only vintage of the Nineties in Bordeaux that didn't get rain at harvest "The maturation cycle wasn't good," said Thierry Gardinier of the Saint-Estephe estate Phelan Segur. "August was wet and muggy.

Instead of going for extract and power, we went for elegance." Bordeaux always produces some outstanding wine in an off year or less-than-great year. Chateau Latour has built an impeccable reputation for doing just that regardless of the overall verdict on the vintage. I recently tasted wines from the 1993, 1994, 1996, and 1997 vintages of bordeaux: Brewer puts a sweet twist on a medieval ale lime aroma and flavor of the grapes. It was the perfect accompaniment to a plate of chicken with mango and jasmine rice. This wine would also be delightful with shellfish and spicy Asian foods.

It is distributed by Hoffman Imports in Oregon home to Japan, this beer has real chocolate in it In fact, it is Rogue Shakespeare Stout's basic brew with the added sweetener. The glass-printed label features Rogue advocate Sebbie Buhler. Tony Forder is editor of Ale Street News, a bimonthly guide to specialty beers. Send questions to Cheers, in care of Ale Street News, Box 1125, Maywood, N.J. 07607; e-mail Tonyalestreetnews.com, or call (201) 368-9100.

Responses will appear In this biweekly column as space allows. Tom Baker is at it again in Ocean Township. Heavyweight Brewing adventurous brewer has re-brewed Two Druid's Gruit Ale. He has tinkered with the herbal recipe of this medieval ale, resulting in a milder, sweeter brew, and has packaged it in 12-ounce bottles. And, yes, you will see my name on the label as one of the "Two Druids" who helped formulate this beer.

Another new product that recently found its way into my refrigerator is Rogue Chocolate Stout Formerly exported from Rogue's Stores: Bottle King, most locations Home Liquors, most locations ShopRite Liquors, Caldwefl. Sparrow, Hoboken TONY F0RDER CHEERS John Foy publishes John Foy's Wine Odyssey, a subscription newsletter. Aunt Sammy radio chats Our--pritag' Wis- tVItl? 750 HI 7A 7S0 ML OdIcI OTP Chateau oiidWdu rl Homemade I A99 Souverain Barbaras lltV i CHARDONNAY SEMILLONCHARDONNAY AotKNtl I CHARDONNAY mfri err 'CABERNET SAUV. 14" ,99 SHIRAZCABERNET CABERNETMERLOT 10' 99 99 13 MERLOT Campobasso Mellow Q99 Red 16 Vi 1 1 SAUVIGNON A99 BLANC k'i Jaboulet rClsssIs Cellars I MERLOT CHARDONNAY A99 PaulMasson rJ paralleled'' Due Torrl PINOT GRIGIO MERLOT BUKOUNUT FROM THE COTES VALLEY 'CHABLIS ROsc DU RHONE 99 DU RHONE 99 WT. ZINFANDEL .5 1 fh I CHABLIS, BLUSH CHABUS, 1 tjh JLI BURGUNDY, ROSE, AAA I IfTJ MINE OR I WkZJi LSSmI RUBINO ROSSO W4L vSE "2799 -zr I 7 5L 1 nlm'irfon Luna cl Luna i By PATRICIA MACK FoodEcBor Is there anyone who does not know of Uncle Sam? Unimaginable.

The gentleman with the white goatee in the stars-and-stripes top hat is the personification of the United States. But what of his wife? He has one, and she was well-known to radio listeners in the 1920s. Her name was Aunt Sammy, the star of "Housekeeper's Chat," a radio show first broadcast on Oct. 4, 1926. Aunt Sammy was a character created by the U.S.

Department of Agriculture's Bureau of Home Economics and Radio Service, and at the height of Aunt Sammy's popularity, the shows were broadcast five days a week. Although the several actresses who portrayed Aunt Sammy would speak of many things sewing, furniture, appliances, family issues the highlight of the show was the menus. Many listeners wrote for copies of the recipes, and the bureau responded with mimeographed sheets. In 1927, the demand was so great that the bureau published a pamphlet of the most popular dishes. The demand for the pamphlet, after just one month of publication, was so great that "Aunt Sammy's Radio Recipes" was revised and enlarged three times between 1927 and 1931.

In 1932 it became the first cookbook published in Braille. The Great Depression did in Aunt Sammy. After 1934 the name Aunt Sammy was no longer used. The radio show became drier and more factual and was renamed "Homemaker Chats." In 1946, the show was discontinued. The Record's graphic artist Rich Rainey and his wife, Nancy, found a copy of a small, paperbound "Aunt Sammy's Radio Recipes" among the cookbooks collected by Rainey's mother.

It is a reprint, published in 1976 by the Consumer and Food Economics Institute Agricultural Research Services and was distributed "with best wishes" to the constituents of Rep. Harold "Cap" Hol-lenbeck, R-East Rutherford. The UBH CHABtIS I fU'hnniif -t CHABUS BURGUNDY Forest Glen CABERNET "MERLOT CHARDONNAY 'SHIRAZ OPM0T GRIGIO SANGIOVESE VTQQ WHIT CABERNET) MERLOT CHARDONNAY PINOT 6RIGI0 SANGI0VESEMEM.0T sox 13 An Vv VhwvvWI 1 JLZ-. BEAUJOLAIS I liL fJSi VILLAGES I UrzzzaY vii i ir.rt Raineys were kind enough to loan me the book. Although there are only 24 pages in this volume, it is a treasure.

"Aunt Sammy's Radio Recipes is a snapshot of an earlier age. Through the recipes, it tells us the preferences of American homes in the decade that preceded the Great Depression. It tells us about the time and energy it took for homemakers to prepare inexpensive but nourishing meals from products that were available in abundance from American farms. They state no pan or dish sizes, nor do they hint at the number of servings. At the time women were well-trained in the kitchen arts, and did not require such details.

Most of the recipes are dishes that are still loved in this country "baked cheese and macaroni," Harvard beets, cabbage and carrot salad (coleslaw), corn fritters but a few, if ever they were well-known, have not made it into the 21st century. For instance, Aunt Sammy offers a cookie recipe called "rocks," a side dish of fried apples and bacon, and another called scalloped onions and peanuts. Should they be forgotten? What do you think? ROCKS 1 cup butter 112cups light brown sugar 3 eggs, well-beaten ft teaspoon baking soda dissolved In a little hot water 1 teaspoon cinnamon 3 cups raisins, chopped 1 cup English walnut meats, chopped 2V4 cups flour teaspoon salt Cream the butter and sugar and add the eggs. Sift the dry ingredients, reserving some flour to roll the raisins and nuts. Mix all together.

Place by teaspoonf uls on a greased pan and bake In a hot oven (375 degrees) for 6 to 8 minutes. Peter Vctla CHAAOONNAY CABERNET WHITE MtfATOH FRIED APPLES AND BACON 6 tart apples (such as Mcintosh or Granny Smith) ft pound bacon 3 tablespoons sugar Peel and core apples. Cut into 1 -inch cubes. In a heavy 10-inch skillet, fry bacon until crisp. Remove bacon from pan and drain.

Pour off all but Vt cup bacon fat. Fill skillet with apple cubes. Sprinkle on sugar. (Apples fried this way require a little more sugar than ordinary fried apples.) Cover the pan. Cook slowly over low heat until tender.

Remove the cover; turn apples gently, so the pieces will keep their shape. Let them brown lightly. When they are almost transparent, place them on a hot platter, and surround them with the crisp bacon. SCALLOPED ONIONS AND PEANUTS 6 medium-sized onions ft cup peanuts, ground 1 cup thin white sauce made with 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon butter, and 1 cup milk Cook the skinned onions in boiling water until tender. Drain and slice with a sharp knife.

Place the onions In layers in a greased baking dish, cover each layer with the cream sauce and the peanuts, and continue making layers until all ingredients are used. Cover the top with buttered crumbs and bake in a moderate oven 350 degrees until golden brown. Serve from the baking dish. Share your family's treasured recipes. Send recipes to Our Heritage, Food Editor, The Record, 150 River Hackensack, N.J.

07601; or fax them to (201) 6464047, or e-mail macknorthjersey.com. Please include a daytime telephone number. MERLOT White Zlrrlandel ilO) ml A (In Corbet! Canyon moa CABERNET MERLOT Suiter Home CHARDONNAY Falling Star FROM ARGENTINA MERLOTMALBEC SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMIUON Berlnger 8'' Lewellyn CABERNET 'MERLOT CHARDONNAY I.SL 999 :99 1.5 BRUT OR Koroei extra dry Champagne I LP Inglenook 1 4 Hooper's Ports '99 ma Wild Vines au Cooks FoxHom 99 199 L7S0 "ml RUBY OR TAWNY DCMJMHJ 7 4f ZINFANOCL -WT. UN. 750 VermouthL 10" Champagne An ML I 1H in Im -Bewar's 1 Beam WIMB tfOBI VB) Am mi KB" Soar Mash 13 itBDai la wi biaubns jw sct isj Johnnie Walker Seagram's 0 Red Label Scotch 'M OQ f8'S 1 Bushmills JJT IRISH WHISKY 1.75 Li I JkJ4.

Crystal Jameson 750 199 IRISH WHISKY ML IQ fi-rflr-T-i! GIN I VODKA 80 Smirnofl Vodka 80" ruwers 750 it 99 LerOUX Polish Blackberry final cost n99 Brandy Ih.m IRISH WHISKY ML tjk 1QW Tanqueray Gin Bailey's Irish Cream 199 750 ML I Philadelphia 99 Wim KetelOne II 99 BLENDED WHISKEY 27 75 Frangellco 199 750 ML IO Glitter's Gin LU 99 Malorska Irish Mist 750 ML CapL Morgan SPICED RUM 1.75 I A99 bnnsuan oruuiere i it BRANDY 1.75 mS 17" A sweet, hot relish for all dishes YOOKA 80 AHYTYPEsH Miller 3 I Ml Ot. NX iTLS, BuOWBISIir Harp Icehouse! 2411-01. HR ITU. ANY TYPE: RSIller Budwelser Coors KIcheloD or i "A-MC. I4.f-0Z.

Mil CAN! Murehv'i Klllamev's red Relish with a real burst of flavor is just the ticket to liven up boring meals. Tart, sweet, spicy, fruity, it's all in this recipe. It keeps for weeks, and can be used as a condiment for just about anything. I love it on grilled marinated tofu or tempeh, or on a veggie burger. If you like, it can even be served with chicken or fish.

This recipe is from Mollie Kat-zen's "Still Life With 3 to 5 cloves garlic, minced 1 heaping tablespoon minced fresh ginger ft teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper cup cider vinegar 5 tablespoons brown sugar, packed Fill a small saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Core the tomato, and blanch it In boiling water for a slow count of Dnttk I'll' Klchaol Shea's Giiinessnour Kiman red nuiiiiij nwun pks. case Mlchelobi BLACK A TAN IOO -11 99 nA99 hr lm." in 'AMBER Canntaa rraam tin Icehouse l.T6-PK. I IW JAN WOLFF NATURALLY YOURS 1499 lsd High Lite ff Molson rind and all, and add to the saucepan. Add all remaining ingredients.

At this point, you may choose to let it stand for an hour or two, or you can proceed right away with the cooking. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Lower to a simmer, and cook gently, stirring occasionally for 45 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Puree in a blender or food processor.

Season to taste. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. It should keep for several weeks. Yield: 2 cups. Jan Wolff is a chef and cooking teacher who Uses natural ingredients and specializes in vegan and macrobiotic cuisine.

Questions and column ideas can be sent to Wolff In care of The Record's Food section, 150 River Hackensack, N.J. 07601, or faxed to (201)646-4047. L99 NR ITLS. Sam Adams Lager 2 12-01. NR BTLS.CANS BeCkS LIGHT OR DARK COLDEN, LIGHT.

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NR BTLS. 10" Menu Cookbook" (Ten Speed Press, 1988), which features Katzen's still-life artwork along with menus for 50 vegetarian meals. SWEET AND HOT FRUIT RELISH 1 medium tomato 2 medium tart apples 1 seedless orange 1 cup chopped onion 10. Remove, and peel off the skin under cold running water. Cut In half and squeeze out as many of the seeds as possible.

Chop what's left and place in a medium-sized, non-aluminum saucepan. Peel, core, and chop the apples. Add to the chopped tomato. Cut the orange into small pieces, ITLS. '2.

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