The Wisconsin Jewish Chronicle from Milwaukee, Wisconsin • Page 5

March 221940 THE WISCONSIN JEWISH CHRONICLE eature 1940 i'asliioii Scene arie Suit Modes Paris Presents Spring Styles Designed To Please Men High Crowns, Small Brims On New Hats High crowns with brim variants are featured for spring. One such i made of Madagascar cloth with narrow, side rolled brim. Another shape liked is the visor or kept type with high crown, but feminized with the brim section of flowers which are repeated in the border of the veiL Open tip crowns with small brims covered with lilies of the valley or mimosa are quoted br among the firm's best sellers. for an occasional identity-clip or flag print. Probably because life's graces are threatened, there's an instinct to take greater pains to preserve them.

Perhaps that's why there's so much grace in the new clothes. They have charm end competence. They are personal and feminine. They're a pleasure for a man-on-leave, or any man, to look at. Your silhouette will be narrower.

Inches are apt to be whittled from the width of your skirt. There ar still some very wide ones, but last year's enthusiasm for exaggeratedly swinging skirt is subsiding. Not that you'll walk uncomfortably. Many a skirt only seems slim. Patou and Molyneux tuck a pleat or a little fullness in back and step around a wom- Accent Now Placed On Skirt Fullness Skirt fullness just doesnt rtand stilL Over the rcsny years that skirts have been wide and they still are the fullness that makes thi width has never been static.

In the forward and barkwurd turns that take place in this movement of fullness, the kind that drifts to the front seems the mojit recurrent. And for the coming season, it is decidedly front fullness that Is the endorsement of designers, and significantly enough, by Paris designers, as well as our on- The first thing that strikes you as silhouette look new is the fact that making this spring's front fullness the fullness comes below the hipline either because there is elongated todk'e that ends at the hipline, or the skirt has a yoke below which the fullness appears. One always feels bound to account for changes like switching around fullness in skirts, and at this moment, because bucks of the newest of these skirts are flat, leading one to conclude that, having fullness in only oie half, the process of subtracting fullness from the silhouette is on its way. Another interpretation of present front fullness is its derivation from ipron styles that flitted in last season, if not to register as a big faction, at least to win friends and influence silhouette. iirTi-'HTriTprriiiT-yirH mini mm iiiim wmi mi niyyMnsii wwfw 1 1 1 mm wiwwn mmm mummmf 1 am 1 1 rn i i 1 ii" Mil ki imi-T- 1 Im i.

ini nun in an's inhibition to tight skirts. The Pockets Win Wide Fashion Acceptance This spring it's the town coat that's getting lingerie treatment for extra prettiness. White collar and cuffs, starched, fresh and flattering, that can be peeled off and laundered, tag the 1940 dress coat as so definitely dressy and so individual that even at firEt glance you can't mistake it for a midweight casual. Here's a fashion that's starting at the top of the topcoat brackets a no with such sponsorship and its own becoming qualities rhould have a big future in all the upper price ranges. The white collars they're using are of all sizes, many materials.

Pert little white piques are one extreme Borrowed from portrait fashions are wide collars of delicate candy box lace or crisp eyelet embro'dery- narrowest skirts in Paris are Schia-parelli's, and hers are practically pencils for d.y. So narrow are they that many have "Lastex" tops, and you step into them. There are fewer Scarlett O'Haras now in Paris at I night though nothing will per-j haps ever replace glamorous bouffants in the hearts of the young. Bloused Silhouette Favored Your silhouette may be bloused. Of course, your waist still stays small, a small waist looks smaller beneath a blouse, and hips look positively whittled.

Your suits, jacket or coat, may be bloused. And your dress may look like a separate blouse and skirt. Piguet likes to do that. Even your evening skirt may be bloused up in swags around the knees. Paris loves hats.

Paris loves pale hats. Little wreaths of pleated tulle STTOJAiaiTS i That stsrtrbed look, in a dark frock lit witli white pique, an eyelet pique blouse that zips on and off the skirt, and echoes of white on the brief bolero. 42S y. WISCONSIN AVE. ft I are worn away forward.

Little chip 1 PARIS has always been a city where clothes were considered a permissible, even an absorbing, topic of general conversation. Men discuss them quit as openly and as interestedly as the theatre or politics. Now after five months of war and uncertainty as to whether Paris would be able to go on producing fashions, the success of the Spring Collections is on every ton true. Even mobUized men want to know about the new clothes. Many of them at the front send back to the wives or sisters who are carrying on their work at home ideas for accessories, trimmings, jewels, bags.

The soldier husbands of Madame Model and Madame Suviane, the soldier brother of Mademoiselle Sehlumberger are only a few doing this long-distance creating. Life in Paris pivots around the permissionaire the soldier-on-leave. Even the very old messenger boy with loving admiration folds away in its bo the tulle dress that has just been photographed. Every one in Paris has a new appreciation for luxury, beauty, elegance. It isn't a superficial attitude, but a normal reaction of people who are willing to give ip everything luxurious, but not the taste for luxury.

Paris Rediscovered The handful of Americans who came for the Collections brought an international whiff of air to Paris for the few short weeks they were here. Alberts of Maxim's beamed to see his familiar, generous clients again. The visiting Americans rediscovered Maurice Chevalier, discovered La Mome Piaf and her haunting songs, and knew after two days that the Roi Gourmet was the favorite bistro of the moment. The couturiers small houses as well as large were staggered, unbelievingly, ecstatic over the size of orders placed. The mysterious, shy Mr.

Balenciaga came out from obscurity to entertain the visiting Americans. Captain Molyneux -elusive and rarely seen appeared at cocktail parties and offered to show his superb collection of paintings to any one interested. There was a feeling of friendliness, almost conspiracy, between couturiers and their clients both of whom have overcome colossal difficulties to arrive at this successful The small group of Americans helped enormously to revitalize the French fashion industry. Modistes, who had been struggling for months to produce a few hats for vague, faraway customers, suddenly found themselves inspired to do ten new hats a day. One buyer went away carrying a last minute hat-box containing Suzy's ravishing geranium hat, saying "I will never sell the original, I want to keep it around like a painting." Francois Hugo, the jewel designer, suddenly found every one wanted his huge aquamarine, topaz, or sanphire solitaire earings, and all the jewellery hand-bag, glove, handkerchief makers woke up overnight to find enthusiastic customers who rejoiced that miracles still come out of Paris.

The great news in clothes is that they are lovely, pleasing to men. and have no period throwbacks. There are no arbitrary rules for smartness. A dress is a success because it is becoming and beautifully cut not because it belongs to certain circumscribed schools. The only definite trend is towards narrowing skirts probably because fabrics have soared in price and because exaggeration is frowTJcd on.

But let's see how you will really lok in the spring picture. Emphatically, there'll be no hint of militarism in your clothes. The dressmakers turned their backs flat on that save straw bonnets worn way back. We call them the Fore and Aft hats. One of Reboux's newest shapes is a stiff pill-box that is softened with some kind of nonsense in the back.

Sailors nnd turbans are ubiquitous. And veils still froth about. For dinner, Sehiapaielli makes skull-caps of jet, with loops of tule or ostrich fronds that finger the air. Tulle gloves with them. For the back of the head, Molyneaux winds I turbans of tulle like a spun-sugar des-j sert.

Paquin shrouds a head in a white lace mantilla, and Balanciaga (tops cloud i of tulle with big, black paillette spheres. turban or sailor, spanking white gloves, a touch of lingerie on a hat. The couturiers had in mind two kinds of women when they made evening clothes. Women of war-time Paris or London. And women in America, or elsewhere, who still dress for a normally gay life.

Thinking of the subdued night-life of Paris, Schiaparelli made evening dresses with convertible bodices. For instance, a black crepe dress with a guimpe of sleeping-blue stain studded with jet. In the wink of an eye, the guimpe comes off and leaves you with a low decolletage. But Paris won't be the nly city that sees it. It is perfect for New York, too.

Most of the dinner-suits or dresses lean to narrow lines. If they're not actually narrow, they give the illusion of slenderness by falling fluently. Sometimes, Paquin puts flesh chiffon yokes or bodices on black lace dresses. Often, bright boleros or jackets top dark dresses. And, everywhere, jet lifts with its restrained shimmer the unrelieved sobriety of dark suits.

Jet beads shimmer on collars, boleros, bandings, bags and hats. For the first time in years, you'll see no references to other periods in evening clothes. You won't be Greek or gipsy or Empire or Infanta you'll be yourself. You can wear the Chances are the Jacket of your suit will be fairly long. You might fasten it with Schiaparelli's long gold chain that ends in a pencil.

You might button it with big jet buttons. Let it be navy-blue, if you like, per mine into an Ascot, makes a necktie of martens with five tails over the chest, like the beard of the prophet. Not in ages has thei been inventiveness in printed clothes. The prints themselves are charmers small, neat designs, dots, apples, penguins, planes, names. The dresses are dressmaking accomplishments.

You might have Molyneaux's bloused-back coat and dress the two cut identically alike of a black-and-white print. You might have Mar-celle Dormoy's two-piece dress with red and white apples on an apple-green background. You might have Alix's dotted cerise tie-silk jacket worn with a black skirt. New Houses Show Wares And from two new young houses, both offsprings of Vionnet, are several enchanting models. For Vionnet has closed the doors of her famous house on the Avenue Montaigne and has retired to the country to work in her beautiful garden.

From Mad Car-pentier, trained in the Vionnet tradition a beige-and-whitc dotted surah dress with a sleight-of-hand scarf. And from Marcelle Chaumont, little dresses in which you can recognize some of the master Vionnet's guidance. For instance, a soft biue-and-white checked surah with an intricately cut bias bodice and a skirt that hangs from a pointed hip-yoke. These pointed hip-yokes are worth watching. You might carry Lelong's hobo bag hanging on a covered walking-stick.

You might wear Schiaparelli's hand-knitted linen stockings in sleeping-blue, pirate-red, or white and Mary Jane patent leather slippers. She shows them with town, sports, and beach clothes. You might carry her red leather heart bag and a quiver of arrows that conceals a lip-stick. You might wrap around your shoul haps Creed's navy-blue with white buttons. It might be Lelong's bright blue jacket and grey-and-blue striped skirt.

And her are two other nice contrasts: Lelong's tobacco jersey and grey flannel skirt; Bruyere's tomato-red jacket and grey skirt. Paris it I i -G Ol A seems to be shying away from black but there are hordes of greys and beiges and much red, white and blue. Light Top-Coats Return i stiff, proud satins of Balanciaga Light top-coats ovit dark dresses are makinr return pertormance, FASTER 1 Consider Lalantlaga's pale biscuit the loveliest are in two colors, xou can wear tulles, ethereal pink ones or seductive black ones, such as Lavin's black tulle with a faille bodice, or Worth's black tulle banded in white lace. You can wear jersey Alix's classic white draped jerseys or Le- wool coat over a black dress. Or Dormov's loose coat of light grey rough tweed over a darker grey jer I long's pale absint.ht-green one so tlosX St pale it is nearly white.

lou can wear lace one of Balanciaga's; Pa- 25 NCHb sprisf $trt prMnt spfisKHy Ertr otm ittu sf o(t thr crtee the! decs wese'en fo yr fetm. hf with id reven 4 tulh ef kH piqvs. quin's sophisticated black and white lace combinations. You can wear chiffon dreamy and drifting. You can wear cotton you couldnt look more 1940 than in Balareiaga's black Otbf DriM frem I2.9S Sccese Peer sey dress.

A bloused bodice is a new trick on Molyneaux's navy-blue coat with a line of white pique like a white curb down the straight-away of the front. YouH be glad to know that those endearing, loose, swinging jackets are again in Molyneaux's collection. Around the neck of your jacket or coat, twist or tie. as you would a favorite silk scarf, tone of the new neck-pieces a long rope of kolinsky, made by Bruyere a big bow of silver fox on the shoulder, as Schia-parelli suggests. Bruyere flips er- ders Maggy Rouff's little shawl with silk fringe.

And you mos certainly will want White Touches somewhere an angelic lingerie blouse, a pique muslin bodice and white cross-barred I muslin skirt. ill mi mi MsfeP QQ75 Our new Humming buy Thrilling news for your faster coat the Bird Davencrepes are keyed to spring's smartest fashions with a correct color for every costume. An abundance of HIDDEN VALUES makes them ever so practical too. blouscd-back coat after Molyneux. Charmingly HOIIII fjumminq Bird young and wearable for you our many new coats possess that good taste you expect in "a coat from Hixons." Others from $19.95.

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