The Record from Hackensack, New Jersey • 83

frugal 4t'T995 The Fireplace At The Fireplace in Paramus CREATIVE CULINARY concepts inc. (914)229-6260 include roast beef, turkey, Taylor ham, frankfurters, fish platters, and tuna salad. You can get a green salad here, but it's a mixed blessing at best: bright, crisp lettuce but poor-quality tomatoes. Italian fast-food specialties such as pizza by the slice, calzones, and parmigiana are also popular. Pizza slices are $1.50 and come with toppings options such as sausage, mushroom, pepperoni, meatballs, and anchovies.

The plain slice I sampled was a little stingy with cheese, but otherwise fine. A chicken parmigiana sandwich disappointed. There was a commendable amalgam of cheese and sauce, but the chicken itself was a little rubbery. IH stick to The Fireplace's fried. Pre-made desserts are not very worthwhile.

The ho-hum apple pie tasted like it came out of a box. Personally, 111 pass on the pie and use the calorie savings on another piece of fried chicken. By KEN DAVIDOFF Restaurant Reviewer It may be politically incorrect to eat fried chicken nowadays. Way too fattening, the conventional wisdom goes. Better buy rotisserie.

There sure are enough places that sell it. Not for me, thank you. There are still a few fried-chicken vestiges to be found in the labyrinth of Wealthy" fast-food options. And The Fireplace, located on Route 17 north in Paramus, ranks among the best of these fossils. The Fireplace, not at all a fancy eatery, is logically divided into three sections, all offering fast-food options: burgers, steak, and other sandwiches; chicken; and pizza.

While burgers and steak sandwiches rank highest in sales, it is the fried chicken that stands out in quality. For $4 plus tax, customers can purchase a three-piece dinner a breast and two wings, or two thighs and a wing. The meal also includes a biscuit and a choice of fries or coleslaw. The chicken is perfection: crispy Seagram buying The Four Seasons 718 Route 17 north Paramus 444-2362 (chicken), 444-3434 (pizza) Fare: Chicken, burgers, steak sandwiches, pizza. Prices: $1 .60 for a burger, $5.75 for three pieces of chicken.

Credit cards: No. Delivery: No. Days closed: None. Liquorwine available: No. Facilities for the disabled: Yes, but bathrooms not accessible.

Atmosphere: Casual, comfortable, tables available. Rated by The Record: Aug. 4, 1995 Restaurants are rated on the quality of their food, atmosphere, service, and value. Half-stars are given when a restaurant surpasses a star level in food, service, or ambience. Reviewers make at least two anonymous visits to a restaurant, and The Record always pays the tab.

Poor Fair )) Good Excellent Outstanding Margittai and Paul Kovi; it will continue to be operated by two minority owners, Alex von Bidder and Julian NiccolinL The restaurant was a favorite spot of Samuel Bronfman, the founder of Joseph E. Seagram Sons and the grandfather of current Seagram boss Edgar Bronfman Jr. It opened in 1959. wr 1 Wtrvhrw Vwi ll Ibid bit Mvtrat anything." The Seagram Building, designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, is a seminal modernist skyscraper, the restaurant, with its high ceilings and simple decor, picks up on the building's cool, spare design. Seagram will buy a majority interest in the restaurant from Tom The Associated Press It ain't MCA-Universal, but Seagram has made another high-profile purchase: The Four Seasons restaurant.

The restaurant, which is located in the ground floor of the Seagram Building, is popular with celebrity lunchers such as Henry Kissinger, publisher Si skin, and plenty of juicy, tasty meat. Never had The other meal components were less than inspiring; The biscuit, merely satisfactory; the fries, thick but dry. The slaw, well get the fries. Perfection in technique doesnt mean that The Fireplace is oblivious to the times. Youll find good rotisserie chicken here as well, along with hot wings and chicken nuggets.

The prices are a bargain for the individual diner or for families. A multitude of affordable selections are available. For instance, chicken dinners come with eight pieces for $8.39, 10 for $9.79, 16 for $14.79. The Fireplace's cheeseburgers ($1.95) have a nice char-grilled taste and are a real bargain to boot, but nothing, nothing outshines the chicken. Other sandwich-menu items Newhouse, entertainment mogul Barry Diller, and its designer, Philip Johnson.

"Our building is an historic landmark, and the restaurant is an historic landmark, and we wanted to preserve the integrity of our building," Cheryl Burnett, a Seagram spokeswoman, said recently. "We dont plan to change Safest! ay SOUPY SALES ExckJtiv Ana Engogemontt I JOHN pin cm tYoMGoNoVl if 5 fhowmTV itV llmtt TUmm, SADDLK BIOOX Antiques Gfestiva ANNUAL OUTDOOR TAILGATE STYLE BENEFIT LAFAYETTE RECREATION Aug. 5 6, 1995 afayette K). Tow Hall Park Fidd ooRi. 15.

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