Daily News from New York, New York on August 24, 1994 · 500
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Daily News from New York, New York · 500

New York, New York
Issue Date:
Wednesday, August 24, 1994
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food. t. 3 WHAT'S COOKING ON TV TODAY 2.00 p.m. (TLC) Nathalie Dupree's Matters of Taste. Cheese boxes; one pot lamb; wild nee; orange salad. 8:30 p.m. (TLC) Van Can Cook. Cantonese barbecued porH ribs; green onion pancakes'; seaweed rice rolls. THURSDAY 11:30 a.m. (OSC) Graham Kerr. Crempog, pancakes layered with poached apples. 1:00 p.m. (13) Taste of Louisiana. Seafood and broccoli lasagna; string bean bundles; stuffed artichoke hearts. 8:30 p.m. (SO) Eating Wall. Low fat recipes; no cholesterol chocolate cake. F K I D A Y Noon (TLC) Yvonne's Cookbook. Soups as entrees: hearty tortellini veg etable; beef and onion; chunky ham and corn chowder. 12:30 p.m. (TNN) Cookln' U.S.A. Cheesy scallops and rice, 1:30 p.m. (21) Gourmat Cooking. Chinese lemon shrimp; chow mem noodles; fried fruit filled won ton. S:00 p.m. (TLC) Cooking With tha Ur. ban Peasant. Scrambled eggs with couscous; baked potato with egg. SATURDAY 11:00 a.m. (TLC) Death by Chocolate. Deep dark chocolate fudge cookies; chocolate dipped hokey pokey cookies; white chocolate cookies. ) 1:00 p.m. (21) Frugal Gourmat. Herb recipes: pesto spiked tomato sauce; garlic soup. () (CC) 4:00 p.m. (SO) Look A Cook. "Creative Appetiers." S I! N D A Y 10:00 a.m. (CNN) On tha Menu. A look at a rare genetic disease called Prader Willie syndrome where children cannot control their eating. () 1:30 p.m. (21) Today' Gourmat. Striped bass poached in court bouillon; grilled veal chops; vegetable burgers. 3:00 p.m. (SO) Grilling. Smoked turkey: venison chili; sweet potato pie; grilling salad. 7 00 p.m. (13) Croat Chefs, Great Bar-B-Q. Cajun pork roast; ribs; chicken wings; barbecued spaghetti and bologna. !I () N D A Y 10:30 a.m. (TVFN) Food In a Flash. Peanutty bars; ginger chicken; cray carrots. 12:30 p.m. (13) Mexican Kitchen. Cheese, chicken, beef and shrimp enchiladas topped with cheese or beef. () 8:00 p.m. (TLC) Cooking With the Ur. ban Peasant. Indonesian salad gado gaclo and peanut butter. T I J K S D A Y 11:00 a.m. (TVFN) Eating Ught. Red onion and orange salad; onion tart on Syrian bread; French onion soup with low fat fondue. 4:00 p.m. (OSC) Low Cholesterol Gourmet. A top chef discusses the differences among breads and sand wich meats. () Program repeat; check Utter listings. asiago crusty semolina rounds ($2.50) and glistening green and black olives ($4 to $6pound). Manganaro Foods, 488 Ninth Aw. (between 37th and 38th Sts.), 563-5331 This 101-year-old salumeria has charm in every creaky corner: an antique gram scale, molded tin ceilings, an upstairs dining area with gingham tablecloths and mismatched chairs and a silver-haired owner with five pretty daughters and "an incredible hand on the slicing machine." A one-time supplier for snazzy city restaurants, including the Four Seasons and the Qyster Bar, Man-ganaro's now caters to gourmands who prefer to saute, broil or reheat at home. There's traditional country fare: smoked mozzarella ($6.25'pound), pro-sciutto ($10.9.1 to $19 93 ..'pound, imported canned tomatoes ($2 to $2.75) and pig-noli cookies ($12pound). And also more fancy, hard to-find items: truffle tortellini ($9 959-ounce bag), porcini mushroom pasta ($12.95,'pound) and lemon, garlic-and chili and rosemary-and-bay-leaf infused olive oils ($6.95 to $3.95). Giovanni EsposHo & Sons Meat Shop, 5(H) Nrnth Are. (at 38th St.), 279-3298 In the early years, this used to be a pork-only joint chops, sausage, ham and knuckles. Sixty years later, this big butcher's store stocks items for the neighborhood's new transplants: Korean patrons (short ribs of beef, $2.79,'pound), African natives (goat shanks, $2.98 pound), Spaniards and Latinos (oxtail, $1.9&pound) and multimillion-dollar-loft dwellers (filet mignon, $7.98 apiece). Game birds, including quail, squab, pheasant and partridge; range from about $3 to $5 per pound. Especially tasty is Esposito's fresh sausage (cheese and parsley, sweet with fennel, garlic, Cajun and French, $2.59 to $3 09pound). Vinnie's Market, 524 Ninth Ave. (at 3!th St.), 51)3-0545 This Italian-owned produce market looks a little dusty and dreary from the outside, but it's a good source for exotic fruits and veggies. Last week, shoppers could pick through bins of Italian squash (19 cents pound), baby egnplants (79 t ents pound), cham-pagne grapes ($2.99 pound), cac tus pears (50 cents each), green gage plums ($1.39 pound) and figs (50 cents each). Central Fish, 527 Nititli Are. (between 30th and 40th Sts.), 279- m 2317 Sawdust on the floor, plastic salmon on the wall and the pungent odor of sea salt seeping out the door Central Fish feels more like a Maine lobster shack than a busy mid-town retail store. When the store opened in 1936. it catered mostly ' to Mediterraneans missing their native fare. Now, with 50 varieties offish for sale, it attracts both trendy urbanites and Old World types. Last week, dozens of fresh finned animals were splayed on ice: salmon steaks ($5.49 pound), tuna ($5.99 pound), baby shark ($1 49 pound), red snapper ($3.99 pound) and bonita ($1.79 pound). Ninth Ave. Cheese Market, 525 Ninth Aw. (between 39th and 4()th Sts.) and 615 Ninth Are. (between 44th and 45th Sts.), 397-4700 Both the cramped little 39th St. shop and the newer, airier uptown branch have cheese selections to match Zabar's or Fairway. Among this week's fresh, creamy items: jalapeno jack ($3.99pound). feta ($3 .99pound), boursin ($3.99pound), Bel Paese ($5.99pound) and Parmesan reggiano ($7.99pound). Shop here, as well, for spices, teas, dried fruit, flavored oils. Middle Eastern bread spreads and 70 kinds of coffee ($4.99pound). , " & ' Hie owner has 'an incredible hand on the slicing machine THE BIG CHEESE: Sal Dell'Orto of Manganaro Monika Graff Foods, caters to the gourmet crowd with the help of his five daughters. Pictured here are Seline, center, and Linda. International Groceries & Meat Market, 529 Ninth Am. (between 39th and 40th Sts.), 279-5514, and International Food, 54.3 Ninth Ave. (at 40th St.), 279-1000 Two gregarious Greek brothers own these spice and grain stores, where shoppers will find a wide" range of exotic items, from pigeon feed to poppy seeds to dozens of dried herbs (chamomile, anise, celery flakes, chicory). Olives ($2 20-$3.50'pound), halvah ($2.99-$3 99 pound) and feta cheeses ($3 29 $4.85 pound) fill display cases. Burlap sacks spill over with nuts (filberts, pecans, peanuts and chestnuts, $2-$6 pound) flours (rice, rye, soy, arrowroot, whole wheat, chickpea, high-gluten, from 69 cents'pound to 99 centspound) and spices (cayenne, coriander, cumin, turmeric, about $3 pound) in rich autumnal colors. The uptown store also sells Greek dips (taramosalata. hummus, baba ghanouj and cucumber dip all at $4, pound) and homemade yogurt ($4 pound). Sea Breeze Fish Market, 541 Ninth Ave. (at 40th St.), 563-7537 Sea Breeze offers the same quality and variety as Central, at roughly the same prices. Last week, the fresh scrod filet ($2.99 pound) and the red snapper ($4.99, pound) looked especially fresh. Live lobster (three for $12.99), which swim in two tanks near the door, and soft-shell Maryland crabs on ice (75 cents each) lure seafood-lovers, too. Big Apple Meat Market, 575 Ninth Ave. (between 41st and 42d Sts.), 563-2555 A warehouse-style butcher shop, supermarket and cold cut counter in one. The walk-in meat vaults, with bargain prices on family-size cuts, are the store's most popular spot. You'll find every meat shank and innard you can imagine: lamb chops ($2.89pound), goat legs ($1.58pound), whole fresh hams (98 centspound), beef kidneys (98 centspound), filet mignon ($4.58pound) and chicken breasts ($1.48pound). Meat is custom-cut all day long at no additional charge. Empire Coffee & Tea Co., 592 Ninth Ave. (between 42d and 43d Sts.), 596-1717 Even if you've sworn off java, a whiff of this place could whet your appetite again. Burlap sacks overflow with shiny brown beans. Empire sells 90 kinds of coffee, including three grades of Colombian and two grades each from Guatemala and Brazil. Some of the more exotic coffees include Tanzan-ian Peaberry ($8.99pound) and Organic Mexican Puma ($7.49pound). At the 85-year-old emporium, teas are equally plentiful. Empire's 75 blends ($10-19.95pound) include mango, almond, sassafras, China black and pinhead gunpowder greea Poseidon Bakery, 629 Ninth Ave. (between 44th and 45th Sts.), 757- 61 73 For almost 75 years, the Fable family has been hand-rolling phyllo dough on cloth-covered tables. From the paper-thin dough (which home bakers can buy for $4.50pound), these native Greeks make delicious, aromatic hors d'oeuvres and desserts: baklava ($1.30 each), six kinds of fruit and cheese-filled strudels ($6.50pound), bird's nest pastries ($1.45 each) and spinach pies ($2 each). The cheery bakers also sell koulorogia, a cinnamon and sesame cookie, and kourambiedes, a melt-in-your-mouth sugared almond Cookie flboth $7 95 pound). Bruno Ravioli, 653 Ninth Ave. (between 45th and 46th Sts.), 246-8456 The Bruno owners call themselves the Ravioli Kings. They also whip up some tasty tortellini, linguine, gnocchi, taglierini and homemade pasta sauces. Popular new items include low-fat fresh pastas (made without eggs, filled with pumpkin or mushroom paste and packaged with nutritional calculations), dried pasta in the shape of baseballs, mitts and soccer balls and many unique noodle and sauce flavors. Boxes of 50 ravioli range from $3.69 to $6.99, pints of sauce from $2.99 to $3.99 and fresh noodles from $2.89 to $4.99 per pound. Amy's Bread, 672 Ninth Ave. (between 46th and 47th Sts.), 977-3856 A newcomer to Ninth Ave., this tiny, quaint bake- shop could just as easily be found on some New England village green. Employes say the most popular items are their country sourdough loaves ($1.75) and a semolina bread with golden raisins and fennel ($3.75). Carbo-loaders with sweet teeth can sink into chocolate rolls ($1 each), chocolate hazelnut biscotti (60 cents each) and fudge brownies ($1.95). Amy's bread twists come in many flavors, including black olive, rosemary, Parmesan cheese, multi-grain and whole-wheat walnut (60 cents-75 cents each). ..If i;i -- i t i i n i ' . .V- .r t . .4 -t V it f m

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