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New-York Tribune from New York, New York • 33

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New-York Tribunei
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New York, New York
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33
Extracted Article Text (OCR)

FABXSLAjf HAIE OBSTAJCENTS. Some Jet for the Summer Coiffure. latest Parisian fad for hair enuueent is Jet goods, of a pair of short vide combs, half circle -back combs to match, medium Used baxrettea and a smaller A. BIMONBON. one for the naps of Use neck to hold the unruly little neclc curls In their proper place.

It seems odd to speak of ornaments first before the coiffure, bat the effect of these ornaments is so striking- and beautiful that 7 wcim to deserve first attention. At to the coiffure, Blmonson's Marie Antoinette Brisee la amenc the leading styles. Made of an elegant hair in beautiful deep waves, the left side Is. brisee (broken), or. as one would say.

parted. By doing; this the centre of the pompadour part droops gracefully on to the centre of the forehead, giving a most cnarming effect. Of course, the hair must be natural and wavy and at least twenty to twenty-two Inches long, so as to allow the ends to meet the back coiffure. The back coiffure consists of Slmonson's famous Knot, composed of two long strands of natural wavy hair, with a heavy puff or curl on the end. These two strands of hair are joined together, and then knotted up in the fashion of a sailor's knot.

It is the most simple way of arranging the hair, and yet it gives to the head a perfect contour. The variety of hair ornaments of exquisite and exceedingly rich designs shown by Mr. eimor.sor.. whose shop is at No. 9SS Broadway, is simply bewildering, and no doubt they will be a leading- feature for the spring -id summer coiffure.

THAT CHIC SEIETWAIST. Modeli and Materials Fashionable This Season. In nothing more quickly than in "chicness" in the fchlirtwalst line does a woman show whether she is quite up to date. The difference between this year's out- JAMES M'CUTCHEON CO. line and last year's may not De of startling extent, but it Is Just the little thing that those who really know Instantly notice.

One cf the most fetching models among the 1903 waists is a MeCutcheon (exclusive) design (James MeCntehecn A No. 14 West and is shown both in 'wash and silk materials. It a distinctly COIFFURES AFFECTED BY SMART WOMEN AND CREATED Bi. A. SIMONSON tailor made KTpiSftSn mercernow In vogue.

A plain sleeves with SSSThS. "-S? attractive mode. front or. eachsWe of neces- ass's iifyiiSill SS given particular attention. RICH AKD COSTLY LACES.

Coats and Gowns of Exquisite Designs- Smart Millinery. Perhaps nowhere elae in the city can be found web an assortment of fine and costly laces a. at Enrich Brothers. Slxth-ave. and Twenty-thlrd-st.

For years they have EH RICH BROTHERS, made a specialty of these fine fabrics, and their stock covers everything desirable. This season their lace coats and lackets are really marvels of beautiful workmanship. One of the most effective is black point Arab, over white liberty. Others of the Paraguay and white point Arab are combined with butcher's linen, liberty or panne velvet. Solid point Arab is embroidered In orange and blue chenille in grape pattern, and Is one of the most effective things of the season.

Combinations of black and cream, or ecru with white outline, are much in vogue in lace coats and gowns Exquisite cluny and point marquise gowns are here shown also. In oedallions. insertions and the small fine laces so charming with summer fabrics Enrich Brothers have an unrivalled assort- In the new weave of silk now shown at this the cloth of variety in ha- is produced by a difference in the process. Both warp and woof are of silk, but one is of the light, fine Italian thread, while the other Is from the Tussah or wild Indian cocoon. The length of Time which are boiled, too.

produces that difference in the sheen of the fabrics. After if woven it is boiled from ten to thirty hours, the latter giving a very light golden tone. The millinery display this season at Enrich is really a notable one. The importations are from the best houses known to the world of fashion, and the effect of the department as a whole Is a Perfect picture, a aymphonv of rich coloring, and Well worth a visit on this account alone. In suits and wraps the models this year are far above the average chic, natty and is also the with the fine dress waists in de Paris and other lightweight REAL LACE FOB ADOBNMEST OF SUMMER FROCKS.

AT VANHNE'S. LATEST NOVELTIES IN HATS. DESIGNED BY HENRY W. BENDEL, OF BENDEL'S, IMPORTER, NO. 67 EAST NEW-YORK.

FURS FOR SEASIDE AND MOUNTAIN. Their Popularity Great This Year Now Is Renovation Time. The "fur season," it teems, has numerous phases. An important one now dawning is that of storage and especial care, which warm weather makes absolutely necessary for the C. SHAYNE.

proper keeping of fine furs. Aiso, if there is any repair or alteration necessary. Just now, rather than next November, when there is a great rush In every department of the trade, is the time to have it attended to. majority of women, unfortunately," said C. C.

Shayne (Nos. 124 and 126 West Forty-eecond- wholesale and retai! importer and manufacturer of furs), "wait antii cold weather compels them to get out their furs again befors they think of having them attended to. Then they want a good week's work accomplished in one afternoon. Not only one woman wants this, but a hundred or two of them, and you can imagine the outcome. Now.

there is ample time to give each piece every attention, and it really Is a wonder that women in geuerai don't realise the fact, rather than wait LA QRECQUE BUST SUPPORTING CORSET, AT VAX ORDEN CORSET COMPANY'S. until their furs arc one in thousands that must be turned out in rush lots. "Even so late in the season there is a steady sale of boas and neck pieces. Furs do not 'wilt' at the seaside, and are especially serviceable the summer through- in the mountains. They are more in vogue this season than ever before.

In the sketch here shown the set worth fc.oOO is of tne finest sable from Yukutsk district. There are eight skins in the scarf and ten in the muff. Both are ermine lined. The muff carries nine tails, eipht jjaws and two exquisitely mounted heads and tne skins of which It is composed are diagonally set in. so that the two rich tones of browc proouce a unique and beautiful effect." NEW-YOKK DAILY TRIBUNE.

SUISTDAY, MARCH 29. 1903. BECOMING STYLE OF COIFFURE. More Attention Given to the Hair This Season Than Ever Before. Many a really pretty faca is spoiled by an unbeplaids coming style of coiffure.

One geta into ruts, too, in such things, If one does not keep in touch with the constantly changing styles. A L. SHAW, little attention paid to this detail of one's appearance will make more difference In the whole than any other one thing. Among the many styles of low coiffures now in vogue, some of the ir.es ellective and artistic are those designed by L. Shaw, No.

54 West Fourteenth-Bt. Elaborate dressinj. where the hair Is intertwined with ribbon or roped with pearls, coral, eta as well as the simpler arrangements, are hero seen at their best. A visit to the delightfully arrar.ged hairdreasing and manicure parlors of this establishment Is well worth while. At this time, when men as well as women are everywhere complaining of inadequate suits of hair, it Is a comfort to know that these can be BUDplled In part or entirely, by the nnept natural hair both smooth and curled.

The Shaw wigs half wigs, wavy arwitchee and toupees are designed and manufactured with the utmost care and hdellty to nature. They are in conceivable variety, including the many shades of gray hair usually so difficult to match. Being among the largest direct importere in the United States, however tne enormous quantity of extra quality human hair which this house constantly carries enables it to match without delay any shade, no mater how rare. Man orders, either for hair goods, hair tonics or cosmetics are given particular attention, and a catalogue 13 sent free upon application. MADE TO ORDER CLOTHING.

Where Purse and Taste May Alike Be Satisfied. The ready to wear clothing of the present day, despite Its superiority, its correctness of style and 1U moderate sost, will never take the place of the made to order clothing, and MARXARNHEIM. nothing will lure thousands of men away from their tailors. The tailor knows the likes and dislikes of bis customer; he knows his peculiarities of build; where his coat needs padding, where he wants his pockets, and many little things that the ready to wear clothes man could not know. It is worth a little more on each suit for these men to know that the garments were made for them, and no matter how ready made goods improve they will never be good enough to drive the merchant tailor out of business.

Among the large metropolitan concerns where men may have clothes made to order and at the same prices as they would pay for the ready made articles, Marx Arnheim, at Broadway and takes high rank. At the present time, with the spring arid summer srock of materials still large a trip through the establishment is bewildering There are rows upon rows of bolts of clotn, and never two pieces alike Rows containing light dark and medium colored cloths In all styles of material, all marked in plain figures, a suit." Near these are -ijws of cloths containing just many as to color and pattern as the flrht and alfmafked a suit." There are more rows aad more prices, in cases may be seen the model KarountK like which the ordered goods will be. A large corps of men are kept busy taking the measurements of customers, and the bustle and activity of the place show that the custom tailoring buain.s-s, when conducted on the lines maintained by XI Arnhelm. is appreciated by the public. The orders for spring and summer business suits have never been so large with the concern as this season.

The trousers are made slightly wider than last season, the waistcoats show a little more opening and the coats have a longer roll. Three and fosir button straight single breas'ed sacks, button cutaway sacks and cutaway frocks are being 'nade In medium shades of gray, cheviots, over- and homespuns. For day dress the house has many orders for the three button cutaway coat, cut rather long and having pockets with flaps on the hips. These coats, as well as the sacks, have longer collars than were worn last season. White waistcoats will be worn more In the coming season than for several years iwst.

but the waistcoat Is also in demand and is being made botn BtnKle and double breasted. The short overcoat, cut loose, seems to have the preference over all others. For day dress black coat and waistcoat and fancy trousers or black fancy trousers and light waistcoat, will be worn again, but there will be many long frock suits seen, made of Oxford gray, and the double breasted three button sack suit will also be made of light colored material. Arnheim has for years been headquarters for first class garments for men's wear, but their stock Is particularly worthy of examination thiy season. HATS FOR ALL HEADS.

The Changes Made By Spring Styles. The Dunlap silk hat for spring and summer will be in many respects like the hat of last fall and winter. It will have the silk band without buckle. and the height for young men DUN LAP CO. will be 6 Inches, and for older men a dimensions of last season.

Hut still there is enough difference between the spring and the fall hat to make the latter conspicuous. The crown of the new hat Is somewhat smaller, giving the hat a lighter app.arance. The brim is narrower at the aides than the brim of the fall hat, and. on the whole, it has a "summery" shape. The derby hat has a slightly tapering crown, and the brim is cut full, giving the hut a broader effect, than last year's hat.

In height the derby is about the same as it was last year, the live sizes ranging from 5 to inches, and the brims from lsi to 2Vs inches in width. Soft hats will probably be popular, and the alpine shape will have the preference- over all. The Panama effect which was in favor last year will be worn again, and the colors will be various shades of pearl anil gray. Besides the regulation hat. the I.

rice of which customers know, the stock contains this year many hats of superior texture, ringing In price from $7 to $12. Last year the cowboy style of noft hat. without binding and having extra wide brims, was moderately popular, but. hat without the binding will be less popular this year, and the alpine hat will resemble the one which was worn several years ago. in straw hats for the coming season Dunlap's shows practically the same styles worn last season.

Fine and coarse sennit straw will probably be the most popular, and the hats will be made in so many sizes of crown and brim that any man's face or form may be suited. There will be no extreme styles in straw hats, although the men who are partial to the fiat, broad style will be able to find what they want. The hat dealer has noticed in the last few years that many men have their own Ideas as to the shape of FOIU UOWNS OF WOOLTBX CONSTRUCTION SHOWING STYLES THAT WILL DOMINATE THE EASTER FASHIONS. their straw hats anil will not take a straw hat simply because it is pronounced "stylish." The independent purchaser will have a larger assortment to select from this year than ever before. Ah to the place which the Panama hat will take next season, no one seems to know.

the trade calls for them." said Dunlap's manager, 'we shall prepared. We shall have Panama hats in all good grades up to beautiful specimens which cost $600 and $700 a down." SHIRT WAISTS EMBROIDERED. Kmbrot'li iy of some sort seems a necessity on a. shirt waist, if the latter is to be at all modish. Sometimes it is bands of Persian embroidery In rich Oriental tones, applied to form the straight choker, belt and wristbands, with a piece about sis inches in length to close the waist on the left shoulder, or a longer strip to conceal the flap where the waist fastens on the left side.

Russian embroidery, or, as none prefer to call It. cross-stitch embroidery, has taken tremendously both as a decoration lor shirt waists and as applied to fancy coilars and One waist of white crash has a double row of medium sized buttons down the box pleat in front. The button' have a small pattern in red, green and biack worked on them in the Russian style, and correspond In design with the bands of Russian embroidery at the neck, waist and wristbands Coarse linen lace combines with pongee to form some of the handsomest of the season's models, and all are much pleated and Moused and ample in their cut. The girl who is deft with fingers Is busy embroidering: her new waists with wild roses, cornflowers, poppies and other horticultural specimens. The work Is in whit- linen for linen waists white silk for silk waists, and is often very elaborate anJ beautiful.

The. shops charge so much for fine needlework that It is worth while of any one who has the skill and the leisure for It to decorate their own shirt waUts. A PARISIAN SLEEVE. The sleeve rlgueur In all the best Parisian models I.i tight fitting above the elbow, with a puff or f-lM The upper part Is usually ornamented with in passementerie or lace, and the cuff may be turned back with a gauntlet or lace though this Is less chic than the simple pointed sleeve coming well over the band. COBWEB HANDKERCHIEFS.

Bits of Fine Workmamhip That Last for Years. One expects to find the rare, the beauttful. the bnusual. at A. A.

Vantine (No. fc'9 way), but even here one does not often see such exquisite fabnes as are A. A. VANTINE A CO. shown this season.

Lovers of the beautiful would do well to visit the lace department here. If only for the artistiJ plrasure and value of an houspent among such a riot of beautiful fabrics. Cobwebby handkerchiefs, with lace or centres, have deep of the finest Malta and antique laces, and one ran feel when Investing In RECEPTION GOWN LACS TRIMMER. AT EHRICH'S. these that one Is really buying heirlooms.

Such fabrics are not only the delight of a day, they may be handed down from generation to generation, giving endless pleasure. In these same fine Makes? laces are collars and fichus, which. Indeed, may be taken apart bit by bit. and used In a score of different ways, as well as deep edgings and Insertions of the fine Spanish lace at wonderfully reasonable figures. A waist of white Yahoshi with deep pelerine collar, embroidered in French knots and pearls, has a bmad band of Malta down the front and a deep edging of it about the collar, besides inserted motifs about the sleeves.

This is an exclusive Vantlne Pr rS' AND YOUTHS- WALXIXO SIMTB. From Brokaw Brothel model, and Is one of the richest and handsomest designs seen this season -howlng a most In stocks the "unusual sh. th assortment-ln rich emD fl' liberty ural pongees and One inens. In wear, exscarfs, too. so desirable for ar qulstte ralnoow and butterfly and soft pinks like a shower of rose assortment of kimonos for the r1 and haps never been outlinfabrlcs.

with rich brushwerk and delicate ovum in gold thread. and in fine Table sets, and dHllrs with hand embroMrry. ere one more among many beautiful things shewn at WOMEN'S AND MEN'S HATS. A New Departure Which Meets With Favor. The Knox hat establishment, at No whlrh been in operation only little mow than six months, has already become one of features of the avenue.

The E. N. KNOX. known hat concern numbers among It 3 customers hundreds of women, and for them the new store, nearer to their and well adapted for the display of women's hats, gloves, parasols and wraps, is a delifchtfu' shopping resort. Knox.

the hatter, whose name has been known for many years wherever Amerlcanmade hats for men are in use, added women's hats to his line of goods in small quantities some years ago at the store in the Fifth Avenue Hotel, which was then the only uptown Knox store. The public showed its appreciation of the new departure by liberal patronage, and the consequence has been that the department has increased steadily and grown In popularity. the new store in the Knox Building was the of in-n's which to the casual observer all look allk-. weneclipsed by the display of handsome for women's wear. The men's department Jo aw popular as it era was.

the stork bata .1 large and the styles are as trustworthy, but tlv addition of the women's department jcta store additional value. The driving. wulking. anil for women, whirii art- boll- of superior quality ami artistic in Irstsn At- them fire nwnv Import i hits nlthotirh the lty are of domestic production. stick of 01 parasols is ami nea-son.

and There Is also Un-k stnlf In phh and fancy colors and in all Th-- displayed in style that even the attention of ml are admired who rmtroulze the Knox nlv for and derby hats, and hat The Knox silk hat for the and summer season has i moderate roll to brim ami in bell shaped tha-i last season's hat. The derby a brim like the -ilk ha' and ranges height from 5 to Inches. The are of last year in color, anil vary only from year's hat in style. EMBROIDERED WAISTCOATS. Word ronreH from LssvSss that satin embroidered waistcoats are in demand for masculine evening wear USE OF STRAW FLOWERS.

Straw flowers are a new thing this season. The? are of large meshed net. stiffened and creased petal fashion, the edges of each petal bordered with short lengths of split yellow straw. The effect of whole la particularly airy and fairy like. The more expensive are of tulle Instead of net.

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