The San Francisco Examiner from San Francisco, California • 95

Of at mt yi.yyi .4 V-V 4 jilt 'r S.F. Sunday Examiner Chronicle September 4, 1983 Travel Pag 3 New York food show 1 DDL isn't your run-of-the-meal delicatessen By Dick Alexander Examiner travel writer A popular section In th DDL Foodshow In New York City is th hors d'ouvrs display i EW YORK Just my luck. I missed Dino De LaurentUs by 60 minutes, more or less. I'd been walking around the Italian movie producer's gourmet DDL Foodshow In upper Manhattan for some 20 minutes taking pictures and talking Into my micro tape I 4 i-' i i- 7 vs; -trw MJL i i i I lit- IW A I i.v... i jr.

sfrta i mm iMmi recorder and trying to remain invisible when a young man asked if he could be of assistance. My cover blown, I introduced myself. He introduced himself as Pace pronounced PAW-chay for peace. He didn't give any other name and modestly admitted to a title like assistant director of operations, or something like that "Does Mr. De LaurentUs ever come in here?" I asked.

"Every time he's In town," Pace replied. "You Just missed him by about an hour." What's a very successsful motion picture mogul of many years' duration doing in the ultra-delicatessen business, one might ask. "Now, my hobby, food, is one of my businesses," he once told an interviewer. "And everyone can enjoy my favorite Old World recipes." It was Sunday afternoon and I had taken the IRT Local AA train from the World Trade Center to 81st Street, the il; V. subway stop for the American Museum of Natural History.

I then walked one block west to Columbus Avenue and looked for Number 444. It turned up under a rather I --f mJ ii.ii Another well patronized part of th DDL Foodshow specializes In vegetarian foods vfit? r' I w. t- I ft 1 mm Hi obscure canopy in the middle of the block on the west 'm side. i uUV Outside, children were pressing their noses against a large show window that displayed oversized pastries in the shapes of animals. No King Kong here just alligators and turtles.

The interior revealed that this was no runof-the-meal Westside Dave's delicatessen. Obviously, the transition from film to fettuccine, movies to Mozzarella was a snap jf for De LaurentUs. Parlaying "La Strada" to ricotta apparently is no tougher for a true impresario than segueing from "King Kong" to culinary cookery or from "War and Peace" to wine and pizza. Less than a year old, the DDL Foodshow has already been compared by critics with such celebrated food purveyors as Fauchon of Paris, Peck of Milan and Dallmayer of Munich. Spread for some 12,000 square feet beneath a soaring glass atrium skylight, this unusual gallery of gastronomy was designed by Adam Tihany, who brought us, I was informed, the Xenon discotheque, La Coupole restaurant and Club A nightclub.

The Foodshow, according to a bit of press-agentry, features "sculpted Roman archways, a lush forest of ferns, antique brick and tile, burnished oak cabinetry and fine brass finishings in what was originally the (hotel) Endicott's glorious Palm Court in the late 1800s." Flackery aside, it is worth a peek and a purchase, as evidenced by the flock of Sunday afternoon shoppers. The Foodshow is categorized by such areas as: The Gastronomia; Rotisserie; Cheese Shop; Espresso Bar; ''Authentic Homemade Ham and Sausage Shop';" Greengrocer; Bakery, and shops specializing in pate, salmon, caviar, chocolate and, of course, pasta. I had ample time to glimpse the wine vinegars Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, for example; the mustards such as Dijon and Colman; canelloni, Italian goat ricotta, Borgia balogna, Mozzarella and prosciutto; hearts of palms and apple-smoked turkey breast before Pace caught me on the stairs between cans of De Laurentiis's own Italian peeled tomatoes and the coffee shop. 'i Talk about aroma a regular ground smell of coffee! Like Mocha Java, Vienna roast, Colombia ground, espresso. "You can tell a good cheese by the year," Pace said later under huge cheese rolls hanging down like stalactites.

"Like a good wine." Pace took me on a tour of the immaculate foot kitchen, where much of the equipment, such as pasta machines, ovens and breadmaking utensils, has been imported so that products are prepared exactly as they are in their place of origin. The food became so tasty looking that the shoppers wanted to eat it before they got it home, Pace said. This -resulted in a small bar where you can purchase sandwiches, as well as your favorite wine, beer or spirits. Most all of the culinary specialties are prepared on the premises, made with the "finest" of imported and domestic natural ingredients, following Old World recipes. Also, the Foodshow catering service assists with personalized menu planning, serving advice and delivery service.

And then there's the pasta from Rigatoni to Ziti to chocolate. That's right, chocolate pasta. I'll share the recipe with you if you don't tell Dino: vf, MAC CHOCOLATE PASTA 1 pound chocolate pasta Vi cup creme de cacao Vi cup chocolate chips ta cup chopped hazelnuts cup chopped fresh strawberries Va cup golden raisins cup Kahlua Whipped cream New York's fall events NEW YORK Opera performances, a restored South Boil the pasta for 1 Va to 3 minutes, until it is tender but still resists the bite. Drain the pasta, place it in a bowl and toss with the creme de cacao, chocolate chips, hazelnuts, strawberries, raisins and Kahlua. Top individual servings with a dollop of whipped cream.

Serves four. Good luck! The DDL Foodshow is located at 444 Columbus at 81st Street, and is open all day, seven days a week, year-round. Other Fpodshows are scheduled for the Trump Tower in New York City and in Beverly Hills. MAUI FLY DIRECT SAN FRAN. TO MAUI One $COO per person week wOaC dbl.

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22 Metropolitan Opera centennial and the annual Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade. A copy of the "Fall Calendar of Events" can be obtained by writing to the New York Visitors Bureau, 2 Columbus Circle, New York, N.Y. 10019. The bureau also publishes calendars for winter, spring and fall events and from $3502 WEEKS INCLUDES" ACfcOMMODATION MEALS IN A CAREFULLY SE Just 65 miles northwest of Reno and Lake Tiho. Call or write for brochure and SPECIAL DISCOUNTS' 0 0.0; I ST lEA'N AS I VARA ABOO OiN ATE tZSaaRANnCiAiRTlSIlSiTEPEA'Nl D.E O'yPCOV SPSiL hCSSI 0 OOCjfE I pCJCH A NllA.S, I I STERSOfClHAR I TYUVARA hff ESP'ONDraONCiff'SBTABOC 1 SUAN iA'IBT OiN Li BR I EStlADE WBCRE A TEff sjrfrlAu 'TBSSr I AIM ESDnL AN TCJAn t.HEMSlJ NE NffT HfeBO YiS, I TH AN O'MM I R'GtaL I ICSiC OiONiSBDl I IMP'S BAsaSU sPT RO.SCS3 E'S SKaNAlP aCjt tdaba MADWO UHOF AJjUjL OjT ElNiNlAUYiEiASlTUSlTiclHlJaUGS sa iii i in.

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