The Boston Globe from Boston, Massachusetts • 250

M4 THE BOSTON SUNDAY GLOBE SEPTEMBER 21, 1997 NORWEGIAN' CRUISE LINE OCT thru MAR Includes flights, 7-8 nights allmost meals, full sights escort. From $999 SCOTLANDEUROPEAN QUINTEUROME S0RRENT04ITALIAN NORTHERN LAKES. Solemn dignity in Spain In Cordoba, Muslim, Christians and Jews coexist Discovery Cruise South America 14 Day Chilean FjordsStraits of Magellan Jan. 17 and Feb. 28, 1998 Cw Pwl klandi.

Mantavidc and BuinM Alrea ana nun. GERMAN CHRISTMAS MARKETS 699 MAY 1998 The Shroud of TurinShrines of Italy Tour Just $1799 per persontwin Ask about 1998 tours Special Group Promos XjJI for tilth, eET ABOARD AT exciting Vfl CALL OTISO Crtfee Vacations, Inc. 1 By Georgia Litwack GLOBE CORRESPONDENT For details call: (617) 438-2224 (800) 234-9959 rrST. pp- xmsmrrr faa, ft" V' Bigger cars. Smaller rates.

IV, i "Hi Jf Hfe trill i A mix of styles Hispano-Flemish arches, Renaissance dome, Baroque choir vault -the cathedral continues to hold services. As we leave, three priests in black cassocks and scarlet hoods stride silently along the ancient paving. We emerge into the brilliant sunshine of the mosque's Patio de las Naranjas, where orange blossoms perfume the air and giant plums sway in a gentle breeze. We set out on our walking tour -many of Cordoba's principal sights are within easy distance of each other. So vividly does Eduardo recount the past, we half expect a tall Moor to materialize be 'f't I 1 CORDOBA, Spain "Imagine!" our guide Eduardo commands.

Bursting with ardor for his city's sublime past and colorful present, he leads us through one of Spain's most haunting monuments the Mez-quita, the great mosque of the Moors, the place where Somerset Maugham felt himself "transported to another world." We tread on time-worn stones past rows of elegant columns to reach the Mihrab, the "holy of holies" where the prayer-leader had stood. "Imagine 20,000 men in purest white, kneeling on their mats, facing Mecca, with the imam's chanting carried to the most distant corner." Eduardo gestures toward the soaring arches. "Visualize it! Eight thousand hanging silver lamps, gold blazing from the ceiling, the Horan in an ivory pulpit encrusted with priceless gems." He traces the history of one of the world's finest Muslim edifices. Begun in 784, finished in 976, it became a Christian church in 1236 after the "Reconquista," the Christian victory over the Moors. We reach the mosque's center, to shift suddenly from a Muslim to a Christian place of worship.

In 1525, Emperor Charles ordered the insertion of a massive cathedral into the heart of La Mezquita. With regret, he later called a halt, but too late; the cathedral was virtually COMPACT CAR Florida Nationwide 149 Per week Per week Free tank of gas and unlimited free mileage Request Rate Code US. 1 r-itl ii i jm nrr PHOTO GEORGIA UTWACK A receptacle in the cathedral's treasury. fore our eyes his intricately wound silk turban atop his handsome bearded face, his bur-noose hanging from broad shoulders to the turned-up toes of his soft Cordovan leather shoes, a jewel-handled sword hung from a brocaded waist strap. And a whole lot of other things you'd never expect from a rental car company.

Alamo gives you a larger car for about the same price or less, than you would pay for a smaller model from one of our competitors. Travel smart with Alamo and get more for less like unlimited free miles and a free tank of gas. For reservations contact your travel agent or call Alamo Eduardo's narration connects what we see with the city's glittering history as he ushers us along wind- cobblestoned streets. We step back through the centuries to an era when Cordoba echoed to the call of SPAIN, PageM17 at 1-800-GO-ALAMO. Be sure to request Rate Code US a at time of booking.

For interactive reservations i access us at www.goalamo.com When it's your time and money Statue of Maimonides, revered religious philosopher. Bullfighting Museum, memorabilia, posters, costumes. Diocesan Fine Arts Museum. Roman Bridge rebuilt by Moors, 800-foot span, still in use. Hotels: (early booking needed for Holy Week, Patio Festival).

Conquistador, elegant, pricey, Moorish. Marisa, reasonable, old An-dalusian house. Parador La Arruzafa, state run. Lodging: The Spanish Tourist Office publishes a hotel guide, rating the accommodations with one to five stars. Dining: The city is known for its variety of colorful restaurants and exciting foods.

Specialties: sal- Location: Andalusia, southern Spain. Best time to visit: spring and fall. Events: Carnival before Lent. Holy Week, processions fill city. Mid-May, "Festival de los Patios," private courtyards open.

End of May, National flamenco competition. Things to see: Mezquita, one of world's greatest mosques. Synagogue, under restoration, not always open. See Tourist Office. Alcazar, palace with gardens, Roman mosaics.

Old Jewish Quarter, narrow cobbled streets, Moorish morejo; thick, garlicky gazpacho; rabo de toro (bull's tail stew); lamb with honey; pork in pepper sauce, El Caballo Rojo (Red Horse) is the winner of the National Gastron-. omy Prize. Things to buy: Silver Filigree, embossed leather. Currency: peseta; its dollar equivalent varies. Getting there: Iberia Airlines from JFK via Madrid; bus, train, service from major cities.

Recommended reading: Standard guides plus (for flavor) Maugham, Michener, Theroux. More information: Tourist Office of Spain, 655 Fifth New York, NY 10022. Cordoba Tourist Office, Plaza de Juda Levi 011-34-57. GEORGIA LITWACK' Travel Smart 1-800-GO-ALAMO Taxes (including, in California, VIF taxes ranging up to $1.89 per day), registration feetax reimbursements, optional CDW Waiver Savers at $1 5.99 a day or less, additional fuel, additional driver fee, drop charges and other optional items ore extra. Rates higher for renters under age 25.

At some off-ciirport locotions, on airport-imposed tax or fee, ranging up to 10, will apply if you choose to exit on our shuttle bus. Weekly rotes require a 5-doy minimum rental or doily rates apply. A 24-hour odvance reservation is required. Rental rotes valid through October 1 5, 1 997, if reserved within one week of the date of this publication. Blackout dotes may apply.

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