The Boston Globe from Boston, Massachusetts • 90

Hi i KJ A A jet soars overhead as fishermen unload their catch early in the morning to be sold at the New England Fish Exchange, located at the end of Boston's Pier 6. By Christopher Kenneally Call it the Winter's Nap Syndrome. With the nights now long and cold, our biological alarm clocks have a way of freezing up like old pipes. Getting up in the morning is never easy, but at this point in the earth's orbit, it seems' downright foolish. The bed is warm, the floor will be cold and the car probably won't start.

The bears have the right idea; the best thing to do is just stay put until March. Our ancestors, however, unlike the bears, never got the hang of hibernation. Reluctantly, we take that first step. The floor is cold. At least, it gives us a jump start.

Our eyes open. Rise and shine, rise and shine, that's our mantra on days like this. Without even thinking, we slip back under the covers. ZZzzzzzz But, wait a minute! Keep those eyes open for just a little while longer, there's opportunity here. The city before sunrise has its secrets and those spirited enough or crazy enough to venture out will find much to delight or surprise them.

Imagine, for example, Harvard Square with no traffic, absolutely none, and enough parking spaces for a fleet of cars. After the madness of the holiday shopping rush, Brattle Street in the silence of 5:30 in the morning is a joy. And even if you were tempted to shop, your credit cards would be useless. About as much money as you can spend is a quarter for the morning newspaper at the Out of Town Newspapers kiosk. Around the corner from Out of Town is the only other warm spot in Harvard Square.

Even at such a cold hour, there is never a chance of any down time at the Tasty Sandwich Shop grill. The Tasty, 2A JFK is open night and day, 24 hours. In fact, the only problem may be finding a vacant stool among the Tasty's dozen. Surrounded by cookie stores and trendy outfitters, the Tasty is a lone outpost of old Harvard Square, of a time when the most expensive car double-parked anywhere was a Volkswagen "Bug" and health food was anything not cooked in a dormitory dining hall. They still serve doughnuts at the Tasty and great, big sweet rolls dripping with glaze.

The doughnuts lie under their clear plastic covers on chrome pedestals and you can order one of the sweet rolls toasted on the grill. And there is no such thing there as brewed decaf, you'll have to take decaf instant from a little orange Sanka packet Of course, at 5:30 in the morning, real coffee disappears fast at the Tasty, served up to regulars by a bleary-eyed young cook who knows everyone's orders by heart. "I know," he tells one woman as she lights up a cigarette, "toast with lots of butter." Not only is smoking allowed here, it seems positively encouraged. At the end of the counter a young couple in leather jackets discusses the esthetics of the Camel pack. In Cambridge? Giobe stafl photos1 on Uodrrs.