The Boston Globe from Boston, Massachusetts • 41

THE BOSTON-GLOUK WEDNESDAY. AUGUST 24, 1983. 41 Pontrolling kitchen clutter: First, make a plan Most wine experts can recognize superiority in color, clarity and bouquet. We also have a nose for value. You can't read or hear about wine today without reading or hearing about experts.

Every brand seems to have its own army of experts telling you why their particular wine is so good you should drink nothing else. The professional tasters at Monsieur Henri don't owe their allegiance to anyone wine, region, grower or riBri country. For the last JO years, they've been guided by one principleto bring you good wine at a good price. And they've been trained to recognize both quality and value. Roland Thevenin Rouge and Blanc are perfect examples.

Both are classic table wines from the distinguished house of the proprietor of Domaine Du Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet, one of the most prestigious firms in all of France. Roland Thevenin is also the mayor of Saint-Romain and the "Poet Laureate of Burgundy." He puts his reputation behind these two excel lent wines. The red is made of the Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes. The white is a blend of Chardonnay and Aligote. And our selection team ffey Elaine Tait Knight-Ridder PHILADELPHIA It is too hot to cook, but like it or not you're in the kitchen.

To distract mind and body fcwhile you're waiting for the pasta water to boil, consider a project 3that can be done with paper and jiencil while you sit in the relative Comfort of your favorite kitchen phair. The project will be right in your nine of vision. For years, you've noticing how otherwise tidy people collect clutter in their kitchens and how these same neatniks not to notice but to look right ithough the maze of knickknacks and gewgaws. You, of course, are different. Or are you? li See your kitchen as an outsider -or your mother) might see it, and chances are good that you'll find a -dozen or more things that should be moved, sold, given away or tossed out.

List those things, act on -that list, and you'll improve your cooking efficiency and the disposition of all you, cook there. To illustrate (cast the first stone, as it were), I give you some grisly examples spotted from the barber chair in my own kitchen. First there were the three bottle-green vases in which roses had arrived to mark some occasion or another. Why were they on the kitchen counter, a counter that I'd been saying for years didn't give me enough work space? And why hadn't I noticed them there and either given them away or put them where they made more sense? I put the vases on the "must go" list and went on to survey the rest of my crowded kingdom. Also on the counter was a cumbersome pasta maker that doesn't work very well.

Used once or twice, it will probably never see action again. And a cookbook I haven't opened since November. The handy see-through cookbook holder a friend had given me had been placed right under the switch to the garbage disposal. Invariably, the hand reaching for that switch would be wet and it would drip over the book and onto the pages. Placed there, the holder not only didn't protect the book, it guaranteed that it would be soiled.

I would dispatch the pasta maker and relocate the cookbook holder. Two rows of spices In see-through containers were shelved and small ones, hiding in the semi-darkness, where I'd never think of them when a real basket occasion was impressed with their body, flavor and bouquet. But what we were most impressed with is that unlike some other Roland Thevenin wines, these don't sell for $70 or $80 a bottle. They sell for around $4.00. Roland Thevenin Blanc rj in bemillt far tj Tbertnin fih Ral.

Wrm Mmkimti Utt-iOr Fmn IMrolTED ST MONSIEI'I HENII WINES LTD Any expert can recommend more expensive wines. But why should you pay more for quality than you have to? Roland Thevenin Rouge and Blanc. Selected and imported by Monsieur Henri Wines Limited, White Plains, N.Y. as one of the world's great wine values. For a list of stores that carry these fine wines and pulled out one near the bottom.

In it, I found two boxes of candles. There are no candle holders in the kitchen. My note to myself sent them to the dining room where candle holders abound. There was also an olive grabber. And two balls of kitchen string.

At my current rate of string usage, I would be well into my 70s before the second ball would be used. I would take my chances that I would be able to afford a new ball of string then or be resourceful enough to do without. I put the string on the list to go to Goodwill. The olive grabber, a gift from someone who probably thought that I had everything else, will go to someone who truly has everything else. (An olive grabber, should you need an explanation, looks like a small plunger with a chicken foot at the bottom.

This one is sterling silver and probably expensive.) On the floor, under the sideboard, sat the baskets, big ones above the range. It was not a good arrangement. The heat from the range and the light from the big window had turned the spices to flavorless dust. But the containers still sat there taking up valuable space. Out they would go, too.

In various corners and cupboards, I unearthed not one, not two, but three containers of white spray paint, bought, no doubt, for the metal lawn furniture in the garden. Why wasn't the paint on the chairs, or at least the cans in the garden or basement where they might more logically be placed? A great stack of laundered cloth napkins sat on the sideboard, probably placed there waiting for me to think of a better repository for them. They had been there at least three months. Surely there was somewhere for them to be less conspicuously quartered. I thought of the drawers in the cabinets to the right of the range came up.

I looked overhead to where a heat pipe came out of the wall and traveled a yard and a half along the ceiling before going upstairs. With some lengths of string, I could hang the baskets (they're very light so they don't put any strain on the plumbing) at various lengths from that pipe. They would be decorative and they would be accessible. I could go on, but you get the Idea. Look at your kitchen as a stranger would and you'll probably see dozens of ways to improve its looks and efficiency, ways that don't cost a cent.

Do the work on paper now. When more friendly weather arrives, you can do the actual moving. Or, if you'd like, lose the list, forever by putting it in a kitchen drawer with the olive grabber and the two balls of string. I'll never tell. call (617) 323-0500.

I Your guide to the best wine values of the world. JAKES BEARD An unusual gathering to honor outstanding chefs When you want the taste of fresh oranges, you want the taste of Minute Maid. You know how sweet and delicious fresh oranges taste. Minute Maid 100 pure orange juice from concentrate tastes just as sweet and delicious like fresh-squeezed. And it's 100 pure orange juice, with no sugar or preservatives added.

So for sweet, delicious fresh-squeezed taste just peel open our carton, pour and drink. Make sure. Make it Minute Maid. the fine art of making Italian breads, and American Fornaios are springing up all over the place. I particularly like the olive bread and the bread made with chocolate and dried fruits.

The English chef. Lord Bradford, is an innovator and a man with a sense of humor, and I was amused by his telling me that he had decided to open a restaurant in London with good English food served in the American fashion. I found the chef from Guadeloupe an enchanting person. Her name is Felicite Doloir, and she has a restaurant in Guadeloupe where the food is entirely Creole. Boonchoo Pholwatana, a grandmotherly master, represented Bangkok; genial chef Ramon Ca-bau was chosen from Barcelona.

I wish that I could talk about all these chefs at length and give you a recipe from each of them. Choosing just one dish was a terrible struggle. CHEF KAN LAP TAK'S LITTLE FLAT HENS WITH SPICY PORK Remove backbones from 2 thawed Cornish game hens (about 1 pound each) and discard. Flatten hens, then remove breastbone and ribcage. Season cavities of birds with salt and pepper.

Combine 1 pound ground fresh lean pork, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 teaspoon leaf thyme, 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon salt, Vfc teaspoon pepper and lh tablespoons oyster sauce and'mix together lightly. Crumble mixture over open birds, lightly packing cavities. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a heavy skillet. Place birds, skin side down, in skillet and thoroughly brown on skin side only, about 5 minutes. Bake, stuffing side up, in 400-degree oven for 15 to 25 minutes, depending on desired done-ness, basting once with pan juices.

Transfer to warm platter, stuffing side down. Deglaze skillet with a little broth or water and Vh tablespoons oyster sauce. Pour over birds. Garnish with sauteed cucumber and citrus slices and with sprigs of cilantro or parsley. (To prepare garnish, saute 1 sliced cucumber, 1 sliced orange and 1 sliced grapefruit all peeled first -in 2 tablespoons butter.) To serve, cut each bird into quarters.

I was invited to a most unusual party at The Four Seasons restaurant in New York recently by one of my favorite people in the food world, Maggie Waldron. Maggie, of the Ketchum Food Center in San Francisco, has just organized and coordinated a very special book for the H.J. Heinz Company, "The H.J. Heinz Company 1983 Annual Report Book of Cooks." Not a book advertising Heinz products, not a book for general sale and distribution and not a cookbook as such, it looks like a glossy, full-color company annual report and is a series of at-home conversations with 10 of the world's outstanding cooks. Beautiful photographs, good watercolor sketches and some of the chefs' favorite family recipes are included.

One of the chefs in this book happens to be one of my two favor-ite chefs in the world: Seppi Renggli at The Four Seasons. At a celebration in honor of the book's publication, Seppi had prepared a really spectacular buffet using many of the recipes from the book. The chefs chosen for the book were picked with a discriminating eye. It came as no surprise to me that Seppi Renggli was picked for New York, or the fabulous Alice Waters for the West Coast, but choosing really special, highly individual cooks from Hong Kong, Bangkok, Crete, Rome, Barcelona, France, London and Guadeloupe took a great deal of thinking. Kan Lap Tak, who presides over the kitchens of the World Trade Centre Club on Causeway Bay in Hong Kong, is an extraordinarily gifted chef from Canton who reads both English and French and has a "great gift for decoration his entirely edible dragons and birds have to be seen to be believed! My old friend Madeleine Kamman represented Annecy, high in the Alps near the Swiss border.

The Greek chef, Christoforos Veneris, is a staunch upholder of his native Cretan cuisine. He makes his own olive oil and spends considerable lime in the fields and mountains of the island gathering wild edibles. Fernando Tosoni, Nando for short, represented Rome. He helped launch the franchised chain of "boutique bakeries" known as II Fornaio the US license rights for this were bought fairly recently by Williams-Sonoma. Nando has been owr here teaching chosen people TfeM 250 Here's 250 off the juice thattastes 250 like fresh-squeezed oranges.

CONSUMER: Coupon good only on purchase ol product indicated Not valid if transferred, exchanged, or reproduced DEALER: REIMBURSEMENT TERMS: Valid only on product and size indicated Valid in A. only Value as specified plus 7c handling One manufacturers coupon per purcnase Void where prohibited taxed, restricted, or license is required Coupons are nonassignable, nontransferable and may not be reproduced Other use constitutes traud. and all coupons ml' De confiscated Coupons accepted only Iron retailers or authorized clearing houses On request, dealer must orovioe prooud invoices for past 90 days Sales tas must oe paid by consumer Presentation for payment represents compliance with these terms Cash value 120: Redeem coupons promptly by mailing to bla in J1 at Save 250 with this coupon on one quart or one half-gallon of Minute Maid 100piire P.O. Box 3960. Omaha.

NE 68103. NO EXPIRATION DATE from concentrate. 250 i 250 Minute Matd is a 'eqtste'ed traaemarK ot The Coca-Coa Company I 1983 The Coca-Cola Com! 3ny. Minute Maid" is a registered trademark of The Coca-Cola Company..