The Boston Globe from Boston, Massachusetts • 67

Beautiful Change and a new brand in the South End. 1S result? Patricia Yeo has made Ginger Park worth a second look. Let's talk about reinvention. are downright addictive. CockThe reinvention of Banq, tails seem less sweet and more which opened in 2008 to much refreshing.

(The tamarind margafanfare. Unfortunately for the rita and shiso-jito are both quite restaurant, much of it had to do good.) And the menu is less seriwith the groovy interior, tricked ous, more fun. It's now the kind out with undulating ribs of blond place you want to return to regwood, not the Asian-inflected ularly. French food. Menu offerings rotate often, The reinvention of Patricia small-to-medium-size servings Yeo, a New York chef acclaimed filed under "cold plates," "hot for her restaurant AZ, but less plates," "dumplings things," well-received at several subse- "noodles rice," and "specials." quent establishments.

These are meant to be shared, Two months ago, after a year and servers recommend ordering and a half in business, Banq about two items per person. (Spechanged its name, its concept, cials are closer in size to standard and its chef. It's now called Ginger entrees than the other selections Park, and it serves small plates are.) Ordering here is like salting that put Asia front and center. a pot; start off conservatively and The food is conceived by Yeo, who add more to taste. relocated to Boston for the new The dishes span an entire post.

continent; Yeo spent several years Is there such a thing as a fresh in Asia, and she apprenticed with start? Tiger Woods hopes so. street vendors in Thailand and Ginger Park and Yeo testify yes. Malaysia. Peppery Vietnamese The place looks much the same as shaking beef is folded into panbefore; a wall was removed be- cakes, moo shu style drippy but hind the U-shaped bar, opening so flavorful. Duck meatballs up the space, the design equiv- spiked with lemongrass and alent of a breath of fresh air.

Its cilantro: are served with soft, owners are the same, Hemant smoky eggplant puree and Thai Chowdhry and Mark Raab. But it massaman curry. It's a beautiful is now a much stronger restau- dish. So is dan dan mien in rant. Flavors are bolder.

Dishes your mouth, if not in the bowl. STAFF REVIEW BY DEVRA FIRST A brown heap of thin noodles, Short rib and sweetbread these are referred to on the menu potstickers are tender-skinned, as "Sichuan-style with a rich and meaty filling; the They match their Italian meat sweetbread flavor gets lost, sauce cousin in savory satisfac- though. Spring rolls stuffed with of tion, but they're quite a bit spicier. caramelized onion and mush(If there were questions about rooms flood the tongue with a whether Ginger Park is too simi- similar kind of richness, no meat lar to Myers Chang, also serving required. A special of tender Asian small plates right down the oxtail braised in black bean sauce street, this dish answers them.

It's Continued on next page so different from Myers Chang's light, cool dan dan noodles laced with ginger and peanut sauce, you wouldn't think they shared a GINGER PARK name.) Silver pin noodles are similar 1375 Washington Boston. to udon but made of rice. (They're 617-451-0077. www.gingerpark sometimes known, less poetically, boston.com. All major credit as "rat noodles" because of their cards accepted.

resemblance to rodent tails.) The Wheelchair accessible. chewy, thick strands are stir-fried Prices Hot and cold plates $8- with tofu and bean sprouts; the $14. Dumplings Noodles sauce has a deep, almost roasted Specials soy flavor, similar to miso but not Hours Sun-Wed p.m. as rich. It comes from fermented Thu-Sat p.m.

soy beans and salted, dried dai- Sun brunch 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. kon, Yeo explains later by phone. Noise level Conversation easy. Naan flatbread touches down May we suggest in India, topped with spiced Shaking beef, wild boar and lamb, tender potatoes, spinach, blue corn tostada, duck meatfeta, and tomato sauce spiked balls, naan flatbread, dan dan with bird chilies. It's a great com- mien, whole fried fish.

bination, though the bread seems more like pizza crust than naan. DECEMBER 9, 2009 BOSTON GLOBE 21.