The Gazette from Montreal, Quebec, Canada • 98

i6 THE GAZETTE montrealgazette.com SATURDAY, MAY 7, 2011 WEEKEND CASUAL RESTOS Sarah Musgrave All is sweet at Su Shian Yuan SMILII 15 SERVICE warms the heart, but Taiwanese-inspired vegetarian could go a little more easy on the sugar 0 L. "CI: 4- PHOTOS: JOHN MAHONEY THE GAZETTE The "deep-fried roll of skin of soybean milk" at Su Shian Yuang is an appetizer with a wrap made of a thin sheet of tofu skimmings. I mm V. channelled pineapple chicken with the tang of the fruit and red bell peppers. Ironically, the least sweet part of the meal was dessert, a sun cake (a flat and flaky puck made with malt, flour and milk) and a bean-paste-filled moon cake (shaped like a knish), both made in-house.

What was more interesting and what really captures the level of intrigue and attention that this place offers was the list of beverages, which ranged from the iced white gourd tea (complimentary with lunch; sugary, floral, nice) to a black-bean and matcha beverage to a digestion-enhancing tea called smoked plum soup. I tried a mug of Hakka pestle cereal, of ethnic Chinese origin and containing a multitude of whole grains pounded into a powder (beyond oats, rice and sesame seeds I could only guess). The warming liquid, rich but not too thick nor sweet, gave off toasty notes and calming comforts so associated with the cream of wheat and Horlicks from my childhood that I'm heading to Chinatown to find a packet. Taiwanese vegetarian food does tend toward sweet "tofu in a sweet sauce is the chicken of Taiwan," said a friend who lived for a long while in Taichung -but this kitchen may need to tame that tendency for its Montreal audience. I also would have liked to see some plainer, zingier, veggie sides (Chinese broccoli, for example, is listed only as a main) to counter all the sauces and soy If it's hard to stamp a rating on a restaurant like Su Shian Yuang, it's because it was so very sweet in every sense: wonderfully so in its intentions and its smiling service, overly so in its seasoning.

Still, in the drink, smoked bean curd, taro balls, sweet potato fries and even in a taste of hot-and-sour soup, there was an authenticity that made me, and, I hope, more people, curious to try more. Feedback? restoagogogmail.com Su Shian Yuang Good bet 420 Rachel St. E. (near St. Denis St.) Phone: 438-380-2829 Website: On Facebook Licensed: No Credit cards: Interac only Wheelchair accessible: One step up Vegetarian friendly: Yes Open: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m., to 10 p.m., Sun.

to 5 p.m. Price range: Appetizers mains desserts $2.50. This is truly a restaurant of the conscientious sort. The cuisine stems from Taiwan's vegetarian tradition, which has its foundation in Buddhist dietary principles, substituting meats for a lot of soy proteins. The food is advertised as MSG-free, and the menu notes which dishes contain dairy products or eggs, which are spicy and which elements are handmade on-site.

The service is incredibly solicitous, the waitress bowing and shyly enthusiastic as she inquires about customer satisfaction. The decor in timid greens, with tablecloths overlaid with doilies and a flowery mural on the wall conveys a sense of serenity. So a meal at Su Shian Yuang promises to be out of the ordinary -different from the burgers-and-fries scene, but also from the black-bean burritos health-food scene. Opened in late March by the Lee family (mother, father, brother, sister), originally from Taipei, the name of this venture roughly translates to "vegetarian home country garden," and there's a real feeling of dedication to that vision. From the start, an order of taro balls, although registering on the sweetness scale, this starchy trop- The crumb-encrusted outside of Su Shian Yuang's taro balls gives way to a soft creamy paste inside.

Taro is a starchy tropical tuber. bread lined with salmon spread. Worth tasting, but still strange to Western tastes, and so best shared rather than ordered as a one-person starter. Equally eye-catching was a menu entry for smoky soybean slices. The smokiness mildly suggested pork, but I liked that this slightly chewy preparation didn't have a full-on mock meat quality.

As a lunch special, it was served with a golden-crisped and perfectly peppery egg roll, a salad that looked like Korean potato salad but turned out to also contain chunks of apple, balanced with a heap of stir-fried vegetables. Through other dishes, what began to drag was the tendency toward sweetness, and perhaps also the propensity for adding alternative proteins. The sweetness wasn't particularly off-putting in any single dish, but cumulatively cloying, masking more unique flavours beneath the surface. For example, in an order of veggie bibimbap, a Korean rice bowl, the sugary quality worked against the heat of homemade kimchee. There was sweetness in a heavy plate of noodles, sprouts, shredded vegetables and pinkish soybean protein, laden with sesame sauce.

Even rounds of deep-fried eggplant (fresh, soft, almost tem-pura style) contained soy protein under the batter, although here the sweet-and-sour sauce rather nicely Deep-fried Taiwanese sweet-potato fries have a fluffy batter sprinkled with plum-based "home powder," that worked both sweet and sour. i CASUAL RESTOS Ratings: Chancy, fair bet, good bet, great bet mains under $10 $35 sour. An appetizer called "deep-fried roll of skin of soybean milk" demanded a try, obviously. The thin, wrinkly sheet made of tofu skimmings was used as a delicate wrap for filling that included soybean and water chestnuts. The flavour reminded me oddly of tea sandwiches, the kind on crustless white BLUMER April 24, 2011 Christine, Russ, and big sister Ansley are thrilled to announce the arrival of Aaron Johnson Blumer on Sunday, April 24, at Mt.

Sinai Hospital in Toronto. Proud grandparents are Roger Johnson and Julia Smethurst of Jacksonville, Arkansas, and Peggy Fleming of Montreal. Missed at this time are grandparents Anne and Ron Blumer, late of Montreal. Thrilled great-grandmothers are Eva Gora and Julia Smethurst. Special thanks to Dr.

Shapiro and the rest of the team at Mt. Sinai Labour and Delivery. CHREIN-GLASSMAN Ishwara, Jason and sister Chloe proudly announce the birth of baby brother Matthew Richard, born in New York City on March 30. 2011. Delighted grandparents are Mrs.

Judy Chrein of Montreal and Dr. and Mrs. J. N. Glassman of San Diego, CA.

B.H. We ical tuber also used in ice cream really won me over. The crumb-encrusted exterior gave way to the soft, creamy paste inside (sort of like creamy potato-cod croquettes without fish). Also deep-fried, Taiwanese sweet-potato fries were quite delicious in a fluffy batter, sprinkled with plum-based "home powder" that worked sweet and celebrating.com Share the joy. Tell the world.

montrealgazette.complaceanad Sti 1 Announcements appear on Celebrating.com for six months. regret that we cannot guarantee the return of photos or the quality of their reproduction. DEADLINE: Wednesday 12 noon 1 ROSENHEK-BERMAN April 6, 2011 Adrienne and Efrem, and big sister Cassie, are thrilled to announce the birth of Zachary Dov on April 6th. 2011 weighing Sibs 15oz! Welcoming Zachary with open arms are Babi Suzie Papa Henry Rosenhek, Bubby Pola Gramps Eric Berman, Auntie Michi, Uncle Gid Max Zelermyer and Auntie Becca Berman. Especially excited is Great-Grandmother Min Berman in Ottawa.

A heartfelt thank you to Dr. Luis Monton, Dr. Paul Wieczorek and the staff at the JGH. Zachary is named in loving memory of his Great-Grandfathers Zacharia Fiszer, z'l and Benjamin (Dov) Rosenhek, z'l. SUSSKIND-PONAK April 18, 20U Joy and Adam are beyond thrilled to announce the birth of their healthy, beautiful twin girls, Amber Celeste 51bl2 and MacKenzie Skye 7lb4.

Big brothers are Tyler Jordan and Preston Cole. Special thanks to the Lakeshore Hospital, Dr. Saxon, Dr. Vasilie and all the amazing nurses. Congratulations! JEREMY Samantha Cohen and Jeremy Shinewald are thrilled to announce their engagement.

Proud parents are Linda Rosenbloom, Lome Cohen and Edward and the late Sharon Shinewald. Grandparents are Marilyn and Harvey Rosenbloom, the late Vivian Cohen, Sophie and the late Hy Shinewald and Rochelle and the late Joseph Putter. Lots of excited siblings, nieces and nephews. An August wedding is being planned. ANNIVERSARY THIS MAY 7th, RENE AND LILLIAN PILON ARE CELEBRATING THEIR 40th WEDDING ANNIVERSARY HERE' TO 40 MORE MUCH LOVE FROM REMY, CATHERINE, FAMILY AND FRIENDS Share the joy.

Tell the world. 1 HAPPY BIRTHDAY LIAM NICHOLSON Happy 1st birthday Liam. May 6 2011. You bring smiles to us all every day! With lots and lots of love. Mommy xoxoxo 50th Wedding Anniversary CARROLL ANGUS DORRANCE Wishing you much health, happiness and many more years together.

With love from family and friends. Happy 65th Wedding Anniversary! 'ft. PAMELA CLIFF LAW May 6, 1946 Fife, "CANADA'S LARGEST SELECTION OF PARTY RENTALS" lJi 'Weddings Special Events A TEE md -f i 1 Parties Corporate Events aOO-400 ii celebratisrig.com.