The Daily Courier from Connellsville, Pennsylvania on July 20, 1918 · Page 6
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July 20, 1918

The Daily Courier from Connellsville, Pennsylvania · Page 6

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Connellsville, Pennsylvania
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Saturday, July 20, 1918
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f£ + *- ^ * ,, $4V ~*v * ,v *- s . THE. DAILY CtfUBIER, CONNELLSVILLB,. PA, . . : c Sjmar i l. Belled CcalBool-ITop Sfcift Ttxe Dpesses ATt in Leather ft Smart Serviic^ C?ot#^^ Hoine Seta New Staitdardiiri JFem- mine Dress - Autuinn Tailor- mades P:itterne A fter S O IN LOVS* tijironinn'wilhl.'hez. new military' toss that aJ eooct many .of; the autumn' [fashions, show, a_; strong 'leanlnir.. toward. ^ 'service" ffectis ;Sport -girls' ''wear knitted coats this summer patterned- as nearly as possible after,' ^service. coats, snuj belt, breast 'pockets, lapels and all. Even the D.athiitg costume has a .soldierly suggestion 'and"- mil'. liners are vlein«' with; each -other;, to produce saucy turbana duplicating military headwear. The lop-sided; graceful cap of the ';J?reneh-. ·'Blue tevils". prbmlics to b« a favored fall model, .reproduced in velvet, - ancf all the summer ftrls are wearing:, piquant little fore-and-aft turbans shaped like the rakish caps of the British-Aviation units. No" sooner does a company of foreign soldiers, arrive. in..NeV. York ·--or a Rinele'Individual; of any such unit--than replicas of the- headgear worn by the visitors;.or visitor, appear ia the milliners shop Vinflowj, ·.;·' :". And everybody, know* what tfils .pas- sionufbr military* toss · has done to woman's footwear. A y ear. ago r only' the occasJonal-'wbman - wore-«nyt?lngr bii.t pretty,, hiyh-heeled shoes or slip- pen In the street.' Now'five wpme/v out of six'are shod sensibly with low- heeled- oxfords or ·'pumps 'whtcH, r 'of^ ifeaffue;" It 'is a'satisfactlon" to' a'ny have the merit . meridoiisry "smart." in 'ad ditloii.to 1 :. their' Qualities* of comfort and . se'rviceabli-**. icy, * TaiI3-heeled\ frivolous- slippers of, thin kid, wit nltghV turn ed-*o*les* would* be bizarre, with sternly, masculine .uni-i form tog's and feminity has : a- quick- «ya for absurdities aria. contradictions' of this sort In dress. Footwear' must at the picture, Vo 1 to. speak--it^ is- a : most Important detail of .dress theso^, days. So woman has^taken/.to -wear-Ing: stout, commonaenge,,' ·boots--any:- ing's, for. .formal-. .and. ''dressy" . occa- sions;^and,-h'6t" for. some seasons, probably '- will : there -bWin *r» of · such fragile. and « frivolous · footwear as" the past.' fo'w^y^ars --have .witnessed. The ' b ' wears uniforms 'provided *-byr- Uiic.le -Sam -- the Red "Cross wrier," the" -canteen worker un- .der the'fegrulaabn's'lof'.the T. M. C. A. -- all these.- 1 wear'," regulation- shoes. They are not "pretty" boo'ts; they are .boots built for comfort and service .but somehow they look Just right with, "the uniforms they accompany/ 'For .wear with- -"mufti" as war-worklnE" woman now dubs, her ordinary shopping; lunchi'm?,' sport. and general runabout tai'crmades, "there are extremely* smart oxfords and !.pumps built on mannish lines 'and 'wiC.?: low heels, but sufficiently. slim and Kfa.ceful.in shape to .maT:'^ ( tJ:s foot look attractive and aristocratic: r:UnWorm, AH ..... -.. Becoming The ;Nat!oriai -league for Women's Service has adopted Its own uniforms and 'withq'ut'brea.thlng' a work ot implied- criticism .on anybody's, motives o"f: t pa trio tfc'^'aer vice, "one cannot .but 3urjnlse-that' 7 these mast attractive unl-. nmi^ .win; - many recruits to. .the feminine. -soul, -no--matter how "her. ideala^ of '.service, "to know she -Is. looking 1 -ne'r- very best- in the''exceed- Inirty. smart; and; tr's- uniform which- sli'e-' wears' on -duty.. If- one had to serve-i.orie's 1 "country in Just ordinary; suit 'andfbatf and neck.wear, one migh wtijk as ^arnestly-- fb'ut it would a no be''h'aif ';as;sai!^y;iiig-, somehow. /The automobile -un^tar'mr'is ^especially at' ' ' imd these busy just below- the bell. A. stitched fold or tuck runs around the skirt of the coat, at either si'de of- the box pleat, giving- enrphasis- to the dashing" flare. possessor is on active duty. The u n l Th ^ small ^ has - a turQ;Ctl _ up brim, i form coat, is buUoaed over a flannel 1 laced" together at the front'with cord. ' shirt o£ reg-uiaUon masculine type and This is not a.-uniform for ·war-work- n. neat four-in-hand tlo Is drawn .under . srSt but" a smart riding costume pa't- the shirt collar. '.' ' _ · ' terned aJtor a masculine type of unl Siort 'logs I'liucrned On Military ' ffeavy-( AixLo ·_ - IUnifbr»tn of Belted ^CoaL.K and when duty .calls* Many of theae glrlfl drive their .own car.?, and hours that used to be. spent running about town and "out to'the country club are now Riven to i service that is Very real and valuable to the srovcrnment. : Aviation Cuiform Built For Hard Sen-ice The aviation, girl's- uniform'jlacks some of the jaunty, charactcriatics of the motor.Elr;'a.Karb, hut It has Us picturesque qualities nevertheless. It la a costume mostly of leather, built for,.warmth..and fcr the hardest .sort of service. ,The. trousers are strapped snugly over' the tops of the shoes, the' c^oat fastens up about tho throat and across the'chest'with cqul placed, by a. cloth cap; sometimes tho front porllon wi.!:h ihe {Toggles Is simply pushed back, the cop with iU-odd visor at tiac rear, remaining' aa part of the costfimo. RecniliJnjr V'nJ/ornos Becoming To All "Vvcjircrs The recruiting -uniform Is now BO familiar to ever.ybody.that" it scarcely needj description. The short Bkirt over neat booUt. a n d . pxittees and the hlp-len'gth, bcHed.coac aro becoming to all women except those of pronounced avorduptiis --- but then, the very stout woman rarely looks well in.anything. -Any sort of uniform is at Its best on a alim-waisted,. slender figure and hore - asa-iti tho fortunate and gauntlet, gloves; cocne". up pver the ! slim" woman of youthful contours has sleeves. · Ko opportunity anywhere for ! the advantage.. The leather belt with ' the' jearchlncr wind,, that js cruelly cold , in the'. higVair 'spaces, -to whisk fabrics about ; or -penetrate, to ··the pilot's tIJpcomfdr'tV" The helmet is- -ivorh only-durijigvUie" actual time of-flying. Somejlnies.-'.'on '(.he 'ground; It Is rc- its strap crossing the shoulder adds vastly to the trlgnc;s of this ·uniform. This belt/called thi Sarah Broivne be- Vacation niaids this year are. IOHG- Th« farmar girl Is admirably dressed for her Job in belted smock and extremely military In suggestion., 'For camping and fishing" trips · there- are coat and brcechas. suits accompanied by slvlrts for occasional, wear. -The coats have a jaunty, belted trim ness and arn worn ovfci- flannel shirts .of khaki color. The canoe girl wearn a khki.sklrt b u t t o n e d down tho front, · with b's buttoned-flap pocket* at the hip This may be accompanied by an ordinary ' linen waist or by a ' loose middy blouse, and some o f - the tisw middles have collar and cuffs of khaki. There are'"hlking" hats, too, of khaki, with adjustable brim thut may be turned down or roiled up In Several becoming 1 ways. Even the little girl has her khaki play-clothes this summer; a short skirl buttoned down tha front, a J«cker ivlth belt and pocket* and a rakish fore-and-aft cap. Bloom' ers of k h a k i - c o m e with tho' costumr and in her "service" ptfiy suft, minus- the buttoned skirl, tHo slim little ma.lu looks very like a jolly laddie. Fashionable riding" togs are patterned after . the uniform of the British Royal'Flyera. -The trlmly-flt- ting .breeches outllno the knee^ and arc m a t by tall boots 'of ao£t tan leather. The coat faljs almost to the knee, and has a dashing flare below t h e ' s n u g l y - w o r n leather belt, with Us "Sam Browne" strap crossing: tha cause It IK so like ' tho smart Sam shoulder. There !s n broad box p3ea1 Browne belt.'of-thfr masculine uniform j down the front of the-coat, anil th* ·Is only- supposed; lo be w o r n when its | pocket? are n t either sid* of 1 his plsnt. ... a _ , . _ _ _ JthftkJ, and sonic of the J bloomers', of k h a k i , - a n d with stout raiment for special, sorts of sport are l f a o o t s that lace hl sn on lhe Ie and 1'WEEK-END . FOUNDATION SKIRT .F ALL THJ3" interchangeable garments designed for economy's · sweet sake, this weok-end foun- 'da'tibn skfrt bears the palm. It Is of 'white Georgette or crepe do chine and is machine pleated in tiny, dainty box pleats from belt to hem. It may be worn in the morning, with a smart blouse and velvefsport jacket, in tie afternoon -with.*, slipover tuni*: of-, silk or chiffon beaded or embroidered; i n ' the evening with another tunic of chiffon and beads, sleeveless and* decollete in cut. All theae accompanying wearables can be rucked into a small traveling: bop except the sport jacket--and that may be carried over bright rubber, and. of course, one the arm or donned with a serg-e sport would carry a red. umbrella lo.maich skirt and tailored silk-waist for the tho'enp." " ' , . 1 short journey out of town. FcSScFrc^^ ui meet the edffe ofthe bloomers. An keep attractive raincoat that will His wearer dry and cheerful "anywhere behind, - t h e lines" ia . of black rubber in bolted uniform style. To go with it there is a rakish cap of HY IX. .THE'WORED did. not I ready for-carrying-, is no longer than somebody think of it before; j a penknife. The hinged htadle of the toothbrush thai folSs xip i imiiatiou ivory: or amber fits over the to half i^s length? Toolb- brush for protection of the latter. brushes are ungainly things to carry, ' one li not taking a traveling bajr with-one lor an 'over-night s-tay. They convenience, are too ]ong to fit In the average purse or handbag or to be hidden in a i pocket of one's coat or skirt. "Don't : bother to bringr anything but your toothbrush," is the familiar admonition of one woman to another "ft'ben an informal over-nlpht invitation is given;, but, indeed, i h a t toeiljbrush Is--or has been--a cumbersome thing to carry.. A small comb, a little mirror, · a folding button-hook, a vanity outfit could all be melted into a 1h«- and the whole device is a great addition" to the traveler's comfort and atre - reticule,' but .no toothbrush handle would bestow itself t h u s ' " ' TASSBtiS OX TABLE LINEN C ASSELS have crept out of their place in the sartorial realm to decorate dining-room linena. It is a long lime since fcass«Is have been-used on lambrequins and upholstered chairs, but perhaps the Invasion of the-dining-room -with tass«led trimmings marks their return. Square breakfast tea cloths have colored tassels swinging from the four corners, the colors matching . the Florentine n " embroidery on the linen cloth. A cuopAly.--one bad ' t o corr- It j sideboard cover of linen and filet has wrapped up in paper, or leave j a trimming of narrow -white fringe, It at home altogether. Now corrms ! a nd white tas?e]s decorate each cor- the foldinjf toothbrush which, wh*n I n e r ' o f f7t* cover. way boots that suggest these, qualities,, reserving: .morft -frivolous' 'foot-cover- i cars,* han.d-work;iii(r:,i young- women ^ to look" rt at .indeed --RS they. nit abou atvheadquartej-s,. and- Jump : Inio,. their anyTthWe. "at any time I ors r £KA of sqfl browns, - dim blues and , old , rose"-' seem* C'-Jto have .pa««d In h'ouae decoration; contrasts-.jiiuUrateiis* col- ' * ffi.Y».,theVhpjpe' that touch of-.IndlviduaUty .tht\inpd\ era .householder demonda; 'landlords; of apartm«nt houses are. -.distracted' . th«e 'days ~with what theyj-'cpnBldeT" inaan* requests .for .radical·. changes' in Interior arranjements. .The room- tKat wa's - intended -bjv ther arehlteci ~tor- it- diviln^-room and ^"suitable *f or-. aidUri^ ln.?-room by,all- laws of'-custom.. and propriety, from · the. landlord's ; poinc of vJftW, must become "a-^bedroom/ because it has -batter-alriand"more/sun- light, and : 9Qi1lclent space_.-fprVtwln oeds, so tbe^ate moulding, an^'the " lanffingr domeifor table : ;light' 1 must-be taken down^'a:nd_put' up; again^i'ii the small room^pfi, the liv 1 ---------.**·-? service. ts : difficult to fEORATIONS -tiiiJc ^perceptiotp- a.--yery: clever result ;fs )ften/obtalne"d;:'sometimes.the striy- '" ·'"'" "pr^nallty v and .individuality' : Is . . . . fortianate.'...When the horae.ib ·pacious,::with-.a'-nuKnbsr of food sized 'r,6pns,'ana-.6ffers''opportunity for the ·magnificent'distances pictured in illus- trAtlpnsS'of-- hpme-;decoratlon niaga- ^nes,-.ivell-aiid;'gopd; but these effects; foreshortcncd^-and;: jumbled -in ' tiny apartnieiit-h'ouse^interioni, are not so' happyr.-^Rfff ^^tteh r *Iii'the latter;case',' "th'e'nvbnoTo/ne^pr'duot'oae treatment of' sWe-ritr frpbmif* iand-.. hall^-thrbwing .ap'.welii "chosen color. . - , . . . gle-cu'bVcleV;d^"cprat«d UP"to^'the I tcift-V ofj;niddern '. :: fancy. In,;Jntense 1 ' r ' - f i a l a n c e i * ' b l a c k lord can ."be coaxed pr r threiiteiie4j t^ . d o jt--^ind-the. : kitchen-wairsj.finisft^d in tv/o-tona paper, t'ne uhr.empvabje. »JnJc camooflayed'"iri one way;.pr:Van^ other by »^scr«tni 'or* 'a:tall console! *ab!e pushed over if..- . ·;··.-' '.v^.* ·'·'-·' * - Tie fretury for individuality Sains mv*ry dar^-^Erwybbifly- Is'catchiiicvth'o- . j(«T«r/Mo4^ Home-makers reiwl^iLjjduV 1 and "each largo .noughi .procei»vp£rknitr- and ?yhlte.:sat " ' . . tli'. red strips v flanklnir;thtf: . a great .ru'sh to [· EeciirG.""..pretty. .boots and slip- perg..'.before! .the siorn ,edJe:t recently reported" - anc'nt · footwear goes into i.; Women's'shoes, say the Powers ·Bp; are ; to'mGasure!not'morG than pifi_ht; inches .high; Vail , supernuoiis tlmminss,_sijch as ' wlntr 'tips, fancy tops and -colprcd'-. strappings, are'to be eliminated, 1 and--wotild you'"bell eve lt?-r-ther'e ja a dark.Klnt that'.femlnin- .y is Koing to be deprived,-oC the .but- (ohed.boptj , There Is an extra, flap of leather, 'you Moiow*. in the' buttoned ipot-- the..flap', which holds -the but- Lonhqles--and-this Ti : 6t'a necessary flap, Eike the cuffs of- men's trauscrs, pocket flaps'and other such trjcksy''additions riot -actually Deeded for covering up the anatomy", have-got to g o . _ . ; - ' : So autumn -'boots' a-rc S"oing · to be laced, v and ;;theyr' T arc-.s:olnEr, to":.be lower ln. 1 "heig-ht-rrnot.a. very.promising combination^ as far as graco and dain- tanelss are/coh'cernetl.- Ono hopes that nobody wHl/retnemb'er'that long, polht- ed To'cs'take, a bit'more leather than short, 'stubby, ones;,'for.-it would be faced;"·'short-varnpod "dress 1 -hoots for vfts, *oft-solel shoes- that offer no support whatever. Tho well-cut canvas j under the ban as representing a superfluous and extravagant-use of valuable leather. . - j sport shoes, with firm, welted poles of The tennis shoes, very smart (or this j r u°ber/are quite different. They sup- summer's wear, come also under the I p o r t ' t h e arch ^ ' l h e 3DSIe P' and do bun-to-be. The toe and hecl'tlps of.col- ored, leather are superfluous, .;,». sec, , . from a strict standpoint 'of utility. Yen* dainty, indeed, are these'tennis shoes, of. white buckskin wkh blue "The outcpm.Q-of tlip mov^nionl ot- hldcs^-cind. skins' ifrorn SoutR America and eiaewhere/tKe ;Brl(Uth; Import embargo, anri : the o'vor-p'urc;iasing of | kid trimming, effective])" perforated to footwear by: cor.s'.im'ers and distributors, has been an. extensive accum.ula- tton of raw .materials In New .York and vicinity, and .'.buyers of 'leather are willing- to· business' only at price concessions,-.whiln-shoe denlci's naturally look for.·-lower .costs."' This make. 1 !' cheerful reading; one hopes there" may-be jomethlnff In It. shotv the white buclis'kln ihrbugh. Sucli shoes a r e ' m u c h "more, ·graceful no\y than Jiueltess .footwear used to be.'.' Th'tfrij Is, In fact, ia. .very slight lUt of the heel', though the sole is so gracefully curved- that, one ctooH not notice!, the low heeJ (hat safeguards tho arch of the foot. Tennis shoes o( .this sort are .so carefully shaped and and; not allow the foot to flatten broaden as T h e softer-shoes do. Very good looking walking" shoes for early autumn- days are .in "''laced style, with straight military heels. They are made : of black. v -Hussia/ calf, with, gray buckskin (ops. or 'of dark tan calf,. with fawn-colored-tops. Ex- It ma'y o r - i t m a y - n o t b a - a source of stitched that the foot does noc-spread, comfort v\ hen., the .-next-shoe salesman : and coarsen -in''contour--as ,lt-~ uaed n.ext ;-vv.fnterJ"- w-q«Jdsbe': skir,ls . "that '' 'result the , rro'uijd,: ; boc-ausc, .un3bubi;ed.ly; the fascinating fdoLwear"f.of- recohti-seasons has''' had' /as much*. : i ji3'^gpp(i^ : common senae :tp--.^o with boro-fo'r'tab'io.. '-"short iklKS;' ::'··';!·. · · - '·^V;V^''-'''''''^ · ' · " " ' , · ' ' ifi.OVio 'i3"/-qulte sure; ---however-- and :ak'e;s hcri ot .sricOjttfy'i^hViSwurancc" rTJtZiat someho'iv or '.'ojtHcrJ^o Quakers. nd;;aS wa.y'.tb.- nj^k'e- feminine' just rflye .as", ever.';-; At^any.' rate,. - v j 'us : some; 'amount, \ve. ja'vje ;tq:\p'ay:;'Cto'. n lc6 i ep '"'our ·'feot^ : pre-^.^: ;..,L ^v*. · · - - - ^ ' · " · ' ' ' ^v^^ivicwi^^p^^g^ you enconnler agrees with you that twelve dollars is a rather stcp price for the .new boots h'e is iacing on your foot--but bog's'-you. to consider the scarcity-of, leather.'just-upw! - From the way women are buying' oxfords it.loqks as-though Iheac shoes u-ere srcips 1 to be worn far into tho au- Lumn; and,-f.ncleedV there is ho good _reas.ori u',^y' i th6y'5h.oulJ not be. There are days, evQniate/in November^ \vhen oxfords .are''.'quite ^as comfortable 'and correct as^a-Tiig:h shoe, and many we' ' - h e y . - w l l l - yJ:ear. t h e d a i n t y .ojfforda''"alt .winder TV i^ buttoned spats ' in f tlie street. These Fr'encfi heeled oxCqrds, ^noslly of shl ^ Ing patent .-leather; "ore .correct with formal . costumes only.' .The tailored .Lrotabo.ut.-suit or frock demands lo-n heeletl^. mannish 'oxfords "or pumpf preferably of niahogany - colored leather.. ..Woman liavo.-become so ac- custorned to - their ··low-haeled', 'mannish walking ahbes'-now, lUlcr'natitig. them with hoolless'.tfinnls' and yachting'shot, in ·suinmer:-tiin'.i r -.that" ; Fre'ncb :ii'e«I are seen less a-mt. ;]o$s-on; tlie-; street, except'.;wifh'. cpstvirnes' 1 that. trayet' by v tasi-rrrbr.· iiniousinei Of 'course; the aainty'Jroe'It .d'em'anSs dainty footwear, A foulard.''or Georgette gbwh.for : a fo mal' / afternpoiti .'occasion.-, would be (luite.-spoileo^.b'y iow-heelod, manni h piimpS'-'of ";"the :bort -'pictured, yet the e " to in more carelessly made outing footwear.' No woman who values the slender lines of - her'.feet. will, ever yield to the temptation . ot canvas "sneakers,"-however comfortable hey may be for tennis coyrt, sailboat deck or -camp .wear. Inevitably the foot ·will broaden and" grow'larger i f ' m u c h ictive exercise-'is*taKen;__in 1 ';these "can- Walking"Eqnjps."pf -·A.Xaho^au^ Colored r l.ua(h«r-Av~U!i::\Smurt 7 S(hoJiing AIH? PeforutJons, 'Worn \yitli ~tiipcl SiocUings Ol Fine Wool. " ; · _ elusive shbos'fbr-dress-up'occasions---' one ven'turas.. to ..assume-'so., muuh be- ; cause tlie 'price is ; sixteen dollars Lhe'i pa:r! -- are ' brpivn- patent. Moriern-- Tennis' Shoes Have No Jlliit Of Clrimsuicss. Their Graccfal Ijlhcs'And Uninty Trimming MakclSit Foot Attractivcly-.VoutlitiiJ. separately.; s and for the buckles one may pay anywhere from three to ten dollars. ' T h e £ hop wiil put them oa, most obHging'Jy,' for notiiine--after ono has purchased them. It is notable, however, that the yerj best dressed .women at fashionable featherings, are wearing pumps' and Dippers' absolutely unti-Jmmed by buckles or bows; [the long, $Jim toe o! t h e pump merslng without break into the . a r c h e d ' H u e - o f ' t h e silk-clad instep One must wear a size or two longe* £ h o c - - f b a n ordinarily in these' long, slim models, else: one's new footwear will,pinch rathci;;criicJly over the in- stop or-behind- the licel after a few with . tops o'f olive;;kid.?kiri;;-; ^Iiesc j fours' wear, pretty shoes have : ih* lightest-sort of.;- The brocade -dancing 1 slippers pic- turned soles and extreme -'.'pouts XVI. rured are. very cxrliislve models, and heels; Brown, patent.Jo'atheri Jis ii Is" · - ·- called, is quite the .thing just .now," itnd there, are '. attractive' 'oxfords' and buckled pumps of 'tVis material, ie- Hghtiully soft and comfy'on the fool, because of the thin,.turn."ed: soles and upple .quality ..of-'. thV ki'dskin. :One represent the mom fastidious and particular, taste in slipper wear at the mom'cnu . -Such slippers come, in all the evening shades, in satin, brocade or silver "cloth. They have the lightest, most- fairylike soles and beautifully .curved. h'e els covered with the slipper pumps ^are; .extremely;" smart- and correct.- ^for Tvear.7-Vj'th. 'any'-'-taiJored cos- t "" i Se^- 1 '-Th'cy.- .aj-e-; dafki.i rnahp^u.ny in. B*iuY'fwyn'^fip5""ti J a^t^ 33ie Uoot I^piryllkev aua|llty;-;'^3ipectin"g? to ".add; the. buckles | dollars 'the'pair ; ' · ' · ' '" buys ft;pair, ; :of -Rum-p,* ot 'thJs-aiiperJor fabric^.;- They cost from .six to twenty

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