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THE DAILY COURIER,'- CONNELLSVUXB, PA." /f4^ Â·,,Â·,' -~ --' Â« Â· . I Tfade a'w-. iri Hush-room *?hs-pÂ©. .Midsummer Brings Its Invariable Picturesqueness ~ -In Millmary-- Tulle for the Formal Hat, and . ; Rbses.Too If One Will -- Smartest Sport Hats Almost Without Trimming. T JTJBY. .especally if one is.plan- .*_vacation trip, two or VHrÂ«* otw "hata are absolutely ; eaÂ»*nti%l. " Hat Btylcs change .*v*ry Â·IiVÂ«lc5-no-w,"instead of every iÂ»U;oaoiths;-ftV..they;.u3ed;to.dr..la the copdi'old.'.daya^of the nineteenth cen- tVTr--twenty .yeare ago, aliaost,-now: Xlut let,not the vacationer Indulge too lavishly in .midsummer mlllinory. twmpted'hr the fascinating display of aaedtl*' eÂ», t every 'hand,- for by August tbÂ» lirat early a-utumn chapeaux will bÂ« dvporatinr shop windows--and the m*Â«Â«nt these new:aeaaon. models ap- p*Â»r,-. whether .on* disapproves of Â· "thu* rushinr the reason" or not, it ^Ji.--limeBtably true th*t no summer " Jiit, 1 'Jiowever 'sturininy'in 'itself, can ifcatv* tbÂ« cachet of amartneH.. A hÂ»t or two, nevertheless, the aver- **Â· *Â«nan-must-positively have for "Ijer_ aajottrn,toy. hill or Bea; something freeh Â»nd enchantingly bwjoming for Â«Â«*Â·:,'-War with -dainty frocks, and Â»oÂ»Â»thinf . knowingly modem for morniBT. *wear: Tvith sport -costumes. Am* vÂ»ry P*o1bÂ«hly,.something- new ana ffao4-looklsff for travelicg, also. The WJM woman. knawi that a hat counts fÂ«r^KÂ»' wy."-aiÂ«ch when she goes . Â«MÂ»ef utraiiarwi-^-alinost snore than all : ..tbÂ» .revt'-of .the costume put to- pvUUr. A Btnnninr hat ran carry oft a-mediocre frock, but no frock can hope'-, to Accomplish tha same trick witll.m-ihabjbjr or out-of-date hat, A KÂ«w Sport Bat Of Sketch Plaid , '.%. ..- ' .. Â· Straw A-'.brlÂ«ht colored little sport sailor 2Â»s na'de.ita appearance just in time f07. vacation iw'ear. It la woven of Â·traw and a kiltie plaid paUerc In col-' orwi threads- intersects the straw Â·traJMU. -A-band of plain colored silk , of'iatin li wound around the crown aiid" It,'!Â· Altogether a cool,' cbmfort- aWÂ»'and wnart'llttle affair for morn- 'Injr w*ar with cotton fronfcs and sport Mtt*, 1 , Another new sport sailor la pic- . round shape of coarse ;b*nd'Â»d'wJf.h sill; drawn -into 'a-honeyeomb or smoocked Â·ffaet that'lraltatea the straw weave at the Â· hat ' Graceful streamers of grwgraln ribbon trail'over the brim at;eÂ«Â« Â»IdÂ« and may be twisted about "tliÂ«,.throat OT allowed "to fall forward ever the shoulder. 'The pictured hat *ta.-Â«t*Â·Â·ray : Â«'raw with smocked band and streamers m navy blue; and the hat- comes- also in tan straw with brown band and streamers. Smartest Sport Sailors Arc Idttlc Trimmed The best dressed women are wear' ing: sailors of\ rough straw banded only with grosgrain ribbon; or high- crowned, narrow brimmed .sailors of very fine milan straw with the narrowest of ribbon bands. These hats depend on thefr material and shape rather than on. any charm of trimming- for distinction, and black straw sport hats of this type are exceedingly good looking" with sport costumes rich In color. There is also the pompon sailor, wide or brim, with rather large crown, and with a cluster of silk -pompons tucked into the angle of crown and brim toward the back, at one sido. All the sport hats have larg-e craw.-ni, so that they fit down well over the head, coming to the line of eyebrows and" ears. The hair is puffed over the ears to show beneath the low-worn hat, and a grood many women, this summer, are using- the artificial ear- puffs which give the fashionable coiffure effect under the hat yet keep their soft fluffy wave, however damp or humid the weather. Flattened Jlowcr Petals A favorilc Trimming- Between the tailored sport hat and the elaborate fete hat, comes the semi- sport .hat; a summer chapeau of all- R.-ouad usefulness for it may be worn with morning or afternoon frocks, or even with the traveling costume. These hats are in the most charming shapes, thir year, and they are o f t e n far more becoming than the tailored sport hat which looks wall only with costumes of spic-span, tailored type. A semi-sport hat of the kind under consideration is pictured In the large model, with brim rolled back' to five the continental, or three-cornered line. This hat, you-fiee, would look -.veil with a foulard afternoon frock, or a Ring- hara morning- frock. It could accompany an organdy successfully--if one were staying somewhere without a .large supply of headcoverlncrs to select fron. The hat in the picture Is a model of flexible straw, faced under the brim with blue silk. The crtep and dashing aeroplane bow Is made of blue ribbon and a (ouch of strong A.YV Infoir?TnslPicLar - iiTX x^Sorxvir*xiSiv .Â·Â©Â·5--- TJIfte tY*i^=p ^oplHTi-e- "BovrUffi Bunch of Cherries ; Lar h,e tint Co*" Mtet on Affair's -- OfPa.Y-pIeSJ.YSW. fLaL i% ^msll and Hal. for* General color is given by the cluster of rosy cherries that dangle below the ribbon bow. dome of thtiSe uheful .semi-sport hats are trim met) w i t j i wings; and more a::ti moro mode-Is are appearing each rJ:iy wlrh tho crushed flower crown 1 rimming, noted on a few, very exclusive French hats earlier In the season. The effect has evidently caught popular fancy, for it Is fast becoming a hallmark of the midsummer season in millinery. The big- white Mowers, usually of velvet, are spread out flti* nnd appllque'l io t h e Â·crown, not Inferforlns with 'the line ( o f the h-i*. but nlmosr hi dine fhfÂ» ;op and sides of the crown. One sees the big white velvet flowers, in pansy shape (much enlarged of course) ap- pllqucd on hats oC dark milan, and on coarse straws of lighter tono. A particulorly pretty hat of thi's'type !a of navy blue straw, 1 faced with white satin, and trimmed with white velvet a-ppliquod pansfes. Transparent HÂ«fs A Mid.Â«Â»rnmcr Craze The hat of Georgette or of organdy Is more th.in pretty--it. is Jiffht ns a feather to wear; and this i5 something to consider when every added ounce of wardrobe is a burden .on a mld- snmmtÂ»r day, ThÂ»Â«e dainty transpar- ent bats are a fad of the hour-- r one cannot call them In any sense an economical investment. The!r vog-ue will soon, pass and they must bo discarded after a few \vneks 1 r,-ear for a Georgette or.organdy JiÂ«L can never be repressed and retrirnm'ed another sen- son a? a model of good quality straw can be, Â· Â· Â· But thpro Is no doubt that tha transparent hais are- fetching affairs and one must absolutely, have one if she can! A checked organdy poke shape in blue and white has. a big bow of blue ribbon ncross the back; another poke of pink and bine ! checked organdy is trimmed with a band of patent leather on which is hand painted a garland of little roses. There are large sailors of blue GeorgetU crepe ivith white satin sash banded around, the crown and fallinp in fringed ends'at'one side; nnd there are perfectly Irresistible hats of pale pink embroidered Georgette with transparent mushroom brim and "crushed b?rnd of the pink .crepe tied in a butterfly bow at the bach. The Fctfc Hat AH Tulle And Flower-? But discussion of the transparent sport, hats has broug-ht us into the realm ,of formal, or fote hats forTnid- Kummor days. Â· It Is dimcult, when one groes. away for a short vacation, to carry alon^ a hfit of this son, but It must be "done, by hook" or by crook, this year! Nobody poe? rmtless these days. find the prnciire would be specially bad form at any afternoon affair formal enouph to make an elaborate frock essential. .There. are so many war relief entertainments t h j p summer --iR.wn parties, out-of-door bazaars [veranda bridge parties, and the like; one simply must patronise these affairs, at whatever summer resort one happens to., bo staying; and ouch occasions demand the- very prettiest coÂ«- i umes at one's command. The organdy or chiffon frock will not be of ( m u c h use unless there'be, to accompany it, something ravishing in the war of millinery. MORI of these midsummer fete ha-ts are swathed with tullea, over or under the brim--sometimes In both . The -big hat pictured has yards of white tulle, attached at the back In streamers, and these streamers wind about the throat and partly over the face in most becoming .style. The hat, itself, is of Seffhorn, and the brim Â· has be'en slashed and. slipped part way up the- crown, at the back, to give a poke shape to the hat. The crown IP made of shirred pink chiffon and Is banded with heliotrope velvet ribbon, tied in a fiat bow at the left side. Some pale pinkish-mauve silk roses fill in the hollow between crown nnd. brim at the back, and on the crown, bolow the turned up brinj '.-i arranged the tulle bow with its long ; streamers. Another picture hat illustrated to- c'ay Is of violet colored straw with a facing of pale violet witJn. The shape Of the brim is very Â· graceful, shading without eclipsing the face. Roses and shaded purple asters are arranged ihickjy around the crown and there Is a bow "of soft, wide violet satin ribbon on the brim, across the "back ol the hat. Traveling hats for midsummer are smalJ, smartly shaped aftnlrs o* straw, w i t h wing trimming or aeroplane bows of ribbon That gives dashing expression and-vivacity to otherwise dignified and demurt'.nuie turban shajjos;- FRI ; GE3 IS FASHION" HE PASSIOX for" fringe is not abating and many of the summer frocks show fringe- on sash- pnd?, on The bottom' of tunics, on cellars and cuffs and on slashed draperies. The new fringes are oi silk, of wooi, of cotton, oÂ£ chenille and of beads. Tassels play their appropriate part in a season of fringe trimminjr, of course, and some frocks have tassels half a yard long- dangling from ihe sleeves or the shoulders. Vc ry d atniy a re the narrow silver fringe trimmings' which add brightness to evening Irocks of chiffon and Georgette cre-pe, and tht weight of the silver fringe makes the aoft fabric . hang In exquisitely graceful lines. i J HETHEH one wears calico or chkrmftaae these days, an ab- Â·oiut* necessity of the cos- "tuihe'i'j a. smart and more or ItM'itHking'-handbags And the mar- v*l;'iÂ»,. how. so ..many of these bas mataac* to bÂ» striking- and Individual, tii .*,Â»***m .whÂ«n -"no two handbags _Â»*Â«a. to.-ba. milk*. It .Is eaqy to be -Wtaetive Â· when"-sill;the rest of one's w*Â»TlA,.h*Â»,:thiÂ» : monotony. of-sameness; but when .'distinction is to be met on .tyÂ«ry-. na.nd,,-.-'the'r;, ."if you please, is il;.,Individuality and noticeable t Â· to; aichiwa! -. However. i of ;haadbairn have manag-ed 'to a-QCoapltah.. it. Â· Never were 50 nicy Â·trikini; and bsautiul .bags, no two aUkÂ«,'Â»*"Â»rÂ« ,to .be seen.this jum- "- inÂ«r;'"" OmÂ«- tarty carry -an enormous '"Â·lilt., reticule -or thÂ» tiniest-of leather : purÂ«*ta, ~or--:Sf one prefers, a *d bay; or oneomade of'beads and 1 sJHi. It I* all the same to Dame --Â·FÂ«*Mon,vJj'roYided ths bag is .exactly -Â·Â· rlÂ»ht,-D;ltrkind. . . . . Â·"- :'"ThÂ» hÂ»ndaimeÂ»t- : of ths beaded -bags *Â· com* from Franc* and Italy and the Wft. harmonious -colorings and orig- - inallty ot design reflect .the genius of --criftMnen.;. skilled by long .years of _tealÂ»ihjr-,ln this work. Designs for A thÂ«fÂ«;bacm .are created first in water color by "expert artists and the pat- twi^i are "cioiely followed by the n-ork- "'ersVwho'/lo'-ttiÂ« beading Sometimes " 'til**-pattern 'tor- a vrry exclusive bag " "it sketched by. an Jirtlst directly on - thÂ« ; caavM .that will form Us foundn- -jaÂ»o material," This canvas is stretched Â·/Â·In: the usual-way Ion a -wooden frame - aÂ»d the beading is done, over the col- ! 0rtd pattern, vÂ«ry gradation of tone ! .,. eartCuily.followed by the.worker. Most | ...ol-.th'.esjfe han.d'rmade beaded bags have \ ,.yjry lhandsome' frames of shell or i Dutch : Â»iiver, sometimes inset with \ ' preelou-i atones. Without jewels in" its , " frame "such" a' bag 'may be had .for! ifeoiit' th'frty"dollars or ^over; when , "'leweJsi.afft'addied tho price may range ":o-.'alnaotf any heig-ht, depending on '.'Â· Â·Vtfy.gooA looking; .manufactured . bays "ot.~tlje 'beaded type may be had : r .~foc;'ubstantlally - Iras Â· price; but the -wÂ»Â»an who !Â· clever with her needle aÂ»A7p*rsev*rinp of temperament can 'Â· .Â·Â«Â·,..Â· *bÂ«auU2ul hand-made, beaded i .-^MJ-rif-jrhe'-is'-iirtlHaff "to 'do the bead- i (1. Â»nd bÂ«e.ds, pattern, frame, \ Â»Bd tbraad for iirorktn.fr, ivUl i not cost her over flvo dollars. Such a ba.g will bo a joy to Its possessor, and will la^t long enough to become a family heirloom. Very old Lags, beaded by maidens of a hundred years and more ago and prissed from m c t h e r to daughter down the generations, arc being" brought out now and freshened up with nÂ«' mountings; and many of these long-ago fashioned bags are more distinguished and beautiful than any of 1 he modern specimens. The most prized patterns of ancient art are the landscape and figure effects and some of these are exceedingly quaint, The design of Chinese flgureK 'in one of the bags illustrated -*vas copied from a beautiful old reticule of the Chinese Chippendale period. In some of the new beaded bags, -siuede is effectively combined with the beaded -pattern. One interesting- example shows a lattice design of white beads over rich blue suede, the blue color, showing in diamond shaped motifs through, the white lattice. Around the edge of the bag Is a scroll border in blue-gray beads, the scroll running out into the white outline of the lattice pattern. Beads are used with silk and with satin very effectively, the beaded design forming a stripe or plaid on the silk background. One such bag is of navy blue satin with Venetian beads and a frame- of Imitation amber. Another bap shows n i plaid, part of f h e plaid navy blue taffeta, with beads In green, blue, coral and ^arnoi forming ihe ovt-r-plaid pattern. This bag lias a Jado green rrjii/ie. Silh or voivot bags with monograms done in beads are very attractive: and the monograms are the new sort. In geometric forms, the three letter? shaped to nt into a circle, diamond, oval or other device, A biack velvet bag with monogram outlined in cut 5t,:el beads is extremely Bnmrt. The lining is of white satin and a lontr black =-iik tassel acids distinction :.o tho bag-. Tassels -swing: from every third basr these days--that is, if the bag Js of silk or other soft fabric.' Tho big b.-igs have huge tatfls that might have been cut from trappings worn by. horsrs at funerals of other days; and tassels grade downward in sir.e to-tiny affairs that trim the cord handles of little vanity bags. Tho woman of fastidious taste absolutely refuses to .use imitation leather. If she cannot havo a handbag of real seal or its ilk, she chooses one of silken fabric, and the range of fabrics -suitable for handbags Is so wide that manufacturers--aware of t.hc dffltastc for i m i t a t i o n leather among women who buy the best qualities in accessories--are n voiding the.=e imitation leathers as much as they -can. Some- of the new French bags have highly polished wood frames, or frames of -wood lightly trimmed with metal and the e'flcct is excellent. It is prbphcaled that wood frames for handbags will almost entirely replace metal frames very noon. Two naw bugs, one of. silk, the other ot leather, arc pictured and moat women will pronounce ' t h o silk bag much tho more- desirable model. Jt is ma.de of dull green and bhte sflk In imitation of a Chinese embroidery dc- sign-and the frame'. Is, jade color. Inside Is K. lining, of pale 'saffron silk. knitting ba$y aro pictured; OPO intended for pocks or other small articles, the oiher for the full size sweater. The small bag: is made of black faliie silk and flowered warp-printed taffeta In yellow and old pink ton^p. A vandykod frill of the floweret! sitk Is attached at 1)10 center,' hiding the Joining: scam. The handles are of black grosffrain ribbon. The larger ba^ is made of deep blue satin and ;na.s a strip of Chinese brocade in bhie-;ind silver gray at the editor. The stuffed With The Afternoon Costiiinc She Carries A Stunning Bag Of Green And BIu( Silk Clasped "With Jndc"; Or A Sofrtv DnipecTBag Of Fine Fin Seal. With Ribbon HunOIc. Most Exclusive Aro The Bended Bags Ami Some Of'Them Sliow Qimlm Oriental Figures In Splendid Color Effects. Knitting And Shopping- Reticules For Summer Use; One Trimmed With A Silk , The Other With Stuffed silk: Fruit. The second bap la ftf .fine .pin seal with a sunmctal 'frame. . The handle, or wrisl.-strap Is of gray '.ribbon. This ribbon wrist-strip is'.a.new notion and Is to -be noted on..many of the new handbags'of. Iratnef.' "With tailored-suits; o f . serse, linen' or'homespun, the, small..leather 'strap'.purse is'considered sro'od style. These little purses; or slrap-pocket.b.ooks, are made of suede, of, pin ^seal 'tind'of'-the glossy black...vaschotte leather, which has n special smart-ness-'of its own.- An obtonff strap-pockeibook oC black vnschette. is "lined with scarlet sJJki and the clasp*, o f - d u l l - g i l t encloses a medaHiori'-of deep red^coral. Â· . Of, course, -just .'at this time, the capacious reticule which will hold one's knitting- .has particular, .interest. Woman carries her - knitting-- bag about with her-most.of 1 the,tlme; only occasionally does she'set'forth, with a small purse or "handb'ag.' .Two'new silk tomatoes aro in. blue, .copper and old'pink tones. SHORT. SLEEVES BRIXG BACK IiOXG GJTjO'VKS. C ' . H E ' ADVENT of .elbow sleeves means! 'of -.course,! a,'- return of long; gloves. Already (hey are here, and' ono no(cs thej- are or- niunental affairs,, qui'ce different from the plain hand'-covcrinsrs . that fashion, has approved " for many soasons- pasfc. Some now. white silk', gloves In twelve-button Jerigrth, just over from Paris, have deep turned-down cufCs of blue . and ' \vhlte striped silk; Â· the- Etitchingr on the back oC the-srlfive-is ratlier heavy,.and 1 .blue, also..- Instead of the long wrist portion t\hat; slipped over the arm, with two .b'u'f.tpns.'ijusf above the- palm, the new elbo'w 1 stove' has a top that buttons/all ..the. way up from palm to turned-down cuflT.. and the buttons are of'bluc'smoked pearl/ QUILTING, QUILTING EVERYWHERE O MANNER! of. trimming" Is smarter. t h a n , quilling this .season; - a n d 'beautiful quilling is quite as difficult to do as beau- tit'L'J. embroidery. -The stitches must be .tiny and perfectly eveni' and the lines'of.'th'e paUcrji.-must bo. perfectly 'spaced so..that-the design will show xip effectively..A very-handsome frock of midnight- blue tnffo.lti', seen, the other" ds/y at the Hl-'z.'- had' a tunic, bordered with eiprht/lnche? of'qeilttngr. and the : .pattern was.'repeated on' 1 the sleeves and on panels" at back and front of the^bodice. "To maki-'qiiiUinfi- of this'.sort'-the material ]s-underlaid with very.' : -th'r' shcetrwaddins and 'he quilting- stitches-'are FC.I- lhro_iiKh The ou*r-r_ mnlerial and ihe vj3-ldlng. Then the quilted' portion Is-faced with thin silk, or 'wUlv ; thc"matorihl of the frock If it.is not too-h^avy. Quihwl anpora is especially-.smart just now. Vesta of quiUe'd'.'aJi'gora, show in. the open: fronts of" new' cape-coats, and there are Vaisicoats'of quilted anjrora for wear -n'Jth street "suits,. Such a waistcoat . -'accompanies ' a taupe 'eh'erlot- suit;; : the waistcoat beinff in Hffhter taupe 'shade';'and the" quilting 1 .'s'-don'e iyllh-srJ31']iE-h'ter 1 laupe"5illi; A blue--cloth cape'Is-lined with scarlet Â£atln.,nnd .has a. blue..angora vestce : Qul3tÂ»d Â·elaborately, 1 ^ with'.red' allk-'' KNITTED TRIMMING ON BATHING SUITS SMART, bathing: suits--Â· those .worn on exclusively faah- ionable : Â»beaches--have knitted collars or squnre knitted yokes, and the bloomers are drawn in a.t thft'"V bouom by knitted bands or " c u f f s " ' ^ f j that come just above the knee, Thesft "cuffs", are about three and a half Inches, wide and are' done in .purllne' . . , stitch so that they cling to the leg and make the usual elastic band un- necejisary. ' A very attractive little suit,-seen, at Soulhampton last week, had a square'knitted yoke of blue and orange worsted in vertical stripes. To Ihis yoke wasalhered the navy b3uo satin tunic. The blue satin Imickers had purled "ciiffs^of blue and orange wool, iho striposr running horizontally. A soft sash 'ot.the blue satin, -worn over the tunic, iiad tassels .of blue and orange wool. "A black aatin suit had a de.-p, pointed collar of whit* knitted wool.. Sash and purled knee- cufCs were "of white wool narrowly striped in black; The purled kn.ee- cuH is knitted separately and sewed to tho edg-O'of the bloora't-r,' or knicker; and the purling must-be.stretched-to its widest extent while the catin bloomer 'is. sewed oh. so that tho drawn-ln 1 purling: will .nt snugly,- rÂ»th- ering- the *oÂ£t-satin with "-it' - . Â· . ' -V.