Sunday Gazette-Mail from Charleston, West Virginia on August 27, 1972 · Page 57
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August 27, 1972

Sunday Gazette-Mail from Charleston, West Virginia · Page 57

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Charleston, West Virginia
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Sunday, August 27, 1972
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Page 57
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7E--August 27, 1972 Sunday Gazette-Mail Chirlwton, .W«* Fashion Now St. Laurent: An Angry Young Designer By Patricia Shelton Yves Saint Laurent »ays he'i "not sad at all" when he sees elegant dressing disappearing on crowds in restaurants, theaters, the streets, and wherever else there are crowds of people. "It's an evolution of life," he states flatly. He's a man of many contradictions. He has just shown the most elegant, luxurious couture collection in all of Paris, yet while store buyers are downstairs blowing the tops off their budgets he's upstairs insisting still that, "The couture is through." For the second straight season he's adamant in his stand that the fashion press can see his April and October Rive Gauche ready-to-wear collections, but only a handful of magazines and trade newspapers are welcome at his couture openings. He's still smarting from criticism heaped on his streetwalker collection a year and a half ago. A few hours after his fall '72 couture opening, we talked in his upstairs office. His hair is cut snorter than it has been in years; he's wearing a double- breasted business suit, and he seems very much a man in control. But he admits, frankly, he's afraid of the press. "The p r e s s could destroy the house," he says calmly. BUT THE press is admitted to the Rive Gauche collections, he is reminded. "That's different," he answers. "I don't understand why. If the press writes bad things about Rive Gauche, people still go to the boutiques to see, and they buy. When the press criticizes my couture, the private customers stay away and the stores don't buy or they buy only the caution (the fee for getting in). Saint Laurent explains that after the collection in January, 1971. "I lost the year. But six months after my collection YVES SAINT LAURENT Sketch by Robert Richards the press was seeing it (the look) everywhere else. 1 have, too, the right to preserve my house. I have responsibilities to my work room, my staff." So do all the other houses in Paris, he is reminded further, but they don't bar their doors. "That's their decision," ne answers. Point granted, but why admit a few press and not all? He insists that a daily trade paper is not "daily press" non-trade people. There's no explanation why certain magazines are banned, while others are not. "The couture is very select, for a very few people. I prefer to give my image of fashion through the ready-to-wear. I think it's more alive, and it's a fashion of today," he continues. HE'S SKIPPING over the fact that downstairs store buyers are placing orders for his flame-stitch sweater suits, tiered cocktail dresses, lame chiffon gowns, beaded sweaters with long pleated skirts and a lot of other models they intend to copy for the American market. "The couture is through," he repeats. Then his love for it exposes it's hold on him. "For me, it's marvelous. It's fantastic to work with artisans. Perhaps it's useful for the ready-to-wear to have this discipline. Couture is the great discipline. If it's outmoded, perhaps it's nevertheless necessary. If I were beginning now, I wouldn't go into couture. There are no more schools in Paris to learn your job in couture. I think I The Camel's Back 100% camel hair coats in three very popular styles Choose double breasted style with set-in sleeves and saddle stitched pockets, single breasted with raglan sleeves and slash pockets or single breasted princess line with back belt and T-pockets. All are 100% camel hair in the popular basic styles. Sizes 6 to 16. Second Floor Fashion Center Charleston Store Onlv TOPVALUE STAMPS, TOO! 10°° Will lay a way your coat 'til October 1st am one of the last (students). I was lucky to work with (Christian) Dior and learn my job. "Fashion is another thing. It is an evolution of life, of what life is. Tastes change. Ideas change. Life moves. We move toward something else--something unknown. New generations who are coming certainly will bring another kind of fashion. It will certainly not be haute coutnre. "I must do what fashion will be, even if it's the contrary of me." Saint Laurent says that although his orders last season were the biggest in many seasons, a couture customer buys 15 things from Rive Gauche for every two or three she buys in couture. For day they have good shirts, good pants, good sweaters and a raincoat. From the couture they will take a coat, something for evening, a special suit. "Before it was not like that. Couture was the important thing," he adds. "Perhaps one day if I continue the couture," he continues, "I will mix couture and ready-to-wear in one show (as Pierre Cardin is now doing). But couture must be the great tradition. It must not be the experiment. It is for the luxury impossible to have in ready-to-wear, for the few who wiU pay the price. It is perfectly possible for me to explain myself in ready-to-wear. That is where I will experiment." ^ SAINT LAURENT, a master of timing who has been probably more influential than any other single designer since the Courreges coup in 1964, says today he has no strong feeling toward change; tomorrow h« may. "Fashion is like a boat in a river," he comments. Soon his own boat will be coming home. Squibb, which acquired controlling interest in his operations through its merger with Lanvin-Charles of the Ritz, is allowing him to buy himself back. The deal, which excludes his perfume and any future cosmetics that may use his name, is expected to be finalized in September. As to the price, he grins and answers, "No price is too high for Saint Laurent." Beyond his Rive Gauche, couture and franchise operations, Saint Laurent also did the costumes and a couple of sets for the current Zizi Jeanmaire revue at the Casino de Paris. If there ever was any doubt about his talent, this show should wipe it out. But he says he will not do another, that he has no time for it now. On the way in through the grand salon to his office, I dawdled as he surely knew I would and looked at most of the 60-piece couture collection. On the way out, I looked again. It's a feast for the eyes --luxury at the optimum taste level. I thought of words I had heard a few minutes earlier 1 "No price is too high for Saint Laurent." 'Shrub' Is Light, Delightful Drink For Summertime By Tom Hoge Tlie Associated Press A delightful summer drink that can also double for dessert is the shrub, a 19th century concoction that won plaudits from author William Make peace Thackeray. This union of sweetened fruit juices and wine or liquors is cooling, not filling and easy to make. It also is an excellent refresher to mix for yourself on the spur of the moment or to prepare in advance for a party. In fact the concoction that earned Thackeray's endorsement as "the best drink that ever was," s h o u l d draw compliments from aoth century sippers. In the early days shrub was aged in glass or wood containers, then strained and served on festive occasions. In the era before modern refrigeration, one of the advantages of shrub as a punch was that it kept well the year round because of its alcohol content. An 1831 cookbook published in Virginia promised that its cherry shrub "will keep all summer in a dry, cool place, and is delicious mixed with water." * * « THERE HAS been speculation that the name shrub indicated that the drink was first consumed at garden parties or that the original fruit used was grown on the bush. But the most plausible explanation seems to be that it is derived from the Arab word Sharab meaning "drink." This is also the root of the word sherbet. Almost any kind of fruit can be used to make shrub, and in the early days it was often made with a mm base. An 1836 recipe for shrub declared "The shrub is indifferent unless the rum is good." In making shrub, one should pre-ehill as many of the ingredients as possible. Put the fruit of your choice through a blender or juicer. If a blender is used, strain the juice to remove all solid fibers. As a sweetener you can use a simple syrup, fruit jellies or bottled syrups. Or you can drain- the juice from frozen or canned fruits, if the flavor is compatible with the fresh fruit used. The ripeness of the fruit will determine the amount of sweetener that should be added. * * * : SHRUB SHOULD he served in a chilled pitcher, carafe or large brandy inhaler. Smother the drink in crushed ice like a mint julep. Clear glass shows off the bright hues of the j strawberry, grape, plum cher- i ry or other fruit juices, used. ' To round out the drink, fill each individual glass with car- j Donated water or champagne, j also icy cold. Garnish the ere- ' ation with mint sprigs, whole ; berries or fruit slices that go ! well with the drink. ; Here is a shrub recipe (hat i should brighten a drowsy j summer afternoon. i RASPBERRY SHRUB i 3 cups fresh raspberries ; 1 cup raspberry jelly i 8 ounces raspberry liqner 6 ounces cognac 6 ounces benedictine and brandy juice nf 3 lemon* Remove stems from the fresh raspberries, put Through blender with the' jolly and strain. Return to blender, add other ingredients and blend well. Pour into large container and refrigerate until ready to serve. After pouring into individual glasses, add champagne at last minute to taste. Garnish with u n s t e m m e d raspberries. Serves 10 to 12 persons. 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