The Atlanta Constitution from Atlanta, Georgia • P14

CChhiinnaa CCaaffee CChhoo LLoonn CChhiinnaa CCaaffee CChhoo LLoonn 3979-C Hwy. Tucker (In Tucker Square Shopping Center) 678-280-0582 Lunch Specials Starting at $2.99 ALL YOU CAN EAT DINE-IN TAKE OUT! LUNCH BUFFET 4 .50 11AM-3PM EAT NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH Seafood, Steak and Sushi Restaurant, 865 N. Main St. (Highway 9), Alpharetta. 678-867-2935.

By MORIEKA JOHNSON FRANCO-ASIAN CUISINE. HMMMM. The union sounded intriguing enough to warrant at least one visit. Either way, dinner at promised a peek into the world of fusion cooking. It was time to see what Alpharetta dining had to offer.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: The copper fountain and koi pond set a soothing, upscale tone. But that Zen-like feeling quickly faded as we passed the bar and patrons mesmerized by the hanging television. The dining space at is loft- like, with a mix of brushed steel, Asian art and touches of pastel lights that change color periodically. (Imagine visiting a home where the owner decide on one design style. Each room has a different feel and every door is always wide open.) Let the fusion begin! We were seated between a businesslike foursome and a pair of elderly couples, with a clear view of the open kitchen and sushi bar.

A jazz band helped set the tone for fuss-free Sunday dining. Meanwhile, the lighted metal sculpture next to our table provided a cool diversion from my view of dishwashers and a scorched towel drying in the kitchen. THE MENU: Appetizers ranged from buttermilk marinated fried calamari to tempura prawns and a Parmesan-crusted oyster Caesar salad. We settled on Tuna Asia, a pyramid of tuna from the sushi bar nestled on a bed of shredded daikon and apple, dotted with caviar and a sweet Asian sauce. The Continued on 15 RATL50710OP14 5 ACCESS ATLANTA EAST 5 Thursday, July 10, 2003 Page 14 Zone 5.