The Atlanta Constitution from Atlanta, Georgia • P14

CChhiinnaa CCaaffee CChhoo LLoonn CChhiinnaa CCaaffee CChhoo LLoonn 3979-C Hwy. Tucker (In Tucker Square Shopping Center) 678-280-0582 Lunch Specials Starting at $2.99 ALL YOU CAN EAT DINE-IN TAKE OUT! LUNCH BUFFET 4 .50 11AM-3PM EAT NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH Seafood, Steak and Sushi Restaurant, 865 N. Main St. (Highway 9), Alpharetta. 678-867-2935.

By MORIEKA JOHNSON THE VERDICT ALTHOUGH BILLED as a Franco-Asian restaurant, the Asian dishes that will keep you coming back. Stick with the sushi and seafood. The friendly atmosphere and live jazz on weekends make this large space a surprisingly intimate option for dining in Alpharetta. FRANCO-ASIAN CUISINE. HMMMM.

The union sounded intriguing enough to warrant at least one visit. Either way, dinner at promised a peek into the world of fusion cooking. It was time to see what Alpharetta dining had to offer. FIRST IMPRESSIONS: The copper fountain and koi pond set a soothing, upscale tone. But that Zen-like feeling quickly faded as we passed the bar and patrons mesmerized by the hanging televi- sion.

The dining space at is loft- like, with a mix of brushed steel, Asian art and touches of pastel lights that change color periodically. (Imagine visiting a home where the owner decide on one design style. Each room has a different feel and every door is always wide open.) Let the fusion begin! We were seated between a businesslike foursome and a pair of elderly couples, with a clear view of the open kitchen and sushi bar. A jazz band helped set the tone for fuss-free Sunday dining. Continued on 15 HOURS: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Mondays-Fridays; 5-10 p.m. Sundays-Saturdays. PRICES: Appetizers, entrees, desserts, sushi, CREDIT CARDS: All major. RECOMMENDED DISHES: Tuna Asia, fried calamari, grouper with shrimp and avocado sal- sa, blackened redfish and sushi. RESERVATIONS: Call-ahead seating.

CHILDREN: Family-friendly. PARKING: On site. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes. SMOKING POLICY: No smoking allowed. NOISE LEVEL: Moderate.

TAKEOUT: Yes. RATL40710OP14 4 ACCESS ATLANTA NORTH 4 Thursday, July 10, 2003 Page 14 Zone 4.