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The Atlanta Constitution from Atlanta, Georgia • 192

Location:
Atlanta, Georgia
Issue Date:
Page:
192
Extracted Article Text (OCR)

M4 Sunday, Feb. 28. 1999 DIXIE LIVING The Atlanta Journal-Constitution Southern Chefs Tom McEachern of 1848 House, Marietta 2 yVvSitv-, Saffron Clam Chowder With Sweet Potatoes -Si Cooking time: 45 minutes Mokes 12 servings Preparation time: 30 minutes 4 4 job of a lifetime in West Palm Beach. It was a restaurant attached to a culinary school, the Florida Culinary Institute. From there, I came back to the 1848." Achievements: "While I was at the Florida Culinary, I competed in American Culinary Federation competitions in October.

I took silver medals three years in a row." Free time: "I love to lift weights. That's what I do before I get here. That way I can come here and eat for about two hours." Style of cooking: "Without a question, French in foundation but seasonal and regional in content." Three things in home refrigerator. "Breakfast items, because it's the only meal I'm home for. A bottle of wine, I green pepper, seeded and diced 1 medium onion, peeled and diced 2 cups heavy cream 3 cups half-and-half I teaspoon saffron threads I 'A cups fresh tangerine juice (about 6 squeezed) 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Minced chives to garnish (optional) 24 littleneck clams, scrubbed Ti cups dry white wine 2 cups canned or bottled clam juice 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped, or I teaspoon dried 2 medium sweet potatoes (about I pounds), peeled and diced 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 ounces pancetta (Italian smoked bacon) I red bell pepper, seeded and diced I yellow bell pepper, seeded and diced ANITTA CHARLSON Staff "Without a question, French in foundation but seasonal and regional in content," says Tom McEachern of his cooking at 1848 House, where he's shown in the original detached stone kitchen.

A the antebellum Greek ZA Revival mansion that's the JtJL home of the 1848 House restaurant in Marietta, chef Tom McEachern has come back to keep what he started on an even keel, and owner Bill Dunaway cdujdn't be happier especially now that the chef has become his solwn-law. She-crab soup and Southern specialties are giyen the elegant treatment of French classicism, raising them to a wlole new level. And old Bushy Park Plantation, the home's original 848 name, has a new role to play in contemporary Atlanta life. Age: 36. fometown: Miami.

Pl-iome life: Married Dawn Dunaway, 27 (daughter of 1848 ovEner Bill Dunaway), a catering manager for Bold American Food, orr Saturday; daughter Emily, 6, from a previous marriage; no critters. Specialties of the house: She-crab soup, anything with stone-ground grits, venison, ostrich, grilled shrimp wrapped with country ham, fried green field greens, poblano vinaigrette, Sweet Georgia Brown (a nut pastry chocolate-pecan tart served with candied pecan brittle and chocolate sorbet). Early KP: "I didn't get started cooking until about age 22. It's kind of funny how it happened. I'd moved to North Carolina and bought a motorcycle.

I'd worked maybe six months in a restaurant in Miami. I said to the owner of the motorcycle, 'I need to pay for this thing. Do you know any restaurants where I could get a He had a good friend about to open a restaurant, so I went there and got a job. The owner thought I was good at it, and he urged me to go to culinary school at Asheville-Buncombe Technical Community College. It was tough.

We started off with 47 in my class, and graduated 11. That's where I met Tom Cdohill, who helped me get started in my career." Background: "I graduated from culinary school, and I think, 'I'm a chef So the country club at Tallahassee flew me down Place clams, wine, clam juice and thyme into a large stockpot. Cover tightly and steam the clams just until they open. Remove clams and take out the meat. Chop the meat coarsely and reserve.

Strain the broth through a double layer of cheesecloth and bring to a boil. Add the diced sweet potato and cook until al dente, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the sweet potatoes and reserve the broth. Heat olive oil in a small frying pan and saute the pancetta until crisp. Then add the bell peppers and onions and sauti until soft, about 5 minutes.

Add the heavy cream and half-and-half, bring to a simmer, add saffron threads and continue to simmer. In a small saucepan, simmer tangerine juice until reduced by two-thirds. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small pan and add the flour to make a roux. Whisk this mixture slowly into the simmering chowder, then add the reserved broth, chopped clams and sweet potatoes and cook for at least 10 minutes, or until potatoes are tender. Add reduced tangerine juice and season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

If chowder is too thick, thin by adding more clam juice. To serve, ladle into heated soup plates and sprinkle with minced chives. Per serving: 365 calories. 1 0 grams protein, 28 grams fat (percent calories from fat, 69), 20 grams carbohydrates, 106 milligrams cholesterol, 313 milligrams sodium, I gram fiber. because I'm a wine freak.

Probably a bottle of champagne. Eggs and cereal, milk and bread otherwise." Who cooks at home? "She does most of the cooking for our meals together, because I don't like to cook at home. I don't like to clean up after myself." What's the one spice or ingredient you couldn't do without? "I can't imagine not having freshly ground black pepper." Who would you like to cook for and what would you prepare? "Wow, I could cook for anybody. Probably my mom. She passed away when I was 8, and I would definitely love to show her what I can do: Cepes, probably.

And she-crab soup." What would you like for your last meal? "A lot of foie gras with a nice Chateau d'Yquem. And I love cepes with maybe a nice veal chop and a mouton, and I'm in heaven." Where to find him: 1848 House, 780 S. Cobb Drive, Marietta. 770-428-1848. Jane Garvey, for the Journal-Constitution Coughing, sharp chest pain, trouble breathing, fever.

The tell-tale signs of pneumonia are nothing new. What's new, however, are tougher kinds of bacteria that doctors call "resistant And they're the kinds of bacteria sometimes responsible for some pneumonia. Here's the good news. Some research doctors are working to develop a means of overcoming these tough kinds of bacteria that cause today's pneumonia. And they need your help in the study of an investigational medication.

You may be eligible to participate if you are experiencing these symptoms of pneumonia now: an excessive cough with green or yellow mucus, sharp chest pain with difficult breathing, and fever. If you qualify and enroll, you'll receive a physician's assessment, study medication, lab tests and x-rays along with compensation for expenses associated with your participation. dental (now at Vidalia in Washington, D.C.). "Thanks to Atlanta restaurateur Tom Catherall, I opened the 1848 House with Bill Dunaway in 1992 and decided it was time tt learn how to cook grits and col-lard greens, learning from Edna Lewis. Louis Osteen in Charleston taught me how to give Southern cooking a French flair.

But I was burned out after 3'2 years. A friend had what he said was the and gave me a great interview, and I had to commit to a year. Everything I possessed fit into my Ford Escort. After two months, I realized that not only did I not know anything, but the chef didn't either. This kinda scared me.

So I did my year and figured I needed to learn how to cook. Coohill got me to work with Jean-Michel Dumas fin New Hope, He really taught me the basics, especially sauces." McEachern also worked with Ed Brown at Marie Michelle, Pascal Oudin at La Nicoise and Jeff Buben at Occi- redecorate your home with I I America's Favorite Comfort Shoes Cromer Apprecafo; VT Today through rR March 6 Lower Than Usual Prices On Entire Selection of SAS Shoes, Sandals and Handbags finance charges, no billing or payments until September 1999 on Custom orders over $500 When you use your Seon Card. Sole ends Morch 13, 199V. See ZERO finance charge details below. Plus save 30-50 on hundreds of designer fabrics Professional installation Free home decorating idea book Free in-home consultation Call toll-free anytime (24 hours) 1-8004CUSTOM 1-800-428-7866 8 i Free Time' Time Out" for men for women S3 v.

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